NEW DELHI, THE CAPITAL OF INDIA, EXHILARATES IN PASSION, CULTURE AND LOVE. A COUNTRY BURSTING WITH FLAVOURS AMONGST THE FOOD, PEOPLE AND THE HISTORIC LANDMARKS THAT I CAME ACROSS, UPON MY TRAVELS TO THIS BEAUTIFUL CITY.

When I was invited to the APEDA Basmati for the World food conference in New Delhi, India, I was so overly excited, India is such a beautiful country, from the climate to the people to the aromas of the spices, I certainly do adore Mother India.

After departing from London, I landed at 5am on the Monday at Indira Gandhi International Airport, New Delhi. Outside  the weather was very foggy. We left in the fog and arrived in the fog, it almost felt as though I went round in the air and ended back at Heathrow. The journey in total with the delay was 9hours.

The journey to hotel from the airport was about 20 minutes, I was staying at The Grand Hotel, a newly refurbished hotel for when the Commonwealth Games took place in 2010. As I arrived to the hotel and descended the bus, had to go through the metal detectors, security in India is very high due to the 2009 bombings. The white reception lobby was of a large size, overlooking the gardens. On arrival at check in, breakfast was served at the Crystal Lounge on the lower ground floor. The view was amazing with the gardens in front, massive palm, beautiful flower trees lined together. There was an array of different cuisines for breakfast, the waitress took me around and showed me the indian, chinese, english and continental. I was so lost for choice but I played it safe as I was very sleepy. Juice was served in small little glass bottles, which was so handy and a glassful.

The room was big and airy, the bathroom was the size of my bedroom at home, decked out in black tiles, an oval mirror with the toiletries at the far end, a tub, walk in shower and a sink. Sliding doors for the toilet and wardrobe. Also there were two entrances to the bathroom, one was from the corridor as soon as you enter from the main door, and the other was the sliding door beside the bed. The sliding door was covered with a full mirror. The room definitely wasn’t short of any mirrors, definitely handy for any woman. The bed was very comfortable after a 9 hour flight.

Monday afternoon was all about sight seeing, boarded the bus at 4pm, the hotel was situated near a massive modern contemporary shopping mall where you’d find the likes of Zara, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and etc. Driving around Delhi was nice, the constant horning, overtaking, but still abiding by the law of using traffic lights and the one way system. When you visit India, you are suddenly hit by the constant chaos, the population of the people, the cars and motorbikes, and the occasional quiff of smell in the air, also the cows, buffalos, dogs and goats roaming the streets. New Delhi is very modernised with the Metro system in place, thousands of people use it everyday, the most busiest is at 6pm, nobody wants to be on a train and get squashed like an ant at that time. Drove past The India Gate – which resembles the ‘Arc De Triomphe‘ in Paris. India Gate commemorates the 70,000 soldiers who lost their lives fighting for the British Army during World War I. The memorial bears the names of more than 13,516 British and Indian soldiers killed in the Northwestern Frontier in the Afghan war of 1919.

Next to past was the Red Fort – situated in Old Delhi, it is the focal point of modern India and attracts a major crowd on each Independence Day. It was a real shame the bus didn’t stop at these major hot spots. History is what makes India so special.

Along the drive we went past the Indian Crown Courts, Parliament House, Gandhi Museum and the Indian Wall Street. Stopping at Jama Masjid the great and largest mosque in Old Delhi, with a courtyard capable of holding 25,000 devotees. The highly decorative mosque has three great gates, four towers, and two 40m high minarets constructed of stripes, red sandstone and white marble. I had to cover up fully, so robes were provided to me prior entering, dress like a local without feeling like an outsider.

After visiting the Jama Masjid, riding on the bicycle tuk tuks was quite an experience, the strength of one small man pulling two ladies isn’t an easy job. We went round the block of Chandni Chowk seeing the sights of the food markets, street stalls, jewellery shops and the hanging cables. The road was very uneven, had pot holes everywhere, I think I lost quite a few brain cells with the constant bashing into the side rails. A must if you are ever in India!

Dinner was at Park Balluchi, a lovely little restaurant, as there was a big crowd of us, they gave us the conservatory seating area. It was a mild chilly evening, a comparison from the afternoon heat. Park Balluchi is a flagship fine dining restaurant with beautiful natural surroundings with lush greenery all around the place. The cuisine was Hyderabadi, Awadhi and Punjabi. A selection of white and red wine was on constant rotation, never short of a breath as was the water. One by one a waiter came and served me food, one piece at a time, the accompaniments were placed on the table first of chutneys and poppadams. First came the baby chicken, juicy, tender and fell off the bone easily, followed by that was paneer archari tikka – soft cheese cooked in a big open tandoor. Flame grilled banarsi seekh kebabs, the fire still burning from the skewer which was in the chefs hand was awesome. So lovely, could definitely taste the chalky charcoal and the tenderised meat. The rest of the meal was fabulous, it was every foodies dream, the rich curry flavours exploded in my mouth, the homemade naan accompanied with the rice and daals. The salads, chutneys and the dessert was superb and the service was tremendous.

The APEDA (Agricultural and Processed Food Products Export development Authority) ‘Basmati for the World 2011′ food conference took place in the conference hall of the hotel. A spacious setting for very few people. A lesson in the finest Indian Basmati Rice. It was a rather dramatic event, the Minister of Commerce and Industry Anand Sharma lit the diva and all of a sudden the Darude house anthem came on, consisting of a lot of bass and thumping.

A life lesson in Basmati: ‘Bas’ means ‘Aroma’, ‘Mati’ means ‘Full of’. Around the world there are 10,000 varieties of rice, and yet Basmati does stand out as the most gourmet of them. It offers an amazing sweet fragrance, an unmistakeable yet delicate taste, almost nutty. It is also quite easy to differentiate, a number of rice’s are sticky, but this isn’t. Each grain is perfectly separated from the other. I heard it was once used in the household of the ‘Raja’s and Rani’s’ of India, now its just as special as its used in every household, ‘King in the Indian Rice Basket’.

Basmati is a versatile long grain of rice, can be used in almost anything,  I saw and tasted many dishes made by the international chefs at the Chefs Conclave, such as Puff Basmati Rice with Star Anise Custard by Matt Edmonds. It was very delicious, the rice without the custard had like a sweet, coconut taste, once the custard was poured on top, the star anise flavour bursted out, it reminded me of liquorice in a bowl of rice. Perfect for a dessert or a snack even. Basmati Rice Risotto by David Charles Fenton was intricate, delicate in taste and the long grain of rice tasted heavenly. Once you have experienced its fragrance or taste, it is one engrained in your memory and you can recognise its aroma as soon as you are in its vicinity.

The Basmati Coffee Table Book was launched during the ceremony, edited by Shilpi Gupta – Head Chef at The Grand. The book gives an outline of the rice and many recipes such as Thai Basil Fried Rice by Shilpi Gupta, French Rice Ball Fritters by Lionel Levy, Candid Prunes in Red Wine Stuffed With Vanilla Rice Pudding, Italian Style Basmati Risotto in Pizza Calzone by Alfonso Lomanco, and many more to get your taste buds tantalising. The book is a great idea for someone who needs inspiration, recipes from India, Europe, Eurasia and America, you simply wouldn’t want to leave your kitchen.

Went to a tourist market called ‘Dilli Haat’ its a very pricey market, almost like a fake take on a real market. They have wooden carved tables and animals, pashmina shawls, bags, bangles and shoes. Every other stall is selling the same thing but for a higher price. Even if you try to bargain they still won’t shift, so really its much easier to buy from a fixed price shop than it is from Dilli Haat. There wasn’t really much to see, I was rather disappointed as the trip didn’t consist of anything original.

The Taj Mahal was definitely one of the best highlights of the trip. It took 5 hours to get there from the hotel leaving at 7:30am, the tour guide Poonam was really good at explaining the significance and why it was build. Along the journey I saw snake charmers, performing monkeys and vast land of green fields. The constant honking and overtaking is what makes India so lively. Upon reaching Agra, the temperatures were exhilarating hot reached about 28 degrees. Agra is a city on the banks of the River Yamuna in the northern state of Uttar Pradesh.

Taj Mahal is one of the most famous buildings in the world, the mausoleum of Shah Jahan’s favourite wife Mumtaz Mahal. It is one of the seven wonders of the world, and one of three World Heritage Sites in Agra.

Completed in 1653, the Taj Mahal was built by the Mughal Shah Jahan as a resting place for his beloved wife. Finished in white marble, this perfectly symmetrical monument took 22 years of labour and 20,000 worker, masons and jewellers to build and is set amidst the landscaped gardens. Built by the Persian architect Ustad Isa, the Taj Mahal stands majestically on the banks of the River Yamuna, the synonymous of love and romance.

My thought whilst watching the Taj is the immeasurable beauty, glistening in the sun, the exquisite ornamentation and its picturesque location. From afar it looks so tiny but up close its a postcard brought to life. Everything I have ever imagined!

Words and images Priya Kerai

CANNES THE SOUTH OF FRANCES MOST CELEBRATED PLAYGROUND CAN BE REPRESENTED IN ONE WORD: INDULGENCE. ONCE THE SUMMER SUN STARTS TO HEAT ITS MEDITERRANEAN BEACHES, MEGA-YACHTS PACK INTO THE HARBOR, LUXURY ITALIAN CARS PROWL LA CROISETTE – THE CITY’S CLOSEST STREET TO THE BEACH. RICH INDUSTRIALISTS DISPENSE TENS OF THOUSANDS OF POUNDS ON BUBBLY IN A-LIST NIGHTCLUBS AND EVEN MORE IN DESIGNER BOUTIQUES THAT ARE IN ABUNDANCE AROUND THE TOWN CENTRE. RECENT YEARS HAVE SEEN NEW TYPES OF PAMPERING EXPLODE — NOT ALL OF THEM RESERVED FOR THE SEVEN-FIGURE SET — THANKS TO NEW HOTELS, PARTY SPOTS AND RESTAURANTS.

Whatever your income bracket, there’s a place to play in.

In May, Actors and film directors come here for the glory via flashes, on the red. If La Croisette, designer boutiques and its Palais des Festivals have given Cannes the international glory. The city, if you scratch the hollywoodian relatively new polish, hasn’t forgotten its humble past and its warm traditions. You need to visit the region when the 4500 journalists, 300 television networks, 200 press agents and 150 radio stations are away, before or after the festival and gets its real French character. In Cannes, the center of tourist activity is in fact the mythical boulevard de la Croisette that extends towards the East End from the new Palais des Festivals along the Rade de Cannes, with its fine beach. Luxury boutiques and pretty buildings dating from the Belle Époque period dominate that boulevard.

Le Suquet area

Climb up and around through the narrow cobbled streets, towards the hill, topped by a medieval castle (now Musée de la Castre). That 15-20 minute effort will be rewarded by the astonishing views of the famous city’s west end, the port, the Croisette and Palais des Festivals and even the mysterious Lérins islands.

WHAT TO SEE

Musée de la Castre and Sainte-Anne Chapel

The museum houses a remarkable variety of antiques –collected by the Baron Lycklama who left them to the city in 1877. You can discover the superb selection of antique music instruments from around the world and some great landscapes depicting 19^th century Riviera before its Americanization. After that visit, I suggest you climb up the 109 stairs that leads you to the tower’s top terrace where you will get the perfect and unforgettable views of the city.

Marche Forville

The famous market is at the bottom of Le Suquet, so that could be where you are heading next, after the breathtaking views from the top of the hill. The market was first open in 1870 (although it has been refurbished in the 1930’s, explaining its Art Deco feel) and is called “Le Ventre de Cannes” or “Cannes’s Belly” is open the mornings, up until the early afternoon. The glamour and the glitz from La Croisette is nowhere to be seen here, where a typically French showcase of tasty things, with no frill takes place. You will encounter la joie de vivre at its best and the produce that comes with it, without Prada and co. No Ferraris here but some darn good cheeses and tasty olives!

Lérins Islands

Saint-Honorat Island and Sainte-Marguerite Island offers a monastery where the monks sell their own wine with a worldwide’ reputation of quality. Saint-Cézaire in white and Saint-Sauveur in red are now on the best tables in France (40 to 50 Euros a bottle). To protect the monastery, a fortress was built in the medieval times and now houses the Musée de la Mer and Fort Royal. Originally built as a castle, turned into a citadel and finally a State Prison where the enigmatic Iron Mask , the supposedly twin brother of Louis XIV was jailed. Ferry excursions takes 15 min for Saint-Honorat Island and 30 min for Sainte-Marguerite Island and no motors are tolerated there, only pedestrians.

abbayedelerins.com

WHERE TO EAT

Fouquet’s restaurant

Try the upscale brasserie tradition with a Mediterranean touch.

La Petite Maison

Offers French and Japanese cuisine à la carte.

24 -  Suquet

Try the fine and creative food with a cosy atmosphere.

WHERE TO STAY

Majestic Barriere Hotel

A great French Riviera’s gem, in addition with the refined décors and the hi-tech equipment, this five stars hotel offers an excellent deluxe service and has a dream location on La Croisette. After its stupendous extension, the Majestic Barrière now offers 44 new apartments, two penthouses, which joins the 305 existing rooms and suites (that were revamping 2 years ago). This hotel is a member of  ‘The Leading Hotels of the World’.

Lucien Barrière and Christian Dior have a long-standing relationship and are both devoted to luxury and French elegance. Majestic Barrière values the grand couturier all the more given that every year during the Cannes Film Festival Christian Dior always books one of the best suites in the hotel. In the dining room paved with stone and Hungary parquet, the rotunda cleverly recalls the ceiling of the famous Dior boutique on Avenue Montaigne in Paris and the huge Louis 16th table is surrounded by the legendary grey and silver medallion chairs. The cushions on the sofa in the lounge bear the same historical folded pattern as the Dior emblem and are of the same shade of bright red (Rouge Eclatant) created by Christian Dior himself in 1947. The bedrooms are a tribute to the boutique rooms on Avenue Montaigne with the same shades of grey, Pullman armchairs, cane-work bed-heads and a perfect copy of the original Monsieur Dior’s desk.

majestic-barriere.com

MOUGINS

Escape to the country, only 15 minutes away from Cannes, in the town Picasso choose to call home for the last 15 years of his life. This superb medieval village is a gem set amongst the paradisiacal mountains, cypress, pines and olive trees. The village is surrounded by a lush forest covering nearly 430 hectares and was successful in preserving the quality of its environment intact. Because of its dream location, the tranquility or its links with the art and cultural world, many celebrities have chosen to establish themselves here in Mougins (Fernand Léger, Man Ray, Jacques Brel, Christian Dior, Jean Cocteau and Catherine Deneuve all have properties in the communauté)

WHAT TO DO

Visit the old town and fountains, St-Jacques-Le-Majeur church, St-Barthélemy Chapel, as well as the very worthwhile Photography Museum. You can stroll across the small narrow streets to discover the many galleries and art studios. International Festival of Gastronomy – Les Étoiles de Mougins – A key event in French and foreign gastronomy, the festival gathers the finest chefs each year in September.

lesetoilesdemougins.com

WHERE TO STAY

Royal Mougins Golf Resort

Outstanding geographical situation as well as its perfect integration into the natural setting, this recent 4 stars deluxe hotel is unique with its 29 suites with huge private terraces with stunning views of the enchanting surroundings. This is the paradise on earth.

royalmougins.fr

NICE

If Cannes has a cute fishermen village vibe, Nice has an incredible city energy, only few miles away.  Nice is cheerful and bustling, dynamic and passionate. I was absolutely taken by its beauty and made my mind on which city in Côte d’Azur was my favorite… by a mile!

