BRITTANY BRINGS MUSIC TO OUR EARS

A SHORT WAY FROM THE BRITISH COAST LIES ONE OF FRANCE’S MOST INTERESTING REGIONS, DRAWING VISITORS WITH ITS WONDERFUL COASTLINE, ATTRACTIVE TOWNS AND GREAT FOOD. AGENT2 CROSSES THE CHANNEL TO DISCOVER THE CHARM OF BRITTANY, A UNIQUE REGION RICH IN HISTORY AND BEAUTY.

I didn’t know much about this part of France, but I soon found out there’s more to it than just Asterix the Gaul.

As I set foot in Rennes, the city didn’t first strike me as a place of cultural and social ferment that I had expected from its pride and resistance to power, much like Asterix’s adventures. Its quiet streets, timber-framed houses and slow pace convinced me that the renowned local passionate temperament was just a saying.

However, I soon reconsidered. After attending the music festival the city hosts every December, Les Transmusicales, I saw first-hand the passion and life this region has to offer.

Les Transmusicales is an annual showcase of incredible new musical trends and talents. With a beer in hand, I ventured inside the huge hangars of the Parc Expo.

For four days a year, Rennes becomes the European capital of music: artists from all over the globe come to town to perform in front of  30,000 strong crowd.

New trends in music are offered all night long for a marathon that explores many genres. I danced to the songs from Jamaican artist Terry Lynn, I enjoyed the dark and sometimes unsettling beats of Fever Ray, the amazingly talented BLK JKS and the mind-blowing electro-reggae of Major Lazer. After my second night at Les Trans, Rennes already showed much more character than I thought it ever could.

My ears still burning from the concerts, the following morning I set out to discover the city. A big part of the old town was devastated in a fire in 1720, but it’s still easy to imagine what Rennes must have looked like if its timber-framed houses were still there amongst its bright colours and tiny alleys.

But the beating heart of Rennes is in its squares. The elegant Place de la Republique is a perfect starting point to visit the city. Just make sure you don’t spend all of your time shopping: the famous storeGaleries Lafayettes is here, and the streets all around are full of boutiques.

Walking for a few minutes along streets lined with nice houses and funny restaurant signs, I found myself in front of the imposing neoclassical silhouette of the Cathédrale Saint Pierre. Nearby is Place des Lices, which hosts a lively and noisy market every Saturday, the second biggest in France. It is crammed with locals stocking up on oysters, mouth-watering cheese and freshly baked bread.

The busy Place Saint-Anne is dominated by the Palais du Parlament de Bretagne, which was seriously damanged by a fire in 1994, after a violent demonstration by local fishermen. In front of the Parlament there were many stalls selling delicious local food and I challenge you toresist the temptation of  crêpes avec chocolat.

Foodies won’t be disappointed: Rennes is dotted with charming restaurants offering ample opportunity to savour the local cuisine and take in the atmosphere of this peculiar city.

Less than one hour north of the city is the Emerald Coast. Its rugged and windy cliffs overlook gulfs with cobalt blue water, while the waves crash on rocks and lighthouses appear on the horizon. Clouds travel fast, and rainbows colour the sky.

A visit to the village is a must; walking along the harbour you can see the evanescent silhouette of Mont St-Michel. When the sun is not shining, everything seems to romantically seep into black and white.

The real gem of the coastal area is Saint Malo, an elegant walled city.

Its past is one of pirates, sailors and privateers, and walking on the ramparts around the town centre, the wind blowing fiercely, I contemplated the forts and rocks dotting the sea all around. The sun was setting, making the buildings shine like gold.

As I recall my time there, I understand that the warm and welcoming people, jaw-dropping panoramas and rich heritage of Brittany are not only enough to make me want to come back, but also to realize why Asterix was so determined to keep Rome’s hands off it.

WHERE TO STAY

Located a few steps away from Rennes’s train station, Hotel Astrid is a great place to stay. For EUR 55 prpn, it’s only a few minutes away from the city centre. Rooms are simple, quiet and clean. The hall and the breakfast room are very well-decorated, and having a warm baguette with jam in a stylish room is the perfect way to start your day.

WHAT TO DO

VISIT THE LITTLE OYSTER MARKET IN CANCALE

For breath-taking views of Mont Saint-Michel and to snap a picture of a site of oyster harvesting, walk to this tiny market at the end of Cancale’s seafront.

THE MEDIEVAL TOWN OF DINAN

Discover the ancient charm of this little village. Its port, on the river, has great views on the woods and hills around, an old stone bridge and a Roman aqueduct.

HAVE A COFFEE IN SAINT MALO

Le Café du coin d’en bas de la rue du bout de la ville d’en face du port Le Java, 3 Rue Saint Barbe, is an unusual and eccentric place, where stools are swings, the toilet is hidden in a wooden booth and thousands of porcelain dolls, puppets, pictures and stuffed animals make customers’ heads spin. You’ll barely know what you are drinking, too busy looking around. Which is a pity, because the coffee is actually really good.

HOW TO GET THERE

Ryanair flies from London Stansted to Dinard in one hour. Prices vary but good offers can be found at ryanair.com.

Flybe flies to Rennes directly from Southampton, and from Manchester, Edinburgh, Exeter, Belfast and Newcastle connecting in Southampton.

For more information visit brittanytourism.com

Words and images Roberto Priolo

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