NEW DELHI: MY BASMATI OR YOURS?
NEW DELHI, THE CAPITAL OF INDIA, EXHILARATES IN PASSION, CULTURE AND LOVE. A COUNTRY BURSTING WITH FLAVOURS AMONGST THE FOOD, PEOPLE AND THE HISTORIC LANDMARKS THAT I CAME ACROSS, UPON MY TRAVELS TO THIS BEAUTIFUL CITY.
When I was invited to the APEDA Basmati for the World food conference in New Delhi, India, I was so overly excited, India is such a beautiful country, from the climate to the people to the aromas of the spices, I certainly do adore Mother India.
After departing from London, I landed at 5am on the Monday at Indira Gandhi International Airport, New Delhi. Outside the weather was very foggy. We left in the fog and arrived in the fog, it almost felt as though I went round in the air and ended back at Heathrow. The journey in total with the delay was 9hours.
The journey to hotel from the airport was about 20 minutes, I was staying at The Grand Hotel, a newly refurbished hotel for when the Commonwealth Games took place in 2010. As I arrived to the hotel and descended the bus, had to go through the metal detectors, security in India is very high due to the 2009 bombings. The white reception lobby was of a large size, overlooking the gardens. On arrival at check in, breakfast was served at the Crystal Lounge on the lower ground floor. The view was amazing with the gardens in front, massive palm, beautiful flower trees lined together. There was an array of different cuisines for breakfast, the waitress took me around and showed me the indian, chinese, english and continental. I was so lost for choice but I played it safe as I was very sleepy. Juice was served in small little glass bottles, which was so handy and a glassful.
The room was big and airy, the bathroom was the size of my bedroom at home, decked out in black tiles, an oval mirror with the toiletries at the far end, a tub, walk in shower and a sink. Sliding doors for the toilet and wardrobe. Also there were two entrances to the bathroom, one was from the corridor as soon as you enter from the main door, and the other was the sliding door beside the bed. The sliding door was covered with a full mirror. The room definitely wasn’t short of any mirrors, definitely handy for any woman. The bed was very comfortable after a 9 hour flight.
Monday afternoon was all about sight seeing, boarded the bus at 4pm, the hotel was situated near a massive modern contemporary shopping mall where you’d find the likes of Zara, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and etc. Driving around Delhi was nice, the constant horning, overtaking, but still abiding by the law of using traffic lights and the one way system. When you visit India, you are suddenly hit by the constant chaos, the population of the people, the cars and motorbikes, and the occasional quiff of smell in the air, also the cows, buffalos, dogs and goats roaming the streets. New Delhi is very modernised with the Metro system in place, thousands of people use it everyday, the most busiest is at 6pm, nobody wants to be on a train and get squashed like an ant at that time. Drove past The India Gate – which resembles the ‘Arc De Triomphe‘ in Paris. India Gate commemorates the 70,000 soldiers who lost their lives fighting for the British Army during World War I. The memorial bears the names of more than 13,516 British and Indian soldiers killed in the Northwestern Frontier in the Afghan war of 1919.
Next to past was the Red Fort – situated in Old Delhi, it is the focal point of modern India and attracts a major crowd on each Independence Day. It was a real shame the bus didn’t stop at these major hot spots. History is what makes India so special.
Along the drive we went past the Indian Crown Courts, Parliament House, Gandhi Museum and the Indian Wall Street. Stopping at Jama Masjid the great and largest mosque in Old Delhi, with a courtyard capable of holding 25,000 devotees. The highly decorative mosque has three great gates, four towers, and two 40m high minarets constructed of stripes, red sandstone and white marble. I had to cover up fully, so robes were provided to me prior entering, dress like a local without feeling like an outsider.
After visiting the Jama Masjid, riding on the bicycle tuk tuks was quite an experience, the strength of one small man pulling two ladies isn’t an easy job. We went round the block of Chandni Chowk seeing the sights of the food markets, street stalls, jewellery shops and the hanging cables. The road was very uneven, had pot holes everywhere, I think I lost quite a few brain cells with the constant bashing into the side rails. A must if you are ever in India!
Dinner was at Park Balluchi, a lovely little restaurant, as there was a big crowd of us, they gave us the conservatory seating area. It was a mild chilly evening, a comparison from the afternoon heat. Park Balluchi is a flagship fine dining restaurant with beautiful natural surroundings with lush greenery all around the place. The cuisine was Hyderabadi, Awadhi and Punjabi. A selection of white and red wine was on constant rotation, never short of a breath as was the water. One by one a waiter came and served me food, one piece at a time, the accompaniments were placed on the table first of chutneys and poppadams. First came the baby chicken, juicy, tender and fell off the bone easily, followed by that was paneer archari tikka – soft cheese cooked in a big open tandoor. Flame grilled banarsi seekh kebabs, the fire still burning from the skewer which was in the chefs hand was awesome. So lovely, could definitely taste the chalky charcoal and the tenderised meat. The rest of the meal was fabulous, it was every foodies dream, the rich curry flavours exploded in my mouth, the homemade naan accompanied with the rice and daals. The salads, chutneys and the dessert was superb and the service was tremendous.
The APEDA (Agricultural and Processed Food Products Export development Authority) ‘Basmati for the World 2011′ food conference took place in the conference hall of the hotel. A spacious setting for very few people. A lesson in the finest Indian Basmati Rice. It was a rather dramatic event, the Minister of Commerce and Industry Anand Sharma lit the diva and all of a sudden the Darude house anthem came on, consisting of a lot of bass and thumping.
A life lesson in Basmati: ‘Bas’ means ‘Aroma’, ‘Mati’ means ‘Full of’. Around the world there are 10,000 varieties of rice, and yet Basmati does stand out as the most gourmet of them. It offers an amazing sweet fragrance, an unmistakeable yet delicate taste, almost nutty. It is also quite easy to differentiate, a number of rice’s are sticky, but this isn’t. Each grain is perfectly separated from the other. I heard it was once used in the household of the ‘Raja’s and Rani’s’ of India, now its just as special as its used in every household, ‘King in the Indian Rice Basket’.
Basmati is a versatile long grain of rice, can be used in almost anything, I saw and tasted many dishes made by the international chefs at the Chefs Conclave, such as Puff Basmati Rice with Star Anise Custard by Matt Edmonds. It was very delicious, the rice without the custard had like a sweet, coconut taste, once the custard was poured on top, the star anise flavour bursted out, it reminded me of liquorice in a bowl of rice. Perfect for a dessert or a snack even. Basmati Rice Risotto by David Charles Fenton was intricate, delicate in taste and the long grain of rice tasted heavenly. Once you have experienced its fragrance or taste, it is one engrained in your memory and you can recognise its aroma as soon as you are in its vicinity.
The Basmati Coffee Table Book was launched during the ceremony, edited by Shilpi Gupta – Head Chef at The Grand. The book gives an outline of the rice and many recipes such as Thai Basil Fried Rice by Shilpi Gupta, French Rice Ball Fritters by Lionel Levy, Candid Prunes in Red Wine Stuffed With Vanilla Rice Pudding, Italian Style Basmati Risotto in Pizza Calzone by Alfonso Lomanco, and many more to get your taste buds tantalising. The book is a great idea for someone who needs inspiration, recipes from India, Europe, Eurasia and America, you simply wouldn’t want to leave your kitchen.
Went to a tourist market called ‘Dilli Haat’ its a very pricey market, almost like a fake take on a real market. They have wooden carved tables and animals, pashmina shawls, bags, bangles and shoes. Every other stall is selling the same thing but for a higher price. Even if you try to bargain they still won’t shift, so really its much easier to buy from a fixed price shop than it is from Dilli Haat. There wasn’t really much to see, I was rather disappointed as the trip didn’t consist of anything original.