Start your visit of Nice with Place Massena that was built in the 1840’s with pretty arcaded buildings painted in Pompeian red that reminded me how close Italy was from there. Three years ago, the Spanish artist Jaume Plensa installed his 7 statues –that looks like modern, slim and young buddhas- all facing the Place. That installation is titled ‘Conversation in Nice’ and represents the 7 continents. You will be pleasantly surprised to know that Nice has kept its dialect called the Nissard. This language is very much alive and because of the dynamism of cultural association, the dialect – part of the Occitan linguistic family – is being taught to the younger generation. Nissard’s vocabulary is essentially drawn from Latin, spoken by the Roman colonists who built the city of Cemenelum. All streets names and touristic signs are including the dialect. Walk towards the famous Promenade des Anglais. The seaside road is always crowded but never dirty, always kept immaculate and follows the harmonious curvy Baie des Anges. Originally, the footpath was no more that 6 feet wide and was widened by Englishman, Lewis Way with his own pocket money, in 1820 – the path was then nicknamed ‘Chemin des Anglais’. From La Promenade, go towards the hill, called Castle Hill, that is what’s left from the site of the first town founded by the Greeks, then the first medieval town. Only a fragment of wall was kept as well as few foundations but the unique views from the top terrace a enough to stop moaning about what’s left from the Greeks. When you go back down that hill, you will end up in the heart of the Old Nice. Old Nice contains about 600 shops. Many boutiques offer local specialities and typical gifts. Narrow streets and baroque churches will mesmerize your spirits and fill your eyes with unspoiled beauty and probably make you walk slower!  Stop at the very picturesque Flower Market at Cours Selaya and have a little snack by trying the Nicois speciality; the Socca. The flat cake made from chickpea flour and olive oil, baked on a huge cast iron pan, will filled your empty stomach and you will be delighted, ready to carry on your extended walk through the city. Here are few of the must-see sights:

THINGS TO SEE

Matisse Museum

A 17^th century villa houses the personal collection of the painter who lived in Nice from 1917 until his death, in 1954. It offers a great panorama on his career, covering all periods – including his very first painting made in 1890, the gouache cut-outs as well as hundreds of drawings and prints.

musée-matisse-nice.org

Museum of Archeology and Nice-Cemenelum

Cemenelum was declared capital of Alpes Maritimae, an ancient Roman Province, in 14 BC by the Emperor Augustus. The ruins that can be visited include the great amphitheatre that could seat about 5000, baths, some paved streets (3^rd century AD) and a Palaeo-Christian complex (5^th century AD). The visit of these ruins were definitely the highlight of my whole trip! The museum was open in 1989 and displays a great collection of ceramics, glass, jewellery, coins, sculptures and tools from the Bronze Age to the Middle Ages.

Musée-archéologique-nice.org

Cours Saleya Flower Market

Go early and smell the local soaps and colourful flowers. Every morning from 6, except Mondays.

Tête Carrée

Designed by the sculptor Sacha Sosno, the ‘Square Head’ is the key symbol of the city’s contemporary achitecture with its 30 metres high and 14 metres wide, this impressive monument is open to the public.

bmvr-nice.com

WHERE TO EAT

L’Aphrodite

Be prepared to discover the French version of Heston Blumenthal’s experimentations with the use of liquid nitrogen in the newly awarded Michelin red guide star David Faure’ cuisine. restaurant-aphrodite.com

L’Oliviera

Sample all different types of olive oils with regional cuisine. The friendly restaurateur will give you advice on how to flatter your dish with the perfect wine combination.

Le Patio

Chef Pascal Gorris’s use of local fresh produce works magically well and makes you believe in the superiority of French’s culinary talents.

hôtel-la-pérouse.com/en/bar-restaurant/

WHERE TO STAY

Boscolo Exedra Nice

This stylish, quirky and white hotel (inside and out) has everything to offer for the best stay in the city, including the location and trendiness. 10 min walk from the seafront and railway station.

boscolohotels.com

HOW TO GET AROUND

Vélo Bleu (Bicycle rental)

One thousand bicycles are provided for self-service rental in Nice. First 30 min of use is free but rental cannot exceed 24 hours.

vélobleu.org

Segway

Personal Transporter is the environmentally friendly way to be seeing the city without any effort. The Segway offers fun and a modern and unique experience.

bice.mobilboard.com

HOW TO GET THERE

Cheap flights to Nice from Liverpool John Lennon Airport and London Gatwick

easyjet.com

All the info you need on France and the Cote d’Azur:

franceguide.com / www.frenchriviera-tourism.com

Words and images Vincent Bernier

IMAGINE PARTYING NEXT TO DINOSAURS, SAMPLING THE FINEST CHAMPAGNE AND COCKTAILS, TASTING THE MOST EXQUISITE EXPERIMENTAL CANAPÉS, CHATTING TO THE MOST INFLUENTIAL PEOPLE ON EARTH, DANCING AS IF THERE WAS NO TOMORROW…

Expectations were high but Lord Stanley Fink and David Johnstone put together a truly exceptional event to celebrate the world wide launch of the Global Party, which is inspired by Phileas Fogg’s challenge to circumnavigate the world in 80 days.

80 models dressed in colourful evening gowns by Fine Fashion Awards “Designer of the Year”, Jasper Garvida, appeared in front of a huge hot air balloon, to welcome all the guests.

More than a party, it was a visually stunning extravaganza, an experience to completely blow your mind in every single way…

The event was held at the extraordinary National History Museum. As soon as I stepped into the beautiful Earth Gallery it felt like entering a magical world. The magnificent walk included a quick view to the Earth’s Treasury Room, where you could admire all the precious stones and jewellery on display and a performance by The Gleeks.

After Lord Fink and Johnstone’s speech, the party started in the Central Hall with music provided by Eddie & the Robbers, Bryan Ferry and Ava Leigh.

Celebrities such as singer Katie Melua, model Lily Cole, The Saturdays singer Mollie King (without her gorgeous boyfriend David Gandy…), TV presenter Hofit Golan, the members of pop band Blue, boxer Barry McGuigan, TV presenter Gaby Roslin… were in attendance. Chelsy Davy, Prince Harry’s ex-girlfriend, made her debut with her new boyfriend, property developer Taylor Williams.

But, apart from the celebs, movers & shakers from around the world gathered under one roof to celebrate all the finest things in life, network and also to raise money for a worthy cause as 65% of the ticket price (£2,000 for a pair of tickets) will go to 15 charities: ARK (Absolute Return for Kids), Duke of Edinburgh’s Award (International Award Association), IIE (Institute Of International Education), Blue Marine Foundation, Sentebale, Nelson Mandela Children’s Fund, Raisa Gorbachev Foundation, Pratham, 21st Century Leaders, Merlin, Tusk and Virgin Unite.

The actual Global Party will take place on the 15^th and 16^th of September. More than 80 parties in 47 countries in 24 hours! Each location has organised an unforgettable event that  without a doubt will satisfy the most refined and demanding guests.

In London the Global Party will be held on the 16^th of September at Boujis, the award-winning premium nightlife brand and private members club regularly attended by celebrities and VIPs from film, fashion, music, sport and royalty. The party will be hosted by Matt Hermer, with entertainment provided by DJ Zeb Wayne and guests will have the chance to taste Boujis’ signature drink ‘The Crackbaby’.

The question is now, where do you party after the Global Party? To be continued…

www.theglobalparty.com

Words Verónica Carpio Martín  Images Dan Harley

WHEN THE TUNISIAN REVOLUTION KICKED OFF JUST A FEW MONTHS AGO, NO ONE KNEW WHAT WAS GOING TO HAPPEN TO THIS BEAUTIFUL NORTH AFRICAN NATION. BUT SINCE PRESIDENT BEN ALI STEPPED DOWN FROM POWER, THE COUNTRY HAS BEEN TRYING TO GET BACK ON ITS FEET. AND NOW, TUNISIA IS RE-ESTABLISHING ITS CLAIM TO BEING THE BEAUTIFUL AND HISTORICAL COUNTRY IT ALWAYS WAS, AND HAS ALWAYS BEEN.

While Morocco has been the destination on everyone’s lips over the last few years, Tunisia was originally the North African nation to visit. Its long stretches of golden beaches and incredible vista of Atlas mountains pulled in tourists long before Marrakech became the ‘it’ place to be seen and the coastal resort of Agadir filled with British holidaymakers holding a fruit cocktail in their palms. In fact, its popularity was far superior to its neighbouring country in years gone by and it was probably in its prime when our parents were jaunting around the world, just as we do now.

But this isn’t about what Tunisia was. It isn’t even about what it is. It’s about what it is going to become. While there is a lot of sadness associated with the destruction caused by the revolution, there is even more hope and ambition. Over the next few years, this country will become increasingly liberated and free; and it will once again regain its stature in the tourist world.

And indeed it should. While many people journey as much as 24 hours for the promise of sunshine – and I myself hold my hands up to this – Tunisia is merely a three-hour flight away. What’s more, you don’t have to fight for space on the beach like you do if you visit other popular European countries blessed with the Mediterranean Sea, as the country’s long coastline means there’s plenty of sand to go around.

One of the best places to visit if you’re looking to catch some rays and relax on the beach is Hammamet. Quieter than other seaside resorts, this is in an excellent position if you want to visit other areas of the country as it is only a short journey away from the capital Tunis, alternative coastal villages and the Atlas Mountains.

This is one of the first things you’ll notice as you recline on your secluded beach. The panorama of the mountain range in the distance shows the powerful peaks protectively overlooking the sea, while you soak up the sun and take deep breaths of the clean coastal air.

But if you’re planning to do more than simply sit on a deckchair, then Hammamet – or the “Garden of Tunisia” – is a great place for you to get a good insight into this country. Our first port of call was the Medina in the Old Town and this is a site not to miss.

Overlooking the shore, the Medina is situated in an amber-coloured stone fort, with high and impenetrable walls that make it look bold and imposing to any unwanted visitors. Inside the fortress, it is now slightly more inviting to tourists and you’ll notice the blossoming fig trees and pretty plants in its courtyard, while you can get excellent views of the bay, lined with fishing boats, from the top.

There are a few market shops inside as well, where you’ll find rows of leather sandals piled on top of each other, neatly packed in next to decorated tagines and ornamental bowls.

But the best place to experience the Arabic souk-style stalls is in the Yasmine Medina, where you can walk through a maze of shops stocking shisha pipes, mint tea sets, mosaics, lanterns and leather poufs. If you’re like me, you won’t resist buying a couple of items to bring home with you or you’ll be coaxed into buying them by a sweet talking salesman.

The Yasmine Medina is also a great place to try some of Tunisia’s local cuisine and you can choose from the many cafes in the area to enjoy some pastries while sipping on refreshing and sugary mint tea, soaking up the sweet aromas of shisha smoke floating in the air. And you’re bound to need something to cool you down as temperatures reach an average of 35 degrees Celsius in July and August, which means Tunisia can give Greece and Spain a run for their money in the sunshine stakes.

And when the weather is good, you can take part in a number of boat trips or water sports to make the most of the sunshine. There are windsurfing, sailing and jet skiing opportunities during peak season while you can venture out on organised trips in catamarans if you’d rather soak up the sun on the sea.

If you fancy heading further afield, then Hammamet is a good place to take an adventure into the Sahara desert. Just a few hours away, this is one of the biggest reasons why people are attracted to Tunisia. Hotels organise two and three-day excursions into the golden desert, pictured famously in movies such as The English Patient and Star Wars. Indeed, there are likely to be a few Star Wars enthusiasts in Tunisia at any one time as you can take specific tours around the country to see where scenes were filmed.

During these daytrips, you’ll have the chance to take a look at some of Tunisia’s ancient history and El Jem is one of the most spectacular ruins to see. The amphitheatre remains are almost as impressive as those at Rome’s Coliseum and it has been around for nearly 2,000 years. In fact, Tunisia’s history is so incredibly rich and varied that you won’t tire learning about its Roman heritage and seeing remnants of its past.

But to understand how some of its ancient customs are still practised, a trip into the desert could be a good idea. As you take a camel trip past the salt lakes of Chott el Jerid – where the crystal sandy terrain creates uncanny mirages in the distance – you can see Bedouin trekking in the distance, walking towards the illusion of a refreshing pool of water that has confused many others in the past. These tribes have called the desert their home for generations and as they lead their livestock over the sand dunes, covering their faces to shield their eyes from the burning sun, they are not about to let go of their traditions and lifestyles just yet.

However, they have learnt to adapt to the desert and oases have turned into modern functioning towns, which offer much-needed amenities during a Sahara adventure.

But if there’s one place you need to visit to find the ‘real’ Tunisia then it’s Sidi Bou Said. Located just a short drive from Tunis, this is a perfect stop after a drop into the busy, hectic city. Instead of high-rise buildings and dusty streets, Sidi Bou Said is a beautiful village that dates back to the 12^th century.

It has been a popular place for many artists over the years, and it’s not hard to see why as its bold blue and crisp white buildings make this hillside location one of the most striking I’ve ever seen. Walking through the cobbled streets, taking a peek at the empty quiet alleyways that have a turquoise blue archway at the end, Sidi Bou Said reminds me of strolling through a Greek coastal town. But as this is Tunisia, you can expect to step into these little azure-coloured doors to find a huge selection of souvenirs to take home with you.

And, if you’re like me, you’ll find yourself with fruit bowls and hand-stitched bags before you know it, striking up bargains with the friendly salesmen in between taking artistic shots of this picturesque town (or at least trying to).

There are so many shades to Tunisia; it’s hard to sum it up with a picture of its golden deserts, its sand-coloured forts and its blue and white towns. But the best way to understand the North African nation, is simply to see it for yourself.

January’s revolution has changed the face of this country, but for the better. There are so many experiences to be had in Tunisia and so many things to see; now is the time to come back to this coastal nation and see everything it has to offer. It has once again opened its doors for you to visit again – so what are you waiting for?

HOW TO GET THERE

Tunisair offer weekly flights from Manchester to Monastir from just £170 return, including taxes. For more information or to book call 020 7734 7644 or go to www.tunisair.com.

WHERE TO STAY

Rooms at the 5* Hasdrubal Thalassa & Spa Hammamet start from £178 per night, based on two sharing on a bed and breakfast basis. For more information or to book go to www.hasdrubal-thalassa.com

OTHER PLACES TO VISIT

Friguia Animal Park & Delphinarium – Experience an African safari at the animal park or head to the dolphin pool, where you can watch the mammals jump through hoops or even have a chance to swim with them. A favourite with kids!

The Ribat of Monastir  ­- A 8^th century fort on the Mediterranean coastline in the city of Monastir.

MORE INFORMATION

For all your travel needs and for information on what’s happening in Tunisia go to www.cometotunisia.co.uk

Words Natasha Al-Atassi

NOT YET AS WELL-KNOWN AS GLASTONBURY OR READING, BUT GETTING MORE POPULAR EVERY YEAR, THE FESTIVAL BEAUREGARD OFFERS A GREAT OPPORTUNITY TO ENJOY A UNIQUE FEAST OF LIVE ACTS AND ALSO TO VISIT THE ROMANTIC NORMANDY REGION, TASTE THE EXQUISITE FRENCH CUISINE AND HAVE A GLASS OR TWO OF CALVADOS (APPLE BRANDY).

3 days, 2 stages, 1 castle… Festival Beauregard is a pop & rock affair where a total of 33 groups, from established bands to up-and-coming artists, get together to celebrate music, entertain and have a wild time.

The festival is near Caen, a vibrant and dynamic city that attracts visitors worldwide for its Romanesque architecture, numerous parks and gardens and attractive surrounding areas. The quickest way to get to Caen is by train on the Eurostar London to Paris and then two hours on the bus to Caen, but a more enjoyable way of travelling can be by ferry, from Portsmouth to Caen in around 7 hours.

Now, the last time I was on a ferry for such a long time I was 14. I took a ferry from Barcelona to Mallorca and for 8 dreadful hours I felt dizzy and seasick and I had to stay laying down on a sofa… But, to my delight, this time it was a very pleasant journey where I had time to sleep in my cabin, sunbathe, have lunch and relax. And not a sign of seasickness, total bliss!

After arriving to Caen, I head to the festival Beauregard where the band Pop The Fish is playing electronic songs mixed with an acoustic guitar. The atmosphere is vibrant but relaxed (probably because it’s early in the evening…) and everyone seems to be having a good time. There are two main stages and a castle at the entrance which make the location ooze French chic and rock & roll glamour. The next act is by the Male Performer of the Year, Gaetan Roussel, a talented singer and songwriter whose intense songs made the audience go crazy.

The next day I take part in a “treasure hunt” to discover the little secrets of the main districts of Caen’s historic centre. Despite the terrible bombings the city suffered on the 6^th of June  1944, Caen has managed to preserve its magnificent architectural heritage and culture.

One of its main historic sites is the Caen Castle, built by William the Conqueror in the 11^th century. This castle is the main symbol of Caen and one of the largest medieval enclosures in Europe. It’s currently being restored to enhance the site and develop cultural and museographical activities.

Along the back of the castle, there is a sculpture park which features fantastic (and kind of disturbing) animals created by the Chinese artist Yong Ying.

