SHARM EL-’CHIC’ – THE OTHER SIDE OF EGYPT
FAMOUS FRENCH CAPTAIN JEAN-JACQUES COUSTEAU HAS WRITTEN ONCE: “THE RED SEA IS A PASSAGE OF WONDERS; THE HAPPIEST HOURS OF MY DIVING EXPERIENCE WERE SPENT HERE”.
AGENT2 ventures to Egypt to discover whether Cousteau was right and explores the other wonders that Sharm el-Sheikh has to offer, beyond its pristine beaches and priceless diving.
Indeed, these words would be echoed by anybody who has the chance to spend some time in this astonishing region of the globe. In fact, few places in the world offer divers the chance to discover the unspoiled beauty of the ocean bed as Egypt does.
Located on the east shore at the southernmost tip of the Sinai Peninsula, and with a consistent tropical climate and 60km of sandy beaches, Sharm el-Sheikh has become the leading tourist spot in Sinai and an ultra modern Mecca for divers.
Now developed into a luxury holiday complex, it has become treasured by divers and sun-lovers across the globe. Famous hotels that share its beautiful bays include Marriott, Hilton, Hyatt, Ritz Carlton and the Four Seasons but behind these high-rises, lie Sharm’s endearing secrets: that it still has some of the best diving spots in all the Red Sea.
A great way to start exploring the area is to dive to the amazing reefs of the National Park of Ras Muhammad. Created in 1983 to protect coral reefs and the fragile environment, this marine park boasts corals brighter than anywhere I have ever seen before.
In this ocean of cobalt blue and feeling utterly disconnected, it’s not hard to see why this is one of the world’s most famous dive sites.
For those who haven’t tried it, scuba diving is like visiting another planet. In the majestic Ras Mohammed National Park, the landscape of fluttering reef walls and pinnacles seemed as unfamiliar as the canyons of Mars. The fish are weird in both colour and shape; parrotfish with their beaklike lips, goatfish sporting forked beards, and unicornfish that spar and horn-joust like the mythic beast.
I could have spent hours swimming there, in silence, away from the noisy city. Even though I eventually climb back up to the yacht, I knew that my time spent in that underwater palace would remain cherished memories.
As well as excellent diving, Sharm is close enough to the South Sinai desert that you can enjoy the sumptuous dunes with no problem. Many local and international tour operators include daily excursions including camel rides and jeep safaris.
After enjoying everything about my snorkeling experience, I went to the dryness of the Sinai. Throughout our journey to the deep desert, I was fascinated by the tribes of nomads, called Bedouins, who seemed able to live in the arid inhospitality of the desert.
They have adapted themselves brilliantly over the years to desert life, even though I can imagine how prettier and more romantic the sight of them must have been a couple of generation ago – with no piles of rubbish, no 4-wheel drives and no TV.
One thing that has survived ‘the progress of the western world’ is the beautiful bond between Bedouins and their camels. It is still the Bedouin’s constant companion. He drinks its milk; he feasts on its flesh; he covers himself with its skin; he makes his tent of its hair. Its dung is used as fuel. It is his shelter in the cold winter nights and protector against sandstorms. It is the special gift of Allah: Ata’ Allah.
The camel has now predominantly been exchanged for the 4-wheel-drive, but they still play an important part. Trained racing and carrying tourists on camel treks, they assist the Bedouin in becoming part of Sinai’s growing sources of income.
Its camels aren’t the only tool that attracts tourists though. South Sinai’s landscape is phenomenal. A silhouette of silver mountains, they shadowed the beautifully rich colours that were unforgettably inspiring.
A series of bays with innumerable and extraordinary coral reefs, Egypt has made a goal of turning the Red Sea into the new Riviera.
And the signs of development are everywhere: half-built Moorish domes, fieldstone walls in progress and lonely, unopened hotels. Even the nightlife in this Muslim city is modern and developed, and in fact- quite liberated. In 2005, Little Buddha, a sushi bar, took the title of having the longest continuous bar in the Middle East. Even dance club franchise Pacha has one of its three African clubs in Sharm. These nightclubs and restaurants contribute greatly to the lifestyle led by Sharm el-Sheikh’s tourists each year.
Yet, the signs of development have also had other effects: high-rise hotels stain Sharm’s exquisite coast, and an onslaught of European tourists have turned this once traditional, ethnic port into a hub for tour operators, bars, and all-inclusive resorts.
But don’t be dismayed. Sharm has a stretch of silky sandy beaches you will struggle to find elsewhere and coral as bright as you can imagine that it still shouldn’t be missed. So when you book your ticket, just remember Cousteau’s words.
Sharm el-Sheikh should be remembered for one of the best coral reefs in the world. Don’t let the rest put you off.
TRAVEL INFORMATION
WHERE TO STAY
A few resorts offers luxury on a silver plate like does Hyatt Regency Sharm El Sheikh.
Located only 10 mins from the International Airport and less than an hour’s flight from Cairo, Hyatt Regency resort is embraced by the spectacular land and seascapes of mother nature. The unparalleled resort offers an extraordinary blend of international cuisine restaurants and entertainment including folkloric Egyptian dances and music.
All 471 spacious rooms and suites provide magnificent views of the Red Sea from its immense balconies.
SHARMELSHEIKH.REGENCY.HYATT.COM
WHAT TO DO
DIVING
There are over 20 renowned dive sites around Sinai – including the world-famous Ras Mohammad Marine Nature Reserve.
Cfun Divers are the guys to organize your snorkeling and diving trips with. The staff is fully licensed and insured. You will feel at ease with these professionals.
CAMEL RIDES, BEDOUIN DINNER AND STARGAZING
You can enjoy a 30 minute camel ride, before tasting the Bedoin’s delicious cuisine and trying Egypt’s shisha, a traditional water pipe.
SHARM-CLUB.COM/ACTIVITIES_SHARM_EL_SHEIKH/BEDOUIN_TOURS_SINAI.HTM
THE MONASTERY OF SAINT-CATHERINE
A formidable, fortified monastery, built in the 6thC under the Roman Empire on what was regarded as the place of Moses’ Burning Bush.
MOUNT SINAI (OR MOUNTAIN OF MOSES)
Sacred to Muslims, Jews and Christians, Mount Sinai overlooks the monastery of Saint Catherine at 2285m. You can expect some great views at sunset and sunrise.
HOW TO GET THERE
There are daily flights from the UK to Sharm El Sheikh. It takes 5h30 from Manchester and 5 hours from London.
Words and images Vincent Bernier Editor Natasha Al-Atassi
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