The Taj Mahal was definitely one of the best highlights of the trip. It took 5 hours to get there from the hotel leaving at 7:30am, the tour guide Poonam was really good at explaining the significance and why it was build. Along the journey I saw snake charmers, performing monkeys and vast land of green fields. The constant honking and overtaking is what makes India so lively. Upon reaching Agra, the temperatures were exhilarating hot reached about 28 degrees. Agra is a city on the banks of the River Yamuna in the northern state of Uttar Pradesh.
Taj Mahal is one of the most famous buildings in the world, the mausoleum of Shah Jahan’s favourite wife Mumtaz Mahal. It is one of the seven wonders of the world, and one of three World Heritage Sites in Agra.
Completed in 1653, the Taj Mahal was built by the Mughal Shah Jahan as a resting place for his beloved wife. Finished in white marble, this perfectly symmetrical monument took 22 years of labour and 20,000 worker, masons and jewellers to build and is set amidst the landscaped gardens. Built by the Persian architect Ustad Isa, the Taj Mahal stands majestically on the banks of the River Yamuna, the synonymous of love and romance.
My thought whilst watching the Taj is the immeasurable beauty, glistening in the sun, the exquisite ornamentation and its picturesque location. From afar it looks so tiny but up close its a postcard brought to life. Everything I have ever imagined!
Words and images Priya Kerai
BELFAST – SHOPPING, MUSIC AND FASHION
FASHION, MUSIC, SHOPPING, CULTURE, HOSPITALITY… WHAT MORE COULD ONE WANT FROM LOVELY BELFAST. A CITY SO SMALL BUT VIBRANT, IT WILL SIMPLY TAKE YOUR BREATH AWAY!
A weekend getaway to Belfast was on the cards. Flying from London Stanstead on Bmibaby. The journey to and fro was 55 minutes. Landing at Belfast City Airport was quick and efficient. The service on board Bmibaby was very good, the seats are spacious and the leg room is wide which is enough room for your handbag.
Fitzwilliam is a 5 star hotel located in the heart of Belfast, a unique gem of contemporary living. The hotel’s chic relaxed style is reflected in it’s service policy which is friendly and efficient, yet discreet and unobtrusive. As I entered, I was greeted by the Concierge team, check in was very easy, grabbed the key and off I went. As soon as I entered my room, I was amazed, it took my breath away. The room was quite airy with a personal sanctuary feel to it with relaxation in mind. Wonderfully comfortable beds draped in crisp white Egyptian linen, power showers and relaxing baths, designer toiletries to ensure you have a sublime stay. Bathroom is enticed with a large mirror, a walk in shower and a nice comfortable bathtub. The dresser is equipped with the essentials, I was greeted by a nice bottle of wine and dark chocolates. If you like spacious fashionable surroundings then the Fitzwilliam is definitely for you.
Later that evening pre dinner drinks and canapes were on the cards at the bar. Champagne, French Raspberry Martinis, Kiwi Bellini’s and Canapes were on the table before I could say a word. Each had an exquisite taste and the bar staff were great. Dinner was planned at Menu Restaurant, menu overseen by Michelin Star-Restauranteur Kevin Thornton. The décor was high class, as soon as I stepped out of the elevator I knew I had entered fine dining. The menu looked mouth watering, the staff were very attentive, it was a joy to sit where they took note of everything you wanted. For starters I opted for Roast Garlic and Fennel Veloute which was a soup, very rich and creamy with basil pesto swimming on top, to follow I opted for Raviolo of Mozzarella, Ragout of Roma Tomatoes, Confit Fennel and Roast Red Capsicum, the presentation was a delight, a work of art, I almost didn’t want to ruin the presentation. But as I was so hungry I dived in, and the flavours exploded in my mouth, a warm abundance of the red capsicum, the fennel almost aniseed like complimented the mozzarella well. Water was flowing and the wine too, never short of a dry mouth. The dessert menu was so vast, I decided to go for the most colourful fruity option of Pineapple Carpaccio Passion Fruit Sorbet and Coconut Ice cream, it was like sunshine on a plate, wow!
After dinner I headed out to The Crown Liquor Saloon, a traditional irish pub, the décor inside was superficial. I was told the ceilings are black due to the smokers, they tried cleaning it and it looked so horrible underneath that they decided to leave it as it was. The floor was laid in mosaic tiles, vigorous wood carvings throughout, ornate mirrors, wooden columns with Corinthian capitals and feathered motifs in gold. Painted and etched glass is everywhere you look. The long red granite topped bar is divided by columns and faced with coloured tiles.
Saturday was about strictly shopping and more food. I received a nice goodie bag of Matilda and Archer Travel products. I headed off to Una Rodden Couture on Upper Arthur Street, the dresses, jewellery were all so gorgeous. Headwear and Jewellery by bridal designer Catherine B were simply mystical, a bride-to be would be so lucky to have a custom handmade one off piece by Catherine. Also featured in the shop is Grainne Maher Millinery – bespoke headwear from a range of couture hats, fascinators, tiaras and corsages.
I love chocolate so when I went to Co Couture I was in absolute heaven. I tried four different kinds of chocolates, from solid dark coco to the finest smooth french beans. I was easily stimulated, the aromas were hitting the back of my throat. If you love all things chocolate from drinking to cooking to eating, and want that something extra special, Co Couture is the place to go, you won’t be left disappointed.
Once I had a little taste of Co Couture I headed off to St Georges Food, Craft and Antique Market in the Town Centre. As I walked in, my nose caught the quiff air of fish, and that smell literally makes me sick, so I had to hold my nose. Walked around and came across different stalls of food, sweets, drinks, jewellery, clothes etc. The stall that took my fancy was the Sweet Trees and the Glass Bottle Stall. A nice cultural shock to see a jazz band playing beautiful mellow tones and people sitting, eating with friends and family, a nice community coming together.
Any girl loves jewellery and the weird and wonderful things in life, Stray is for you, like it is definitely for me too. Stray is a cute quirky shop offering hand-crafted jewellery, owned by Julie Stray. Stray has a range of costume jewellery, fun gifts for quirky kids, sweet stuff for your home, weird ‘n’ wonderful stationery, and those pieces that will make you stand out from the crowd, because no body likes a sheep. It’s definitely a stand out from the usual boring high street shops.
I went inside Victoria Square Shopping Centre and went straight to the top of the dome, if you are scared of heights this isn’t for you, but I must say the 360 degree panoramic views are amazing, took the elevator right to the top floor and once I descended out I saw what was truly stunning.
Situated in the town centre on Arthur Street was Avoca – a family run company that spans one of the world’s oldest surviving manufacturers and Ireland’s most exciting stores and cafes. The shop was beautifully decorated, felt as though I belong there as I walked in. Went upstairs to the cafe for lunch. The setting and atmosphere was calm yet lively, just the kind of atmosphere one needs after walking around the shops, a good place to put your feet up and chill. With wooden tables and seating areas, on the table was a jug of water with fresh mint inside, refreshing after a long morning. The lunch menu looked appetising, spoilt for choice as always. I opted for the Salt and Pepper Calamari with Lemon & Basil Mayonnaise and Sweet Chilli Dip, it was very yummy, presented on a wooden board, with a bit of green salad. After lining my stomach I wondered off to have a look around on the ground floor, I came across some porcelain china teapots, it reminded me of when I was a little girl, my grandmother would pour tea out of one every morning. Avoca looks to create colour, fun and style to seek out the interesting and the beautiful.
Next on the hotlist was Lizzie Agnew in the Fountain Centre on College Street. Lizzie makes fabulous vintage and antique style dresses and gowns from the most glamourous eras of the 1930s and the 1950s. Her studio was of a large size, her sewing machine so old school took me back to the days where my grandmother had one. I got to see the wonderful wedding, bridesmaid dresses and the beautiful veils and corsages. One of the most anticipated dress still under construction is the ‘Titanic Dress’, truly astonishing, cant wait to see the completed piece. Her showroom is every girl’s fantasy, gorgeous silk gowns and soft fabrics.