Caen is also well-known for its two abbeys: the Men’s Abbey and the Ladies’ Abbey. The Men’s Abbey, built in 1063, houses Romanesque and Gothic features and, in the heart of the church, you can contemplate the tomb of its founder. The Ladies’ Abbey is another great example of Norman Romanesque architecture and also includes the abbey church dedicated to the trinity and monastery buildings.

The best way to explore Caen is by walking through its narrow streets and old districts lined with lively shops, bars and restaurants. Classicism and modernity are a constant mix in this city where history can be found at every corner: half-timbered houses, private mansions and courtyards etc.

During the night, the quay, Quai Vendeuvre, is the place to be if you would like to enjoy a late night in a nightclub or in their charming cafes and pubs.

To enjoy pure French romanticism I head to Cabourg, a picturesque resort full of Belle Epoque villas and Anglo Norman mansions that will make you feel like stepping back to the France of the 1920s.

The first stop is at the restaurant Le Baligan where I enjoy a succulent plate of grilled sea bass, accompanied by a glass of white wine and a delicious crème brulee for dessert.

The Grand Hotel is Cabourg’s most emblematic building and where the famous writer Marcell Proust found the inspiration to write his masterpiece ‘In remembrance of the things past’. Nowadays, many French movies and series are shot inside its sophisticated interiors and it’s a very popular hotel amongst actors, musicians and la crème de la crème of French society.

Cabourg’s golden period was at the end of the 19^th century when sea bathing became fashionable. Its 3 kms of fine sandy beaches, spectacular promenade, elegant villas made of limestone and brick, refurbished casino and stylish boulevards make Cabourg the most elegant and cosmopolitan place in the Normandy region.

Cabourg is also renowned for its Film Festival which, since 1983, has attracted the biggest names in European and international cinema. This year, for its 25^th anniversary, the festival celebrated love, passion and romance.

After Cabourg, I go back to Caen to have dinner at the restaurant El Olivo, where I try for the first time tartare de boeuf. My first impression when I see this enormous dish of raw beef with a raw egg in the middle is frightening but once I try it, I realise it definitely tastes much better than it looks. French food is truly delightful and it’s difficult to get a wrong dish wherever you go.

The second night at the festival brought on the charismatic duo, Aaron, formed in 2004 by actor Simon Buret and musician Olivier Coursier, who played electro pop ballads mixed with rock influences, followed by the legendary Texan group Zz Top. Their iconic long beards, Stetson hats and cowboy boots were seen for the first time in Normandy and didn’t disappoint. Their electrifying performance, powerful voices and unique image captivated the audience, who embraced the rock and roll spirit and didn’t stop dancing.

The French love wandering through markets so I follow the French way of life browsing the local market in Caen, where you can find fresh vegetables and fruits, local specialties, Calvados, the finest cheese… The best day to visit the market is on Sunday morning.

Golf is becoming a very popular sport in France so I decide to pay a visit to the latest golf club opened in Caen three months ago: The Golf Compact de Louvigny, which offers a new generation in golf practice thanks to its eco-friendly synthetic greens. I have only played golf twice in my life and I am not a golf –lover but the short course (a 6-hole course including both par 3 and par 4 holes, along with a 28-bay range) provided by this club is an excellent introduction to learn the basics or to improve your swing if you already are an experienced player.

The third day at the festival offered the dazzling performances of EELS, who played nostalgic yet provocative tunes from pop to jazz and blues, and The Kooks, whose catchy songs, roaring guitars and variety of styles (from reggae to soul, funky rhythms, rock and acoustic ballads) were a total success among the public.

After a hearty dinner at the restaurant Le Boeuf Ferre, where I enjoy a 5-course feast of crab, Calvados sorbet, rabbit, camembert and chocolate, I sail back to Portsmouth but it feels like a piece of my heart is still in Normandy. J’adore La France as the French would say. I’ll be back.

INFORMATION

• The Festival Beauregard is a 3-day musical event just outside Caen, in Herouville-Saint-Clair (from 1^st to 3^rd of July 2011). This year a 3-day pass cost 90 Euros.  For more information visit: www.festivalbeauregard.com

• You can travel from Portsmouth to Caen by ferry from £89pp return.  Please visit: www.brittanyferries.com

• To obtain more information about Normandy contact:

Normandy Tourist Board

00 33 (0)2 32 33 79 00

info@normandie-tourisme.fr

www.normandy-tourism.org 

RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS AND ACCOMODATION

• Hotel Best Western La Mare o Poissons,   www.lamareopoissons.fr
• Restaurant Le Baligan in Cabourg,   www.lebaligan.fr
• Restaurant El Olivo in Caen
• Restaurant Le Triplex in Caen
• Restaurant Le Boeuf Ferre in Caen,   www.boeuferre.com

FANCY A TASTE OF THE BEST SEAFOOD, AWARD WINNING WINES, ISLAND-HOPPING, MOUNTAIN WALKING AND SIGHTSEEING WITHOUT THE CROWDS? CROATIA MIGHT NOT BE THE FIRST COUNTRY THAT COMES TO MIND BUT ALL OF THIS AND MUCH MORE CAN BE EXPERIENCED IN THIS FASCINATING COUNTRY…

The Kvarner region is now more accessible from England thanks to Croatia Airlines, which since April, is operating direct flights from London Heathrow to Rijeka, the third largest city in Croatia, which attracts over 100,000 international visitors during its spectacular carnival in February.

As I land in Rijeka airport, I realise how little I know about Croatia so I am curious to discover Zagreb and explore the islands around the Kvarner Riviera. My first stop is in Krk, the oldest and largest island in Croatia and only 30kms from the city of Rijeka. Krk has been called the “Golden Island” because of its mild Mediterranean climate, geographical position and diversity of nature and culture.

Before visiting Krk town, I head to Vrbnik, a small peaceful town situated 48 metres above the sea, which offers spectacular panoramic views from the top of the hill. Vrbnik is a true traditional Mediterranean town with clustered houses and narrow streets; in fact, the town has the narrowest street in the world, only 43 centimetres wide. Vrbnik is the best known Croatian castle-town and is one of the strongest preservers of the Glagolitic heritage and spirituality.

Vrbnik also produces the celebrated “Vrbnicka Zlahtina” wine which I had the pleasure of sampling where it’s produced at the Nada winery, owned by the Juranic family. Nada offers a tasting of three types of brandy: Kmovica brandy, made from distilling over-fermented grape; Travarica brandy, white grappa with herbs; and Smokovaca brandy, made by distillation of semi-dry, fermented figs. The restaurant features Mediterranean food, with seafood cocktail, octopus and scampi risotto being the most popular dishes.

Krk town is famed for its summer festival which runs from June to mid-August featuring pop and classical music concerts, folk festivities, fishermen’s nights, summer sporting events and exhibitions staged at various locations around town. Krk was an important settlement during the Roman Empire and you still can see its Roman ruins in the city walls. Krk town has a lively nightlife especially at the Volsonis bar in the centre of the town which is a must-see. This unique cocktail bar is set amid Roman excavations, with exposed stonework and a sacrificial altar.

The best way to go island-hopping in Croatia is by ferry so I take one from Valbiska to Merag to visit the island of Mali Losinj. Regarded as the “Island of Vitality”, Mali Losinj has had a health tourism tradition for over 125 years. Due to its pleasant Mediterranean climate, clean sea and air, vegetation and aromatic scents, this island is the perfect place to relax your body and soul.

In Veli Losinj, I visit the Blue World Institute of Marine Research and Conservation (BWI), which is the first educational and interpretational centre about the marine environment on the Adriatic coast. The centre promotes interest in marine environment and its conservation, provides general public awareness activities and supports the local community through initiatives for local sustainable development.

The Blue World Education programme develops extracurricular activities for children, school pupils and university students, and also provides mentoring and teaching in graduate and postgraduate studies.

Since 2000, the BWI has been managing the Adriatic Dolphin Project (ADP), which studies and investigates the bottlenose dolphin population that frequent the archipelago of Losinj and Cres Islands.

The BWI offers the chance to participate in a volunteering programme and even adopt a dolphin.

After my visit, I enjoy a delicious lunch at the restaurant Konoba Corrado, where tuna carpaccio, marinated shrimps and grilled fish are its main specialties.

From Mali Losinj, I take the ferry (Porozina to Brestova) to reach the glamorous Opatija. This elegant town truly deserves to be named “The Queen of the Adriatic”. Its breathtaking buildings, magnificent parks and gardens and the immaculate exteriors of the houses have attracted visitors for more than 150 years.

In the past, wealthy men built stunning houses for their wives and that’s how Opatija started developing. Its first and most iconic hotel, “Hotel Kvarner”, was built in 1884 and still hosts the most important ceremonies and events in Opatija inside its well known “Crystal Hall”, a sumptuous room with beautiful crystal chandeliers.

Opatija has been the winter resort for the upper classes since the 19^th century due to its mild climate. Within 50 kms of Opatija, you can ski on the mountain lakes in Gorski Kotar or swim in one of the dozens of islands scattered in the Kvarner, making it one of the few places in the Mediterranean where you can enjoy a mix of winter and summer holidays.

Opatija’s principle promenade, Lungomare, is 12 kms long, boasts numerous hotels, bars and restaurants, as well as, the Croatian version to the Hollywood Walk of Fame. It also connects five resorts on the Opatija Riviera: Volosko, Opatija, Icici, Ika and Lovran and is the perfect place to combine a stroll along the beach with a spot of people-watching.

Opatija is also considered a great wellness resort during the winter months with March being specifically dedicated to wellness. Besides, it’s one of the trendiest places in Croatia as major events, concerts and ceremonies are often celebrated at its famous Open Air Theatre.

For dinner, I went to the restaurant Mali Raj, which means “little paradise”, with its fabulous terrace, tasty traditional Croatian food and spectacular sea views all combining to create an almost heavenly experience.

From Opatija, my next stop is the island of Rab, which I reach by ferry (Jablanac-Misnjak).

Rab is one of the greenest and most picturesque islands in the Adriatic sea. Rab town is full of medieval buildings built under the Venetian rule during the 13^th century and also churches and monasteries, which represent not only religious tradition but also cultural, artistic and architectural achievement.

The waterfront offers striking panoramic views and has become a meeting point for the locals and tourists alike. Rab is structured around three straight streets that run parallel to the sea, named Lower Street, Upper Street and Middle Street.

Rab’s four bell towers are particularly striking and the main symbol of the island. The Old Town boasts numerous cobbled streets which are lined with beautiful palaces and Romanesque churches, such as the Cathedral of St. Mary, the largest church in town, built upon ancient Roman ruins.

Rab’s coastline offers a vast array of enchanting beaches: whether you prefer stony, sandy or even naturist beaches, Rab’s seaside has something for everyone.

The most typical products of the region are olive oil, lavender, honey and the rab cake, made with locally-produced almonds and Maraschino liqueur.

If you want to feel as if you are stepping back in time, you should visit Rab during the Medieval Games, organised, since 1995, by the Rab Crossbowmen’s Association. The crossbow was the weapon used by Rab men during the 11^th century to protect the town. These games are held several times during the summer: Victory Day (9^th of May), Croatia’s National Day (25^th June), St Christopher’s Day (27^th July) and the Day of the Assumption of Our Lady (15^th August).

The main event is during the Medieval Summer Festival, from 25^th to 27^th of July, where celebrations are held to honour the patron saint of the town and thousands of people dress up in Renaissance costumes.

Before heading to Zagreb, I stop in Fuzine to visit the famous Vrelo cave. Fuzine is a pretty little town situated 730 metres above the sea level, in the south-western part of Gorski Kotar, and is known for its preserved nature, mild climate and natural beauty. If you get lucky, you might have the chance to observe one the 500 wild bears living in this area, especially during spring.

Vrelo, which means “spring of water”, is Fuzine’s main attraction due to its unusual and rare forms of cave formations (speleothems), which are caused by frequent oscillations of underground watercourse levels over the last 35,000 to 45,000 years. Particularly striking are the column called “Bishop” and a stalagmite named “Mother of God”.

Fuzine is well-known for its gastronomic offerings. At the restaurant Bitoraj I tried some of their exquisite local dishes, such as game goulash, and tasted the region’s red wine, Plavac, and blueberry liqueur.

After Fuzine, I head to Zagreb, the capital and largest city of Croatia, with approximately 1 million habitants. Zagreb has always been the cultural, economic and political centre of Croatia but when it came to tourism, cities such as Dubrovnik or Split remained more popular. In recent years, however, Zagreb has became a tourist spot in its own right due to its Baroque architecture, charming markets, rich historical and cultural heritage and laid-back spirit.

Zagreb’s heart and main square is Ban Jelacic, the meeting point for Croatians and tourists, displays a variety of architectural styles, the famous statue of Ban Josip Jelacic (a general in the Austrian army and governor of Croatia from 1848-59) and the Mandusevac fountain, which provided drinking water until the end of the 19^th century.

One of Zagreb’s defining symbols is the stunning Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, situated in the upper town of the city. The cathedral dominates the Zagreb skyline with its slender 105-metre-high towers. The cathedral’s defensive walls are among the best-preserved Renaissance defences in Europe and were built in the 16^th century to defend from the Ottoman Turks.

St Catherine’s Church, known as “the Barbie Church” due to its pink walls and baroque style is the most beautiful in Zagreb and the most popular in which to get married.

Krvavi Most, the “Bloody Bridge”, is most notable for not being a bridge, but a street. In fact, it was originally a bridge before being torn down in 1899 during violent battles.

The best way to experience Zagreb is on foot, but if you are feeling romantic, you can take the funicular, the shortest one in the world used for public transport – from Ilica you will reach the Upper Town in 55 seconds!

Skalinska to Tkalciceva is a pedestrian street full of bars and restaurants and the favourite place to hang out for Croatians, with a relaxed vibe and the finest Croatian food, wines and beer.

For fashion lovers, the Croatian version of Oxford Street is Donji Grad, in the Lower Town, where you will find the latest international and Croatian brands and designer stores. This street is the perfect place to buy a tie, the must-have item and an authentic Croatian product, which the locals wear for good luck.

Zagreb also counts with more than 20 markets. The most visited and best known is Dolac, a daily indoor and outdoor market which offers the best products from all regions of Croatia at a reasonable price. Regarded as “the belly of Zagreb”, it’s a favourite amongst chefs and gourmets.

Zagreb enjoys a rich cultural life with museums such as Zagreb City Museum, Museum of Arts and Crafts, The Croatian Museum of Naive Art or The Museum of Contemporary Art. Having said that, I found The Museum of Broken Relationships especially interesting and amusing. This unique museum is a definite must-see if you are looking for something more quirky and unconventional.

After their break-up, a couple decided to make an exhibition with some of the objects and experiences they shared together and that’s how the museum developed initially. Since then, it has toured 20 cities worldwide amassing a truly overwhelming collection, that takes you into a highly emotional journey where regular people from all over the world share with brutal honesty objects and tales from failed relationships.

My last stop before leaving is Samobor, a small picturesque town dubbed the Zagrebian version of The Hamptons in New York. When Zagreb gets too hectic and stressed-out, Croatians come here to relax, enjoy local cakes and pastries and the beautiful medieval ambience.

Samobor is famous for its carnival, which takes place every February for two weeks and also for its custard slices and Bermet, an aperitif taken by Croatians before their meal.

As it’s been such great weather during my stay, I am not prepared for a rainy day in Samobor so I decide not to have a final walk around town, but it definitely looks like the perfect place to stroll along the river and enjoy the landscape surrounded by hills and mountains.

INFORMATION

• Croatia Airlines flies to Rijeka from London Heathrow in just over two hours. Prices start from £145.60 return, including taxes. London – Zagreb costs £110, including taxes.

For more information visit: www.croatiaairlines.com 0208 563 0022

• To obtain more information about Croatia contact:

Croatian National Tourist Office

0208 563 7979 - www.croatia.hr

ACCOMMODATION

Recommended hotels to stay in the Kvarner region:

• Krk: Hotel Koralj
• Opatija: Design Hotel Astoria
• Rab:Hotel Imperial
• Zagreb:Hotel Palace

Words Verónica Carpio Martín

“AND HOW ABOUT YOU, MADAM, WILL YOU BE GOLFING TOO?” ASKS ONE OF THE TALL, DARK AND HANDSOME, CONCIERGES.

“HMM, DONNAFUGATA GOLF AND SPA RESORT. SO THAT’S SPA AS WELL AS GOLF, I SEE.”

Not wanting the concierge – I already mentioned how handsome he was – to turn his attention to another guest I quickly answered the original question in the negative. I would take full advantage of the spa facilities and leave the golfing to the men.

