CLASSIC COLOGNE, A SCENT OF LUXURY

ASKING THOSE WHO’VE BEEN TO COLOGNE WHAT THEY REMEMBER FROM IT WILL OFTEN BRING UP AN ASSORTMENT OF REPLIES, FOR IN THIS SMALL CITY BURSTING WITH STORIES, THERE REALLY IS AN AWFUL LOT TO SEE AND DO. AGENT2 DISCOVERS, IN BETWEEN CLIMBING GOTHIC CATHEDRALS AND SHOPPING IN THE NEW QUARTER, THAT COLOGNE ISN’T JUST YOUR AVERAGE GERMAN TOWN. RIDDLED WITH ANCIENT ARCHITECTURE, WARTIME RUINS AND 18^THC BUILDINGS, IT IS THE ONE OF THE FINEST CATALOGUES OF HISTORY GERMANY HAS TO OFFER.

Cologne, or Köln, as it is known in Germany, is nestled in West Germany, only an hour away from Brussels by train. One of the most popular tourist destinations in Germany, it is home to just one million inhabitants, making it a refreshing break from the hustle of larger European cities.

However, whether you arrive by train, plane or boat, the first thing that will strike you as you enter the city won’t be its quiet cobbled streets or its famous river Rhine. I guarantee when your first breath is stolen, it’ll be upon seeing its imposing and impressive Cathedral.

A huge black-stone building with a ashy grey steeple stretching high into the foggy sky, the Cathedral holds historical tales that have lasted for centuries.

Now a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site, six million visitors come every year to see Germany’s largest Cathedral, which, at 45 metres tall, overlooks the rest of the city. Taking over 600 years to build, its foundations were first laid down in 1248 but it wasn’t completed until 1880, when it became the tallest building in the world. Nine years later, it lost this title to the Eiffel Tower, at 300 metres tall.

The gothic architecture of the church is itself outstanding – black stone carved into a variety of biblical figures stand above the entrance door, its high arched ceiling offers an arresting presence and its colourful stain glass windows stretch nearly its entire height. Mosaics are scattered on the floor and original 13^thC features can be found throughout. The tombs that circle the perimeter of the cathedral, as well as the crypt that rests underneath it, lend themselves rather well to the quiet, eerie atmosphere.

However, the reason why Cologne’s Cathedral is so significant isn’t really to do with its design, nor its impressive longevity. Within this heavily Catholic city, lay some of the most precious remains of its biblical heritage, for the Cathedral has housed the golden shrine of the Three Magi (Three Wise Men) since 1164. Pilgrims flock to Cologne every year on 6 January when the shrine is opened, to see their remains.

The only building in Cologne not to be bombed during WW2, the Cathedral has huge significance to its survivors and its people.

Our guide, André Fischer told us: “It’s impossible to describe the connection Cologners have to this church. It is part of us. It is our identity.”

The Cathedral isn’t the oldest thing about Cologne though. And it only took a short walk to realise what sort of history this city holds. A short stroll from the Cathedral we ambled across what looked like some old building debris, surrounded by fence and scaffolding. What we had actually stumbled across were the authentic ruins of Cologne’s Roman rule.  One of the oldest cities in the world (dating as far back as 58BC), Cologne houses some of the best preserved Roman ruins outside of Rome. Built using these ancient foundations, beneath Cologne’s modern and medieval buildings lays an entire Roman city.

One of the best places to experience its Roman history is to visit the Roman-Germanic Museum (5 EUR for adults), which centres round a huge Dionysus mosaic, uncovered during the Second World War. The museum is home to huge ruins such as tombstones and small remnants that have been discovered throughout the years including coins, weapons, tools and the largest collection of Roman glassware in the world. All these remains have helped uncover the vast history of this West German city, and tell of its prominence in the Ancient World.

The Prätorium (2.50 EUR for adults) is another place not to miss if you’re keen on your Ancient History. Discovered in the World War Two rubble, the prätorium was once home to the city’s Governor and was one of the largest buildings in Cologne during Roman times. The building foundations have remained perfectly in tact aside from a deep gash through one its walls: a scar from a 4^thC earthquake. The walls, its underground heating system, and octagon rooms are all otherwise in perfect condition and give a brilliant insight into the life and history of this Roman province.

In the same visit, you can explore over 100 metres of Ancient canal sewage tunnels from 50AD, which are still in pristine condition.

One of the best ways to examine Cologne’s vast and varied history is to have a stroll through its Old Town (Altstadt). Though most of Cologne was destroyed during WW2, few buildings within this medieval quarter remained. Walk along its cobbled streets and through its sparse empty squares and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of this quiet part of the city. The narrow side streets are the best place to experience Cologne’s traditional beer holes and try its authentic cuisine. The Rhine promenade sprawling with colourful houses, picturesque plazas and lonesome benches add a special character to Cologne, giving a taste of what this beautiful city was like pre-1942.

Indeed, the story of the Second World War isn’t forgotten within this once-walled city. Its tight-knit community together with its rich heritage makes Cologners proud to be Cologners. But when the war broke out, their pride and indeed, their city was shattered. Whereas in 1939 there were 750,000 residents in Cologne, by 1945, there were only 42,000.

Since then though, Cologne has successfully moved on: uncovering magnificent ancient ruins, restoring medieval streets and constructing a modern city centre around its fragile foundations in the ‘Rheinauhafen’, the new quarter. Home to some of the most popular shopping areas in Europe, the places to visit are Hohe Straß for department stores and Breite Straße for boutique shops. In recent years, the Belgian Quarter has become a thriving area for vintage clothes and trendy accessories.

Despite its turbulent past, Cologne has managed to salvage some of its major ruins and reinvent itself, creating a city full of stories, memories and character, that’s a true pleasure to visit.

Walking through its promenades as the splendid Cathedral is lit up on a cold wintry night, there’s a buzz that runs through the city; a reminder that every step taken is like a walkway through history.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Cologne is one hour ahead of the UK (GMT) and the currency is the EUR where £1=1.15 EUR. Visit during the six-day holiday of Carnival (Feb 11 - 17) where the streets come alive with parades, events and shows, and Cologners dress in colourful costumes. Visit www.koelntourismus.com for more information.

HOW TO GET THERE

German Wings fly to Cologne/Bonn Airport from London Stansted and have recently launched a new route from Manchester airport, flying five times per week. Flights take 1h 15 minutes. Prices start from £13.99 and can be booked at www.germanwings.com or by calling +44 (0)906 294 1918.

WHERE TO STAY

Excelsior Hotel Ernst +49 (0)221 2701 / www.excelsior-hotel-ernst.de)

Just 200 metres away from the Cologne’s main station and 20 metres from the Cathederal, this 5* hotel has everything you could require. As well as its proximity to the old quarter, Excelsior also boasts excellent modern suites, gym, spa and plenty of places to wine and dine including gourmet restaurant Hanse Stube, Piano Bar and the Riesling Lounge where guests can enjoy wine tasting sessions of Germany’s own wine variety, the Riesling. Double rooms start from 270EUR prpn.

CHECK OUT OUR GREAT EXCELSIOR “CITY ESCAPE” READER OFFER HERE.

OTHER PLACES TO VISIT

FARINA Fragrance Museum Find out the interesting story behind the world’s oldest fragrance company, Eau de Cologne. Follow the narrative tour by a ‘Rokoko parfumeur’ telling the tale of its creation in 1709 and its popularity among huge historical figures including Napoleon.

Lindt Chocolate Factory (7.50 EUR) Learn the history of chocolate-making, the branding of Lindt and try some chocolate for yourself.

Carnival Museum Museum of Cologne’s infamous Carnival showcasing masks, costumes and past videos where you can learn all about the city’s much-loved celebration.

WHERE TO EAT

Früh A traditional micro-brewery hosting Cologne’s famous brew, Kölsch and serving some of Germany’s traditional cuisine. Try the Rheinischer Sauerbuten (marinated beef with dumplings and red cabbage) for 13.95 EUR.

Taku, Excelsior Hotel An Asian restaurant in the 5* hotel serving quality meals from Japan, Thailand and Vietnam.

Words Natasha Al-Atassi

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BRITTANY BRINGS MUSIC TO OUR EARS

A SHORT WAY FROM THE BRITISH COAST LIES ONE OF FRANCE’S MOST INTERESTING REGIONS, DRAWING VISITORS WITH ITS WONDERFUL COASTLINE, ATTRACTIVE TOWNS AND GREAT FOOD. AGENT2 CROSSES THE CHANNEL TO DISCOVER THE CHARM OF BRITTANY, A UNIQUE REGION RICH IN HISTORY AND BEAUTY.

I didn’t know much about this part of France, but I soon found out there’s more to it than just Asterix the Gaul.

As I set foot in Rennes, the city didn’t first strike me as a place of cultural and social ferment that I had expected from its pride and resistance to power, much like Asterix’s adventures. Its quiet streets, timber-framed houses and slow pace convinced me that the renowned local passionate temperament was just a saying.

