MADEIRA TRAVEL: HAVE YOUR CAKE AND EAT IT

WHEN THE SUBJECT OF PORTUGESE TRAVEL WAS BROACHED, THE FIRST THINGS THAT SPRANG TO MIND WERE OVERCROWDED ALGARVE BEACHES, PORTO WINE AND CRISTIANO RONALDO. NOT OVERJOYED BY THE PROSPECT OF SPENDING A HOLIDAY NEXT TO 18-30 YEAR-OLD PASTY BRITS AND COMING TO THE CONCLUSION THAT RONALDO PROBABLY WON’T BE PASSING ME IN THE STREET, I WAS STARTING TO BECOME VERY GRATEFUL FOR THE WINE. THANKFULLY THOUGH, THE PORTUGUESE OFFERING I WAS EMBARKING ON WAS TO THE SMALL ISLAND OF MADEIRA. DESPITE MY EXCITEMENT OF COPIOUS AMOUNTS OF MADEIRA CAKE BEING QUASHED WHEN I FOUND OUT IT DOESN’T ACTUALLY EXIST ON THE ISLAND, I MADE FINDINGS ABOUT THIS REMOTE ISLE AND WHAT ENCHANTED BEAUTIES IT HAS TO OFFER, THAT I HAD NEVER IMAGINED. SURPRISING MYSELF AND MY BRIEF KNOWLEDGE OF ITS FEW EXPORTS, I DISCOVERED THAT THERE WERE MANY REASONS TO VISIT MADEIRA, BEYOND AND ABOVE ITS NAME-SAKE CAKE.

Situated to the south of Portugal and resting directly west of Morocco, Madeira is a phenomenal discovery. Isolated, over 1000km from the Algarve, visiting Madeira brings the thrill and mystery of uncovering a remote and lonely island far from any cultural distinctions.

This little hotspot was founded by chance in 1419, when Portuguese travelers detoured after their ship wrecked. Since then, this once sleepy, Atlantic outpost has attracted its fair share of grey-haired holiday-makers thanks to its year-round warm and pleasant micro-climate and its countless golf courses.

But don’t let this put you off, the island has attracted tourists since the 19^th Century and now the words ‘cool’ and ‘hip’ can be banded around freely as in more recent years as the island has attempted to give its silver-haired image a makeover.

AGENT2 has set out to find what now attracts younger globetrotters like us to Madeira

Funchal, Madeira’s capital, is an ideal place to start. With the airport nearby, and a city bursting with things to do, it is a great location to ‘set up camp’.

The largest cosmopolitan city offers the visitor both a fantastic urban life and a view of the natural beauties of this small island. Cocooned in a wide valley, the city spreads itself over the gentle harbour slopes to the high mountain tops, reaching over 1200m to the cushioned area in between.

The best way to get a panoramic view of the populous city is by cable car, which will also allow you an excellent, birds-eye-view of Funchal Bay.

The 11 minute journey to the summit at Monte are well worth it. As well as a fantastic vista of Funchal’s lively city, you can also treat yourself to a view of 35,000 m² of flowerbeds and 2,000 exotic plants visible at the city’s Botanical Gardens (montepalace.com) For an exhilarating ride back down the hill, opt for traveling by a basketwork sledge. Breakneck speeds are achieved so beware; this method of transport is not suggested for the faint hearted. We can safely say that this option distances Funchal easily from the “O.A.P. massive” that the island had become synonymous with.

Funchal’s Farmer’s Market (pbase.com/alpiner/) is the perfect antidote to life-threatening outdoor activities. At the centre point of the town, the market is set in a huge space typifying the region’s Art-Deco-like, New State architecture (Estado Novo.)Vibrant and bustling fresh fish, vegetables and other local delicacies are poured over by locals and tourists alike.

Funchal is also Madeira’s focal point for bars and clubs. Sip cocktails by the pool of any of its newest, hip hotels. Head to the harbour for clubs and bars; seek out Vespas (myspace.com/vespasclub.com), the island’s largest club, for late nights and outdoor summer parties.  Chic new eateries are aplenty in the city if great food, conversation and people watching are your thing.

Madeira’s all-year-found temperate climate has produced a landscape that is carpeted in lush vegetation. To get a glimpse of the island’s many vineyards, sugar cane groves and sparkling green hills, take part in a trek. Indeed, walking is the perfect way to view Madeira’s splendid scenery – without breaking the bank. The Levada Walks are walking trails that allow you to trek alongside Madeira’s Levadas (mini-canals), that date back to the 15^th Century. You can opt for a guide or journey beside Madeira’s unique water-supply system alone. Although the Levadas were constructed primarily for agricultural use they are just as important for tourists and local people alike who want to enjoy outdoor adventure activities inaccessible by cars.

