CLASSIC COLOGNE, A SCENT OF LUXURY

ASKING THOSE WHO’VE BEEN TO COLOGNE WHAT THEY REMEMBER FROM IT WILL OFTEN BRING UP AN ASSORTMENT OF REPLIES, FOR IN THIS SMALL CITY BURSTING WITH STORIES, THERE REALLY IS AN AWFUL LOT TO SEE AND DO. AGENT2 DISCOVERS, IN BETWEEN CLIMBING GOTHIC CATHEDRALS AND SHOPPING IN THE NEW QUARTER, THAT COLOGNE ISN’T JUST YOUR AVERAGE GERMAN TOWN. RIDDLED WITH ANCIENT ARCHITECTURE, WARTIME RUINS AND 18^THC BUILDINGS, IT IS THE ONE OF THE FINEST CATALOGUES OF HISTORY GERMANY HAS TO OFFER.

Cologne, or Köln, as it is known in Germany, is nestled in West Germany, only an hour away from Brussels by train. One of the most popular tourist destinations in Germany, it is home to just one million inhabitants, making it a refreshing break from the hustle of larger European cities.

However, whether you arrive by train, plane or boat, the first thing that will strike you as you enter the city won’t be its quiet cobbled streets or its famous river Rhine. I guarantee when your first breath is stolen, it’ll be upon seeing its imposing and impressive Cathedral.

A huge black-stone building with a ashy grey steeple stretching high into the foggy sky, the Cathedral holds historical tales that have lasted for centuries.

Now a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site, six million visitors come every year to see Germany’s largest Cathedral, which, at 45 metres tall, overlooks the rest of the city. Taking over 600 years to build, its foundations were first laid down in 1248 but it wasn’t completed until 1880, when it became the tallest building in the world. Nine years later, it lost this title to the Eiffel Tower, at 300 metres tall.

The gothic architecture of the church is itself outstanding – black stone carved into a variety of biblical figures stand above the entrance door, its high arched ceiling offers an arresting presence and its colourful stain glass windows stretch nearly its entire height. Mosaics are scattered on the floor and original 13^thC features can be found throughout. The tombs that circle the perimeter of the cathedral, as well as the crypt that rests underneath it, lend themselves rather well to the quiet, eerie atmosphere.

However, the reason why Cologne’s Cathedral is so significant isn’t really to do with its design, nor its impressive longevity. Within this heavily Catholic city, lay some of the most precious remains of its biblical heritage, for the Cathedral has housed the golden shrine of the Three Magi (Three Wise Men) since 1164. Pilgrims flock to Cologne every year on 6 January when the shrine is opened, to see their remains.

The only building in Cologne not to be bombed during WW2, the Cathedral has huge significance to its survivors and its people.

Our guide, André Fischer told us: “It’s impossible to describe the connection Cologners have to this church. It is part of us. It is our identity.”

The Cathedral isn’t the oldest thing about Cologne though. And it only took a short walk to realise what sort of history this city holds. A short stroll from the Cathedral we ambled across what looked like some old building debris, surrounded by fence and scaffolding. What we had actually stumbled across were the authentic ruins of Cologne’s Roman rule.  One of the oldest cities in the world (dating as far back as 58BC), Cologne houses some of the best preserved Roman ruins outside of Rome. Built using these ancient foundations, beneath Cologne’s modern and medieval buildings lays an entire Roman city.

One of the best places to experience its Roman history is to visit the Roman-Germanic Museum (5 EUR for adults), which centres round a huge Dionysus mosaic, uncovered during the Second World War. The museum is home to huge ruins such as tombstones and small remnants that have been discovered throughout the years including coins, weapons, tools and the largest collection of Roman glassware in the world. All these remains have helped uncover the vast history of this West German city, and tell of its prominence in the Ancient World.

The Prätorium (2.50 EUR for adults) is another place not to miss if you’re keen on your Ancient History. Discovered in the World War Two rubble, the prätorium was once home to the city’s Governor and was one of the largest buildings in Cologne during Roman times. The building foundations have remained perfectly in tact aside from a deep gash through one its walls: a scar from a 4^thC earthquake. The walls, its underground heating system, and octagon rooms are all otherwise in perfect condition and give a brilliant insight into the life and history of this Roman province.