However, I soon reconsidered. After attending the music festival the city hosts every December, Les Transmusicales, I saw first-hand the passion and life this region has to offer.

Les Transmusicales is an annual showcase of incredible new musical trends and talents. With a beer in hand, I ventured inside the huge hangars of the Parc Expo.

For four days a year, Rennes becomes the European capital of music: artists from all over the globe come to town to perform in front of  30,000 strong crowd.

New trends in music are offered all night long for a marathon that explores many genres. I danced to the songs from Jamaican artist Terry Lynn, I enjoyed the dark and sometimes unsettling beats of Fever Ray, the amazingly talented BLK JKS and the mind-blowing electro-reggae of Major Lazer. After my second night at Les Trans, Rennes already showed much more character than I thought it ever could.

My ears still burning from the concerts, the following morning I set out to discover the city. A big part of the old town was devastated in a fire in 1720, but it’s still easy to imagine what Rennes must have looked like if its timber-framed houses were still there amongst its bright colours and tiny alleys.

But the beating heart of Rennes is in its squares. The elegant Place de la Republique is a perfect starting point to visit the city. Just make sure you don’t spend all of your time shopping: the famous storeGaleries Lafayettes is here, and the streets all around are full of boutiques.

Walking for a few minutes along streets lined with nice houses and funny restaurant signs, I found myself in front of the imposing neoclassical silhouette of the Cathédrale Saint Pierre. Nearby is Place des Lices, which hosts a lively and noisy market every Saturday, the second biggest in France. It is crammed with locals stocking up on oysters, mouth-watering cheese and freshly baked bread.

The busy Place Saint-Anne is dominated by the Palais du Parlament de Bretagne, which was seriously damanged by a fire in 1994, after a violent demonstration by local fishermen. In front of the Parlament there were many stalls selling delicious local food and I challenge you toresist the temptation of  crêpes avec chocolat.

Foodies won’t be disappointed: Rennes is dotted with charming restaurants offering ample opportunity to savour the local cuisine and take in the atmosphere of this peculiar city.

Less than one hour north of the city is the Emerald Coast. Its rugged and windy cliffs overlook gulfs with cobalt blue water, while the waves crash on rocks and lighthouses appear on the horizon. Clouds travel fast, and rainbows colour the sky.

A visit to the village is a must; walking along the harbour you can see the evanescent silhouette of Mont St-Michel. When the sun is not shining, everything seems to romantically seep into black and white.

The real gem of the coastal area is Saint Malo, an elegant walled city.

Its past is one of pirates, sailors and privateers, and walking on the ramparts around the town centre, the wind blowing fiercely, I contemplated the forts and rocks dotting the sea all around. The sun was setting, making the buildings shine like gold.

As I recall my time there, I understand that the warm and welcoming people, jaw-dropping panoramas and rich heritage of Brittany are not only enough to make me want to come back, but also to realize why Asterix was so determined to keep Rome’s hands off it.

WHERE TO STAY

Located a few steps away from Rennes’s train station, Hotel Astrid is a great place to stay. For EUR 55 prpn, it’s only a few minutes away from the city centre. Rooms are simple, quiet and clean. The hall and the breakfast room are very well-decorated, and having a warm baguette with jam in a stylish room is the perfect way to start your day.

WHAT TO DO

VISIT THE LITTLE OYSTER MARKET IN CANCALE

For breath-taking views of Mont Saint-Michel and to snap a picture of a site of oyster harvesting, walk to this tiny market at the end of Cancale’s seafront.

THE MEDIEVAL TOWN OF DINAN

Discover the ancient charm of this little village. Its port, on the river, has great views on the woods and hills around, an old stone bridge and a Roman aqueduct.

HAVE A COFFEE IN SAINT MALO

Le Café du coin d’en bas de la rue du bout de la ville d’en face du port Le Java, 3 Rue Saint Barbe, is an unusual and eccentric place, where stools are swings, the toilet is hidden in a wooden booth and thousands of porcelain dolls, puppets, pictures and stuffed animals make customers’ heads spin. You’ll barely know what you are drinking, too busy looking around. Which is a pity, because the coffee is actually really good.

HOW TO GET THERE

Ryanair flies from London Stansted to Dinard in one hour. Prices vary but good offers can be found at ryanair.com.

Flybe flies to Rennes directly from Southampton, and from Manchester, Edinburgh, Exeter, Belfast and Newcastle connecting in Southampton.

For more information visit brittanytourism.com

Words and images Roberto Priolo

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TOMORROW IN A YEAR – THE KNIFE

A BIRD SINGING, THE RAIN FALLING ON LEAVES, THE WIND CARESSING BUSHES AND BRANCHES ARE SOUNDS AND MUSIC OF NATURE AND THE KNIFE WITH MT. SIMS AND PLANNINGTOROCK HAVE CHANNELED THESE MELODIES IN THE ELECTRONIC OPERA “TOMORROW, IN A YEAR”.

Through the centuries nature has inspired many poets, painters, writers and musicians, who have tried to express the beauty, strength and complexity of the world around them. But these guys have gone beyond.

The project was proposed by the Danish performance group Hotel Pro Forma who wanted to take on stage Darwin’s “On The Origin Of The Species” and his researches about nature and wildlife.

The Knife were the first to be contacted and they then decided to let Mt. Sims and Planningtorock take part in the realization of this innovative work.

The result is an electronic opera that combines artificial sounds and field recordings. Olof Dreijer (The Knife) went in fact to the Amazon and Iceland to find inspiration and to record real sounds from wild nature.

He says: “At first it was very difficult as we really didn’t know anything about opera. But after some studying, and just getting used to opera’s essence of pretentious and dramatic gestures, I found that there is a lot to learn and play with. In fact, our ignorance gave us a positive respectless approach to making opera. It took me about a year to become emotionally moved by an opera singer and now I really do. I really like the basic theatrical values of opera and the easy way it brings forward a narrative. We’ve approached this before in The Knife but never in such a clear way.”

15 tracks compose the melodic world of Tomorrow, In A Year: a wonderful, dreaming but dangerous world in which the mystery of unknown nature but also the surprise of discovering new animal and plant species are described.

An opera singer, a pop singer and an actor also enrich the performance, all this accompanied by light projections.

The show is a real travel in a new world seen through Darwin’s eyes and it changes as fast as life and nature do. During the first part single elements are introduced, then they gather and merge becoming a whole before changing again in something new and undiscovered.

Ralf Richardt Strøbech is the co-director with Kirsten Dehlholm. He explains, “Time forms our lives, gives our existence meaning and populates the globe. Generations, eons and millions of years create the new and eradicate existences. Nature selects, invites and dares everything without limitation.”

Everything changes. Today, tomorrow, in a year, forever. Things develop, mutate and so do we.

theknife.net

hotelproforma.dk

rabidrecords.com/tomorrowinayear

Words Luca Russo

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SHARM EL-’CHIC’ – THE OTHER SIDE OF EGYPT

FAMOUS FRENCH CAPTAIN JEAN-JACQUES COUSTEAU HAS WRITTEN ONCE: “THE RED SEA IS A PASSAGE OF WONDERS; THE HAPPIEST HOURS OF MY DIVING EXPERIENCE WERE SPENT HERE”.

AGENT2 ventures to Egypt to discover whether Cousteau was right and explores the other wonders that Sharm el-Sheikh has to offer, beyond its pristine beaches and priceless diving.

Indeed, these words would be echoed by anybody who has the chance to spend some time in this astonishing region of the globe. In fact, few places in the world offer divers the chance to discover the unspoiled beauty of the ocean bed as Egypt does.

Located on the east shore at the southernmost tip of the Sinai Peninsula, and with a consistent tropical climate and 60km of sandy beaches, Sharm el-Sheikh has become the leading tourist spot in Sinai and an ultra modern Mecca for divers.

Now developed into a luxury holiday complex, it has become treasured by divers and sun-lovers across the globe. Famous hotels that share its beautiful bays include Marriott, Hilton, Hyatt, Ritz Carlton and the Four Seasons but behind these high-rises, lie Sharm’s endearing secrets: that it still has some of the best diving spots in all the Red Sea.

A great way to start exploring the area is to dive to the amazing reefs of the National Park of Ras Muhammad. Created in 1983 to protect coral reefs and the fragile environment, this marine park boasts corals brighter than anywhere I have ever seen before.

In this ocean of cobalt blue and feeling utterly disconnected, it’s not hard to see why this is one of the world’s most famous dive sites.

For those who haven’t tried it, scuba diving is like visiting another planet. In the majestic Ras Mohammed National Park, the landscape of fluttering reef walls and pinnacles seemed as unfamiliar as the canyons of Mars. The fish are weird in both colour and shape; parrotfish with their beaklike lips, goatfish sporting forked beards, and unicornfish that spar and horn-joust like the mythic beast.

I could have spent hours swimming there, in silence, away from the noisy city. Even though I eventually climb back up to the yacht, I knew that my time spent in that underwater palace would remain cherished memories.

As well as excellent diving, Sharm is close enough to the South Sinai desert that you can enjoy the sumptuous dunes with no problem. Many local and international tour operators include daily excursions including camel rides and jeep safaris.