I was looking forward to visiting Lisburn Road, it is one of the finest shopping districts in the UK, currently nominated for Best Fashion Street by Google Maps. With over 100 businesses catering for every taste, it has never been more diverse, exciting and appealing. As I went down the stairs of Bedeck I came across Jacob street, which is owned by stylist Maureen Collins. The boutique offers original and quirky alternatives to the high street. The boutique features an array of hand-picked designer jewellery, home accessories, ornate furniture, and desirable vintage clothing. Maureen has incredible taste, the boutique was wonderfully set out, I found the bird cages and head fascinators lovely, its affordable glamour. Definitely one of my favourite vintage boutiques.
Last stop was Innocent Chaos created by local textile artist Sharon Hay. Innocent Chaos is a fashion and jewellery range that speaks of a world almost forgotten in adulthood. It’s a collection of bespoke jewellery designed to add a sense of playfulness and excitement to every outfit. Although it was a small studio, it had some of her best work, like the custom designed shoes, bridal brooches and vintage bouquets made out of buttons.
After a tiring day, dinner was at Love and Death located on the high street. The interior was simple, I did like the hanging bicycle from the ceiling, I started the night off with a Strawberry Daiquiri, the food menu was simple yet mouth watering. My eyes went straight to the Goats Cheese in Beetroot with Honey Glazed Walnuts and for mains the Fancy Fish and Chips. Presentation of both dishes were phenomenal, the goats cheese looked ravishing, and the fancy fish and chips on a wooden board, chips presented in a little cup like you get when your on the beach. The Goats cheese in Beetroot was very tasty, the flavours created an explosion, not too sweet or bitter, just cleansed my palette well before having the fish and chips. I would highly recommend both dishes, they weren’t too filling so had room for dessert. For dessert I opted for the Apple Tart with Peanut Butter Ice Cream and White Chocolate Parfait. My taste-buds were in overdrive. The staff were a delight, the food went down well and the drinks were flowing. Love and death is the kind of place that appeals to foodies, clubbers, live music lovers and cocktail drinkers.
My last day in Belfast, I wasn’t looking forward to going back to London. I was very excited about the Spa appointment at the Merchant Hotel. I needed to relax and unwind after two long days. As I arrived I was taken down the spirally wooden steps, unwinding to the basement where it was dark and airy. Sat down on the big white comfy chair to do a quick consult. As I dipped into the hydrotherapy pool the bubbles and the force came gushing towards me, it felt wonderful and I felt relaxed and calm, the stress was released and I went into zen mode. Next on my list was the sauna, as I love heat, it was perfect for me to just sit and relax and not think about anything. It was an incredible experience, the only downfall was the hotbeds weren’t hot enough. I was called for my 25 minute back massage by Carol, my masseuse, she was friendly and attentive to my needs, Carol used a chamomile and lavender herbal oil to de-stress and take out the knots on my upper back area. She applied medium pressure which I was very happy with. It felt as though a pile of bricks had been lifted off my shoulders and I could feel normal again. It was one of the best massages and spa experiences I’ve had.
After detoxing I was rather thirsty and hungry, so headed off to Berts Bar for a Jazz Brunch. Berts Bar is situated inside the Merchant Hotel and it encapsulates sleek elegance of the art-deco era, complimented by the very best in live jazz. It has a timeless setting transporting you back to the chic intimate jazz setting of 1930s New York. A French bistro style menu was presented to me, had a whizz through and chose the Portavogie Prawn Tagliatelle with chilli pistou, courgette, toasted pine nuts and garlic bread. It was the best option for me as it was light, fresh and gentle. The service was also exemplary.
It was a brilliant weekend in Belfast, highly recommended to anyone wanting a city break. The people are very friendly, and everything is literally at your doorstep. MTV EMA’s will be held at the Odyssey Arena on 6th November 2011. I would recommend visiting in April 2012 as the centenary of Titanic’s maiden voyage sees the opening of the the state-of-the-art six storey Titanic Belfast visitor attraction, built at the head of the slipways from which Titanic was built and launched.
INFORMATION
Low cost airline, bmibaby, offers daily flights to Belfast City Airport (just minutes from the city centre) from East Midlands Airport and Birmingham Airport and a frequent service from London Stanstead. Recently voted Best Low Cost Airline by the readers of Conde Nast Traveller, fares start from just £14.99 one way including taxes. For further information or to book a flight visit: www.bmibaby.com
I stayed at the Fitzwilliam Hotel on Great Victoria Street in the heart of Belfast City Centre. The designer hotel has a host of packages including Autumn offers from £120 per double room per night, breakfast and a 2-course evening meal: www.fitzwilliamhotelbelfast.com
For more information on what to see and do in Belfast, visit: www.gotobelfast.com
Katrina Doran Editor of Sugahfix.com
Sugahfix.com is Northern Ireland’s No.1 online guide to fashion, beauty, entertainment and style for fashion-conscious females. Winner of Best Blog at NISMA’s, Sugahfix.com is the go-to website to fill up your social calendar and get inspired with ideas on what to wear. Visitors to Belfast should check out Sugahfix.com’s Style section to get an insight into the style of Belfast fashionistas. The VIP Directory is a must to plan your shopping trips for all the best boutiques, indulgent spas, top salons and the sweetest treats, as well as current discounts and special offers. Log onto www.sugahfix.com
Words Priya Kerai
NICE HAS IT IN THE CANNES!
CANNES THE SOUTH OF FRANCES MOST CELEBRATED PLAYGROUND CAN BE REPRESENTED IN ONE WORD: INDULGENCE. ONCE THE SUMMER SUN STARTS TO HEAT ITS MEDITERRANEAN BEACHES, MEGA-YACHTS PACK INTO THE HARBOR, LUXURY ITALIAN CARS PROWL LA CROISETTE – THE CITY’S CLOSEST STREET TO THE BEACH. RICH INDUSTRIALISTS DISPENSE TENS OF THOUSANDS OF POUNDS ON BUBBLY IN A-LIST NIGHTCLUBS AND EVEN MORE IN DESIGNER BOUTIQUES THAT ARE IN ABUNDANCE AROUND THE TOWN CENTRE. RECENT YEARS HAVE SEEN NEW TYPES OF PAMPERING EXPLODE — NOT ALL OF THEM RESERVED FOR THE SEVEN-FIGURE SET — THANKS TO NEW HOTELS, PARTY SPOTS AND RESTAURANTS.
Whatever your income bracket, there’s a place to play in.
In May, Actors and film directors come here for the glory via flashes, on the red. If La Croisette, designer boutiques and its Palais des Festivals have given Cannes the international glory. The city, if you scratch the hollywoodian relatively new polish, hasn’t forgotten its humble past and its warm traditions. You need to visit the region when the 4500 journalists, 300 television networks, 200 press agents and 150 radio stations are away, before or after the festival and gets its real French character. In Cannes, the center of tourist activity is in fact the mythical boulevard de la Croisette that extends towards the East End from the new Palais des Festivals along the Rade de Cannes, with its fine beach. Luxury boutiques and pretty buildings dating from the Belle Époque period dominate that boulevard.
Le Suquet area
Climb up and around through the narrow cobbled streets, towards the hill, topped by a medieval castle (now Musée de la Castre). That 15-20 minute effort will be rewarded by the astonishing views of the famous city’s west end, the port, the Croisette and Palais des Festivals and even the mysterious Lérins islands.
WHAT TO SEE
Musée de la Castre and Sainte-Anne Chapel
The museum houses a remarkable variety of antiques –collected by the Baron Lycklama who left them to the city in 1877. You can discover the superb selection of antique music instruments from around the world and some great landscapes depicting 19th century Riviera before its Americanization. After that visit, I suggest you climb up the 109 stairs that leads you to the tower’s top terrace where you will get the perfect and unforgettable views of the city.