In the South-East of Sicily, near the Baroque town of Ragusa, Donnafugata Golf Resort & Spa, part of the NH Hoteles group, is a luxury five-star resort, newly opened in summer 2010.

Situated close to the beautiful beaches of Camarina, Punta Secca and the Marina di Ragusa, the resort is a fantastic place to hone golfing skins on its two exclusive 18-hole championship courses. The Parkland course was designed by Gary Player, the legendary, world-famous player and award-winning designer of over two hundred courses situated throughout the world. The course runs along the rustic countryside of Ragusa, which can be seen all around, offering players fabulous views.

The Links course has suitably different characteristics. The holes stretch over two large valleys, each of which includes a lake. The fairways have been carved out of the newly landscaped areas that skirt them, which means that so that their profiles stand out. This creates plays on colour which change wonderfully according to the seasons of the year.

If, like me, players are trying out golf for the first time, the Golf Academy of Donnafugata Golf Resort & Spa will be a valuable facility. Using the very latest technology combined with traditional methods, highly qualified instructors are on hand to help all players with learning the techniques on to their choice of equipment, and understanding the psychology of golf.

The resort houses nine meeting rooms all equipped with the latest in audio-visual/conference technology which was show-cased at the press conference called by the legendary golfer, Gary Player. At 75 he’s still playing pro-golf and keen to highlight the value of the Donnafugata golf courses.

Here at AGENT2 we’re very keen on well-being activities that feature spa experiences so moving swiftly on to the Donnafugata spa awarded “Traveller Favourite Overseas Day Spa for 2010” by Condé Nast Traveller.

Six rooms for aesthetic and wellness treatments; a beauty centre, sauna, steam bath, multi-sensory showers and heated indoor swimming pool, in which to relax immersed in three different types of whirlpool areas, offer days devoted to beauty care and pure relaxation.

The spa is open daily from 9am to 9pm and also includes a top-of the-range multi-gym centre. The empty marble room with clouds of steam descending about me was the perfect way to begin my spa experience. The heat and moisture of the steam bath allowed my pores to open and I spent many glorious minutes perspiring my cares away.

The ‘Culti Method’ philosophy is utilised in the techniques that the masseuses apply. For up to 100 minutes the body is pampered; stress and tensions are melted away with the warmth of hands gently activating your lymphatic system to drain any water retention.

The luxurious treatment rooms and heated indoor swimming pool look out over the incredible surrounding scenery, which allowed me to become totally absorbs in my own thoughts as I swam graceful lengths of breast stroke under the soft lighting. The complex also thoughtfully provides a ‘relax’ area in which I was able to sip herbal teas while perusing Italian fashion magazines.

The International buffet breakfast which included freshly prepared pastries and cappuccino at the Restaurant Il Fico D’India (which translates as The Prickly Pear) was a great way to start each day, as I found a rich spread of sweet and savoury specialities and dishes.

Each evening was spent enjoying the world-class cuisine at Resturant Il Carrubo (which translates as The Carob).The bright and airy dining room, where floor-to-ceiling windows provide stunning views of the surrounding golf courses and gardens, is the perfect setting for fine dining. The cuisine offers a delightful balance between tradition and innovation; Sicilian gastronomy, strongly influenced by the wisdom of Moorish recipes. These include high-grade fish – snapper, scorpion fish, octopus, tuna and prawns – all bought daily at the market and enhanced by the simple flavours of fresh vegetables such as aubergines and the Pachino cherry tomatoes that are typical of the Ragusa area,.

The Il Carrubo cellar offers an array wines from the finest Sicilian vineyards, along with a great selection of wines and spirits from the entire peninsula such as l‘Alcamo Bianco, Moscato and Passito di Pantelleria.

Nicknamed ‘The 19^th Hole’ the Club House is the perfect place to eat and drink after having played golf. The menu includes gourmet sandwiches to fresh seafood prepared with fresh local ingredients creating simple but absolutely delicious fare.

The resort is also an ideal base for exploring the towns of Ragusa, Modica both UNESCO World Heritage Site and, as such, the cradle of Sicilian Baroque. These are homes to the legendary Donnafugata Castle near Ragusa and the extraordinary and unique chocolate of Modica, produced with an ancient and original Aztec recipe in Modica and are gateways to Sicily’s charms of the past.

HOW TO GET THERE

British Airways operates flights from London Gatwick to Catania – www.britishairways.com

Alitalia operates flights from London Heathrow and London City Airports to Catania via Milan Linate and Rome and flights from Glasgow via Amsterdam and Rome – www.alitalia.com

Transfer from Catania International airport to Donnafugata Resort and Spa is 1 hour, 30 minutes by car.

Airport and helicopter transfers are available on request.

Donnafugata Golf Resort & Spa

Contrada Piombo

97100

Ragusa

ITALY

Phone: +39 0932 914200

Fax: +39 0932 914222

Email: nhdonnafugata@nh-hotels.com

Web: http://www.donnafugatagolfresort.com

Prices start at €250 per night for a Standard Room.

Words Almaz Ohene

ITALY… THE COUNTRY OF PIZZA, PASTA, TIRAMISU, ICE CREAM, CAPPUCCINO, MACHIATTO, LATTE, LIMONCELLO. THE COUNTRY OF LEONARDO DA VINCI, MICHELANGELO, SOFIA LOREN, MONICA BELLUCCI… THE COUNTRY OF HISTORY, ART, ROMANCE, PASSION, LOVE… I HAVE BEEN TO ITALY MANY TIMES SINCE I WAS 16 AND I HAVE ALWAYS ADMIRED HISTORIC ROME, CHIC MILANO, THE COSMOPOLITAN AMALFI COAST BUT THERE IS SOMETHING ABOUT THE TUSCAN REGION MORE MYSTERIOUS, MORE DISTURBING, MORE STRIKING THAT MAKES IT INCOMPARABLE WITH ANY OTHER ITALIAN REGIONS.

As my taxi takes me from Pisa airport to the Fattoria Mansi Bernardini, I can’t stop admiring the view, the postcard-perfect hills and trees that adorn the Tuscan landscape, creating a romantic and intriguing ambiance that has attracted millions of travellers for decades.

It’s the first Yoga & Arts Healing holiday held in this sumptuous villa so I am really interested to practise yoga and to find out the benefits of healing therapy.

My first session is a creative free flow workshop by Dalia Zermon, an abstract artist and creator of the company Paint Jam London, which offers art & meditation workshops. Dalia starts the session explaining that it’s not about improving our painting or drawing skills but a way to relax, release bad energy and do meditation through painting. I begin painting, mixing different colours and let my fingers freely move around the paper. It’s relaxing but after a while my paper is just full of random colours which I believe it’s not possible to mix anymore. Once everyone in the class has finished, Dalia asks everyone how we feel and what our paintings mean. Some people comment that the experience is very profound, enlightening and liberating. For me, it has been energizing, it feels great to let yourself go freely without worrying what other people think. Although not as meaningful and deep as I thought it would be, it definitely is an interesting journey through colour expression exercises and meditation.

Straight after, I rush to the yoga class. I have done sports since I was little and I work out often in the gym but I have never done yoga before so I am really curious to start the class and learn all about it.

The word yoga means “union” in Sanskrit, the language of ancient India where yoga originated. Yoga creates a union of mind, body and spirit.

Until now, my limited view of yoga was impossible postures that improve your flexibility and meditation through breathing and exercise but our teacher, Francis D’Angelo leads me to discover that there is much more to it. Francis has been a yoga teacher for 14 years and his open-minded and humorous Hatha style approach to yoga promotes physical, mental and emotional balance.

Although some of the postures weren’t easy, I managed to do most of them. The class was really enjoyable and it’s a great small-impact work out. The breathing and meditation techniques make you feel purified physically and mentally.

After the class, I have a look around this magnificent place. The Fattoria Mansi Bernardini is a luxurious farm situated in the hills of north Lucca. Its name, Bernardini, comes from a family of merchants who invested their money in this hilly area surrounded by olive trees and vineyards. Over the centuries the size of the farm increased enormously as the Bernardini family purchased nearby properties and Antonieta, last heir of the family, got married to the marquis Rafaello Mansi, bringing new interest to this splendid estate. Their first-born son and present owner, Luigi, relaunched this place as a luxury farm.

The Fattoria Mansi Bernardini has 4 separate villas, each with their own garden and pool. This exclusive Tuscan estate has also a group of 4 smaller houses, called “Il Borghetto”, with their own garden but sharing a pool. Every house boasts a living-room with TV, video player and CD stereo. The room’s décor is luxury-meets-history-meets-rustic. All the rooms have modern comforts but have preserved the original layout. They are very spacious, with low-energy eco lights and cosy, with a very homely feeling.

The Fattoria offers also a wine tasting excursion in Tenuta di Valgiano, where it’s explained how they produce the wine in this region. Since 2005, Tenuta di Valgiano is a member of Renaissance du Terroir, an association of 160 wine-makers worldwide under the common denominator of byodinamic agriculture, which means that they don’t use weed-killers, synthetic chemical products, concentrator or cryoextraction.

As I taste the white wine Tenuta di Valgiano 2007, the red wine Palistori di Valgiano 2008 along with mozzarella, scamorza (typical of this region), salami and focaccia uva (Italian bread with grapes), I can’t stop looking at the beautiful surroundings.

After too much wine and cheese, I head back to the Fattoria to get ready for my theta healing treatment. Having done some research before coming to Lucca, I discovered that theta healing removes the negative beliefs that make you unhappy, unhealthy and unfulfilled, downloading positive energy that will allow you to live your life how you really want to.

This treatment is done by Lorena Granata, a theta healing and abundance practitioner with more than 20 years’ experience in holistic and Shamanic medicine. The healing is supposed to be instantaneous, as it goes to your subconscious and destroys the negativity you no longer need. Lorena starts asking me what troubles me in my life and a repetitive process of me acknowledging my problems and Lorena downloading positive energy takes place. After the healing, I talk to other people and to some the process has really changed their lives. Do I feel like it has changed mine? Not really, but maybe I am too sceptical. If you really believe it will change you completely, probably it will.

Nevertheless, I think it’s a complex process to understand yourself better and what you need to improve or change to live and feel happier.

When thinking of the Tuscan region, Lucca never seems to be named. Other Tuscan cities such as Florence, Pisa or Siena have been taking all the protagonism, but Lucca is starting to shine on its own as one of the prettiest and more picturesque cities in Tuscany.

Lucca has Etruscan and Longobard origins and was well-known in Roman times. Its wealth came from silk, wool and leather, which were exported to England, France and Flanders. Lucca’s glorious past has left stunning churches and palazzos and, specially, its city-walls, still complete and well-preserved.

Its famous Piazza Anfiteatro, where the famous Roman amphitheatre used to be based, has become one of the landmarks of this city.

Bizarrely, Lucca is the biggest producer of tissue and toilet paper in the world.

Besides, one of its cathedrals, Duomo di San Martino, has a controversial sculpture of a black Christ, which is not even mentioned in guidebooks.

After the visit to Lucca, I get ready for my next treatment: Advanced Deep Tissue and Neuromuscular massage, by Kristina Karanyizc. I have always loved massages. There is something very revitalising and calming about them so I am really looking forward to relax my mind and muscles for one hour.

Kiristina believes that our physical problems have a huge connection with emotional and psychological issues. She tells me that the right part of our back is connected to masculine problems (boyfriend, husband, father, male boss, male friends etc.) while the left part is related to feminine ones (girlfriend, wife, mother, sister, female friends etc.).

She starts massaging my back vigorously, releasing my muscular and energy blockages, eliminating bad energies and replacing them with positive thoughts to heal, balance and nourish my whole body. Her touch is strong but soothing and I can honestly say that it is one of the best massages I have ever had.

Kristina gives the most effective massage treatment possible. Highly recommended.

My last treatment is The Journey, by Sandra Ferreira, a type of healing that clears emotional issues and blockages stored in your body. Sandra takes me through an emotional journey, looking at my subconscious and problems from the past, to the present and the future. Sandra’s aim is to help others to achieve a free, healthy and rich life, bringing passion, peace, love and freedom.

The Journey is an interesting process to analyse your past, evaluate your present and consider what you want to achieve in the future.

The Fattoria is the perfect place to escape from everything, detox, relax and become at peace with yourself. The stunning natural surroundings, luxurious villas and delicious Italian food and wine will make you feel like you are in heaven.

HOW TO GET THERE

• EasyJet flies to Pisa from London Gatwick and London Luton in less than 2 hours. Prices vary depending on the time of booking. For more information, visit: www.easyjet.co.uk
• The Versilia beaches are 25kms away. The Conque Terre is about an hour’s drive away, while Florence, Pisa and Siena can be easily reached in about an hour on the motorway.

THE FATTORIA MANSI BERNARDINI

• Extra-virgin olive oil and DOC colline Lucchesi wine are produced here following traditional agricultural methods.

• Cookery courses can be organised in the villa kitchen, using old recipes from the Mansi Bernardiny family.

• The Fattoria can accommodate 60 people and it’s an ideal place for small congresses, conventions, company meetings, relaxing holidays and weddings.

• The next Yoga & Healings Art holiday will take place next May 2011. The price is £495 pounds and includes: 1-week accommodation, breakfast, dinner, yoga, wine tasting excursion, use of tennis courts, private swimming-pool and private gardens.

For further information visit www.divineretreats.co.uk

Treatments price list:

MASSAGE: £50 per hour     www.involutiontherapies.com

THETA HEALING: £50 per session   www.thetahealingpracticionerlondon.com

JOURNEY HEALING: £35 per hour   www.holisticjourneytherapy.com

CREATIVE FREE FLOW: £30 per session, including material   www.paintjamlondon.co.uk

You can also book massage, theta healing and journey healing together for £125.

Fattoria Mansi Bernardini
Via di Valgiano, 34
55018 Segromigno in Monte
Lucca – Tuscany – Italy

0039 0583 921721

www.fattoriamansibernardini.com

Words Veronica Carpio Martin

Cologne, or Köln, as it is known in Germany, is nestled in West Germany, only an hour away from Brussels by train. One of the most popular tourist destinations in Germany, it is home to just one million inhabitants, making it a refreshing break from the hustle of larger European cities.

Cologne's imposing cathedral

However, whether you arrive by train, plane or boat, the first thing that will strike you as you enter the city won’t be its quiet cobbled streets or its famous river Rhine. I guarantee when your first breath is stolen, it’ll be upon seeing its imposing and impressive Cathedral.

A huge black-stone building with a ashy grey steeple stretching high into the foggy sky, the Cathedral holds historical tales that have lasted for centuries.

Now a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site, six million visitors come every year to see Germany’s largest Cathedral, which, at 45 metres tall, overlooks the rest of the city. Taking over 600 years to build, its foundations were first laid down in 1248 but it wasn’t completed until 1880, when it became the tallest building in the world. Nine years later, it lost this title to the Eiffel Tower, at 300 metres tall.

The gothic architecture of the church is itself outstanding – black stone carved into a variety of biblical figures stand above the entrance door, its high arched ceiling offers an arresting presence and its colourful stain glass windows stretch nearly its entire height. Mosaics are scattered on the floor and original 13^thC features can be found throughout. The tombs that circle the perimeter of the cathedral, as well as the crypt that rests underneath it, lend themselves rather well to the quiet, eerie atmosphere.

However, the reason why Cologne’s Cathedral is so significant isn’t really to do with its design, nor its impressive longevity. Within this heavily Catholic city, lay some of the most precious remains of its biblical heritage, for the Cathedral has housed the golden shrine of the Three Magi (Three Wise Men) since 1164. Pilgrims flock to Cologne every year on 6 January when the shrine is opened, to see their remains.

The only building in Cologne not to be bombed during WW2, the Cathedral has huge significance to its survivors and its people.

Our guide, André Fischer told us: “It’s impossible to describe the connection Cologners have to this church. It is part of us. It is our identity.”

The Cathedral isn’t the oldest thing about Cologne though. And it only took a short walk to realise what sort of history this city holds. A short stroll from the Cathedral we ambled across what looked like some old building debris, surrounded by fence and scaffolding. What we had actually stumbled across were the authentic ruins of Cologne’s Roman rule.  One of the oldest cities in the world (dating as far back as 58BC), Cologne houses some of the best preserved Roman ruins outside of Rome. Built using these ancient foundations, beneath Cologne’s modern and medieval buildings lays an entire Roman city.