After enjoying everything about my snorkeling experience, I went to the dryness of the Sinai. Throughout our journey to the deep desert, I was fascinated by the tribes of nomads, called Bedouins, who seemed able to live in the arid inhospitality of the desert.

They have adapted themselves brilliantly over the years to desert life, even though I can imagine how prettier and more romantic the sight of them must have been a couple of generation ago – with no piles of rubbish, no 4-wheel drives and no TV.

One thing that has survived ‘the progress of the western world’ is the beautiful bond between Bedouins and their camels. It is still the Bedouin’s constant companion. He drinks its milk; he feasts on its flesh; he covers himself with its skin; he makes his tent of its hair. Its dung is used as fuel. It is his shelter in the cold winter nights and protector against sandstorms. It is the special gift of Allah: Ata’ Allah.

The camel has now predominantly been exchanged for the 4-wheel-drive, but they still play an important part. Trained racing and carrying tourists on camel treks, they assist the Bedouin in becoming part of Sinai’s growing sources of income.

Its camels aren’t the only tool that attracts tourists though. South Sinai’s landscape is phenomenal. A silhouette of silver mountains, they shadowed the beautifully rich colours that were unforgettably inspiring.

A series of bays with innumerable and extraordinary coral reefs, Egypt has made a goal of turning the Red Sea into the new Riviera.

And the signs of development are everywhere: half-built Moorish domes, fieldstone walls in progress and lonely, unopened hotels. Even the nightlife in this Muslim city is modern and developed, and in fact- quite liberated. In 2005, Little Buddha, a sushi bar, took the title of having the longest continuous bar in the Middle East. Even dance club franchise Pacha has one of its three African clubs in Sharm. These nightclubs and restaurants contribute greatly to the lifestyle led by Sharm el-Sheikh’s tourists each year.

Yet, the signs of development have also had other effects: high-rise hotels stain Sharm’s exquisite coast, and an onslaught of European tourists have turned this once traditional, ethnic port into a hub for tour operators, bars, and all-inclusive resorts.

But don’t be dismayed. Sharm has a stretch of silky sandy beaches you will struggle to find elsewhere and coral as bright as you can imagine that it still shouldn’t be missed. So when you book your ticket, just remember Cousteau’s words.

Sharm el-Sheikh should be remembered for one of the best coral reefs in the world. Don’t let the rest put you off.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

WHERE TO STAY

A few resorts offers luxury on a silver plate like does Hyatt Regency Sharm El Sheikh.

Located only 10 mins from the International Airport and less than an hour’s flight from Cairo, Hyatt Regency resort is embraced by the spectacular land and seascapes of mother nature. The unparalleled resort offers an extraordinary blend of international cuisine restaurants and entertainment including folkloric Egyptian dances and music.

All 471 spacious rooms and suites provide magnificent views of the Red Sea from its immense balconies.

SHARMELSHEIKH.REGENCY.HYATT.COM

WHAT TO DO

DIVING

There are over 20 renowned dive sites around Sinai – including the world-famous Ras Mohammad Marine Nature Reserve.

Cfun Divers are the guys to organize your snorkeling and diving trips with. The staff is fully licensed and insured. You will feel at ease with these professionals.

CFUNDIVERS.COM

CAMEL RIDES, BEDOUIN DINNER AND STARGAZING

You can enjoy a 30 minute camel ride, before tasting the Bedoin’s delicious cuisine and trying Egypt’s shisha, a traditional water pipe.

SHARM-CLUB.COM/ACTIVITIES_SHARM_EL_SHEIKH/BEDOUIN_TOURS_SINAI.HTM

THE MONASTERY OF SAINT-CATHERINE

A formidable, fortified monastery, built in the 6^thC under the Roman Empire on what was regarded as the place of Moses’ Burning Bush.

SINAIMONASTERY.COM

MOUNT SINAI (OR MOUNTAIN OF MOSES)

Sacred to Muslims, Jews and Christians, Mount Sinai overlooks the monastery of Saint Catherine at 2285m. You can expect some great views at sunset and sunrise.

HOW TO GET THERE

There are daily flights from the UK to Sharm El Sheikh. It takes 5h30 from Manchester and 5 hours from London.

MONARCH.CO.UK

Words and images Vincent Bernier  Editor Natasha Al-Atassi

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MADEIRA TRAVEL: HAVE YOUR CAKE AND EAT IT

WHEN THE SUBJECT OF PORTUGESE TRAVEL WAS BROACHED, THE FIRST THINGS THAT SPRANG TO MIND WERE OVERCROWDED ALGARVE BEACHES, PORTO WINE AND CRISTIANO RONALDO. NOT OVERJOYED BY THE PROSPECT OF SPENDING A HOLIDAY NEXT TO 18-30 YEAR-OLD PASTY BRITS AND COMING TO THE CONCLUSION THAT RONALDO PROBABLY WON’T BE PASSING ME IN THE STREET, I WAS STARTING TO BECOME VERY GRATEFUL FOR THE WINE. THANKFULLY THOUGH, THE PORTUGUESE OFFERING I WAS EMBARKING ON WAS TO THE SMALL ISLAND OF MADEIRA. DESPITE MY EXCITEMENT OF COPIOUS AMOUNTS OF MADEIRA CAKE BEING QUASHED WHEN I FOUND OUT IT DOESN’T ACTUALLY EXIST ON THE ISLAND, I MADE FINDINGS ABOUT THIS REMOTE ISLE AND WHAT ENCHANTED BEAUTIES IT HAS TO OFFER, THAT I HAD NEVER IMAGINED. SURPRISING MYSELF AND MY BRIEF KNOWLEDGE OF ITS FEW EXPORTS, I DISCOVERED THAT THERE WERE MANY REASONS TO VISIT MADEIRA, BEYOND AND ABOVE ITS NAME-SAKE CAKE.

Situated to the south of Portugal and resting directly west of Morocco, Madeira is a phenomenal discovery. Isolated, over 1000km from the Algarve, visiting Madeira brings the thrill and mystery of uncovering a remote and lonely island far from any cultural distinctions.

This little hotspot was founded by chance in 1419, when Portuguese travelers detoured after their ship wrecked. Since then, this once sleepy, Atlantic outpost has attracted its fair share of grey-haired holiday-makers thanks to its year-round warm and pleasant micro-climate and its countless golf courses.

But don’t let this put you off, the island has attracted tourists since the 19^th Century and now the words ‘cool’ and ‘hip’ can be banded around freely as in more recent years as the island has attempted to give its silver-haired image a makeover.

AGENT2 has set out to find what now attracts younger globetrotters like us to Madeira

Funchal, Madeira’s capital, is an ideal place to start. With the airport nearby, and a city bursting with things to do, it is a great location to ‘set up camp’.

The largest cosmopolitan city offers the visitor both a fantastic urban life and a view of the natural beauties of this small island. Cocooned in a wide valley, the city spreads itself over the gentle harbour slopes to the high mountain tops, reaching over 1200m to the cushioned area in between.

The best way to get a panoramic view of the populous city is by cable car, which will also allow you an excellent, birds-eye-view of Funchal Bay.

The 11 minute journey to the summit at Monte are well worth it. As well as a fantastic vista of Funchal’s lively city, you can also treat yourself to a view of 35,000 m² of flowerbeds and 2,000 exotic plants visible at the city’s Botanical Gardens (montepalace.com) For an exhilarating ride back down the hill, opt for traveling by a basketwork sledge. Breakneck speeds are achieved so beware; this method of transport is not suggested for the faint hearted. We can safely say that this option distances Funchal easily from the “O.A.P. massive” that the island had become synonymous with.

Funchal’s Farmer’s Market (pbase.com/alpiner/) is the perfect antidote to life-threatening outdoor activities. At the centre point of the town, the market is set in a huge space typifying the region’s Art-Deco-like, New State architecture (Estado Novo.)Vibrant and bustling fresh fish, vegetables and other local delicacies are poured over by locals and tourists alike.

Funchal is also Madeira’s focal point for bars and clubs. Sip cocktails by the pool of any of its newest, hip hotels. Head to the harbour for clubs and bars; seek out Vespas (myspace.com/vespasclub.com), the island’s largest club, for late nights and outdoor summer parties.  Chic new eateries are aplenty in the city if great food, conversation and people watching are your thing.

Madeira’s all-year-found temperate climate has produced a landscape that is carpeted in lush vegetation. To get a glimpse of the island’s many vineyards, sugar cane groves and sparkling green hills, take part in a trek. Indeed, walking is the perfect way to view Madeira’s splendid scenery – without breaking the bank. The Levada Walks are walking trails that allow you to trek alongside Madeira’s Levadas (mini-canals), that date back to the 15^th Century. You can opt for a guide or journey beside Madeira’s unique water-supply system alone. Although the Levadas were constructed primarily for agricultural use they are just as important for tourists and local people alike who want to enjoy outdoor adventure activities inaccessible by cars.