In the same visit, you can explore over 100 metres of Ancient canal sewage tunnels from 50AD, which are still in pristine condition.

One of the best ways to examine Cologne’s vast and varied history is to have a stroll through its Old Town (Altstadt). Though most of Cologne was destroyed during WW2, few buildings within this medieval quarter remained. Walk along its cobbled streets and through its sparse empty squares and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of this quiet part of the city. The narrow side streets are the best place to experience Cologne’s traditional beer holes and try its authentic cuisine. The Rhine promenade sprawling with colourful houses, picturesque plazas and lonesome benches add a special character to Cologne, giving a taste of what this beautiful city was like pre-1942.

Indeed, the story of the Second World War isn’t forgotten within this once-walled city. Its tight-knit community together with its rich heritage makes Cologners proud to be Cologners. But when the war broke out, their pride and indeed, their city was shattered. Whereas in 1939 there were 750,000 residents in Cologne, by 1945, there were only 42,000.

Since then though, Cologne has successfully moved on: uncovering magnificent ancient ruins, restoring medieval streets and constructing a modern city centre around its fragile foundations in the ‘Rheinauhafen’, the new quarter. Home to some of the most popular shopping areas in Europe, the places to visit are Hohe Straß for department stores and Breite Straße for boutique shops. In recent years, the Belgian Quarter has become a thriving area for vintage clothes and trendy accessories.

Despite its turbulent past, Cologne has managed to salvage some of its major ruins and reinvent itself, creating a city full of stories, memories and character, that’s a true pleasure to visit.

Walking through its promenades as the splendid Cathedral is lit up on a cold wintry night, there’s a buzz that runs through the city; a reminder that every step taken is like a walkway through history.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Cologne is one hour ahead of the UK (GMT) and the currency is the EUR where £1=1.15 EUR. Visit during the six-day holiday of Carnival (Feb 11 - 17) where the streets come alive with parades, events and shows, and Cologners dress in colourful costumes. Visit www.koelntourismus.com for more information.

HOW TO GET THERE

German Wings fly to Cologne/Bonn Airport from London Stansted and have recently launched a new route from Manchester airport, flying five times per week. Flights take 1h 15 minutes. Prices start from £13.99 and can be booked at www.germanwings.com or by calling +44 (0)906 294 1918.

WHERE TO STAY

Excelsior Hotel Ernst +49 (0)221 2701 / www.excelsior-hotel-ernst.de)

Just 200 metres away from the Cologne’s main station and 20 metres from the Cathederal, this 5* hotel has everything you could require. As well as its proximity to the old quarter, Excelsior also boasts excellent modern suites, gym, spa and plenty of places to wine and dine including gourmet restaurant Hanse Stube, Piano Bar and the Riesling Lounge where guests can enjoy wine tasting sessions of Germany’s own wine variety, the Riesling. Double rooms start from 270EUR prpn.

CHECK OUT OUR GREAT EXCELSIOR “CITY ESCAPE” READER OFFER HERE.

OTHER PLACES TO VISIT

FARINA Fragrance Museum Find out the interesting story behind the world’s oldest fragrance company, Eau de Cologne. Follow the narrative tour by a ‘Rokoko parfumeur’ telling the tale of its creation in 1709 and its popularity among huge historical figures including Napoleon.

Lindt Chocolate Factory (7.50 EUR) Learn the history of chocolate-making, the branding of Lindt and try some chocolate for yourself.

Carnival Museum Museum of Cologne’s infamous Carnival showcasing masks, costumes and past videos where you can learn all about the city’s much-loved celebration.

WHERE TO EAT

Früh A traditional micro-brewery hosting Cologne’s famous brew, Kölsch and serving some of Germany’s traditional cuisine. Try the Rheinischer Sauerbuten (marinated beef with dumplings and red cabbage) for 13.95 EUR.

Taku, Excelsior Hotel An Asian restaurant in the 5* hotel serving quality meals from Japan, Thailand and Vietnam.

Words Natasha Al-Atassi