IRELAND THAT WILL POP YOUR CORK
CORK OVER DUBLIN? THAT IS WHAT THE LOCALS GLADLY RECKON AND WHAT MANY GLOBETROTTERS THINK AS WELL. AGENT2 WAS SENT TO FIND OUT WHETHER CORK REALLY STOOD A CHANCE AGAINST IRELAND’S OLD TIME FAVORITE.
Cork has much to offer: great and innovative restaurants, a pedestrianised town centre surrounded by lovely waterways and is conveniently located near the splendid western coast. The River Lee streams around the core of the city – an island loaded with grand Georgian parades, narrow 17thCalleys and modern masterpieces such as the opera house (corkoperahouse.ie)
Cork or Corcaigh in Gaelic, meaning ‘swamping land’ has known a real financial and cultural boom. Made Cultural Capital of Europe in 2005, the city doesn’t need to envy Dublin anymore when it comes to culture, entertainment and of course, Ireland’s legendary misty pubs.
Originally built around a monastery founded in the 7thC, Cork has had a rich and vibrant history, surviving both the Vikings and the English. During the 18thC, this historical city became ravaged by the Great Famine, losing a great deal of its population, who died or immigrated to America.
Strongly attached to its Irish identity, it has also had a big part to play in Ireland’s independence from 1919 to 1922. Having connections with the IRA led to a number of bombings in the city and on December 11 1920, the centre was totally burned out.
However, Cork has recently seen a huge comeback with the installation of great American companies in the area. Its economic vitality and peace is now visible and the pride of Cork city is back for good…
THINGS TO SEE
… So much so that it is even host to one of Europe’s biggest and most popular jazz festivals. Every October since 1978, The Guinness Cork Jazz Festival is held in Cork. In 2009, the festival exhibited over 1000 musicians from 29 countries, playing in over 60 venues to a hungry crowd or 50,000. This years festival saw international jazz songstress, Imelda May headlining and performing to a sold-out crowd (guinnessjazzfestival.com).
Imelda May performing to the sold-out crowd at The Savoy
The pretty and picturesque streets of the Shandon neighbourhood on the top of the hill dominating the city, is the best place for long meandering walks with breathtaking views. The neighbourhood surrounds the protestant church of St Ann, whose tower is one of the city’s symbols, famous for its clock that never gives the same time and got the nickname ‘Four Face Liar’ (shandonbells.org).
The city centre streets that cover part of the long island on the Lee River are animated with many businesses and pubs. St Patrick’s Street, the main commercial strip in the city, brings this quiet town to life, finishing on the bank of Lee River, facing Saint Patrick’s Bridge.
Stop to explore Saint Fin Barre Cathedral, the most curious building designed by William Burges in 1863 – the architect behind Cardiff Castle (cathedral.cork.anglican.org).
For a swig of Ireland’s famous liquid, head to the Beamish Brewery. Located in the heart of the city and founded in 1792, it is one of the oldest breweries in Ireland and a superior cousin to Guinness and Murphy’s. Book ahead of your visit (Beamish.ie).
For those interested in knowing more about Cork’s tumultuous and fraught history, visit the Cork Museum. Situated on the site of the former Beamish brewer’s house, it supplies hungry visitors with history about the city throughout the ages.
OUTSIDE CORK CITY
BALLYCOTTON
With its wild Atlantic escarpments giving the small fishing village a variety of settings and climate, Ballycotton has every characteristic an Irish village would have in my imagination; salty air, breathtaking views of the Ireland’s beautiful coast, and a rocky, steep island in the horizon crowned by an old lighthouse.
Ballycotton is one of Europe’s most notorious bird-watching sites – in fact, the region is host to 300 different species including a diversity of Sandpipers, Tree Pipits and Dowitchers. You have to do the famous cliff walk to Ballytrasna and rejuvenate your soul with this alluring area, a complete contrast with (ballycotton.com).
COBH
Over 6 million Irish left Ireland for the United States and Canada from 1848 to 1950 when the country fell into problematic times –famines and depressions. From these 6 million migrants, over 2.5 million departed from Cobh, making it the most important port of emigration. You need to visit Cobh Heritage Centre where you can get full coverage of the Irish Exodus as well as stories of liners that famously stopped or sank near Cobh, including the Titanic and Lisutania (cobhheritage.com)
WHERE TO STAY
Newly established resort in the Cork County, the Castlemartyr Resort is a five star hotel renowned for its charming hospitality and sets new world standards on luxury accommodation. The hotel complex is located about a 10 minute drive away from Ballycotton and 20 minutes east of Cork City and Cork Airport. The resort resides on a 220 hectare estate that includes a 17thC manor and the beautiful and inspiring remains of a castle built 800 years ago under Richard Earl de Clare, aka Strongbow. These premises are witness of the extremely rich Irish cultural heritage and its103 deluxe guest rooms are magnificently restored to provide a unique experience of unspoiled sumptuousness.
The resort offers a range of services including the excellent Knight’s Bar, gourmet cuisine at The Bell Tower restaurant, 16 000 sq ft Spa, indoor and ozone-treated pool, saunas and a golf course designed by Ron Kirby. The hotel pampers to every visitor and offers brilliant outdoor activities such as clay pigeon shooting, archery, crochet, a stroll through the woodland trails or boating.
Castlemartyr Resort offers luxurious accommodation from £175 per room including a full Irish breakfast. For bookings call 00 353 214 219000 or visit www.castlemartyrresort.ie.
HOW TO GET THERE
Regular flights are available to Cork International Airport form London and Manchester with Aerlingus (aerlingus.com).
The best way to see Cork and its beautiful surrounding countryside is by hiring a car. Hertz offer some good deals (hertzflydrive.com).
It’s the spark and warmth of Cork County, a remnant of the region’s enduring rebellious history that captivated me and probably will bewitch you too with its bare but prodigious beauty.
For further information about holidays in Ireland visit www.discoverireland.com.
Words Vincent Bernier – vincent@agent2magazine.com