One of the most popular – and manageable – treks has to be the Levada do Rabacal. (madeira-levada-walks.com/blog/) Surrounded by a vibrant, sub-tropical forest of laurels, myrtle and other plants that retain their intense green colour all year-round, it’s not hard to guess why the aristocrats from the old continent loved the island enough to move here many moons ago.

Being an island, it goes without saying that Madeira is as much about the sea as it is about land. Madeira lies far into the Atlantic Ocean, 310 miles from Morocco and twice as far from mainland Portugal. Located along the migratory path of many different species of marine animal. Madeira offers the opportunity to spend a day whale and dolphin watching. This is a must for any traveler wishing to take in the truly unique aspects of Madeira’s geographical position.

As the sun beats down on the ocean, there is nothing more beautiful than the variety of dolphins you can spot (Common, Oceanic and Stipped). If you’re very fortunate, watch whales as they dart across the boat’s hull, and skim the waves with simultaneous speed and grace.

After exerting all of your energies, what better way to kick back than to relax with a light lunch and generous amount of that famous Madeira wine – well, it would be rude not to, wouldn’t it?

The beautiful 19^th Century hotel, Estalagen do Vale (estalagemdovale.com) is the perfect place to sample some of Madeira’s gastronomic delights. Having taken on many guises in its life – from school to hospital – Estalagen do Vale is a unique insight into Madeira’s architecture and history, as well as a brilliant place to work your way through Madeira’s vast collection of wines.

Drinking to excess aside, Madeira has long been famed for the curative qualities of its climate.  Yet another reason to enjoy Madeira’s ever-warm climate, as if you’d need one. For another welcome reason to leave the weight of the world behind you, visit the newly opened Spa de Quintinha, where rest, relaxation and reinvigoration are available in abundance (quintinhasaojoao.com) AGENT2 recommends the invigorating hydration treatment. Exfoliating the body with red fruits followed by a full body massage, this therapy should be on the top of any ‘R and R’ seekers wish list. The spa also offers a range of other services from anti-cellulite treatments to body-firming mud wraps that will ensure their newly acquired younger globetrotters will stay looking younger for longer.

Madeira has also become a hub for youthful activity with its growing popularity amongst surfers. Dubbed the Hawaii of Europe, Madeira’s wold-famous Jardim do Mar beach  (surfline.com/surf-report/jardim-do-mar-madeira_6953/) is only a 20 minute drive Ponta do Sol, on the southern coast. Free shuttles also run from the Estalagem do Ponte that brings you to the levada walks and Funchal Airport.

After my stay, I definitely approve Madeira’s effort to rejuvenate the island’s reputation. Madeira has become a delicious attraction for the younger crowd, offering everything from clear blue skies, warm air and piercing sunlight, to mouth-watering wine, delightful fish and jaw-dropping natural beauty. Together with its welcoming Moorish and Mediterranean atmosphere, this transformation has seemed to come effortlessly, for I can see no reason not to come back to Madeira, again and again and again.

Madeira definitely takes pride of place on my destination much-loved list. You might not find Ronaldo or even Madeira cake here on the island, but it is a place of magical discoveries sure to enchant and entice every single type of traveler, from young to old.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Madeira is located South of Portugal and West of Morocco and has an all-year-round warm climate.

Currency is the Euro (£1 = €1.14).

easyJet flies from London Stansted to Madeira from £30.99 one way (£54.98 return) including tax. To book visit www.easyJet.com or call 0905 821 0905

easyJet flies from Bristol to Madeira from £24.99 one way (£45.98 return) including tax. To book visit www.easyJet.com or call 0905 821 0905

easyJet flies from London Gatwick to Madeira from £33.99 one way (£57.98 return) including tax. To book visit www.easyJet.com or call 0905 821 0905

WHERE TO STAY

Nestled atop the highest cliff of the unspoiled village of Ponta do Sol, the Estalagem da Ponta do Sol is definitely worth a stay.

The fruit of the union between nature and clever design, the Estalagem do Ponta do Sol (pontadosol.com) is now member of the prestigious Design Hotels Club (designhotels.com). A renovated farm, the architects successfully achieved perfection in integrating modern concept into the breathtaking natural surroundings. The the simplicity of the decor and the innovative design pieces create a relaxing and cosy atmosphere will definitely please guests. Only 25 minutes from Funchal and 40 minutes from the airport, Ponta do Sol offers you the opportunity to explore a 500 year old traditional village as well as enjoy its beautiful surfing beaches. Prices start from €93 prpn and include breakfast.

For a complete and in-depth guide on your next Madeira visit madeira-web.com or quintas-madeira.com

Words and images Vincent Bernier

Edited Natasha Al-Atassi

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RAD HOURANI – FASHION’S COOLEST GENDER-BENDER

RAD HOURANI IS A NEW PIONEER IN GENDER-BENDING FASHION. THE STYLIST TURNED FASHION DESIGNER HAS JUST RELEASED HIS NEW 2010-SPRING/SUMMER COLLECTION, WHICH IS SURREAL AND GOTHIC, USING ABSTRACT SHAPES WITH A FLOURISH OF DARK, SOMBER COLOURS. DRESSING IN A NON-CONFORMIST, ANDROGYNOUS FACADE IS A FASHION STATEMENT TO SAY THE LEAST, BUT ALSO A TREND THAT HAS BEEN SEEN IN MANY PREVIOUS HIGH FASHION CATWALK SHOWS OVER THE YEARS. HOURANI’S EXPRESSIVE USE OF AN ANDROGYNOUS BLEND, WITH OUTLANDISH SILHOUETTES, MINIMAL COLOUR AND DYNAMIC SHAPES, OFFERS A FRESH NEW APPROACH IN THE WORLD OF FASHION DESIGN.

A mass of black, skinny, shiny, geometric shapes and reflective, futuristic layered fabrics, he sends a volcanic wave down the clean, white catwalk. Heels send a potent message, as the male and female models featured in Hourani’s catwalk show are wearing the squared, chunky heel with style and grace. Skinny slashed trousers, with a mixture of PVC/ leather style fabrics, scream new wave emo/goth, very much informed by the indie rock scene. With sharp, intricately cut shoulder lines, the clothing is built heavy on top, and as you work your way down, the silhouette felt lighter and skinnier in shape and fit.

Since his first collection in 2007, Hourani has shown his flair for the minimalist, the abstract and the surreal. His look, as well as his collections, are inspired by a new generation of designers who see fashion as mix and match of identity and gender role playing, from Gaultier and Galliano, who have toiled with sexuality, creating new masculine and feminine guises through their high fashion catwalk shows.

The collection is very much a futuristic blend of new age warrior meets indie kid. The catwalk marches of models were very difficult to distinguish, who was male or female? A deliberate approach to setting alight an array of dominate looks that can be worn by either a man or a woman, maybe. From gender bending to the clothing consisting of rich blacks and greys with hints of white. His previous autumn/winter 2008 collection used an electric red, mixed with blacks and greys also. The layering adds to the look of an armored, shield-like affect, with a hint of strong shoulder pads, 80′s style; think Prince and Grace Jones.

I got to put some questions to Rad Hourani to see what inspired this boundary breaking designer. This is what he had to say:

What inspired you for this new collection?

It’s just a transformation from the season before. I don’t really make a ‘statement’ with each collection. Therefore I do not start every new season with a specific theme or concept, but rather try to establish continuity from one to the next. I always wanted to work with metallic fabric & texture and I found these 100% silver chains and some metallic zippers, but I never really liked zippers, and I thought it would be great to do something different with zippers that can be useful and can give a metallic effect. You can make jackets sleeves shorter or transform the jacket into a vest, trousers into shorts and even on the sides you can make things tighter with the zippers so there’s a transformation element. I also wanted to focus on my signature look and pieces that I started since my debut; my main colours are black and white, my straps pants, my open elbow sleeve, my vest/top/dress, my skirt/pants and my half leg leather pants.

Black is featured throughout in this collection and many of your previous collections. How would you convince Anna Wintour of U.S Vogue magazine to include it in her run though for the magazine? As you know she hates black…

I am more attached to the notion of purity and by choosing black simple, stark lines. I strive to blur gender boundaries; apparent simplicity, but refinement in details and if I end up using all black for a collection, why not? Black is mysterious, chic, unisex, slick and timeless. Fashion for me is about clothes transcending simple functionality and gaining symbolic, evocative power by engaging in a dialogue with their environment and their time. It’s a tool for self-expression and self-invention. Anna Wintour need to set up trends for her magazine each season like all other editors to keep the fashion machine going, which I respect, but I’m not into trends or fashion, I’m into style in which I focus on my signature look. I don’t need to be the one who makes the boldest statement every season, I’d much rather commit to my personal aesthetics and that of the people who like to wear my clothes. There’s nothing scarier than making fashion, or anything else, for that matter, that everybody agrees on.

You have said your designs are ‘sophisticated modern classics for anti-conformist individuals’. Can you explain further?