Marche Forville
The famous market is at the bottom of Le Suquet, so that could be where you are heading next, after the breathtaking views from the top of the hill. The market was first open in 1870 (although it has been refurbished in the 1930’s, explaining its Art Deco feel) and is called “Le Ventre de Cannes” or “Cannes’s Belly” is open the mornings, up until the early afternoon. The glamour and the glitz from La Croisette is nowhere to be seen here, where a typically French showcase of tasty things, with no frill takes place. You will encounter la joie de vivre at its best and the produce that comes with it, without Prada and co. No Ferraris here but some darn good cheeses and tasty olives!
Lérins Islands
Saint-Honorat Island and Sainte-Marguerite Island offers a monastery where the monks sell their own wine with a worldwide’ reputation of quality. Saint-Cézaire in white and Saint-Sauveur in red are now on the best tables in France (40 to 50 Euros a bottle). To protect the monastery, a fortress was built in the medieval times and now houses the Musée de la Mer and Fort Royal. Originally built as a castle, turned into a citadel and finally a State Prison where the enigmatic Iron Mask , the supposedly twin brother of Louis XIV was jailed. Ferry excursions takes 15 min for Saint-Honorat Island and 30 min for Sainte-Marguerite Island and no motors are tolerated there, only pedestrians.
WHERE TO EAT
Fouquet’s restaurant
Try the upscale brasserie tradition with a Mediterranean touch.
La Petite Maison
Offers French and Japanese cuisine à la carte.
24 - Suquet
Try the fine and creative food with a cosy atmosphere.
WHERE TO STAY
Majestic Barriere Hotel
A great French Riviera’s gem, in addition with the refined décors and the hi-tech equipment, this five stars hotel offers an excellent deluxe service and has a dream location on La Croisette. After its stupendous extension, the Majestic Barrière now offers 44 new apartments, two penthouses, which joins the 305 existing rooms and suites (that were revamping 2 years ago). This hotel is a member of ‘The Leading Hotels of the World’.
Lucien Barrière and Christian Dior have a long-standing relationship and are both devoted to luxury and French elegance. Majestic Barrière values the grand couturier all the more given that every year during the Cannes Film Festival Christian Dior always books one of the best suites in the hotel. In the dining room paved with stone and Hungary parquet, the rotunda cleverly recalls the ceiling of the famous Dior boutique on Avenue Montaigne in Paris and the huge Louis 16th table is surrounded by the legendary grey and silver medallion chairs. The cushions on the sofa in the lounge bear the same historical folded pattern as the Dior emblem and are of the same shade of bright red (Rouge Eclatant) created by Christian Dior himself in 1947. The bedrooms are a tribute to the boutique rooms on Avenue Montaigne with the same shades of grey, Pullman armchairs, cane-work bed-heads and a perfect copy of the original Monsieur Dior’s desk.
MOUGINS
Escape to the country, only 15 minutes away from Cannes, in the town Picasso choose to call home for the last 15 years of his life. This superb medieval village is a gem set amongst the paradisiacal mountains, cypress, pines and olive trees. The village is surrounded by a lush forest covering nearly 430 hectares and was successful in preserving the quality of its environment intact. Because of its dream location, the tranquility or its links with the art and cultural world, many celebrities have chosen to establish themselves here in Mougins (Fernand Léger, Man Ray, Jacques Brel, Christian Dior, Jean Cocteau and Catherine Deneuve all have properties in the communauté)
WHAT TO DO
Visit the old town and fountains, St-Jacques-Le-Majeur church, St-Barthélemy Chapel, as well as the very worthwhile Photography Museum. You can stroll across the small narrow streets to discover the many galleries and art studios. International Festival of Gastronomy – Les Étoiles de Mougins – A key event in French and foreign gastronomy, the festival gathers the finest chefs each year in September.
WHERE TO STAY
Royal Mougins Golf Resort
Outstanding geographical situation as well as its perfect integration into the natural setting, this recent 4 stars deluxe hotel is unique with its 29 suites with huge private terraces with stunning views of the enchanting surroundings. This is the paradise on earth.
NICE
If Cannes has a cute fishermen village vibe, Nice has an incredible city energy, only few miles away. Nice is cheerful and bustling, dynamic and passionate. I was absolutely taken by its beauty and made my mind on which city in Côte d’Azur was my favorite… by a mile!
Start your visit of Nice with Place Massena that was built in the 1840’s with pretty arcaded buildings painted in Pompeian red that reminded me how close Italy was from there. Three years ago, the Spanish artist Jaume Plensa installed his 7 statues –that looks like modern, slim and young buddhas- all facing the Place. That installation is titled ‘Conversation in Nice’ and represents the 7 continents. 
You will be pleasantly surprised to know that Nice has kept its dialect called the Nissard. This language is very much alive and because of the dynamism of cultural association, the dialect – part of the Occitan linguistic family – is being taught to the younger generation. Nissard’s vocabulary is essentially drawn from Latin, spoken by the Roman colonists who built the city of Cemenelum. All streets names and touristic signs are including the dialect. Walk towards the famous Promenade des Anglais. The seaside road is always crowded but never dirty, always kept immaculate and follows the harmonious curvy Baie des Anges. Originally, the footpath was no more that 6 feet wide and was widened by Englishman, Lewis Way with his own pocket money, in 1820 – the path was then nicknamed ‘Chemin des Anglais’. From La Promenade, go towards the hill, called Castle Hill, that is what’s left from the site of the first town founded by the Greeks, then the first medieval town. Only a fragment of wall was kept as well as few foundations but the unique views from the top terrace a enough to stop moaning about what’s left from the Greeks. When you go back down that hill, you will end up in the heart of the Old Nice. Old Nice contains about 600 shops. Many boutiques offer local specialities and typical gifts. Narrow streets and baroque churches will mesmerize your spirits and fill your eyes with unspoiled beauty and probably make you walk slower! Stop at the very picturesque Flower Market at Cours Selaya and have a little snack by trying the Nicois speciality; the Socca. The flat cake made from chickpea flour and olive oil, baked on a huge cast iron pan, will filled your empty stomach and you will be delighted, ready to carry on your extended walk through the city. Here are few of the must-see sights:
THINGS TO SEE
Matisse Museum
A 17th century villa houses the personal collection of the painter who lived in Nice from 1917 until his death, in 1954. It offers a great panorama on his career, covering all periods – including his very first painting made in 1890, the gouache cut-outs as well as hundreds of drawings and prints.
Museum of Archeology and Nice-Cemenelum
Cemenelum was declared capital of Alpes Maritimae, an ancient Roman Province, in 14 BC by the Emperor Augustus. The ruins that can be visited include the great amphitheatre that could seat about 5000, baths, some paved streets (3rd century AD) and a Palaeo-Christian complex (5th century AD). The visit of these ruins were definitely the highlight of my whole trip! The museum was open in 1989 and displays a great collection of ceramics, glass, jewellery, coins, sculptures and tools from the Bronze Age to the Middle Ages.
Cours Saleya Flower Market
Go early and smell the local soaps and colourful flowers. Every morning from 6, except Mondays. 
Tête Carrée
Designed by the sculptor Sacha Sosno, the ‘Square Head’ is the key symbol of the city’s contemporary achitecture with its 30 metres high and 14 metres wide, this impressive monument is open to the public.
WHERE TO EAT
L’Aphrodite
Be prepared to discover the French version of Heston Blumenthal’s experimentations with the use of liquid nitrogen in the newly awarded Michelin red guide star David Faure’ cuisine. restaurant-aphrodite.com
L’Oliviera
Sample all different types of olive oils with regional cuisine. The friendly restaurateur will give you advice on how to flatter your dish with the perfect wine combination.
Le Patio
Chef Pascal Gorris’s use of local fresh produce works magically well and makes you believe in the superiority of French’s culinary talents.
hôtel-la-pérouse.com/en/bar-restaurant/
WHERE TO STAY
Boscolo Exedra Nice
This stylish, quirky and white hotel (inside and out) has everything to offer for the best stay in the city, including the location and trendiness. 10 min walk from the seafront and railway station.
HOW TO GET AROUND
Vélo Bleu (Bicycle rental)
One thousand bicycles are provided for self-service rental in Nice. First 30 min of use is free but rental cannot exceed 24 hours.