One of the best places to experience its Roman history is to visit the Roman-Germanic Museum (5 EUR for adults), which centres round a huge Dionysus mosaic, uncovered during the Second World War. The museum is home to huge ruins such as tombstones and small remnants that have been discovered throughout the years including coins, weapons, tools and the largest collection of Roman glassware in the world. All these remains have helped uncover the vast history of this West German city, and tell of its prominence in the Ancient World.

Cologne by night

The Prätorium (2.50 EUR for adults) is another place not to miss if you’re keen on your Ancient History. Discovered in the World War Two rubble, the prätorium was once home to the city’s Governor and was one of the largest buildings in Cologne during Roman times. The building foundations have remained perfectly in tact aside from a deep gash through one its walls: a scar from a 4^thC earthquake. The walls, its underground heating system, and octagon rooms are all otherwise in perfect condition and give a brilliant insight into the life and history of this Roman province.

In the same visit, you can explore over 100 metres of Ancient canal sewage tunnels from 50AD, which are still in pristine condition.

One of the best ways to examine Cologne’s vast and varied history is to have a stroll through its Old Town (Altstadt). Though most of Cologne was destroyed during WW2, few buildings within this medieval quarter remained. Walk along its cobbled streets and through its sparse empty squares and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of this quiet part of the city. The narrow side streets are the best place to experience Cologne’s traditional beer holes and try its authentic cuisine. The Rhine promenade sprawling with colourful houses, picturesque plazas and lonesome benches add a special character to Cologne, giving a taste of what this beautiful city was like pre-1942.

Indeed, the story of the Second World War isn’t forgotten within this once-walled city. Its tight-knit community together with its rich heritage makes Cologners proud to be Cologners. But when the war broke out, their pride and indeed, their city was shattered. Whereas in 1939 there were 750,000 residents in Cologne, by 1945, there were only 42,000.

Cologne's annual carnival

Since then though, Cologne has successfully moved on: uncovering magnificent ancient ruins, restoring medieval streets and constructing a modern city centre around its fragile foundations in the ‘Rheinauhafen’, the new quarter. Home to some of the most popular shopping areas in Europe, the places to visit are Hohe Straß for department stores and Breite Straße for boutique shops. In recent years, the Belgian Quarter has become a thriving area for vintage clothes and trendy accessories.

Despite its turbulent past, Cologne has managed to salvage some of its major ruins and reinvent itself, creating a city full of stories, memories and character, that’s a true pleasure to visit.

Walking through its promenades as the splendid Cathedral is lit up on a cold wintry night, there’s a buzz that runs through the city; a reminder that every step taken is like a walkway through history.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Cologne is one hour ahead of the UK (GMT) and the currency is the EUR where £1=1.15 EUR. Visit during the six-day holiday of Carnival (Feb 11 - 17) where the streets come alive with parades, events and shows, and Cologners dress in colourful costumes. Visit www.koelntourismus.com for more information.

HOW TO GET THERE

German Wings fly to Cologne/Bonn Airport from London Stansted and have recently launched a new route from Manchester airport, flying five times per week. Flights take 1h 15 minutes. Prices start from £13.99 and can be booked at www.germanwings.com or by calling +44 (0)906 294 1918.

WHERE TO STAY

Excelsior Hotel Ernst +49 (0)221 2701 / www.excelsior-hotel-ernst.de)

Just 200 metres away from the Cologne’s main station and 20 metres from the Cathederal, this 5* hotel has everything you could require. As well as its proximity to the old quarter, Excelsior also boasts excellent modern suites, gym, spa and plenty of places to wine and dine including gourmet restaurant Hanse Stube, Piano Bar and the Riesling Lounge where guests can enjoy wine tasting sessions of Germany’s own wine variety, the Riesling. Double rooms start from 270EUR prpn.

CHECK OUT OUR GREAT EXCELSIOR “CITY ESCAPE” READER OFFER HERE.

OTHER PLACES TO VISIT

FARINA Fragrance Museum Find out the interesting story behind the world’s oldest fragrance company, Eau de Cologne. Follow the narrative tour by a ‘Rokoko parfumeur’ telling the tale of its creation in 1709 and its popularity among huge historical figures including Napoleon.

Lindt Chocolate Factory (7.50 EUR) Learn the history of chocolate-making, the branding of Lindt and try some chocolate for yourself.

Carnival Museum Museum of Cologne’s infamous Carnival showcasing masks, costumes and past videos where you can learn all about the city’s much-loved celebration.

WHERE TO EAT

Früh A traditional micro-brewery hosting Cologne’s famous brew, Kölsch and serving some of Germany’s traditional cuisine. Try the Rheinischer Sauerbuten (marinated beef with dumplings and red cabbage) for 13.95 EUR.

Taku Bar and Restaurant at the Excelsior Hotel

Taku, Excelsior Hotel An Asian restaurant in the 5* hotel serving quality meals from Japan, Thailand and Vietnam.

Words Natasha Al-Atassi

A SHORT WAY FROM THE BRITISH COAST LIES ONE OF FRANCE’S MOST INTERESTING REGIONS, DRAWING VISITORS WITH ITS WONDERFUL COASTLINE, ATTRACTIVE TOWNS AND GREAT FOOD. AGENT2 CROSSES THE CHANNEL TO DISCOVER THE CHARM OF BRITTANY, A UNIQUE REGION RICH IN HISTORY AND BEAUTY.

I didn’t know much about this part of France, but I soon found out there’s more to it than just Asterix the Gaul.

As I set foot in Rennes, the city didn’t first strike me as a place of cultural and social ferment that I had expected from its pride and resistance to power, much like Asterix’s adventures. Its quiet streets, timber-framed houses and slow pace convinced me that the renowned local passionate temperament was just a saying.

However, I soon reconsidered. After attending the music festival the city hosts every December, Les Transmusicales, I saw first-hand the passion and life this region has to offer.

Fever Ray performing at Les Transmusicales

Les Transmusicales is an annual showcase of incredible new musical trends and talents. With a beer in hand, I ventured inside the huge hangars of the Parc Expo.

For four days a year, Rennes becomes the European capital of music: artists from all over the globe come to town to perform in front of  30,000 strong crowd.

New trends in music are offered all night long for a marathon that explores many genres. I danced to the songs from Jamaican artist Terry Lynn, I enjoyed the dark and sometimes unsettling beats of Fever Ray, the amazingly talented BLK JKS and the mind-blowing electro-reggae of Major Lazer. After my second night at Les Trans, Rennes already showed much more character than I thought it ever could.

My ears still burning from the concerts, the following morning I set out to discover the city. A big part of the old town was devastated in a fire in 1720, but it’s still easy to imagine what Rennes must have looked like if its timber-framed houses were still there amongst its bright colours and tiny alleys.

But the beating heart of Rennes is in its squares. The elegant Place de la Republique is a perfect starting point to visit the city. Just make sure you don’t spend all of your time shopping: the famous storeGaleries Lafayettes is here, and the streets all around are full of boutiques.

Walking for a few minutes along streets lined with nice houses and funny restaurant signs, I found myself in front of the imposing neoclassical silhouette of the Cathédrale Saint Pierre. Nearby is Place des Lices, which hosts a lively and noisy market every Saturday, the second biggest in France. It is crammed with locals stocking up on oysters, mouth-watering cheese and freshly baked bread.

The busy Place Saint-Anne is dominated by the Palais du Parlament de Bretagne, which was seriously damanged by a fire in 1994, after a violent demonstration by local fishermen. In front of the Parlament there were many stalls selling delicious local food and I challenge you toresist the temptation of  crêpes avec chocolat.

Foodies won’t be disappointed: Rennes is dotted with charming restaurants offering ample opportunity to savour the local cuisine and take in the atmosphere of this peculiar city.

Less than one hour north of the city is the Emerald Coast. Its rugged and windy cliffs overlook gulfs with cobalt blue water, while the waves crash on rocks and lighthouses appear on the horizon. Clouds travel fast, and rainbows colour the sky.

A visit to the village is a must; walking along the harbour you can see the evanescent silhouette of Mont St-Michel. When the sun is not shining, everything seems to romantically seep into black and white.

The real gem of the coastal area is Saint Malo, an elegant walled city.

Its past is one of pirates, sailors and privateers, and walking on the ramparts around the town centre, the wind blowing fiercely, I contemplated the forts and rocks dotting the sea all around. The sun was setting, making the buildings shine like gold.

As I recall my time there, I understand that the warm and welcoming people, jaw-dropping panoramas and rich heritage of Brittany are not only enough to make me want to come back, but also to realize why Asterix was so determined to keep Rome’s hands off it.

WHERE TO STAY

Located a few steps away from Rennes’s train station, Hotel Astrid is a great place to stay. For EUR 55 prpn, it’s only a few minutes away from the city centre. Rooms are simple, quiet and clean. The hall and the breakfast room are very well-decorated, and having a warm baguette with jam in a stylish room is the perfect way to start your day.

WHAT TO DO

VISIT THE LITTLE OYSTER MARKET IN CANCALE

For breath-taking views of Mont Saint-Michel and to snap a picture of a site of oyster harvesting, walk to this tiny market at the end of Cancale’s seafront.

THE MEDIEVAL TOWN OF DINAN

Discover the ancient charm of this little village. Its port, on the river, has great views on the woods and hills around, an old stone bridge and a Roman aqueduct.

HAVE A COFFEE IN SAINT MALO

Le Café du coin d’en bas de la rue du bout de la ville d’en face du port Le Java, 3 Rue Saint Barbe, is an unusual and eccentric place, where stools are swings, the toilet is hidden in a wooden booth and thousands of porcelain dolls, puppets, pictures and stuffed animals make customers’ heads spin. You’ll barely know what you are drinking, too busy looking around. Which is a pity, because the coffee is actually really good.

HOW TO GET THERE

Ryanair flies from London Stansted to Dinard in one hour. Prices vary but good offers can be found at ryanair.com.

Flybe flies to Rennes directly from Southampton, and from Manchester, Edinburgh, Exeter, Belfast and Newcastle connecting in Southampton.

For more information visit brittanytourism.com

Words and images Roberto Priolo

A BIRD SINGING, THE RAIN FALLING ON LEAVES, THE WIND CARESSING BUSHES AND BRANCHES ARE SOUNDS AND MUSIC OF NATURE AND THE KNIFE WITH MT. SIMS AND PLANNINGTOROCK HAVE CHANNELED THESE MELODIES IN THE ELECTRONIC OPERA “TOMORROW, IN A YEAR”.

Through the centuries nature has inspired many poets, painters, writers and musicians, who have tried to express the beauty, strength and complexity of the world around them. But these guys have gone beyond.

The project was proposed by the Danish performance group Hotel Pro Forma who wanted to take on stage Darwin’s “On The Origin Of The Species” and his researches about nature and wildlife.

The Knife were the first to be contacted and they then decided to let Mt. Sims and Planningtorock take part in the realization of this innovative work.

The result is an electronic opera that combines artificial sounds and field recordings. Olof Dreijer (The Knife) went in fact to the Amazon and Iceland to find inspiration and to record real sounds from wild nature.

He says: “At first it was very difficult as we really didn’t know anything about opera. But after some studying, and just getting used to opera’s essence of pretentious and dramatic gestures, I found that there is a lot to learn and play with. In fact, our ignorance gave us a positive respectless approach to making opera. It took me about a year to become emotionally moved by an opera singer and now I really do. I really like the basic theatrical values of opera and the easy way it brings forward a narrative. We’ve approached this before in The Knife but never in such a clear way.”

15 tracks compose the melodic world of Tomorrow, In A Year: a wonderful, dreaming but dangerous world in which the mystery of unknown nature but also the surprise of discovering new animal and plant species are described.

An opera singer, a pop singer and an actor also enrich the performance, all this accompanied by light projections.

The show is a real travel in a new world seen through Darwin’s eyes and it changes as fast as life and nature do. During the first part single elements are introduced, then they gather and merge becoming a whole before changing again in something new and undiscovered.

Ralf Richardt Strøbech is the co-director with Kirsten Dehlholm. He explains, “Time forms our lives, gives our existence meaning and populates the globe. Generations, eons and millions of years create the new and eradicate existences. Nature selects, invites and dares everything without limitation.”

Everything changes. Today, tomorrow, in a year, forever. Things develop, mutate and so do we.

theknife.net

hotelproforma.dk

rabidrecords.com/tomorrowinayear

Words Luca Russo

FAMOUS FRENCH CAPTAIN JEAN-JACQUES COUSTEAU HAS WRITTEN ONCE: “THE RED SEA IS A PASSAGE OF WONDERS; THE HAPPIEST HOURS OF MY DIVING EXPERIENCE WERE SPENT HERE”.

AGENT2 ventures to Egypt to discover whether Cousteau was right and explores the other wonders that Sharm el-Sheikh has to offer, beyond its pristine beaches and priceless diving.

Indeed, these words would be echoed by anybody who has the chance to spend some time in this astonishing region of the globe. In fact, few places in the world offer divers the chance to discover the unspoiled beauty of the ocean bed as Egypt does.

Located on the east shore at the southernmost tip of the Sinai Peninsula, and with a consistent tropical climate and 60km of sandy beaches, Sharm el-Sheikh has become the leading tourist spot in Sinai and an ultra modern Mecca for divers.

Now developed into a luxury holiday complex, it has become treasured by divers and sun-lovers across the globe. Famous hotels that share its beautiful bays include Marriott, Hilton, Hyatt, Ritz Carlton and the Four Seasons but behind these high-rises, lie Sharm’s endearing secrets: that it still has some of the best diving spots in all the Red Sea.

A great way to start exploring the area is to dive to the amazing reefs of the National Park of Ras Muhammad. Created in 1983 to protect coral reefs and the fragile environment, this marine park boasts corals brighter than anywhere I have ever seen before.

In this ocean of cobalt blue and feeling utterly disconnected, it’s not hard to see why this is one of the world’s most famous dive sites.

For those who haven’t tried it, scuba diving is like visiting another planet. In the majestic Ras Mohammed National Park, the landscape of fluttering reef walls and pinnacles seemed as unfamiliar as the canyons of Mars. The fish are weird in both colour and shape; parrotfish with their beaklike lips, goatfish sporting forked beards, and unicornfish that spar and horn-joust like the mythic beast.

I could have spent hours swimming there, in silence, away from the noisy city. Even though I eventually climb back up to the yacht, I knew that my time spent in that underwater palace would remain cherished memories.

As well as excellent diving, Sharm is close enough to the South Sinai desert that you can enjoy the sumptuous dunes with no problem. Many local and international tour operators include daily excursions including camel rides and jeep safaris.

After enjoying everything about my snorkeling experience, I went to the dryness of the Sinai. Throughout our journey to the deep desert, I was fascinated by the tribes of nomads, called Bedouins, who seemed able to live in the arid inhospitality of the desert.

They have adapted themselves brilliantly over the years to desert life, even though I can imagine how prettier and more romantic the sight of them must have been a couple of generation ago – with no piles of rubbish, no 4-wheel drives and no TV.

One thing that has survived ‘the progress of the western world’ is the beautiful bond between Bedouins and their camels. It is still the Bedouin’s constant companion. He drinks its milk; he feasts on its flesh; he covers himself with its skin; he makes his tent of its hair. Its dung is used as fuel. It is his shelter in the cold winter nights and protector against sandstorms. It is the special gift of Allah: Ata’ Allah.

The camel has now predominantly been exchanged for the 4-wheel-drive, but they still play an important part. Trained racing and carrying tourists on camel treks, they assist the Bedouin in becoming part of Sinai’s growing sources of income.

Its camels aren’t the only tool that attracts tourists though. South Sinai’s landscape is phenomenal. A silhouette of silver mountains, they shadowed the beautifully rich colours that were unforgettably inspiring.

A series of bays with innumerable and extraordinary coral reefs, Egypt has made a goal of turning the Red Sea into the new Riviera.

And the signs of development are everywhere: half-built Moorish domes, fieldstone walls in progress and lonely, unopened hotels. Even the nightlife in this Muslim city is modern and developed, and in fact- quite liberated. In 2005, Little Buddha, a sushi bar, took the title of having the longest continuous bar in the Middle East. Even dance club franchise Pacha has one of its three African clubs in Sharm. These nightclubs and restaurants contribute greatly to the lifestyle led by Sharm el-Sheikh’s tourists each year.

Yet, the signs of development have also had other effects: high-rise hotels stain Sharm’s exquisite coast, and an onslaught of European tourists have turned this once traditional, ethnic port into a hub for tour operators, bars, and all-inclusive resorts.