Circumstances have brought me to move around from an early point in my life, and I’ve felt compelled to continue on doing so; for this experience has made me consider things in a wider perspective, with no restrictions. I want to convey this notion into my line, and design clothes that can be worn anywhere, anytime. I hope to reach people who do not define themselves primarily as men or women, who go beyond the classical demographical criteria, with no limit of age or national identity. I also try to find the right balance of something that’s not too gothic, funky or rock ‘n’ roll, something that has no reference of one limited style. You can mix my pieces with any style without looking contrived or overdone.

Androgyny, and this asexual feel to your collection, as well as previous ones, is very much a statement within your work. Why is that?

It doesn’t make sense to me why a woman will wear a dress or high heels and not a man. When I say unisex, it’s really in looking at the lines. They are straight, there are no curves: they don’t have a feminine or masculine. It is completely genderless. I believe that using what I would like to wear, as a starting point to the design process is the most truthful and straightforward approach, for it allows me to stay focused on my aesthetic statement and also assess my commitment to wearability, functionality, and comfort. I design from a virgin point of view, trying to elude classical ready-to-wear rules that made us believe that women and men deserve different approaches. My pieces are timeless and freed from any gender differentiations.

Your work borders on cutting edge, yet timeless in some ways. Is that a deliberate approach, and why?

Yes, my clothes have erupted from this world of mine. They are asexual, aseasonal. I’m into unisex, timeless, long, straight, sharp, black, slick, geometric shapes and layered silhouettes that, by the use of noble, fluid materials, come alive through the movement of the wearer. They come from no place, no time, no tradition, yet they can be home anywhere, anytime. They exude a sense of discreet chic, the essence of timeless style, drawn on a monochromatic and graphical canvas. I never went to any school after high school for that matter and I guess my influences are the gathering of my own personal experiences and observations over the years; not something somebody told me to do or think. To that end, my collection might be more personal.

RADHOURANI.COM

Words Joe Tehrani

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AGENT2 MAGAZINE DISCOVERS MURCIA – SPAIN’S BEST KEPT SPA SECRET

“MURCIA IS THE SALAD BOWL OF SPAIN,” SO I WAS TOLD, AS WE DROVE IN ANTICIPATION TO OUR RESORT. YET, PASSING THE DRY MOUNTAINOUS LAND AND CRISP LEAVES HANGING TIREDLY OFF TREES, IT DIDN’T SEEM SO. MY VISIONS OF LUSH ROLLING HILLS WERE REPLACED WITH PEBBLED LANDS, SCORCHED BY THE SUMMER’S HEAT AND A HORIZON COVERED IN A GOLDEN HUE. I FOUND IT HARD TO BELIEVE THIS COULD BE SPAIN’S SALAD BOWL WHEN IT LOOKED TOO SPARSE TO EVEN GROW A LETTUCE, BUT INDEED BEHIND GIANT GREENHOUSES GREW BULGING JUICY TOMATOES, SPREAD OUT ON DRY SOIL LAY THOUSANDS OF FRESH ASPARAGUS AND DISGUISED UPON SILVERY PARCHED TREES HUNG AN ABUNDANCE OF LARGE GREEN OLIVES AND ACERBIC LEMONS. HOME TO SOME OF SPAIN’S BEST RESORTS AND SPAS – AND OF COURSE VEGETABLES, I LEARNT THAT MURCIA IS A MASTER OF ILLUSION. FOOLING THE VISITOR OF ITS SIMPLE RUSTIC CHARM, MURCIA’S GREATEST SECRET LAYS WITHIN ITS WORLD CLASS RESORTS. CAMOUFLAGED SO EFFORTLESSLY UPON SANDY MOUNTAINS, THE LUXURIOUSNESS OF MURCIA’S EXCLUSIVE HOTELS AND SPAS COULD ALL TOO EASILY BE MISSED; YOU’D NEVER EVEN KNOW THEY WERE HERE.

The region of Murcia, on the South-East coast of Spain, is home to the now infamous resort group, Polaris World. Renowned among UK property owners for its quality villas, Polaris World resorts also host a variety of different accommodation to allow everyone to enjoy its luxurious facilities. Most popular with holiday-goers are its seven 5* InterContinental hotels dotted all over the coast.

Each resort offers guests a break of pure relaxation, with onsite amenities that include outdoor and indoor swimming pools, buffet breakfasts, supermarkets, a choice of delicious restaurants, bars and cafes, and of course Murcia’s quality Jack Nicklaus designed golf courses for a perfect weekend retreat. Polaris’ resorts also feature the ultimate in decadent breaks; the crème de la crème of world renowned spas.

Indeed, its spas unveil an oasis of opulence in this barren area, exuding luxury at its absolute finest. Polaris World’s Mar Menor Golf Resort and Spa contains well-known British spa, ESPA, free to use for all hotel guests. This spa is exquisite; every feature is embellished and every detail scrupulously seen to.

The hotel itself is composed of Arabic and Andalucían influences with limestone walls, marble bathrooms, ornate wooden screens and rich deep colours, paying homage to its traditional Spanish heritage. All the resorts are high-quality design masterpieces individually characterised by open-plan bathroom/bedrooms, huge waterfall shower rooms or perfectly located balconies all offering beautiful vistas.

At ESPA, these excellent features persist, allowing guests to not only feel indulged but respectfully regal too. Its Moorish architecture of dark oak woods, mosaics, lanterns and fine tiles is replicated within the spa, creating a seductive relaxing mood, and resulting in an effortless flow from one room to the next.

ESPA prides itself in giving guests a ‘journey’; a voyage to another realm, where unadulterated relaxation is the intent. ESPA spas appear all over the world, in their own unique format, aiming to grant guests total harmony in mind and body. Every moment of this ‘journey’ is so categorically peaceful, entrancing visitors as soon as they slip the cushioned slippers upon their tired feet.

Mar Menor’s spa reflects local architecture and its associated mysticism. It is also has specially designed natural products to ‘evoke sensations of Arabian exoticism and Mediterranean allure.’

Whilst a visit to ESPA in the UK could leave a big hole in your account, all hotel guests are welcome to use the spa’s facilities at no extra cost. It’s well worth making use of its hot thermal suite, vitality pool, saunas, steam and relaxation room, waterfall and lifestyle showers, 15 metre indoor pool and fitness studio, as a brief trip in England could cost a penny or two. To really spoil yourself, you can also choose from a list of treatments from facials to massages (from EUR 90).

On entering the spa, soft harmonies and the subtle aroma of sensual candles and oils fill the air, both enhancing the senses and calming the mind. Put your velvety soft white bath robe on as you walk through the rustic wooden doors and into another world entirely, where time has no feature and nothing in the world seems to matter. Darkness, worries and the stresses of frenetic lifestyles are left at the door. This is another realm entirely – money is no concern, time stops stills, fears whittle away and the stresses of your daily routine dissolve into oblivion. Here you forget everything. And it’s heavenly.

Cocooned within these granite tiled walls and underneath dimmed spot lights, you notice your pace slow down and your heartbeats relax. Ease yourself into the vitality pool where vibrations stimulate your body and a neck fountain massages the knots out of your back. The variety of showers all have different functions, from the sauna and steam room which sweat out your impurities to the ice fountain which closes your pores and cools your body down. All showers are designed to ease aching muscles and release tension and toxins from your body.

The relaxation room offers guests a chance to escape the outside world and recline on mechanised loungers in a beautifully tiled room. Separated by antique wooden screens, centred around an ornate fountain and dazzling skylight, this room portrays a Moroccan courtyard without the dark, seductive colours. Instead the brightly lit room is a rejuvenating refreshment after a soporific treatment or hypnotising waterfall.

Mar Menor’s indoor pool is certainly a feature to remember, lined with thousands of silvery blue tiles, it is almost a mosaic unto itself, luring the guest into the mysticism and majesty matching its lavish surroundings. Giant brass lanterns hang delicately above the still cool water giving the open room a magnetic yet spiritual glow.

ESPA’s aim is to envelop the guest in peace and empower them with strength and vitality. The harmonious ambiance of the Eastern royal design not only unwinds visitors but makes them feel suitably important.

The pampering doesn’t stop there though – hotel guests are free to use facilities at each of the seven resorts and can travel between them on Polaris’ free bus. Use of the other hotel’s swimming pools, golf courses, restaurants and indeed, spas are all available including recently opened, La Torre Golf Resort’s new Thai Spa and Wellness Zone.

It doesn’t have as many deluxe components as ESPA but with a state of the art gym, 25m heated indoor pool, a steam room, Swedish sauna as well as six oriental-themed treatment rooms, it definitely welcomes guests into complete submission. The Thai spa is complimented greatly with Far Eastern, Mediterranean and state of the art contemporary features. The dimly lit incensed rooms invite guests to journey to exotic lands and surrender all their aches and worries.

Polaris World’s spas are definitely a good reason to pop over to this Spanish dream location but like any special resort, there is always more than one excuse to go. Polaris’ golf courses, for instance, have been designed by famous golfer Jack Nicklaus and his team, making these greens some of the best in the world. Indeed, 59 of the world’s top 100 golf courses are Nicklaus Design, putting Murcia on the map for keen golfers.