Segway
Personal Transporter is the environmentally friendly way to be seeing the city without any effort. The Segway offers fun and a modern and unique experience.
HOW TO GET THERE
Cheap flights to Nice from Liverpool John Lennon Airport and London Gatwick
All the info you need on France and the Cote d’Azur:
franceguide.com / www.frenchriviera-tourism.com
Words and images Vincent Bernier
TUNISIA TRAVEL
WHEN THE TUNISIAN REVOLUTION KICKED OFF JUST A FEW MONTHS AGO, NO ONE KNEW WHAT WAS GOING TO HAPPEN TO THIS BEAUTIFUL NORTH AFRICAN NATION. BUT SINCE PRESIDENT BEN ALI STEPPED DOWN FROM POWER, THE COUNTRY HAS BEEN TRYING TO GET BACK ON ITS FEET. AND NOW, TUNISIA IS RE-ESTABLISHING ITS CLAIM TO BEING THE BEAUTIFUL AND HISTORICAL COUNTRY IT ALWAYS WAS, AND HAS ALWAYS BEEN.
While Morocco has been the destination on everyone’s lips over the last few years, Tunisia was originally the North African nation to visit. Its long stretches of golden beaches and incredible vista of Atlas mountains pulled in tourists long before Marrakech became the ‘it’ place to be seen and the coastal resort of Agadir filled with British holidaymakers holding a fruit cocktail in their palms. In fact, its popularity was far superior to its neighbouring country in years gone by and it was probably in its prime when our parents were jaunting around the world, just as we do now.
But this isn’t about what Tunisia was. It isn’t even about what it is. It’s about what it is going to become. While there is a lot of sadness associated with the destruction caused by the revolution, there is even more hope and ambition. Over the next few years, this country will become increasingly liberated and free; and it will once again regain its stature in the tourist world.
And indeed it should. While many people journey as much as 24 hours for the promise of sunshine – and I myself hold my hands up to this – Tunisia is merely a three-hour flight away. What’s more, you don’t have to fight for space on the beach like you do if you visit other popular European countries blessed with the Mediterranean Sea, as the country’s long coastline means there’s plenty of sand to go around.
One of the best places to visit if you’re looking to catch some rays and relax on the beach is Hammamet. Quieter than other seaside resorts, this is in an excellent position if you want to visit other areas of the country as it is only a short journey away from the capital Tunis, alternative coastal villages and the Atlas Mountains.
This is one of the first things you’ll notice as you recline on your secluded beach. The panorama of the mountain range in the distance shows the powerful peaks protectively overlooking the sea, while you soak up the sun and take deep breaths of the clean coastal air.
But if you’re planning to do more than simply sit on a deckchair, then Hammamet – or the “Garden of Tunisia” – is a great place for you to get a good insight into this country. Our first port of call was the Medina in the Old Town and this is a site not to miss.
Overlooking the shore, the Medina is situated in an amber-coloured stone fort, with high and impenetrable walls that make it look bold and imposing to any unwanted visitors. Inside the fortress, it is now slightly more inviting to tourists and you’ll notice the blossoming fig trees and pretty plants in its courtyard, while you can get excellent views of the bay, lined with fishing boats, from the top.
There are a few market shops inside as well, where you’ll find rows of leather sandals piled on top of each other, neatly packed in next to decorated tagines and ornamental bowls.
But the best place to experience the Arabic souk-style stalls is in the Yasmine Medina, where you can walk through a maze of shops stocking shisha pipes, mint tea sets, mosaics, lanterns and leather poufs. If you’re like me, you won’t resist buying a couple of items to bring home with you or you’ll be coaxed into buying them by a sweet talking salesman.
The Yasmine Medina is also a great place to try some of Tunisia’s local cuisine and you can choose from the many cafes in the area to enjoy some pastries while sipping on refreshing and sugary mint tea, soaking up the sweet aromas of shisha smoke floating in the air. And you’re bound to need something to cool you down as temperatures reach an average of 35 degrees Celsius in July and August, which means Tunisia can give Greece and Spain a run for their money in the sunshine stakes.
And when the weather is good, you can take part in a number of boat trips or water sports to make the most of the sunshine. There are windsurfing, sailing and jet skiing opportunities during peak season while you can venture out on organised trips in catamarans if you’d rather soak up the sun on the sea.
If you fancy heading further afield, then Hammamet is a good place to take an adventure into the Sahara desert. Just a few hours away, this is one of the biggest reasons why people are attracted to Tunisia. Hotels organise two and three-day excursions into the golden desert, pictured famously in movies such as The English Patient and Star Wars. Indeed, there are likely to be a few Star Wars enthusiasts in Tunisia at any one time as you can take specific tours around the country to see where scenes were filmed.
During these daytrips, you’ll have the chance to take a look at some of Tunisia’s ancient history and El Jem is one of the most spectacular ruins to see. The amphitheatre remains are almost as impressive as those at Rome’s Coliseum and it has been around for nearly 2,000 years. In fact, Tunisia’s history is so incredibly rich and varied that you won’t tire learning about its Roman heritage and seeing remnants of its past.
But to understand how some of its ancient customs are still practised, a trip into the desert could be a good idea. As you take a camel trip past the salt lakes of Chott el Jerid – where the crystal sandy terrain creates uncanny mirages in the distance – you can see Bedouin trekking in the distance, walking towards the illusion of a refreshing pool of water that has confused many others in the past. These tribes have called the desert their home for generations and as they lead their livestock over the sand dunes, covering their faces to shield their eyes from the burning sun, they are not about to let go of their traditions and lifestyles just yet.
However, they have learnt to adapt to the desert and oases have turned into modern functioning towns, which offer much-needed amenities during a Sahara adventure.
But if there’s one place you need to visit to find the ‘real’ Tunisia then it’s Sidi Bou Said. Located just a short drive from Tunis, this is a perfect stop after a drop into the busy, hectic city. Instead of high-rise buildings and dusty streets, Sidi Bou Said is a beautiful village that dates back to the 12th century.
It has been a popular place for many artists over the years, and it’s not hard to see why as its bold blue and crisp white buildings make this hillside location one of the most striking I’ve ever seen. Walking through the cobbled streets, taking a peek at the empty quiet alleyways that have a turquoise blue archway at the end, Sidi Bou Said reminds me of strolling through a Greek coastal town. But as this is Tunisia, you can expect to step into these little azure-coloured doors to find a huge selection of souvenirs to take home with you.
And, if you’re like me, you’ll find yourself with fruit bowls and hand-stitched bags before you know it, striking up bargains with the friendly salesmen in between taking artistic shots of this picturesque town (or at least trying to).
There are so many shades to Tunisia; it’s hard to sum it up with a picture of its golden deserts, its sand-coloured forts and its blue and white towns. But the best way to understand the North African nation, is simply to see it for yourself.
January’s revolution has changed the face of this country, but for the better. There are so many experiences to be had in Tunisia and so many things to see; now is the time to come back to this coastal nation and see everything it has to offer. It has once again opened its doors for you to visit again – so what are you waiting for?
HOW TO GET THERE
Tunisair offer weekly flights from Manchester to Monastir from just £170 return, including taxes. For more information or to book call 020 7734 7644 or go to www.tunisair.com.
WHERE TO STAY
Rooms at the 5* Hasdrubal Thalassa & Spa Hammamet start from £178 per night, based on two sharing on a bed and breakfast basis. For more information or to book go to www.hasdrubal-thalassa.com
OTHER PLACES TO VISIT
Friguia Animal Park & Delphinarium – Experience an African safari at the animal park or head to the dolphin pool, where you can watch the mammals jump through hoops or even have a chance to swim with them. A favourite with kids!
The Ribat of Monastir - A 8th century fort on the Mediterranean coastline in the city of Monastir.