But don’t be dismayed. Sharm has a stretch of silky sandy beaches you will struggle to find elsewhere and coral as bright as you can imagine that it still shouldn’t be missed. So when you book your ticket, just remember Cousteau’s words.

Sharm el-Sheikh should be remembered for one of the best coral reefs in the world. Don’t let the rest put you off.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

WHERE TO STAY

A few resorts offers luxury on a silver plate like does Hyatt Regency Sharm El Sheikh.

Located only 10 mins from the International Airport and less than an hour’s flight from Cairo, Hyatt Regency resort is embraced by the spectacular land and seascapes of mother nature. The unparalleled resort offers an extraordinary blend of international cuisine restaurants and entertainment including folkloric Egyptian dances and music.

All 471 spacious rooms and suites provide magnificent views of the Red Sea from its immense balconies.

SHARMELSHEIKH.REGENCY.HYATT.COM

WHAT TO DO

DIVING

There are over 20 renowned dive sites around Sinai – including the world-famous Ras Mohammad Marine Nature Reserve.

Cfun Divers are the guys to organize your snorkeling and diving trips with. The staff is fully licensed and insured. You will feel at ease with these professionals.

CFUNDIVERS.COM

CAMEL RIDES, BEDOUIN DINNER AND STARGAZING

You can enjoy a 30 minute camel ride, before tasting the Bedoin’s delicious cuisine and trying Egypt’s shisha, a traditional water pipe.

SHARM-CLUB.COM/ACTIVITIES_SHARM_EL_SHEIKH/BEDOUIN_TOURS_SINAI.HTM

THE MONASTERY OF SAINT-CATHERINE

A formidable, fortified monastery, built in the 6^thC under the Roman Empire on what was regarded as the place of Moses’ Burning Bush.

SINAIMONASTERY.COM

MOUNT SINAI (OR MOUNTAIN OF MOSES)

Sacred to Muslims, Jews and Christians, Mount Sinai overlooks the monastery of Saint Catherine at 2285m. You can expect some great views at sunset and sunrise.

HOW TO GET THERE

There are daily flights from the UK to Sharm El Sheikh. It takes 5h30 from Manchester and 5 hours from London.

MONARCH.CO.UK

Words and images Vincent Bernier  Editor Natasha Al-Atassi

WHEN THE SUBJECT OF PORTUGESE TRAVEL WAS BROACHED, THE FIRST THINGS THAT SPRANG TO MIND WERE OVERCROWDED ALGARVE BEACHES, PORTO WINE AND CRISTIANO RONALDO. NOT OVERJOYED BY THE PROSPECT OF SPENDING A HOLIDAY NEXT TO 18-30 YEAR-OLD PASTY BRITS AND COMING TO THE CONCLUSION THAT RONALDO PROBABLY WON’T BE PASSING ME IN THE STREET, I WAS STARTING TO BECOME VERY GRATEFUL FOR THE WINE. THANKFULLY THOUGH, THE PORTUGUESE OFFERING I WAS EMBARKING ON WAS TO THE SMALL ISLAND OF MADEIRA. DESPITE MY EXCITEMENT OF COPIOUS AMOUNTS OF MADEIRA CAKE BEING QUASHED WHEN I FOUND OUT IT DOESN’T ACTUALLY EXIST ON THE ISLAND, I MADE FINDINGS ABOUT THIS REMOTE ISLE AND WHAT ENCHANTED BEAUTIES IT HAS TO OFFER, THAT I HAD NEVER IMAGINED. SURPRISING MYSELF AND MY BRIEF KNOWLEDGE OF ITS FEW EXPORTS, I DISCOVERED THAT THERE WERE MANY REASONS TO VISIT MADEIRA, BEYOND AND ABOVE ITS NAME-SAKE CAKE.

Situated to the south of Portugal and resting directly west of Morocco, Madeira is a phenomenal discovery. Isolated, over 1000km from the Algarve, visiting Madeira brings the thrill and mystery of uncovering a remote and lonely island far from any cultural distinctions.

This little hotspot was founded by chance in 1419, when Portuguese travelers detoured after their ship wrecked. Since then, this once sleepy, Atlantic outpost has attracted its fair share of grey-haired holiday-makers thanks to its year-round warm and pleasant micro-climate and its countless golf courses.

But don’t let this put you off, the island has attracted tourists since the 19^th Century and now the words ‘cool’ and ‘hip’ can be banded around freely as in more recent years as the island has attempted to give its silver-haired image a makeover.

AGENT2 has set out to find what now attracts younger globetrotters like us to Madeira

Funchal, Madeira’s capital, is an ideal place to start. With the airport nearby, and a city bursting with things to do, it is a great location to ‘set up camp’.

The largest cosmopolitan city offers the visitor both a fantastic urban life and a view of the natural beauties of this small island. Cocooned in a wide valley, the city spreads itself over the gentle harbour slopes to the high mountain tops, reaching over 1200m to the cushioned area in between.

The best way to get a panoramic view of the populous city is by cable car, which will also allow you an excellent, birds-eye-view of Funchal Bay.

The 11 minute journey to the summit at Monte are well worth it. As well as a fantastic vista of Funchal’s lively city, you can also treat yourself to a view of 35,000 m² of flowerbeds and 2,000 exotic plants visible at the city’s Botanical Gardens (montepalace.com) For an exhilarating ride back down the hill, opt for traveling by a basketwork sledge. Breakneck speeds are achieved so beware; this method of transport is not suggested for the faint hearted. We can safely say that this option distances Funchal easily from the “O.A.P. massive” that the island had become synonymous with.

Funchal’s Farmer’s Market (pbase.com/alpiner/) is the perfect antidote to life-threatening outdoor activities. At the centre point of the town, the market is set in a huge space typifying the region’s Art-Deco-like, New State architecture (Estado Novo.)Vibrant and bustling fresh fish, vegetables and other local delicacies are poured over by locals and tourists alike.

Funchal is also Madeira’s focal point for bars and clubs. Sip cocktails by the pool of any of its newest, hip hotels. Head to the harbour for clubs and bars; seek out Vespas (myspace.com/vespasclub.com), the island’s largest club, for late nights and outdoor summer parties.  Chic new eateries are aplenty in the city if great food, conversation and people watching are your thing.

Madeira’s all-year-found temperate climate has produced a landscape that is carpeted in lush vegetation. To get a glimpse of the island’s many vineyards, sugar cane groves and sparkling green hills, take part in a trek. Indeed, walking is the perfect way to view Madeira’s splendid scenery – without breaking the bank. The Levada Walks are walking trails that allow you to trek alongside Madeira’s Levadas (mini-canals), that date back to the 15^th Century. You can opt for a guide or journey beside Madeira’s unique water-supply system alone. Although the Levadas were constructed primarily for agricultural use they are just as important for tourists and local people alike who want to enjoy outdoor adventure activities inaccessible by cars.

One of the most popular – and manageable – treks has to be the Levada do Rabacal. (madeira-levada-walks.com/blog/) Surrounded by a vibrant, sub-tropical forest of laurels, myrtle and other plants that retain their intense green colour all year-round, it’s not hard to guess why the aristocrats from the old continent loved the island enough to move here many moons ago.

Being an island, it goes without saying that Madeira is as much about the sea as it is about land. Madeira lies far into the Atlantic Ocean, 310 miles from Morocco and twice as far from mainland Portugal. Located along the migratory path of many different species of marine animal. Madeira offers the opportunity to spend a day whale and dolphin watching. This is a must for any traveler wishing to take in the truly unique aspects of Madeira’s geographical position.

As the sun beats down on the ocean, there is nothing more beautiful than the variety of dolphins you can spot (Common, Oceanic and Stipped). If you’re very fortunate, watch whales as they dart across the boat’s hull, and skim the waves with simultaneous speed and grace.

After exerting all of your energies, what better way to kick back than to relax with a light lunch and generous amount of that famous Madeira wine – well, it would be rude not to, wouldn’t it?

The beautiful 19^th Century hotel, Estalagen do Vale (estalagemdovale.com) is the perfect place to sample some of Madeira’s gastronomic delights. Having taken on many guises in its life – from school to hospital – Estalagen do Vale is a unique insight into Madeira’s architecture and history, as well as a brilliant place to work your way through Madeira’s vast collection of wines.

Drinking to excess aside, Madeira has long been famed for the curative qualities of its climate.  Yet another reason to enjoy Madeira’s ever-warm climate, as if you’d need one. For another welcome reason to leave the weight of the world behind you, visit the newly opened Spa de Quintinha, where rest, relaxation and reinvigoration are available in abundance (quintinhasaojoao.com) AGENT2 recommends the invigorating hydration treatment. Exfoliating the body with red fruits followed by a full body massage, this therapy should be on the top of any ‘R and R’ seekers wish list. The spa also offers a range of other services from anti-cellulite treatments to body-firming mud wraps that will ensure their newly acquired younger globetrotters will stay looking younger for longer.

Madeira has also become a hub for youthful activity with its growing popularity amongst surfers. Dubbed the Hawaii of Europe, Madeira’s wold-famous Jardim do Mar beach  (surfline.com/surf-report/jardim-do-mar-madeira_6953/) is only a 20 minute drive Ponta do Sol, on the southern coast. Free shuttles also run from the Estalagem do Ponte that brings you to the levada walks and Funchal Airport.

After my stay, I definitely approve Madeira’s effort to rejuvenate the island’s reputation. Madeira has become a delicious attraction for the younger crowd, offering everything from clear blue skies, warm air and piercing sunlight, to mouth-watering wine, delightful fish and jaw-dropping natural beauty. Together with its welcoming Moorish and Mediterranean atmosphere, this transformation has seemed to come effortlessly, for I can see no reason not to come back to Madeira, again and again and again.

Madeira definitely takes pride of place on my destination much-loved list. You might not find Ronaldo or even Madeira cake here on the island, but it is a place of magical discoveries sure to enchant and entice every single type of traveler, from young to old.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Madeira is located South of Portugal and West of Morocco and has an all-year-round warm climate.

Currency is the Euro (£1 = €1.14).

easyJet flies from London Stansted to Madeira from £30.99 one way (£54.98 return) including tax. To book visit www.easyJet.com or call 0905 821 0905

easyJet flies from Bristol to Madeira from £24.99 one way (£45.98 return) including tax. To book visit www.easyJet.com or call 0905 821 0905

easyJet flies from London Gatwick to Madeira from £33.99 one way (£57.98 return) including tax. To book visit www.easyJet.com or call 0905 821 0905

WHERE TO STAY

Nestled atop the highest cliff of the unspoiled village of Ponta do Sol, the Estalagem da Ponta do Sol is definitely worth a stay.

The fruit of the union between nature and clever design, the Estalagem do Ponta do Sol (pontadosol.com) is now member of the prestigious Design Hotels Club (designhotels.com). A renovated farm, the architects successfully achieved perfection in integrating modern concept into the breathtaking natural surroundings. The the simplicity of the decor and the innovative design pieces create a relaxing and cosy atmosphere will definitely please guests. Only 25 minutes from Funchal and 40 minutes from the airport, Ponta do Sol offers you the opportunity to explore a 500 year old traditional village as well as enjoy its beautiful surfing beaches. Prices start from €93 prpn and include breakfast.

For a complete and in-depth guide on your next Madeira visit madeira-web.com or quintas-madeira.com

Words and images Vincent Bernier

Edited Natasha Al-Atassi

RAD HOURANI IS A NEW PIONEER IN GENDER-BENDING FASHION. THE STYLIST TURNED FASHION DESIGNER HAS JUST RELEASED HIS NEW 2010-SPRING/SUMMER COLLECTION, WHICH IS SURREAL AND GOTHIC, USING ABSTRACT SHAPES WITH A FLOURISH OF DARK, SOMBER COLOURS. DRESSING IN A NON-CONFORMIST, ANDROGYNOUS FACADE IS A FASHION STATEMENT TO SAY THE LEAST, BUT ALSO A TREND THAT HAS BEEN SEEN IN MANY PREVIOUS HIGH FASHION CATWALK SHOWS OVER THE YEARS. HOURANI’S EXPRESSIVE USE OF AN ANDROGYNOUS BLEND, WITH OUTLANDISH SILHOUETTES, MINIMAL COLOUR AND DYNAMIC SHAPES, OFFERS A FRESH NEW APPROACH IN THE WORLD OF FASHION DESIGN.

A mass of black, skinny, shiny, geometric shapes and reflective, futuristic layered fabrics, he sends a volcanic wave down the clean, white catwalk. Heels send a potent message, as the male and female models featured in Hourani’s catwalk show are wearing the squared, chunky heel with style and grace. Skinny slashed trousers, with a mixture of PVC/ leather style fabrics, scream new wave emo/goth, very much informed by the indie rock scene. With sharp, intricately cut shoulder lines, the clothing is built heavy on top, and as you work your way down, the silhouette felt lighter and skinnier in shape and fit.

Since his first collection in 2007, Hourani has shown his flair for the minimalist, the abstract and the surreal. His look, as well as his collections, are inspired by a new generation of designers who see fashion as mix and match of identity and gender role playing, from Gaultier and Galliano, who have toiled with sexuality, creating new masculine and feminine guises through their high fashion catwalk shows.

The collection is very much a futuristic blend of new age warrior meets indie kid. The catwalk marches of models were very difficult to distinguish, who was male or female? A deliberate approach to setting alight an array of dominate looks that can be worn by either a man or a woman, maybe. From gender bending to the clothing consisting of rich blacks and greys with hints of white. His previous autumn/winter 2008 collection used an electric red, mixed with blacks and greys also. The layering adds to the look of an armored, shield-like affect, with a hint of strong shoulder pads, 80′s style; think Prince and Grace Jones.

I got to put some questions to Rad Hourani to see what inspired this boundary breaking designer. This is what he had to say:

What inspired you for this new collection?

It’s just a transformation from the season before. I don’t really make a ‘statement’ with each collection. Therefore I do not start every new season with a specific theme or concept, but rather try to establish continuity from one to the next. I always wanted to work with metallic fabric & texture and I found these 100% silver chains and some metallic zippers, but I never really liked zippers, and I thought it would be great to do something different with zippers that can be useful and can give a metallic effect. You can make jackets sleeves shorter or transform the jacket into a vest, trousers into shorts and even on the sides you can make things tighter with the zippers so there’s a transformation element. I also wanted to focus on my signature look and pieces that I started since my debut; my main colours are black and white, my straps pants, my open elbow sleeve, my vest/top/dress, my skirt/pants and my half leg leather pants.

Black is featured throughout in this collection and many of your previous collections. How would you convince Anna Wintour of U.S Vogue magazine to include it in her run though for the magazine? As you know she hates black…

I am more attached to the notion of purity and by choosing black simple, stark lines. I strive to blur gender boundaries; apparent simplicity, but refinement in details and if I end up using all black for a collection, why not? Black is mysterious, chic, unisex, slick and timeless. Fashion for me is about clothes transcending simple functionality and gaining symbolic, evocative power by engaging in a dialogue with their environment and their time. It’s a tool for self-expression and self-invention. Anna Wintour need to set up trends for her magazine each season like all other editors to keep the fashion machine going, which I respect, but I’m not into trends or fashion, I’m into style in which I focus on my signature look. I don’t need to be the one who makes the boldest statement every season, I’d much rather commit to my personal aesthetics and that of the people who like to wear my clothes. There’s nothing scarier than making fashion, or anything else, for that matter, that everybody agrees on.

You have said your designs are ‘sophisticated modern classics for anti-conformist individuals’. Can you explain further?

Circumstances have brought me to move around from an early point in my life, and I’ve felt compelled to continue on doing so; for this experience has made me consider things in a wider perspective, with no restrictions. I want to convey this notion into my line, and design clothes that can be worn anywhere, anytime. I hope to reach people who do not define themselves primarily as men or women, who go beyond the classical demographical criteria, with no limit of age or national identity. I also try to find the right balance of something that’s not too gothic, funky or rock ‘n’ roll, something that has no reference of one limited style. You can mix my pieces with any style without looking contrived or overdone.

Androgyny, and this asexual feel to your collection, as well as previous ones, is very much a statement within your work. Why is that?