Spa enthusiasts need not be dismayed. The resorts are not teeming with men in white sweaters and there’s not a whiff of snobbery in the fresh mountainous air. Both amateur and professional golf is played here, with the opportunity of having a short beginner’s lesson. Or if golf is not your thing, then you can simply soak in the crisp green grass against the backdrop of silver mountains whilst reclining by the pool.

The resorts themselves provide everything one could ask for; Polaris World has successfully manufactured little ‘towns’, with villas, town houses, street names, restaurants, schools, doctors, supermarkets, world-class spas and the mandatory Irish pubs, meaning there really is no need to venture elsewhere.

If you do fancy a bit of Spanish culture then the city of Murcia is only a twenty minute drive away. Narrow streets, tree-lined avenues with tables and chairs, cafes selling churros con cocoa, and old gothic buildings of rosa (pink) stone, plazas and central fountains, this city oozes Mediterranean charm felt with every relaxing stroll during siesta and every refreshing helado (ice cream). One beautiful feature is its baroque cathedral, grand yet unassuming. Its impressive statues juxtapose against cool limestone walls creating a suitably peaceful and spiritual ambiance.

The region of Murcia also runs along both the coast of Mar Menor and the Mediterranean offering guests the opportunity to dip their toes into more than one sea. Only fifteen minutes from the resorts, guests can relax upon one of the Med’s less trampled beaches, and explore unspoilt coves.

Murcia seems to have a whole lot of tricks up its sleeves; the best being that it is still unspoilt by British tourism. A visit here, even in the thick of summer, will challenge you to feel crowded. In fact, its true charm comes from being able to escape a British summer to a place of welcoming luxury, sociable hospitality and phenomenal views of exotic lemon groves within a two hour flight.

The reason why Polaris World resorts are so extraordinary is simply because, hidden in this little corner of Spain, you’d have never guessed they were here. Golden limestone hotels and Grecian white villas are scattered upon sandy hills like little oases of pure, humble pleasure allowing guests to simply kickback, relax and enjoy the finest foods and wines within exquisite scenery. And yet locked in gated enclosures, it is a camouflage that hides its luxurious treats and pampering spas well, allowing this ‘salad bowl’ to continue untouched, as it always has done; an unassuming terrain with some of the tastiest secrets in the world.

Travel Information:

Spain is one hour ahead of the UK and the currency is the Euro (€) where £1 = EUR 1.14. Spain’s capital is Madrid, a three and a half hour drive away from Murcia or an hour’s flight from Murcia’s Airport. Monarch Airways flies to Alicante, 45 minutes from Murcia’s Polaris World, from Manchester Airport from £52.99 one-way to £90.50 return. During the summer, Monarch also flies from Birmingham and London Gatwick. Monarch offers in-flight meals from £3.00 and extra-leg room seats can be booked for an additional £15 (www.monarch.co.uk).

Polaris World gives guests the opportunity to stay in Apartments, Townhouses, Villas or in one of its seven exclusive 5* InterContinental resorts. Renting an apartment for four people starts at EUR 650 a week. A stay at Polaris World’s La Torre Resort starts at EUR 99 prpn, sleeping two people until November (www.polarisworld.com).

Murcia is situated in the South-East of Spain, where temperatures reach a scorching 40˚C during the summer months. An area with over 300 days of sunshine and an annual average temperature of 21˚C, Murcia is the perfect location for a last-minute autumn break to experience the summer that in England, we never had. Indeed, Murcia offers a warm recluse at any time of the year and with ESPA’s luxurious spa at hand, there really is no reason not to visit (www.espaonline.com).

Words Natasha Al-Atassi

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AGENT2 MAGAZINE GETS THE LYON’S SHARE

FOR THE COUNTLESS PEOPLE TRAVELING GUIDED BLINDLY BY THEIR STOMACHS, ALL ROADS IN FRANCE LEAD TO LYON. THOUGH PARIS IS THOUGHT TO BE THE FOOD CENTRE OF FRANCE, PROUD PARISIANS WHO JEALOUSLY KEEP WATCH OF THEIR CULINARY POSITION SOMETIMES EVEN VISIT THIS GASTRONOMIC CAPITAL JUST FOR A MEAL. HERE, FRANCE’S BEST FOODS COME TOGETHER IN A COSMIC COLLECTION OF SUCCULENT MEATS, FRESH PRODUCE AND CRISP CLEAN WINE MAKING A WEEKEND BREAK ONE OF INDULGENCE AS WELL AS A RELAXING RETREAT. FRANCE’S BIGGEST SECRET, LYON OFFERS THE BEST IN CULTURE, HISTORY AND BY ALL STANDARDS, THE FINEST OF FOOD – SO FINE THAT NOT EVEN THE RICHNESS AND EXCLUSIVITY OF MICHELLIN PARIS CAN COMPETE.

One reason for the city’s culinary excellence is its location. In the South-East of France, Lyon is blessed with the optimum produce. Quality ingredients from the surrounding areas pour into its markets and restaurants – poultry from Bresse, beef from the Charolais, fish from nearby rivers, fruit and vegetables from the farmlands and wines from Beaujolais and Cote du Rhone. This bountiful abundance creates excellent cooks.

Of course the best way to enjoy France’s succulent cuisine is dining-out in one of Lyon’s beautiful Renaissance buildings, spilling out onto narrow streets. Visit the popular medieval part of town, Vieux Lyon (‘Old Lyon’) for sociable bars and restaurants, including ‘bouchons’, or inns. Featuring traditional Lyonnaise cooking such as hearty local dishes like pork sausages or ‘andouillettes’, potatoes baked in creamy sauce and roast pork, you can really get to grips with rustic French cuisine. The emphasis in a ‘bouchon’ is not on haute cuisine but rather, a relaxed time and homely ambiance that comes naturally in this traditional setting.

To dive into Lyon’s finest and tastiest gastronomy, without paying an extravagant price, try one of Paul Bocuse’s 3* bistro restaurants Nord, Sud, Est or Ouest with their own specific themes. Brasserie Le Nord is the most popular place in Lyon for traditional Lyonnais cuisine. At Brasserie Le Sud, flavours head south with Mediterranean inspiration coming from southern France’s Provence to Tunisia or Morocco in North Africa. Brasserie de l’Est is a large, bustling place offering Pan-French cuisine and a noisy and animated ambiance that evokes the brasseries de gare of faraway Paris. Finally, the Brasserie de l’Ouest completely turns the tables on authentic French cooking and boasts some of the tastiest Californian Wild West food in France.

A fresh way to discover Lyon is to attend the festival that has made massive waves in the electronic music world.  Les Nuits Sonores was born in 2003 with little more than 15,000 visitors. Now the four-day event bears a crowd of more than 55,000, bringing to life many of Lyon’s emblematic buildings by choosing old industrial sites, concert halls, clubs and galleries as venues. The festival’s line-up gets more and more impressive every year, with this year hosting more than 250 artists, including some big names in electronic music such as Giles Peterson and Laurent Garnier.  The gigs are a unique insight into Lyonnais social culture, away from café lined promenades and baroque buildings.

Dates for next year’s festival fall between 12^th and 16^th May 2010, so be sure to book your tickets in advance. (nuits-sonores.com)

Lyon is arguably most famous for its beautiful Basilica de Notre Dame. Offering exquisite vistas of rolling hills, flowing rivers, bustling markets and of course, its beautifully kept, medieval city,  the view from the top of the Basilica really is the best way to see the region. Set in a dominant position overlooking the city, the energetic can enjoy a steep walk to the basilica. Alternatively, embark on a ride in the funicular, a cable railway (the ficelle, near the Cathedrale de Saint-Jean) up Fourviere Hill. From the terrace of the flamboyant white church, the beautiful city unfolds before you, cradled between two hills. You’ll see the Rhone and Saone rivers meandering through folds, forming the peninsula, Presque’ile, the very heart of the city.

At your feet, old terracotta-roofed houses are sprawled throughout Vieux Lyon. This district has been nicknamed ‘La Colline qui Travaille’ because many silk workshop mills were transplanted here in the 18^th Century from the Vieux Lyon area. In the middle distance, you will see the enormous parks and the newer sections of the Greater Lyon, punctuated by modern high-rises.