MORE INFORMATION
For all your travel needs and for information on what’s happening in Tunisia go to www.cometotunisia.co.uk
Words Natasha Al-Atassi
FESTIVAL BEAUREGARD
NOT YET AS WELL-KNOWN AS GLASTONBURY OR READING, BUT GETTING MORE POPULAR EVERY YEAR, THE FESTIVAL BEAUREGARD OFFERS A GREAT OPPORTUNITY TO ENJOY A UNIQUE FEAST OF LIVE ACTS AND ALSO TO VISIT THE ROMANTIC NORMANDY REGION, TASTE THE EXQUISITE FRENCH CUISINE AND HAVE A GLASS OR TWO OF CALVADOS (APPLE BRANDY).
3 days, 2 stages, 1 castle… Festival Beauregard is a pop & rock affair where a total of 33 groups, from established bands to up-and-coming artists, get together to celebrate music, entertain and have a wild time.
The festival is near Caen, a vibrant and dynamic city that attracts visitors worldwide for its Romanesque architecture, numerous parks and gardens and attractive surrounding areas. The quickest way to get to Caen is by train on the Eurostar London to Paris and then two hours on the bus to Caen, but a more enjoyable way of travelling can be by ferry, from Portsmouth to Caen in around 7 hours.
Now, the last time I was on a ferry for such a long time I was 14. I took a ferry from Barcelona to Mallorca and for 8 dreadful hours I felt dizzy and seasick and I had to stay laying down on a sofa… But, to my delight, this time it was a very pleasant journey where I had time to sleep in my cabin, sunbathe, have lunch and relax. And not a sign of seasickness, total bliss!
After arriving to Caen, I head to the festival Beauregard where the band Pop The Fish is playing electronic songs mixed with an acoustic guitar. The atmosphere is vibrant but relaxed (probably because it’s early in the evening…) and everyone seems to be having a good time. There are two main stages and a castle at the entrance which make the location ooze French chic and rock & roll glamour. The next act is by the Male Performer of the Year, Gaetan Roussel, a talented singer and songwriter whose intense songs made the audience go crazy.
The next day I take part in a “treasure hunt” to discover the little secrets of the main districts of Caen’s historic centre. Despite the terrible bombings the city suffered on the 6th of June 1944, Caen has managed to preserve its magnificent architectural heritage and culture.
One of its main historic sites is the Caen Castle, built by William the Conqueror in the 11th century. This castle is the main symbol of Caen and one of the largest medieval enclosures in Europe. It’s currently being restored to enhance the site and develop cultural and museographical activities.
Along the back of the castle, there is a sculpture park which features fantastic (and kind of disturbing) animals created by the Chinese artist Yong Ying.
Caen is also well-known for its two abbeys: the Men’s Abbey and the Ladies’ Abbey. The Men’s Abbey, built in 1063, houses Romanesque and Gothic features and, in the heart of the church, you can contemplate the tomb of its founder. The Ladies’ Abbey is another great example of Norman Romanesque architecture and also includes the abbey church dedicated to the trinity and monastery buildings.
The best way to explore Caen is by walking through its narrow streets and old districts lined with lively shops, bars and restaurants. Classicism and modernity are a constant mix in this city where history can be found at every corner: half-timbered houses, private mansions and courtyards etc.
During the night, the quay, Quai Vendeuvre, is the place to be if you would like to enjoy a late night in a nightclub or in their charming cafes and pubs.
To enjoy pure French romanticism I head to Cabourg, a picturesque resort full of Belle Epoque villas and Anglo Norman mansions that will make you feel like stepping back to the France of the 1920s.
The first stop is at the restaurant Le Baligan where I enjoy a succulent plate of grilled sea bass, accompanied by a glass of white wine and a delicious crème brulee for dessert.
The Grand Hotel is Cabourg’s most emblematic building and where the famous writer Marcell Proust found the inspiration to write his masterpiece ‘In remembrance of the things past’. Nowadays, many French movies and series are shot inside its sophisticated interiors and it’s a very popular hotel amongst actors, musicians and la crème de la crème of French society.
Cabourg’s golden period was at the end of the 19th century when sea bathing became fashionable. Its 3 kms of fine sandy beaches, spectacular promenade, elegant villas made of limestone and brick, refurbished casino and stylish boulevards make Cabourg the most elegant and cosmopolitan place in the Normandy region.
Cabourg is also renowned for its Film Festival which, since 1983, has attracted the biggest names in European and international cinema. This year, for its 25th anniversary, the festival celebrated love, passion and romance.
After Cabourg, I go back to Caen to have dinner at the restaurant El Olivo, where I try for the first time tartare de boeuf. My first impression when I see this enormous dish of raw beef with a raw egg in the middle is frightening but once I try it, I realise it definitely tastes much better than it looks. French food is truly delightful and it’s difficult to get a wrong dish wherever you go.
The second night at the festival brought on the charismatic duo, Aaron, formed in 2004 by actor Simon Buret and musician Olivier Coursier, who played electro pop ballads mixed with rock influences, followed by the legendary Texan group Zz Top. Their iconic long beards, Stetson hats and cowboy boots were seen for the first time in Normandy and didn’t disappoint. Their electrifying performance, powerful voices and unique image captivated the audience, who embraced the rock and roll spirit and didn’t stop dancing.
The French love wandering through markets so I follow the French way of life browsing the local market in Caen, where you can find fresh vegetables and fruits, local specialties, Calvados, the finest cheese… The best day to visit the market is on Sunday morning.
Golf is becoming a very popular sport in France so I decide to pay a visit to the latest golf club opened in Caen three months ago: The Golf Compact de Louvigny, which offers a new generation in golf practice thanks to its eco-friendly synthetic greens. I have only played golf twice in my life and I am not a golf –lover but the short course (a 6-hole course including both par 3 and par 4 holes, along with a 28-bay range) provided by this club is an excellent introduction to learn the basics or to improve your swing if you already are an experienced player.
The third day at the festival offered the dazzling performances of EELS, who played nostalgic yet provocative tunes from pop to jazz and blues, and The Kooks, whose catchy songs, roaring guitars and variety of styles (from reggae to soul, funky rhythms, rock and acoustic ballads) were a total success among the public.
After a hearty dinner at the restaurant Le Boeuf Ferre, where I enjoy a 5-course feast of crab, Calvados sorbet, rabbit, camembert and chocolate, I sail back to Portsmouth but it feels like a piece of my heart is still in Normandy. J’adore La France as the French would say. I’ll be back.
INFORMATION
- The Festival Beauregard is a 3-day musical event just outside Caen, in Herouville-Saint-Clair (from 1st to 3rd of July 2011). This year a 3-day pass cost 90 Euros. For more information visit: www.festivalbeauregard.com
- You can travel from Portsmouth to Caen by ferry from £89pp return. Please visit: www.brittanyferries.com
- To obtain more information about Normandy contact:
Normandy Tourist Board
00 33 (0)2 32 33 79 00
RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS AND ACCOMODATION
- Hotel Best Western La Mare o Poissons, www.lamareopoissons.fr
- Restaurant Le Baligan in Cabourg, www.lebaligan.fr
- Restaurant El Olivo in Caen
- Restaurant Le Triplex in Caen
- Restaurant Le Boeuf Ferre in Caen, www.boeuferre.com
CROATIA: A COUNTRY OF COLOUR, CULTURE AND CUISINE
FANCY A TASTE OF THE BEST SEAFOOD, AWARD WINNING WINES, ISLAND-HOPPING, MOUNTAIN WALKING AND SIGHTSEEING WITHOUT THE CROWDS? CROATIA MIGHT NOT BE THE FIRST COUNTRY THAT COMES TO MIND BUT ALL OF THIS AND MUCH MORE CAN BE EXPERIENCED IN THIS FASCINATING COUNTRY…
The Kvarner region is now more accessible from England thanks to Croatia Airlines, which since April, is operating direct flights from London Heathrow to Rijeka, the third largest city in Croatia, which attracts over 100,000 international visitors during its spectacular carnival in February.