It doesn’t make sense to me why a woman will wear a dress or high heels and not a man. When I say unisex, it’s really in looking at the lines. They are straight, there are no curves: they don’t have a feminine or masculine. It is completely genderless. I believe that using what I would like to wear, as a starting point to the design process is the most truthful and straightforward approach, for it allows me to stay focused on my aesthetic statement and also assess my commitment to wearability, functionality, and comfort. I design from a virgin point of view, trying to elude classical ready-to-wear rules that made us believe that women and men deserve different approaches. My pieces are timeless and freed from any gender differentiations.

Your work borders on cutting edge, yet timeless in some ways. Is that a deliberate approach, and why?

Yes, my clothes have erupted from this world of mine. They are asexual, aseasonal. I’m into unisex, timeless, long, straight, sharp, black, slick, geometric shapes and layered silhouettes that, by the use of noble, fluid materials, come alive through the movement of the wearer. They come from no place, no time, no tradition, yet they can be home anywhere, anytime. They exude a sense of discreet chic, the essence of timeless style, drawn on a monochromatic and graphical canvas. I never went to any school after high school for that matter and I guess my influences are the gathering of my own personal experiences and observations over the years; not something somebody told me to do or think. To that end, my collection might be more personal.

RADHOURANI.COM

Words Joe Tehrani

The region of Murcia, on the South-East coast of Spain, is home to the now infamous resort group, Polaris World. Renowned among UK property owners for its quality villas, Polaris World resorts also host a variety of different accommodation to allow everyone to enjoy its luxurious facilities. Most popular with holiday-goers are its seven 5* InterContinental hotels dotted all over the coast.

Each resort offers guests a break of pure relaxation, with onsite amenities that include outdoor and indoor swimming pools, buffet breakfasts, supermarkets, a choice of delicious restaurants, bars and cafes, and of course Murcia’s quality Jack Nicklaus designed golf courses for a perfect weekend retreat. Polaris’ resorts also feature the ultimate in decadent breaks; the crème de la crème of world renowned spas.

Indeed, its spas unveil an oasis of opulence in this barren area, exuding luxury at its absolute finest. Polaris World’s Mar Menor Golf Resort and Spa contains well-known British spa, ESPA, free to use for all hotel guests. This spa is exquisite; every feature is embellished and every detail scrupulously seen to.

The hotel itself is composed of Arabic and Andalucían influences with limestone walls, marble bathrooms, ornate wooden screens and rich deep colours, paying homage to its traditional Spanish heritage. All the resorts are high-quality design masterpieces individually characterised by open-plan bathroom/bedrooms, huge waterfall shower rooms or perfectly located balconies all offering beautiful vistas.

At ESPA, these excellent features persist, allowing guests to not only feel indulged but respectfully regal too. Its Moorish architecture of dark oak woods, mosaics, lanterns and fine tiles is replicated within the spa, creating a seductive relaxing mood, and resulting in an effortless flow from one room to the next.

ESPA prides itself in giving guests a ‘journey’; a voyage to another realm, where unadulterated relaxation is the intent. ESPA spas appear all over the world, in their own unique format, aiming to grant guests total harmony in mind and body. Every moment of this ‘journey’ is so categorically peaceful, entrancing visitors as soon as they slip the cushioned slippers upon their tired feet.

Mar Menor’s spa reflects local architecture and its associated mysticism. It is also has specially designed natural products to ‘evoke sensations of Arabian exoticism and Mediterranean allure.’

Whilst a visit to ESPA in the UK could leave a big hole in your account, all hotel guests are welcome to use the spa’s facilities at no extra cost. It’s well worth making use of its hot thermal suite, vitality pool, saunas, steam and relaxation room, waterfall and lifestyle showers, 15 metre indoor pool and fitness studio, as a brief trip in England could cost a penny or two. To really spoil yourself, you can also choose from a list of treatments from facials to massages (from EUR 90).

On entering the spa, soft harmonies and the subtle aroma of sensual candles and oils fill the air, both enhancing the senses and calming the mind. Put your velvety soft white bath robe on as you walk through the rustic wooden doors and into another world entirely, where time has no feature and nothing in the world seems to matter. Darkness, worries and the stresses of frenetic lifestyles are left at the door. This is another realm entirely – money is no concern, time stops stills, fears whittle away and the stresses of your daily routine dissolve into oblivion. Here you forget everything. And it’s heavenly.

Cocooned within these granite tiled walls and underneath dimmed spot lights, you notice your pace slow down and your heartbeats relax. Ease yourself into the vitality pool where vibrations stimulate your body and a neck fountain massages the knots out of your back. The variety of showers all have different functions, from the sauna and steam room which sweat out your impurities to the ice fountain which closes your pores and cools your body down. All showers are designed to ease aching muscles and release tension and toxins from your body.

The relaxation room offers guests a chance to escape the outside world and recline on mechanised loungers in a beautifully tiled room. Separated by antique wooden screens, centred around an ornate fountain and dazzling skylight, this room portrays a Moroccan courtyard without the dark, seductive colours. Instead the brightly lit room is a rejuvenating refreshment after a soporific treatment or hypnotising waterfall.

Mar Menor’s indoor pool is certainly a feature to remember, lined with thousands of silvery blue tiles, it is almost a mosaic unto itself, luring the guest into the mysticism and majesty matching its lavish surroundings. Giant brass lanterns hang delicately above the still cool water giving the open room a magnetic yet spiritual glow.

ESPA’s aim is to envelop the guest in peace and empower them with strength and vitality. The harmonious ambiance of the Eastern royal design not only unwinds visitors but makes them feel suitably important.

The pampering doesn’t stop there though – hotel guests are free to use facilities at each of the seven resorts and can travel between them on Polaris’ free bus. Use of the other hotel’s swimming pools, golf courses, restaurants and indeed, spas are all available including recently opened, La Torre Golf Resort’s new Thai Spa and Wellness Zone.

It doesn’t have as many deluxe components as ESPA but with a state of the art gym, 25m heated indoor pool, a steam room, Swedish sauna as well as six oriental-themed treatment rooms, it definitely welcomes guests into complete submission. The Thai spa is complimented greatly with Far Eastern, Mediterranean and state of the art contemporary features. The dimly lit incensed rooms invite guests to journey to exotic lands and surrender all their aches and worries.

Polaris World’s spas are definitely a good reason to pop over to this Spanish dream location but like any special resort, there is always more than one excuse to go. Polaris’ golf courses, for instance, have been designed by famous golfer Jack Nicklaus and his team, making these greens some of the best in the world. Indeed, 59 of the world’s top 100 golf courses are Nicklaus Design, putting Murcia on the map for keen golfers.

Spa enthusiasts need not be dismayed. The resorts are not teeming with men in white sweaters and there’s not a whiff of snobbery in the fresh mountainous air. Both amateur and professional golf is played here, with the opportunity of having a short beginner’s lesson. Or if golf is not your thing, then you can simply soak in the crisp green grass against the backdrop of silver mountains whilst reclining by the pool.

The resorts themselves provide everything one could ask for; Polaris World has successfully manufactured little ‘towns’, with villas, town houses, street names, restaurants, schools, doctors, supermarkets, world-class spas and the mandatory Irish pubs, meaning there really is no need to venture elsewhere.

If you do fancy a bit of Spanish culture then the city of Murcia is only a twenty minute drive away. Narrow streets, tree-lined avenues with tables and chairs, cafes selling churros con cocoa, and old gothic buildings of rosa (pink) stone, plazas and central fountains, this city oozes Mediterranean charm felt with every relaxing stroll during siesta and every refreshing helado (ice cream). One beautiful feature is its baroque cathedral, grand yet unassuming. Its impressive statues juxtapose against cool limestone walls creating a suitably peaceful and spiritual ambiance.

The region of Murcia also runs along both the coast of Mar Menor and the Mediterranean offering guests the opportunity to dip their toes into more than one sea. Only fifteen minutes from the resorts, guests can relax upon one of the Med’s less trampled beaches, and explore unspoilt coves.

Murcia seems to have a whole lot of tricks up its sleeves; the best being that it is still unspoilt by British tourism. A visit here, even in the thick of summer, will challenge you to feel crowded. In fact, its true charm comes from being able to escape a British summer to a place of welcoming luxury, sociable hospitality and phenomenal views of exotic lemon groves within a two hour flight.

The reason why Polaris World resorts are so extraordinary is simply because, hidden in this little corner of Spain, you’d have never guessed they were here. Golden limestone hotels and Grecian white villas are scattered upon sandy hills like little oases of pure, humble pleasure allowing guests to simply kickback, relax and enjoy the finest foods and wines within exquisite scenery. And yet locked in gated enclosures, it is a camouflage that hides its luxurious treats and pampering spas well, allowing this ‘salad bowl’ to continue untouched, as it always has done; an unassuming terrain with some of the tastiest secrets in the world.

Travel Information:

Spain is one hour ahead of the UK and the currency is the Euro (€) where £1 = EUR 1.14. Spain’s capital is Madrid, a three and a half hour drive away from Murcia or an hour’s flight from Murcia’s Airport. Monarch Airways flies to Alicante, 45 minutes from Murcia’s Polaris World, from Manchester Airport from £52.99 one-way to £90.50 return. During the summer, Monarch also flies from Birmingham and London Gatwick. Monarch offers in-flight meals from £3.00 and extra-leg room seats can be booked for an additional £15 (www.monarch.co.uk).

Polaris World gives guests the opportunity to stay in Apartments, Townhouses, Villas or in one of its seven exclusive 5* InterContinental resorts. Renting an apartment for four people starts at EUR 650 a week. A stay at Polaris World’s La Torre Resort starts at EUR 99 prpn, sleeping two people until November (www.polarisworld.com).

Murcia is situated in the South-East of Spain, where temperatures reach a scorching 40˚C during the summer months. An area with over 300 days of sunshine and an annual average temperature of 21˚C, Murcia is the perfect location for a last-minute autumn break to experience the summer that in England, we never had. Indeed, Murcia offers a warm recluse at any time of the year and with ESPA’s luxurious spa at hand, there really is no reason not to visit (www.espaonline.com).

Words Natasha Al-Atassi

FOR THE COUNTLESS PEOPLE TRAVELING GUIDED BLINDLY BY THEIR STOMACHS, ALL ROADS IN FRANCE LEAD TO LYON. THOUGH PARIS IS THOUGHT TO BE THE FOOD CENTRE OF FRANCE, PROUD PARISIANS WHO JEALOUSLY KEEP WATCH OF THEIR CULINARY POSITION SOMETIMES EVEN VISIT THIS GASTRONOMIC CAPITAL JUST FOR A MEAL. HERE, FRANCE’S BEST FOODS COME TOGETHER IN A COSMIC COLLECTION OF SUCCULENT MEATS, FRESH PRODUCE AND CRISP CLEAN WINE MAKING A WEEKEND BREAK ONE OF INDULGENCE AS WELL AS A RELAXING RETREAT. FRANCE’S BIGGEST SECRET, LYON OFFERS THE BEST IN CULTURE, HISTORY AND BY ALL STANDARDS, THE FINEST OF FOOD – SO FINE THAT NOT EVEN THE RICHNESS AND EXCLUSIVITY OF MICHELLIN PARIS CAN COMPETE.

One reason for the city’s culinary excellence is its location. In the South-East of France, Lyon is blessed with the optimum produce. Quality ingredients from the surrounding areas pour into its markets and restaurants – poultry from Bresse, beef from the Charolais, fish from nearby rivers, fruit and vegetables from the farmlands and wines from Beaujolais and Cote du Rhone. This bountiful abundance creates excellent cooks.

Of course the best way to enjoy France’s succulent cuisine is dining-out in one of Lyon’s beautiful Renaissance buildings, spilling out onto narrow streets. Visit the popular medieval part of town, Vieux Lyon (‘Old Lyon’) for sociable bars and restaurants, including ‘bouchons’, or inns. Featuring traditional Lyonnaise cooking such as hearty local dishes like pork sausages or ‘andouillettes’, potatoes baked in creamy sauce and roast pork, you can really get to grips with rustic French cuisine. The emphasis in a ‘bouchon’ is not on haute cuisine but rather, a relaxed time and homely ambiance that comes naturally in this traditional setting.

To dive into Lyon’s finest and tastiest gastronomy, without paying an extravagant price, try one of Paul Bocuse’s 3* bistro restaurants Nord, Sud, Est or Ouest with their own specific themes. Brasserie Le Nord is the most popular place in Lyon for traditional Lyonnais cuisine. At Brasserie Le Sud, flavours head south with Mediterranean inspiration coming from southern France’s Provence to Tunisia or Morocco in North Africa. Brasserie de l’Est is a large, bustling place offering Pan-French cuisine and a noisy and animated ambiance that evokes the brasseries de gare of faraway Paris. Finally, the Brasserie de l’Ouest completely turns the tables on authentic French cooking and boasts some of the tastiest Californian Wild West food in France.

A fresh way to discover Lyon is to attend the festival that has made massive waves in the electronic music world.  Les Nuits Sonores was born in 2003 with little more than 15,000 visitors. Now the four-day event bears a crowd of more than 55,000, bringing to life many of Lyon’s emblematic buildings by choosing old industrial sites, concert halls, clubs and galleries as venues. The festival’s line-up gets more and more impressive every year, with this year hosting more than 250 artists, including some big names in electronic music such as Giles Peterson and Laurent Garnier.  The gigs are a unique insight into Lyonnais social culture, away from café lined promenades and baroque buildings.

Dates for next year’s festival fall between 12^th and 16^th May 2010, so be sure to book your tickets in advance. (nuits-sonores.com)

Lyon is arguably most famous for its beautiful Basilica de Notre Dame. Offering exquisite vistas of rolling hills, flowing rivers, bustling markets and of course, its beautifully kept, medieval city,  the view from the top of the Basilica really is the best way to see the region. Set in a dominant position overlooking the city, the energetic can enjoy a steep walk to the basilica. Alternatively, embark on a ride in the funicular, a cable railway (the ficelle, near the Cathedrale de Saint-Jean) up Fourviere Hill. From the terrace of the flamboyant white church, the beautiful city unfolds before you, cradled between two hills. You’ll see the Rhone and Saone rivers meandering through folds, forming the peninsula, Presque’ile, the very heart of the city.

At your feet, old terracotta-roofed houses are sprawled throughout Vieux Lyon. This district has been nicknamed ‘La Colline qui Travaille’ because many silk workshop mills were transplanted here in the 18^th Century from the Vieux Lyon area. In the middle distance, you will see the enormous parks and the newer sections of the Greater Lyon, punctuated by modern high-rises.

The best way to explore the area is to rent a bicycle. The service is called Velo’v and provides solid, comfortable bikes, available for anyone to use, 24 hours a day, seven days a week. You can find them at locations all over Lyon. There are 340 Velo’v stations, so when you are done with your bike, you can drop it off at any of their spots. The service promotes greater mobility and better health at a sweet cheap rate (from €1 between 30 to 90 minutes and €2 each hour thereafter.) (velov.grandlyon.com)

One of the best places to explore on wheels is the old and famous and famous ‘Parc de la Tete d’Or’ or ‘The Golden Head Park’. A huge park, holding tens of thousands of roses on its roserarie and 1800 species of alpine plants, it is named after a story saying that a golden head of Christ buried there. The park also possesses a reservoir, botanical garden, a zoo, canals and outdoor gardens; plenty to keep you entertained on a cool autumn afternoon. (parc-tete-dor.com)

Another exhibit not to miss is the superb and ultramodern Musee d’art contemporain de Lyon (mac-lyon.com), situated in ‘La Cite Internationale’ that counts the Interpol headquarters building. (cite-internationale-lyon.fr)

If you’re thinking of a stay during frosty winter, visit Lyon at the beginning of December when over 70 sites are illuminated for public enjoyment. The ‘Fete des Lumieres’ takes place for four days every year. This ‘festival of light’, which first occurred 150 years ago, originally had religious connotations with residents placing candles in their windows to thank the Virgin Mary for saving them from the plague. Now, the popular festival is become a cultural spectacle, seeing around 4 million visitors flock the area, from all over France and Europe. (lumieres.lyon.fr)

For a real foodie holiday, indulge in a day-trip to Annecy, in the French region of Haute-Savoie (en.annecy.eu).  Here, exceptionally pretty open-air markets, a pride of the city, sell locally produced creamy soft and stenchy cheeses as well as an abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables. Only a 30 minute bus ride from Lyon, the beautiful countryside offers a variety of activities including boat trips on Lake Annecy, the second largest lake in France, or a trip to Palase de l’sle, a castle turned into a prison. One of the most photographed monuments in France, the castle and indeed, the whole area are well worth a visit. (annecy-croisieres.com).