The best way to explore the area is to rent a bicycle. The service is called Velo’v and provides solid, comfortable bikes, available for anyone to use, 24 hours a day, seven days a week. You can find them at locations all over Lyon. There are 340 Velo’v stations, so when you are done with your bike, you can drop it off at any of their spots. The service promotes greater mobility and better health at a sweet cheap rate (from €1 between 30 to 90 minutes and €2 each hour thereafter.) (velov.grandlyon.com)

One of the best places to explore on wheels is the old and famous and famous ‘Parc de la Tete d’Or’ or ‘The Golden Head Park’. A huge park, holding tens of thousands of roses on its roserarie and 1800 species of alpine plants, it is named after a story saying that a golden head of Christ buried there. The park also possesses a reservoir, botanical garden, a zoo, canals and outdoor gardens; plenty to keep you entertained on a cool autumn afternoon. (parc-tete-dor.com)

Another exhibit not to miss is the superb and ultramodern Musee d’art contemporain de Lyon (mac-lyon.com), situated in ‘La Cite Internationale’ that counts the Interpol headquarters building. (cite-internationale-lyon.fr)

If you’re thinking of a stay during frosty winter, visit Lyon at the beginning of December when over 70 sites are illuminated for public enjoyment. The ‘Fete des Lumieres’ takes place for four days every year. This ‘festival of light’, which first occurred 150 years ago, originally had religious connotations with residents placing candles in their windows to thank the Virgin Mary for saving them from the plague. Now, the popular festival is become a cultural spectacle, seeing around 4 million visitors flock the area, from all over France and Europe. (lumieres.lyon.fr)

For a real foodie holiday, indulge in a day-trip to Annecy, in the French region of Haute-Savoie (en.annecy.eu).  Here, exceptionally pretty open-air markets, a pride of the city, sell locally produced creamy soft and stenchy cheeses as well as an abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables. Only a 30 minute bus ride from Lyon, the beautiful countryside offers a variety of activities including boat trips on Lake Annecy, the second largest lake in France, or a trip to Palase de l’sle, a castle turned into a prison. One of the most photographed monuments in France, the castle and indeed, the whole area are well worth a visit. (annecy-croisieres.com).

Only 470 km from Paris and the second largest city in France, Lyon is deservedly the gastronomical capital of France. Unscathed by tourism, it has been allowed to continue farming, producing, and cooking traditional, hearty and rustic cuisines that bear no real comparison with other fancy h’orderves, snails or frogs’ legs. Succulent meat, fresh vegetables, the tastiest of stews, sauces and roasts, this is French country food at its best and cuisine that normally gets unnoticed.

And this time-honored nature and resistance to fashionable fare is what makes Lyon so charming and so damn delicious. Not only is it acclaimed for its colourful and warming menus, but Lyon is loaded with astonishing sites. Forgotten upon the tourists’ map, it is also delightfully quiet; free from the tirade of noisy tourists, it is as pristinely old-fashioned as it has always been. Bursting with historical elegance, pride, understated grace and truly excellent food and wine, if you’re lucky enough to visit Lyon it is a place you definitely won’t want to share.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Lyon is located in the South-East of France. It is one hour ahead of the UK and the currency is the Euro (£1 = €1.14).

Easyjet flies to Lyon Saint-Exupery Airport daily from London Gatwick and Stansted Airports. Check www.easyjet.com frequently for some good deals.

You can also take the train from Paris or Marseille that arrive at Lyon-Part-Dieu, Lyon Perrache or Lyon Saint-Exupery. They take two hours from Paris, and one and a half from Marseille. Visit www.tgv.co.uk for more information and timetables.

WHERE TO STAY

There are plenty of hotels to choose from in Lyon but for an inexpensive and comfortable stay, book a room at the respectable Mercure Lyon Grand Hotel Saxe Lafayette, 29 rue de Bonnel 69003, Lyon.

Right in the heart of the city, it is in an ideal location, just a 10 minute walk from Vieux Lyon, the nearby metro and a wide range of restaurants and brasseries. Prices satart from £81 prpn based on two sharing.

Visit www.accorhotels.com for more information.

WHERE TO EAT

Paul Bocuse’s 3* bistro restaurants Nord, Sud, Est or Ouest (www.nordsudbrasseries.com)

Brasserie de Le Nord, 18 rue Neuve

Brasserie Le Sud, Place Antonin Poncet,

Brasserie de l’Est, 14 Place Jules-Ferry

Brasserie de l’Ouest, 1 Quai du Commerce

For a complete and in-depth guide to Lyon, visit en.lyon-france.com or franceguide.com

Words and images Vincent Bernier

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FASHION’S NIGHT OUT

If there’s one date every fashion lover on earth will be marking in their diary this year, it’ll be the 10^th September 2009.

International Editions of Vogue magazine are joining forced with department stores, boutiques, designers and high street chains worldwide to celebrate fashion. The UK is top of the list when it comes to style capitals, with a vibrant fashion scene and talented young designers. Globally renowned for its eclectic style, London is one of the thirteen cities taking part in the event. Others include New York, Paris, Milan, Tokyo, Moscow and New Delhi.

Vogue publisher Conde Nast has decided to host the evening to re-inject the fun back into fashion and persuade shoppers to indulge in some serious retail therapy in a bid to fight back against the flailing economy. Hundreds of stores across the capital will be offering free champagne, big discounts and promotions on their wares. Alexander McQueen, Topshop, Prada, H&M, Gucci, Selfridges, Agent Provocateur and Marks & Spencer are just a few of the well-known brands taking part in the city’s biggest shopping event in history.

Designers and celebrities will also be in attendance for meet-and-greets, and the Vogue team will be on hand to provide style advice, makeovers and fashion workshops. Live music and fashion shows are also planned.  Stores in Regent Street, Oxford Street and Bond Street will be staying open as late as midnight especially for the occasion. The September edition of Vogue features ‘star buys’ that 73 of the participating stores have picked out especially for the night, including coveted items such as a MaxMara coat, so visitors have an idea of the bargains that await them.

As well as encouraging shoppers to part with their cash, the event is also seeking to raise money for charity. Vogue has designed a limited edition T-shirt, which will be available on the night only to commemorate Fashion’s Night Out. London stores will be offering this T-shirt to all present and 100 per cent of the profits made from T-shirt sales will be donated to Crisis, the UK homeless charity.

Alexandra Shulman, editor of British Vogue, said, “This worldwide activity is to remind us all that fashion is to be enjoyed and to mark the contribution that the shopping environment makes to all our lives.  We’re delighted to be in a position at Vogue to undertake this enterprise and to bring retailers and shoppers together in central London for this unprecedented feel-good occasion.  In these difficult economic times we want to reward the spirit of enterprise and imagination that the fashion industry encapsulates.”

Words Kay Weston

THEFASHIONISTAHASSPOKEN.BLOGSPOT.COM

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PERHENTIAN PERFECTION

Paradise. Pure unadulterated Paradise. If the Garden of Eden was on a beach, this would be it. Islands of ice white sand, abandoned rainforest, uninhabited lagoons and crystal clear waters that stretch as far as the eye can see. Untouched and exquisite, where man’s steps create no lasting print in the sand and no voices echo through the trees. A deserted island which only you have discovered. Bliss. Pure bliss. When, in the past, people have said they have seen paradise I know now that they were lying. Because they hadn’t been here. They haven’t been to the Perhentians.

There are many islands we associate with Paradise in the world but never have I been to a place like this; where nature has been left so unharmed that a wild beauty roams freely through the tree tops and lies seductively on the beach.

‘This is what Thailand was like before all the tourists invaded,’ people often told me. But, having been to Thailand, I’m not sure if they’re entirely accurate. This is Thailand before… fake longboats, haggard snorkelling trips and the familiar smell of alcohol and weed; this is Thailand before… boats ever made it across the shore; this is Thailand before…anyone ever stepped foot on the islands. This may never have been Thailand at all. But this is a nearby secret. So near it makes you wonder why so many people visit Thailand instead, but then I’m not complaining because it’s a secret I’m happy to keep from young party goers, and rich resort companies. For the Perhentian Islands, locked in a cove in the South China Sea, this…is Malaysia.

Twenty-five kilometres off the east coast of Malaysia’s peninsular, rests two little gems: Perhentian Besar and Perhentian Kecil; two remote deserted islands with only a handful of residents who know better than to share their secret with the rest of the world. Only 523 kilometres away rests the party island of Thailand’s Kho Phagnan with its monthly full moon party and thousands of hedonistic teenagers. These islands are chaste by comparison and are more beautiful for it.

In Malay, Perhentian means ‘Place to stop’. This is exactly what you must do here. Stop. Stay. And unwind.

Everything here is almost magical – a place so fine you couldn’t even imagine it. Until the late 1980s, the Perhentian Islands were a well-kept secret but as the popularity of the Thai islands shot up, word has slowly spread about the Perhentians. They are the first choice destination on Malaysia’s East Coast but remain as deliciously discrete as they have always been.

Perhentian Besar is the bigger of the two islands and most popular among resort-goers. Residents have managed to restrict the number of resorts on the island so hotels are far and few between. Instead, rustic chalets and wooden huts are the usual accommodation on the Perhentians, keeping things tastefully simple and island-friendly.

This is especially the case for Perhentian Kecil. Popular amongst the younger twenty-, and thirty-something’s, accommodation is basic but you’ll find the atmosophere rich with warmth; sociable, and undeniably genuine. Budget wooden cabins border the coastline of Kecil’s two beautiful beaches, Long Beach (Pasir Panjang) and Coral Bay (Teluk Aur), whilst mid-range chalets rest camouflaged further up in the trees.

Everything here is pretty minimal: electricity is limited, the water supply is held in tanks, and only a couple of shops-cum-restaurants-cum-internet cafes-cum-music spots exist but for a short stay, this is all you need. At the same time, the ‘no-thrills’ treatment is a refreshing change from our usual surplus choice and excessiveness making this sparseness not bare and basic, but deliciously liberating.