As I land in Rijeka airport, I realise how little I know about Croatia so I am curious to discover Zagreb and explore the islands around the Kvarner Riviera. My first stop is in Krk, the oldest and largest island in Croatia and only 30kms from the city of Rijeka. Krk has been called the “Golden Island” because of its mild Mediterranean climate, geographical position and diversity of nature and culture.
Before visiting Krk town, I head to Vrbnik, a small peaceful town situated 48 metres above the sea, which offers spectacular panoramic views from the top of the hill. Vrbnik is a true traditional Mediterranean town with clustered houses and narrow streets; in fact, the town has the narrowest street in the world, only 43 centimetres wide. Vrbnik is the best known Croatian castle-town and is one of the strongest preservers of the Glagolitic heritage and spirituality.
Vrbnik also produces the celebrated “Vrbnicka Zlahtina” wine which I had the pleasure of sampling where it’s produced at the Nada winery, owned by the Juranic family. Nada offers a tasting of three types of brandy: Kmovica brandy, made from distilling over-fermented grape; Travarica brandy, white grappa with herbs; and Smokovaca brandy, made by distillation of semi-dry, fermented figs. The restaurant features Mediterranean food, with seafood cocktail, octopus and scampi risotto being the most popular dishes.
Krk town is famed for its summer festival which runs from June to mid-August featuring pop and classical music concerts, folk festivities, fishermen’s nights, summer sporting events and exhibitions staged at various locations around town. Krk was an important settlement during the Roman Empire and you still can see its Roman ruins in the city walls. Krk town has a lively nightlife especially at the Volsonis bar in the centre of the town which is a must-see. This unique cocktail bar is set amid Roman excavations, with exposed stonework and a sacrificial altar.
The best way to go island-hopping in Croatia is by ferry so I take one from Valbiska to Merag to visit the island of Mali Losinj. Regarded as the “Island of Vitality”, Mali Losinj has had a health tourism tradition for over 125 years. Due to its pleasant Mediterranean climate, clean sea and air, vegetation and aromatic scents, this island is the perfect place to relax your body and soul.
In Veli Losinj, I visit the Blue World Institute of Marine Research and Conservation (BWI), which is the first educational and interpretational centre about the marine environment on the Adriatic coast. The centre promotes interest in marine environment and its conservation, provides general public awareness activities and supports the local community through initiatives for local sustainable development.
The Blue World Education programme develops extracurricular activities for children, school pupils and university students, and also provides mentoring and teaching in graduate and postgraduate studies.
Since 2000, the BWI has been managing the Adriatic Dolphin Project (ADP), which studies and investigates the bottlenose dolphin population that frequent the archipelago of Losinj and Cres Islands.
The BWI offers the chance to participate in a volunteering programme and even adopt a dolphin.
After my visit, I enjoy a delicious lunch at the restaurant Konoba Corrado, where tuna carpaccio, marinated shrimps and grilled fish are its main specialties.
From Mali Losinj, I take the ferry (Porozina to Brestova) to reach the glamorous Opatija. This elegant town truly deserves to be named “The Queen of the Adriatic”. Its breathtaking buildings, magnificent parks and gardens and the immaculate exteriors of the houses have attracted visitors for more than 150 years.
In the past, wealthy men built stunning houses for their wives and that’s how Opatija started developing. Its first and most iconic hotel, “Hotel Kvarner”, was built in 1884 and still hosts the most important ceremonies and events in Opatija inside its well known “Crystal Hall”, a sumptuous room with beautiful crystal chandeliers.
Opatija has been the winter resort for the upper classes since the 19th century due to its mild climate. Within 50 kms of Opatija, you can ski on the mountain lakes in Gorski Kotar or swim in one of the dozens of islands scattered in the Kvarner, making it one of the few places in the Mediterranean where you can enjoy a mix of winter and summer holidays.
Opatija’s principle promenade, Lungomare, is 12 kms long, boasts numerous hotels, bars and restaurants, as well as, the Croatian version to the Hollywood Walk of Fame. It also connects five resorts on the Opatija Riviera: Volosko, Opatija, Icici, Ika and Lovran and is the perfect place to combine a stroll along the beach with a spot of people-watching.
Opatija is also considered a great wellness resort during the winter months with March being specifically dedicated to wellness. Besides, it’s one of the trendiest places in Croatia as major events, concerts and ceremonies are often celebrated at its famous Open Air Theatre.
For dinner, I went to the restaurant Mali Raj, which means “little paradise”, with its fabulous terrace, tasty traditional Croatian food and spectacular sea views all combining to create an almost heavenly experience.
From Opatija, my next stop is the island of Rab, which I reach by ferry (Jablanac-Misnjak).
Rab is one of the greenest and most picturesque islands in the Adriatic sea. Rab town is full of medieval buildings built under the Venetian rule during the 13th century and also churches and monasteries, which represent not only religious tradition but also cultural, artistic and architectural achievement.
The waterfront offers striking panoramic views and has become a meeting point for the locals and tourists alike. Rab is structured around three straight streets that run parallel to the sea, named Lower Street, Upper Street and Middle Street.
Rab’s four bell towers are particularly striking and the main symbol of the island. The Old Town boasts numerous cobbled streets which are lined with beautiful palaces and Romanesque churches, such as the Cathedral of St. Mary, the largest church in town, built upon ancient Roman ruins.
Rab’s coastline offers a vast array of enchanting beaches: whether you prefer stony, sandy or even naturist beaches, Rab’s seaside has something for everyone.
The most typical products of the region are olive oil, lavender, honey and the rab cake, made with locally-produced almonds and Maraschino liqueur.
If you want to feel as if you are stepping back in time, you should visit Rab during the Medieval Games, organised, since 1995, by the Rab Crossbowmen’s Association. The crossbow was the weapon used by Rab men during the 11th century to protect the town. These games are held several times during the summer: Victory Day (9th of May), Croatia’s National Day (25th June), St Christopher’s Day (27th July) and the Day of the Assumption of Our Lady (15th August).
The main event is during the Medieval Summer Festival, from 25th to 27th of July, where celebrations are held to honour the patron saint of the town and thousands of people dress up in Renaissance costumes.
Before heading to Zagreb, I stop in Fuzine to visit the famous Vrelo cave. Fuzine is a pretty little town situated 730 metres above the sea level, in the south-western part of Gorski Kotar, and is known for its preserved nature, mild climate and natural beauty. If you get lucky, you might have the chance to observe one the 500 wild bears living in this area, especially during spring.
Vrelo, which means “spring of water”, is Fuzine’s main attraction due to its unusual and rare forms of cave formations (speleothems), which are caused by frequent oscillations of underground watercourse levels over the last 35,000 to 45,000 years. Particularly striking are the column called “Bishop” and a stalagmite named “Mother of God”.
Fuzine is well-known for its gastronomic offerings. At the restaurant Bitoraj I tried some of their exquisite local dishes, such as game goulash, and tasted the region’s red wine, Plavac, and blueberry liqueur.
After Fuzine, I head to Zagreb, the capital and largest city of Croatia, with approximately 1 million habitants. Zagreb has always been the cultural, economic and political centre of Croatia but when it came to tourism, cities such as Dubrovnik or Split remained more popular. In recent years, however, Zagreb has became a tourist spot in its own right due to its Baroque architecture, charming markets, rich historical and cultural heritage and laid-back spirit.
Zagreb’s heart and main square is Ban Jelacic, the meeting point for Croatians and tourists, displays a variety of architectural styles, the famous statue of Ban Josip Jelacic (a general in the Austrian army and governor of Croatia from 1848-59) and the Mandusevac fountain, which provided drinking water until the end of the 19th century.
One of Zagreb’s defining symbols is the stunning Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, situated in the upper town of the city. The cathedral dominates the Zagreb skyline with its slender 105-metre-high towers. The cathedral’s defensive walls are among the best-preserved Renaissance defences in Europe and were built in the 16th century to defend from the Ottoman Turks.
St Catherine’s Church, known as “the Barbie Church” due to its pink walls and baroque style is the most beautiful in Zagreb and the most popular in which to get married.
