WINSTER’S BROWN HORSE INN IS A TRUE THOROUGHBRED!

Only ten minutes away from the hustle and bustle of a very busy Bowness, lies the Brown Horse Inn, set in the idyllic natural beauty of the Winster Valley. We found all that you would expect from a traditional country inn and much, much more.
The inn boasts an ultra modern new extension which is seamlessly and sympathetically blended with the original hostelry. The result is a triumph and well worth a visit. The brochure states that “The Brown Horse Inn at Winster combines old world charm with sophistication and quality customer service”. It certain does what it says on the tin.
We were greeted by friendly and helpful staff who showed us to a brand new bedroom which overlooked the valley. The additional four bedrooms allows the Brown Horse Inn to cater for a whole spectrum of guests from those who prefer traditional beamed ceilings the chic modern style of the room we occupied. Considerable care and attention to detail has been lavished on the interiors and exteriors of the bedrooms, each room having a covered sun terrace and patio set. Even although the Inn is bustling and busy we heard absolutely no noise and slept well in the very comfortable double bed.
So far, so good but we were unprepared for the experience of dining at the Brown Horse. Tempted by the alluring aromas we chose to dine early. We were escorted to our table in the charming, well spaced dining room and perused the menu and the ‘specials’ board. The Inn prides itself on its locally sourced produce, how locally will be revealed later.
From the wide ranging and imaginative list of starters I chose Home cured ham hock terrine, piccalilli, garden leaves and flat bread. The ham was extremely tasty and not over-salted and was superbly complemented by the home made piccalilli and flat breads. My vegetarian wife chose the Tomato and Mozzarella salad with chick pea fritters, garlic and balsamic dressing. This dish was triumph and it was refreshing to have such a creative option on a traditional menu.
The Brown Horse was now straying into dangerous territory as our expectations were seriously heightened. The Vegetarian Main choice was Twice Baked Courgette and Black Sticks Blue Cheese Soufflé on sweet potato, broad beans and wild mushrooms. Each component of this dish complimented the whole, providing a gastronomic experience to be remembered. Only the finest and freshest ingredients could produce such a delightful dish. I chose the Sirloin Steak served with onion rings, confit tomato and hand cut chips cooked in dripping (a bonus as the veggie couldn’t pinch any!) with pepper cream sauce. This dish was a canter to food heaven. The vegetables were superb, the sauce amazing but the steak sublime. The steak knife I was offered was superfluous as the meat melt in the mouth and gorgeous. The best I have ever tasted.
The question on both our minds was, would the Brown Horse fall at the final hurdle? The Brown Horse sprouted wings and became Pegasus producing desserts of Olympian standards. I chose the Poached Peach in Amaretto with hazelnut and mint. My wife (the chocoholic) chose the Cherry and Chocolate Pot with chocolate sauce. Both dishes were gold medal winners, artistically presented and brilliantly executed. My wife continues to mutter on about the kirsch soaked cherries that were hidden inside the chocolate pot. A perfect end to a wonderful meal.
The atmosphere in the dinning room was relaxed and warm. The attentive, friendly staff ensured we toddled off happily to bed after a lavish brandy-coffee nightcap.
After an excellent night’s sleep we were treated to a Brown Horse breakfast (no, not bran!). It came as no surprise that breakfast was marvellous. There was a wide selection of buffet items and an excellent full English option.
After an unhurried breakfast, Steve, the owner was kind enough to reveal more of the Brown Horse’s pedigree.
A wonderfully well stocked farm shop is at the rear of Inn. The vast majority of the produce on sale in the shop is produced either by the estate itself or by local suppliers. Some of the vegetables and herbs are grown 50 yards from the shop where we saw broad beans being picked and on sale less than 20 minutes later.
A short trip down the road revealed another gem, 11 acres of what Steve described as “free range farming”, no pesticides and animal welfare of the highest order. We saw new poly tunnels crammed with a wide variety of fruit and vegetables, ensuring fresh seasonable produce for the Inn and the shop. We were comforted to see farming with a heart – the animals we saw were all very relaxed and living in very natural conditions. The large sow with her 4 week old piglets had excellent accommodation and showed no anxiety at our intrusion which reflected her relaxed lifestyle. There were a number of duck ponds with enchanting Aylesbury ducks who enjoyed the freedom of the woodland and natural undergrowth. They shared this habitat with Guinea Fowl, Quails, Geese, Turkeys and Chickens. All these animals glowed with health and showed only curiosity at our presence. This is surely the way to produce high quality food, as enjoyed at the Inn, without cruelty and with a mind to keeping food miles to a minimum.
A two minute walk away from the Inn we saw the pastureland where the estates highland cows and sheep were grazing contentedly. These animals were also in prime condition.
Steve plans to develop a micro-brewery and some holiday cottages in the near future which will provide further employment in this idyllic spot.
All in all a gold medal winning performance from the Brown Horse.
Words: Alan Gurhy Images: K