And simplicity in the Perhentians really is the key. The strict protection over the island’s nature has prevented developers constructing in the centre of the islands, meaning that their interiors are nearly entirely uninhabited jungle. This is what makes them so exceptional. The only buildings are the few wooden A-Frames scattered on the islands’ periphery and one or two hotels. Everything else is pure rainforest, which makes the Perhentians as damn close to Eden as conceivably possible.

There are no roads on the islands, no cars or motorbikes, no traffic and no pollution. Travellers wanting to get from one beach to another can climb between the curtain of jungle through a couple of footpaths or use the most of common form of transport here and arguably the easiest, the water taxi. Instantly accessible from any beach, water taxis are wooden speed boats that for a reasonable price, can take you to any cove, any beach, or any lagoon your heart desires.

Kecil’s two popular beaches, Long Beach and Coral Bay contrast significantly to each other but both offer the visitor uncontaminated beaches, seclusion and heavenly sunshine. Coral Bay is a little smaller and boasts spectacular views of the sunset. Long Beach provides a greater selection of restaurants but most invitingly, a long stretch of glossy fine sand. The island is so small that you can easily visit the other and I recommend attempting the short twenty minute walk through the rainforest for its beautiful foilage, and indeed, as water taxis overcharge heavily for this short trip.

Treks over the leafy hilltop will also bring you closer to Kecil’s unmatched flora and fauna as well as give you the opportunity to get a glimpse of Malaysia’s unique wildlife. If you’re lucky, you might spot mouse deer, fruit bats, flying foxes and of course, monkeys, monkeys, monkeys. You will almost certainly find Malaysia’s famous Monitor Lizard. The reptile measures nearly 1.5 m in length and can be found anywhere, on forest paths, near your chalet or slowly walking along the beach. It can be a rather strange experience walking beside the crocodile-like creature but one that most certainly brings you closer to Malaysia’s exotic nature.

If it’s absorbing yourself in wildlife that interests you then the Perhentians should be on top of your places to visit. Renowned as one of the best scuba diving sites in the world, it boasts an abundance of colourful coral and a huge variety of magnificent exotic fish (www.turtlebaydivers.com). For the less adventurous, the small diving centres also offer snorkelling trips that can last from half an hour to a whole day. To get the most out of Malaysia’s underwater paradise, the longer trips are definitely recommended and can be found for as little as 40RM (£8), including all use of snorkelling equipment. After just five minutes on the boat, you won’t believe your eyes. The sea becomes so incredibly clear that even without sinking yourself into the water you’ll be able to see the countless shoals of fish bustling past each other.

Dunking into the sea you become immersed in an entirely different world altogether. Barracuda, needlefish, clown fish are just a few of the millions of creatures you will spot flipping around. The water sparkles with such clarity making visits from the unknown marginally less shocking than possibly could have been. Lost in a kingdom of coral mountains, starfish, crabs, sea urchins and sea cucumbers, don’t be surprised to get a couple of larger visitors too.

Indeed, splashing around carefree with my Little Mermaid goggles firmly attached I managed to spot not one, but three, Bumphead Parrot fish swimming towards me. It may not sound like much but measuring 1.3m in length they are almost as long as me. Such elusive creatures, it was a truly phenomenal experience to be welcomed into their own private world of turquoise colours and silent fairytales.

But if spotting mysterious creatures of the deep lagoon tickles your fancy then you will almost certainly enjoy catching a glimpse of two of South China Sea’s greatest inhabitants: the giant turtle and, more alarmingly, the black tip reef shark. Jumping into the deeper waters it was only when its sparkling clearness turned eerily dark and shadows of toothed figures began to encircle us that I realised the impact of my hasty decision to go looking for the world’s most deadly fish. In reality, Perhentian’s sharks are not dangerous creatures. Feeding mainly on small reef fish, they show no interest in pasty tourists and swimming among them is a relatively safe activity. Nevertheless, spotting the Great White’s cousin is rather spooky and its entire 2m length an imposing presence.

The giant turtles were again an extraordinary experience. Slipping into bottomless cloudy waters, the emptiness and mystery of these hidden depths are amplified when these friendly creatures slowly float past you in a serene hypnotic fashion.

A protected marine park, the Perhentian Islands most certainly have the best snorkelling opportunities I had ever practised. However, even if diving into the cool blue isn’t your thing, lying on isolated beaches with velvet sands softly slipping between your toes most probably will be.

Taking a private boat taxi to isolated coves and undiscovered lagoons is the perfect way to unwind; an exclusive beach experience and a step closer to that ‘deserted tropical island’ dream. Long beaches with stretches of sheer narrow waters contrast with deeper emerald coves and intense illuminating turquoise lagoons, so striking that only when you come here do you realise that that word ‘turquoise’ has been so wrongly used in all cases before. Only here, does the word truly come to life; where in one view, deep sapphires melt into bright cobalt slipping softly upon the shore as lucent waters.

The silence here is exceptional bliss. On the secluded coves, you can literally have the beach all to yourself; perfect for a romantic trip or a peaceful getaway. Each island remains so unspoiled and so remarkably natural that it can sometimes feel as though, with each footprint delicately washed away, no one had stepped on this shore before. And as your prints sink into the silky sand, the cove will remain as natural and untainted as when you first arrived.

This unspoiled air that softly envelops the Perhentians alludes to some sort of majesty; something so pure and innocently charming that it almost feels like an illusion. After all, how has it possibly escaped the prying pollution of mass tourism and commercialisation for all this time?

The answer lies with its people. The very few inhabitants of the Perhentians protect their tropical paradise just as you would if you lived here. Though they could benefit from the growth of tourism, they choose to preserve their corner of the world and keep it just as it is: a pure taste of heaven.  For this reason they have also enforced a strict alcohol ban on the islands, owing to their Muslim religion.

This means that bars and restaurants are not allowed to serve or sell alcohol in any of their premises. Though this may put off some excitable travellers, they are probably the ones you wouldn’t want in this sweet paradise anyway. That’s not to say that the atmosphere here isn’t electric. Long Beach, Kecil’s main strip, offers a small but plentiful selection of alcohol-free restaurants, and the evening comes alive as the woody smell of barbecue wisps through the salty air and guitars are strummed poetically around log fires. When the soft buzz of music and chatter drifts along the beach, the charm of the island comes alive; its ease and warmness openly embracing strangers like us.

This laidback atmosphere is what makes the islands so unique and its abstinence is a refreshing resolution to the regular flame-throwing, dance music, boozy island hops.

Certainly, it is probably its alcohol-free policy that has prevented it from becoming soiled by drunk and hedonistic backpackers. When people visit the Perhentians they do so for its incomparable magnetism; its incredible wildlife and its graceful charisma. With no alcohol, it remains chilled and relaxed, and sincerely beautiful.

It may even be reminiscent of a Thailand that once was. But for us now, the Perhentians are a gem, a true gift of nature with its tropical beaches under a canopy of thick, untamed forest. A retreat we’d never want to leave.

A discreet glimpse into Paradise that we are privileged to see. A hideaway that we must not abuse and a secret we can only whisper so that not everyone hears.

A place to stop, it says. A place to stop indeed.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Malaysia is eight hours ahead of England (GMT). Currency is the Malaysian Ringgit (£1 = 5.90 MYR) where a meal costs around 10MYR and a coffee from 3-5MYR. Malaysia’s capital is Kuala Lumpur (KL); flights depart daily from London Heathrow to KL from £154 one way (www.airasia.com) and takes 12 hours.

To reach the Perhentians, you can take a short one hour flight from KL to Johar Bharu for 39RM (£6.50) each way through Asia’s budget airline, AirAsia (www.airasia.com). From here you can find a taxi (one way 65RM= £11) to the port of Kuala Besut, where you take a boat to the Perhentians.

Alternatively, overnight coaches leave KL daily direct for Kuala Besut and take 9 hours, reaching the port in time to catch the first boat to the islands. The return bus journey costs 80RM (£13.50).

Speed boats leave Kuala Besut several times a day for the beach of your choice and takes approximately 30 minutes to reach the islands. The boat tickets can be bought at Kuala Besut and costs 70RM return (£12).

Temperatures in the Perhentians remain high throughout the year (21–32˚C) but heavy rains occur during the Monsoon season (November to February) when the islands virtually shut down. Peak season is between July and August; prices rise during this busy time and it is advisable to make your bookings in advance.

Life on the islands remain very simple; it has a strong religious influence so there is no permitted alcohol nor topless bathing but the hospitality of the islanders is always warm and welcoming. There are no cash machines on either of the islands nor in Kuala Besut so it is advised to take your cash out before you depart for the Perhentians and always plan ahead.

The Perhentians may be isolated and simplistic but it is rich in nature and atmosphere. Each panoramic sea view exudes a touch of tropical bliss that you could only ever find on a Paradise island, such as this.

For more information visit: www.perhentian.com/my

Words and images Natasha Al-Atassi

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