One of the most popular – and manageable – treks has to be the Levada do Rabacal. (madeira-levada-walks.com/blog/) Surrounded by a vibrant, sub-tropical forest of laurels, myrtle and other plants that retain their intense green colour all year-round, it’s not hard to guess why the aristocrats from the old continent loved the island enough to move here many moons ago.

Being an island, it goes without saying that Madeira is as much about the sea as it is about land. Madeira lies far into the Atlantic Ocean, 310 miles from Morocco and twice as far from mainland Portugal. Located along the migratory path of many different species of marine animal. Madeira offers the opportunity to spend a day whale and dolphin watching. This is a must for any traveler wishing to take in the truly unique aspects of Madeira’s geographical position.

As the sun beats down on the ocean, there is nothing more beautiful than the variety of dolphins you can spot (Common, Oceanic and Stipped). If you’re very fortunate, watch whales as they dart across the boat’s hull, and skim the waves with simultaneous speed and grace.

After exerting all of your energies, what better way to kick back than to relax with a light lunch and generous amount of that famous Madeira wine – well, it would be rude not to, wouldn’t it?

The beautiful 19^th Century hotel, Estalagen do Vale (estalagemdovale.com) is the perfect place to sample some of Madeira’s gastronomic delights. Having taken on many guises in its life – from school to hospital – Estalagen do Vale is a unique insight into Madeira’s architecture and history, as well as a brilliant place to work your way through Madeira’s vast collection of wines.

Drinking to excess aside, Madeira has long been famed for the curative qualities of its climate.  Yet another reason to enjoy Madeira’s ever-warm climate, as if you’d need one. For another welcome reason to leave the weight of the world behind you, visit the newly opened Spa de Quintinha, where rest, relaxation and reinvigoration are available in abundance (quintinhasaojoao.com) AGENT2 recommends the invigorating hydration treatment. Exfoliating the body with red fruits followed by a full body massage, this therapy should be on the top of any ‘R and R’ seekers wish list. The spa also offers a range of other services from anti-cellulite treatments to body-firming mud wraps that will ensure their newly acquired younger globetrotters will stay looking younger for longer.

Madeira has also become a hub for youthful activity with its growing popularity amongst surfers. Dubbed the Hawaii of Europe, Madeira’s wold-famous Jardim do Mar beach  (surfline.com/surf-report/jardim-do-mar-madeira_6953/) is only a 20 minute drive Ponta do Sol, on the southern coast. Free shuttles also run from the Estalagem do Ponte that brings you to the levada walks and Funchal Airport.

After my stay, I definitely approve Madeira’s effort to rejuvenate the island’s reputation. Madeira has become a delicious attraction for the younger crowd, offering everything from clear blue skies, warm air and piercing sunlight, to mouth-watering wine, delightful fish and jaw-dropping natural beauty. Together with its welcoming Moorish and Mediterranean atmosphere, this transformation has seemed to come effortlessly, for I can see no reason not to come back to Madeira, again and again and again.

Madeira definitely takes pride of place on my destination much-loved list. You might not find Ronaldo or even Madeira cake here on the island, but it is a place of magical discoveries sure to enchant and entice every single type of traveler, from young to old.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Madeira is located South of Portugal and West of Morocco and has an all-year-round warm climate.

Currency is the Euro (£1 = €1.14).

easyJet flies from London Stansted to Madeira from £30.99 one way (£54.98 return) including tax. To book visit www.easyJet.com or call 0905 821 0905

easyJet flies from Bristol to Madeira from £24.99 one way (£45.98 return) including tax. To book visit www.easyJet.com or call 0905 821 0905

easyJet flies from London Gatwick to Madeira from £33.99 one way (£57.98 return) including tax. To book visit www.easyJet.com or call 0905 821 0905

WHERE TO STAY

Nestled atop the highest cliff of the unspoiled village of Ponta do Sol, the Estalagem da Ponta do Sol is definitely worth a stay.

The fruit of the union between nature and clever design, the Estalagem do Ponta do Sol (pontadosol.com) is now member of the prestigious Design Hotels Club (designhotels.com). A renovated farm, the architects successfully achieved perfection in integrating modern concept into the breathtaking natural surroundings. The the simplicity of the decor and the innovative design pieces create a relaxing and cosy atmosphere will definitely please guests. Only 25 minutes from Funchal and 40 minutes from the airport, Ponta do Sol offers you the opportunity to explore a 500 year old traditional village as well as enjoy its beautiful surfing beaches. Prices start from €93 prpn and include breakfast.

For a complete and in-depth guide on your next Madeira visit madeira-web.com or quintas-madeira.com

Words and images Vincent Bernier

Edited Natasha Al-Atassi