Only 470 km from Paris and the second largest city in France, Lyon is deservedly the gastronomical capital of France. Unscathed by tourism, it has been allowed to continue farming, producing, and cooking traditional, hearty and rustic cuisines that bear no real comparison with other fancy h’orderves, snails or frogs’ legs. Succulent meat, fresh vegetables, the tastiest of stews, sauces and roasts, this is French country food at its best and cuisine that normally gets unnoticed.

And this time-honored nature and resistance to fashionable fare is what makes Lyon so charming and so damn delicious. Not only is it acclaimed for its colourful and warming menus, but Lyon is loaded with astonishing sites. Forgotten upon the tourists’ map, it is also delightfully quiet; free from the tirade of noisy tourists, it is as pristinely old-fashioned as it has always been. Bursting with historical elegance, pride, understated grace and truly excellent food and wine, if you’re lucky enough to visit Lyon it is a place you definitely won’t want to share.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Lyon is located in the South-East of France. It is one hour ahead of the UK and the currency is the Euro (£1 = €1.14).

Easyjet flies to Lyon Saint-Exupery Airport daily from London Gatwick and Stansted Airports. Check www.easyjet.com frequently for some good deals.

You can also take the train from Paris or Marseille that arrive at Lyon-Part-Dieu, Lyon Perrache or Lyon Saint-Exupery. They take two hours from Paris, and one and a half from Marseille. Visit www.tgv.co.uk for more information and timetables.

WHERE TO STAY

There are plenty of hotels to choose from in Lyon but for an inexpensive and comfortable stay, book a room at the respectable Mercure Lyon Grand Hotel Saxe Lafayette, 29 rue de Bonnel 69003, Lyon.

Right in the heart of the city, it is in an ideal location, just a 10 minute walk from Vieux Lyon, the nearby metro and a wide range of restaurants and brasseries. Prices satart from £81 prpn based on two sharing.

Visit www.accorhotels.com for more information.

WHERE TO EAT

Paul Bocuse’s 3* bistro restaurants Nord, Sud, Est or Ouest (www.nordsudbrasseries.com)

Brasserie de Le Nord, 18 rue Neuve

Brasserie Le Sud, Place Antonin Poncet,

Brasserie de l’Est, 14 Place Jules-Ferry

Brasserie de l’Ouest, 1 Quai du Commerce

For a complete and in-depth guide to Lyon, visit en.lyon-france.com or franceguide.com

Words and images Vincent Bernier

If there’s one date every fashion lover on earth will be marking in their diary this year, it’ll be the 10

International Editions of Vogue magazine are joining forced with department stores, boutiques, designers and high street chains worldwide to celebrate fashion. The UK is top of the list when it comes to style capitals, with a vibrant fashion scene and talented young designers. Globally renowned for its eclectic style, London is one of the thirteen cities taking part in the event. Others include New York, Paris, Milan, Tokyo, Moscow and New Delhi.

Vogue publisher Conde Nast has decided to host the evening to re-inject the fun back into fashion and persuade shoppers to indulge in some serious retail therapy in a bid to fight back against the flailing economy. Hundreds of stores across the capital will be offering free champagne, big discounts and promotions on their wares. Alexander McQueen, Topshop, Prada, H&M, Gucci, Selfridges, Agent Provocateur and Marks & Spencer are just a few of the well-known brands taking part in the city’s biggest shopping event in history.

Designers and celebrities will also be in attendance for meet-and-greets, and the Vogue team will be on hand to provide style advice, makeovers and fashion workshops. Live music and fashion shows are also planned.  Stores in Regent Street, Oxford Street and Bond Street will be staying open as late as midnight especially for the occasion. The September edition of Vogue features ‘star buys’ that 73 of the participating stores have picked out especially for the night, including coveted items such as a MaxMara coat, so visitors have an idea of the bargains that await them.

As well as encouraging shoppers to part with their cash, the event is also seeking to raise money for charity. Vogue has designed a limited edition T-shirt, which will be available on the night only to commemorate Fashion’s Night Out. London stores will be offering this T-shirt to all present and 100 per cent of the profits made from T-shirt sales will be donated to Crisis, the UK homeless charity.

Alexandra Shulman, editor of British Vogue, said, “This worldwide activity is to remind us all that fashion is to be enjoyed and to mark the contribution that the shopping environment makes to all our lives.  We’re delighted to be in a position at Vogue to undertake this enterprise and to bring retailers and shoppers together in central London for this unprecedented feel-good occasion.  In these difficult economic times we want to reward the spirit of enterprise and imagination that the fashion industry encapsulates.”

Words Kay Weston

THEFASHIONISTAHASSPOKEN.BLOGSPOT.COM

Paradise. Pure unadulterated Paradise. If the Garden of Eden was on a beach, this would be it. Islands of ice white sand, abandoned rainforest, uninhabited lagoons and crystal clear waters that stretch as far as the eye can see. Untouched and exquisite, where man’s steps create no lasting print in the sand and no voices echo through the trees. A deserted island which only you have discovered. Bliss. Pure bliss. When, in the past, people have said they have seen paradise I know now that they were lying. Because they hadn’t been here. They haven’t been to the Perhentians.

There are many islands we associate with Paradise in the world but never have I been to a place like this; where nature has been left so unharmed that a wild beauty roams freely through the tree tops and lies seductively on the beach.

‘This is what Thailand was like before all the tourists invaded,’ people often told me. But, having been to Thailand, I’m not sure if they’re entirely accurate. This is Thailand before… fake longboats, haggard snorkelling trips and the familiar smell of alcohol and weed; this is Thailand before… boats ever made it across the shore; this is Thailand before…anyone ever stepped foot on the islands. This may never have been Thailand at all. But this is a nearby secret. So near it makes you wonder why so many people visit Thailand instead, but then I’m not complaining because it’s a secret I’m happy to keep from young party goers, and rich resort companies. For the Perhentian Islands, locked in a cove in the South China Sea, this…is Malaysia.

Twenty-five kilometres off the east coast of Malaysia’s peninsular, rests two little gems: Perhentian Besar and Perhentian Kecil; two remote deserted islands with only a handful of residents who know better than to share their secret with the rest of the world. Only 523 kilometres away rests the party island of Thailand’s Kho Phagnan with its monthly full moon party and thousands of hedonistic teenagers. These islands are chaste by comparison and are more beautiful for it.

In Malay, Perhentian means ‘Place to stop’. This is exactly what you must do here. Stop. Stay. And unwind.

Everything here is almost magical – a place so fine you couldn’t even imagine it. Until the late 1980s, the Perhentian Islands were a well-kept secret but as the popularity of the Thai islands shot up, word has slowly spread about the Perhentians. They are the first choice destination on Malaysia’s East Coast but remain as deliciously discrete as they have always been.

Perhentian Besar is the bigger of the two islands and most popular among resort-goers. Residents have managed to restrict the number of resorts on the island so hotels are far and few between. Instead, rustic chalets and wooden huts are the usual accommodation on the Perhentians, keeping things tastefully simple and island-friendly.

This is especially the case for Perhentian Kecil. Popular amongst the younger twenty-, and thirty-something’s, accommodation is basic but you’ll find the atmosophere rich with warmth; sociable, and undeniably genuine. Budget wooden cabins border the coastline of Kecil’s two beautiful beaches, Long Beach (Pasir Panjang) and Coral Bay (Teluk Aur), whilst mid-range chalets rest camouflaged further up in the trees.

Everything here is pretty minimal: electricity is limited, the water supply is held in tanks, and only a couple of shops-cum-restaurants-cum-internet cafes-cum-music spots exist but for a short stay, this is all you need. At the same time, the ‘no-thrills’ treatment is a refreshing change from our usual surplus choice and excessiveness making this sparseness not bare and basic, but deliciously liberating.

And simplicity in the Perhentians really is the key. The strict protection over the island’s nature has prevented developers constructing in the centre of the islands, meaning that their interiors are nearly entirely uninhabited jungle. This is what makes them so exceptional. The only buildings are the few wooden A-Frames scattered on the islands’ periphery and one or two hotels. Everything else is pure rainforest, which makes the Perhentians as damn close to Eden as conceivably possible.

There are no roads on the islands, no cars or motorbikes, no traffic and no pollution. Travellers wanting to get from one beach to another can climb between the curtain of jungle through a couple of footpaths or use the most of common form of transport here and arguably the easiest, the water taxi. Instantly accessible from any beach, water taxis are wooden speed boats that for a reasonable price, can take you to any cove, any beach, or any lagoon your heart desires.

Kecil’s two popular beaches, Long Beach and Coral Bay contrast significantly to each other but both offer the visitor uncontaminated beaches, seclusion and heavenly sunshine. Coral Bay is a little smaller and boasts spectacular views of the sunset. Long Beach provides a greater selection of restaurants but most invitingly, a long stretch of glossy fine sand. The island is so small that you can easily visit the other and I recommend attempting the short twenty minute walk through the rainforest for its beautiful foilage, and indeed, as water taxis overcharge heavily for this short trip.

Treks over the leafy hilltop will also bring you closer to Kecil’s unmatched flora and fauna as well as give you the opportunity to get a glimpse of Malaysia’s unique wildlife. If you’re lucky, you might spot mouse deer, fruit bats, flying foxes and of course, monkeys, monkeys, monkeys. You will almost certainly find Malaysia’s famous Monitor Lizard. The reptile measures nearly 1.5 m in length and can be found anywhere, on forest paths, near your chalet or slowly walking along the beach. It can be a rather strange experience walking beside the crocodile-like creature but one that most certainly brings you closer to Malaysia’s exotic nature.

If it’s absorbing yourself in wildlife that interests you then the Perhentians should be on top of your places to visit. Renowned as one of the best scuba diving sites in the world, it boasts an abundance of colourful coral and a huge variety of magnificent exotic fish (www.turtlebaydivers.com). For the less adventurous, the small diving centres also offer snorkelling trips that can last from half an hour to a whole day. To get the most out of Malaysia’s underwater paradise, the longer trips are definitely recommended and can be found for as little as 40RM (£8), including all use of snorkelling equipment. After just five minutes on the boat, you won’t believe your eyes. The sea becomes so incredibly clear that even without sinking yourself into the water you’ll be able to see the countless shoals of fish bustling past each other.

Dunking into the sea you become immersed in an entirely different world altogether. Barracuda, needlefish, clown fish are just a few of the millions of creatures you will spot flipping around. The water sparkles with such clarity making visits from the unknown marginally less shocking than possibly could have been. Lost in a kingdom of coral mountains, starfish, crabs, sea urchins and sea cucumbers, don’t be surprised to get a couple of larger visitors too.

Indeed, splashing around carefree with my Little Mermaid goggles firmly attached I managed to spot not one, but three, Bumphead Parrot fish swimming towards me. It may not sound like much but measuring 1.3m in length they are almost as long as me. Such elusive creatures, it was a truly phenomenal experience to be welcomed into their own private world of turquoise colours and silent fairytales.

But if spotting mysterious creatures of the deep lagoon tickles your fancy then you will almost certainly enjoy catching a glimpse of two of South China Sea’s greatest inhabitants: the giant turtle and, more alarmingly, the black tip reef shark. Jumping into the deeper waters it was only when its sparkling clearness turned eerily dark and shadows of toothed figures began to encircle us that I realised the impact of my hasty decision to go looking for the world’s most deadly fish. In reality, Perhentian’s sharks are not dangerous creatures. Feeding mainly on small reef fish, they show no interest in pasty tourists and swimming among them is a relatively safe activity. Nevertheless, spotting the Great White’s cousin is rather spooky and its entire 2m length an imposing presence.

The giant turtles were again an extraordinary experience. Slipping into bottomless cloudy waters, the emptiness and mystery of these hidden depths are amplified when these friendly creatures slowly float past you in a serene hypnotic fashion.

A protected marine park, the Perhentian Islands most certainly have the best snorkelling opportunities I had ever practised. However, even if diving into the cool blue isn’t your thing, lying on isolated beaches with velvet sands softly slipping between your toes most probably will be.

Taking a private boat taxi to isolated coves and undiscovered lagoons is the perfect way to unwind; an exclusive beach experience and a step closer to that ‘deserted tropical island’ dream. Long beaches with stretches of sheer narrow waters contrast with deeper emerald coves and intense illuminating turquoise lagoons, so striking that only when you come here do you realise that that word ‘turquoise’ has been so wrongly used in all cases before. Only here, does the word truly come to life; where in one view, deep sapphires melt into bright cobalt slipping softly upon the shore as lucent waters.

The silence here is exceptional bliss. On the secluded coves, you can literally have the beach all to yourself; perfect for a romantic trip or a peaceful getaway. Each island remains so unspoiled and so remarkably natural that it can sometimes feel as though, with each footprint delicately washed away, no one had stepped on this shore before. And as your prints sink into the silky sand, the cove will remain as natural and untainted as when you first arrived.

This unspoiled air that softly envelops the Perhentians alludes to some sort of majesty; something so pure and innocently charming that it almost feels like an illusion. After all, how has it possibly escaped the prying pollution of mass tourism and commercialisation for all this time?

The answer lies with its people. The very few inhabitants of the Perhentians protect their tropical paradise just as you would if you lived here. Though they could benefit from the growth of tourism, they choose to preserve their corner of the world and keep it just as it is: a pure taste of heaven.  For this reason they have also enforced a strict alcohol ban on the islands, owing to their Muslim religion.

This means that bars and restaurants are not allowed to serve or sell alcohol in any of their premises. Though this may put off some excitable travellers, they are probably the ones you wouldn’t want in this sweet paradise anyway. That’s not to say that the atmosphere here isn’t electric. Long Beach, Kecil’s main strip, offers a small but plentiful selection of alcohol-free restaurants, and the evening comes alive as the woody smell of barbecue wisps through the salty air and guitars are strummed poetically around log fires. When the soft buzz of music and chatter drifts along the beach, the charm of the island comes alive; its ease and warmness openly embracing strangers like us.

This laidback atmosphere is what makes the islands so unique and its abstinence is a refreshing resolution to the regular flame-throwing, dance music, boozy island hops.

Certainly, it is probably its alcohol-free policy that has prevented it from becoming soiled by drunk and hedonistic backpackers. When people visit the Perhentians they do so for its incomparable magnetism; its incredible wildlife and its graceful charisma. With no alcohol, it remains chilled and relaxed, and sincerely beautiful.

It may even be reminiscent of a Thailand that once was. But for us now, the Perhentians are a gem, a true gift of nature with its tropical beaches under a canopy of thick, untamed forest. A retreat we’d never want to leave.

A discreet glimpse into Paradise that we are privileged to see. A hideaway that we must not abuse and a secret we can only whisper so that not everyone hears.

A place to stop, it says. A place to stop indeed.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Malaysia is eight hours ahead of England (GMT). Currency is the Malaysian Ringgit (£1 = 5.90 MYR) where a meal costs around 10MYR and a coffee from 3-5MYR. Malaysia’s capital is Kuala Lumpur (KL); flights depart daily from London Heathrow to KL from £154 one way (www.airasia.com) and takes 12 hours.

To reach the Perhentians, you can take a short one hour flight from KL to Johar Bharu for 39RM (£6.50) each way through Asia’s budget airline, AirAsia (www.airasia.com). From here you can find a taxi (one way 65RM= £11) to the port of Kuala Besut, where you take a boat to the Perhentians.

Alternatively, overnight coaches leave KL daily direct for Kuala Besut and take 9 hours, reaching the port in time to catch the first boat to the islands. The return bus journey costs 80RM (£13.50).

Speed boats leave Kuala Besut several times a day for the beach of your choice and takes approximately 30 minutes to reach the islands. The boat tickets can be bought at Kuala Besut and costs 70RM return (£12).

Temperatures in the Perhentians remain high throughout the year (21–32˚C) but heavy rains occur during the Monsoon season (November to February) when the islands virtually shut down. Peak season is between July and August; prices rise during this busy time and it is advisable to make your bookings in advance.

Life on the islands remain very simple; it has a strong religious influence so there is no permitted alcohol nor topless bathing but the hospitality of the islanders is always warm and welcoming. There are no cash machines on either of the islands nor in Kuala Besut so it is advised to take your cash out before you depart for the Perhentians and always plan ahead.

The Perhentians may be isolated and simplistic but it is rich in nature and atmosphere. Each panoramic sea view exudes a touch of tropical bliss that you could only ever find on a Paradise island, such as this.

For more information visit: www.perhentian.com/my

Words and images Natasha Al-Atassi