Krvavi Most, the “Bloody Bridge”, is most notable for not being a bridge, but a street. In fact, it was originally a bridge before being torn down in 1899 during violent battles.
The best way to experience Zagreb is on foot, but if you are feeling romantic, you can take the funicular, the shortest one in the world used for public transport – from Ilica you will reach the Upper Town in 55 seconds!
Skalinska to Tkalciceva is a pedestrian street full of bars and restaurants and the favourite place to hang out for Croatians, with a relaxed vibe and the finest Croatian food, wines and beer.
For fashion lovers, the Croatian version of Oxford Street is Donji Grad, in the Lower Town, where you will find the latest international and Croatian brands and designer stores. This street is the perfect place to buy a tie, the must-have item and an authentic Croatian product, which the locals wear for good luck.
Zagreb also counts with more than 20 markets. The most visited and best known is Dolac, a daily indoor and outdoor market which offers the best products from all regions of Croatia at a reasonable price. Regarded as “the belly of Zagreb”, it’s a favourite amongst chefs and gourmets.
Zagreb enjoys a rich cultural life with museums such as Zagreb City Museum, Museum of Arts and Crafts, The Croatian Museum of Naive Art or The Museum of Contemporary Art. Having said that, I found The Museum of Broken Relationships especially interesting and amusing. This unique museum is a definite must-see if you are looking for something more quirky and unconventional.
After their break-up, a couple decided to make an exhibition with some of the objects and experiences they shared together and that’s how the museum developed initially. Since then, it has toured 20 cities worldwide amassing a truly overwhelming collection, that takes you into a highly emotional journey where regular people from all over the world share with brutal honesty objects and tales from failed relationships.
My last stop before leaving is Samobor, a small picturesque town dubbed the Zagrebian version of The Hamptons in New York. When Zagreb gets too hectic and stressed-out, Croatians come here to relax, enjoy local cakes and pastries and the beautiful medieval ambience.
Samobor is famous for its carnival, which takes place every February for two weeks and also for its custard slices and Bermet, an aperitif taken by Croatians before their meal.
As it’s been such great weather during my stay, I am not prepared for a rainy day in Samobor so I decide not to have a final walk around town, but it definitely looks like the perfect place to stroll along the river and enjoy the landscape surrounded by hills and mountains.
INFORMATION
- Croatia Airlines flies to Rijeka from London Heathrow in just over two hours. Prices start from £145.60 return, including taxes. London – Zagreb costs £110, including taxes.
For more information visit: www.croatiaairlines.com 0208 563 0022
- To obtain more information about Croatia contact:
Croatian National Tourist Office
0208 563 7979 - www.croatia.hr
ACCOMMODATION
Recommended hotels to stay in the Kvarner region:
- Krk: Hotel Koralj
- Opatija: Design Hotel Astoria
- Rab:Hotel Imperial
- Zagreb:Hotel Palace
Words Verónica Carpio Martín
THE LUGGER HOTEL, PORTLOE
IT MAY ONLY BE A THIRD OF THE WAY THROUGH 2011 BUT I WAS ALREADY IN DESPERATE NEED OF SOME WELL-DESERVED ‘R AND R’ WHEN IN ONE OF MY RARE MOMENTS OF WEB SURFING DURING MY BUSY DAY, I CAME ACROSS PICTURES OF THE LUGGER HOTEL. TUCKED AWAY IN A SMALL CORNISH COVE, THE HOTEL’S QUINTESSENTIALLY BRITISH, WHITEWASHED BUILDING DATING FROM THE 17TH CENTURY ‘GOT ME AT HELLO’ AND I KNEW I HAD TO PAY A VISIT AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.
Bags packed, Satnav set and mobile phone off and in the bottom of my bag. Escaping the hustle and bustle of Manchester mid-week was no easy task but the drive down to the Cornish town of Portloe gave ample time for my cares to slip away.
As I arrived at the hotel, it was clear that I had made one of my better choices. Discretely perched by the sea, the Lugger Hotel with its old-world charm – seemingly unchanged for 300 years – whisked me back to a less stressful time. A haunt where smugglers slipped ashore unnoticed and where I hoped my weekend would allow me to go unnoticed also.
Immediately on arriving I was greeted with warm smiles and friendly but unimposing attentiveness. The hotel’s manager is also from the North, a Blackpool native whose own story of fleeing to the tranquil coast inspired me to pull my own ‘Shirley Valentine’ and do the same.
The 22-bedroom hotel has a fresh, relaxing charm with just the right amount of homely comfort to put you instantly at ease. A New England vibe with a nod to its nautical positioning is carried through the hotel with relaxing tones of cream and white. Homemade biscuits are available in your room. A wonderful, homely touch that I thought worth mentioning more than the fact that each room is en-suite! The hotel’s windows beautifully frame the magnificent, uninterrupted view of the Atlantic Ocean as close to the sea as you can get without having a propeller.
The cliffs that surround the Lugger provide a great sense of seclusion, which is probably why the hotel has gained the patronage of a number of celebrity guests including David Cameron, Will Young and Dawn French.
The beauty of The Lugger is more than skin-deep however as the standards of quality and service are carried through into their food offering. Already having gorged myself earlier in the day with the hotel’s highly recommended (and rightfully so) cream tea, I decided to give the restaurant a whirl. This was a relaxing weekend after all which for me meant any walk further than 20 meters would turn this into more of an adventure holiday!
As you would expect, seafood takes a starring role on the menu of the AA rosette restaurant. Local crab and Lobster headline the show when in season. The menu itself was a wonderful, fresh fusion of very British flavours and European flare with over 90% of the items being sourced from the local area. Scallops and oysters made up my dish du jour and even though I have eaten these on many occasions before, they were some of the best I had ever tasted. Main courses in the restaurant averaged around £15 and desserts about £7.50 and in my opinion you can taste every perfectly crafted penny of it.
If even with the stunning scenery, the comfortable and stylish rooms, the amazing afternoon tea and the wonderfully tasty, locally sourced food you are still not relaxed enough then the Lugger has you covered with an array of spa treatments that are available to ensure your relaxation kicks up to comatose level.
The Lugger undoubtedly offers laid back, understated luxury. Whether it is for a romantic getaway, a weekend with the girls or a secret rendez vouse the hotel has everything you could possibly need for the perfect relaxing stay.
Portloe Truro
Cornwall TR2 5RD
Words Eileen Green
REVIEW: THE ICE HOUSE
WHEN WE THINK ABOUT A PRIVATE GET AWAY, SOMEWHERE WE CAN RELAX AND TAKE IN A BIT OF FRESH AIR, BALLINA COUNTY MAYO IN WESTERN IRELAND OFFERS AN EXPERIENCE THAT WILL MOST DEFINITELY LEAVE YOU SPEECHLESS. IRELAND HAS MANY ATTRACTIONS IF EVERYDAY LIFE IS BECOMING A BIT STRESSFUL, AND YOU FIND YOURSELF NEEDING A WELL-DESERVED BREAK, THE REFRESHING COUNTRY AIR WILL SOON SORT THAT OUT.
The Ice House is a chic boutique spa hotel overlooking the River Moy in western Ireland. Built in 1859, the hotel has 32 bedrooms and suites, many of which offer stunning views of the tranquil forest and surrounding landscape.
The location is perfect as it compliments everything The Ice house represents; the spa facilities really bring it all to life as you are left feeling like you’ve just landed on another planet far far away. The treatments are just spectacular and you have a choice between Signature treatments, treatment Rituals, Facial Treatments followed by Body treatments.
I had the pleasure of enjoying a 60-minute facial, which was not at all what I expected. The therapist discussed the look I hoped to achieve then recommended the treatment that would achieve the best results.
I lay there in one of five treatment suites relaxed and totally chilled by the candles burning around the room and the classical music peacefully playing in the background; at this point I felt as though I was in heaven.
Between treatments, you have the use of other spa facilities like the relaxation area that has a stunning view of the River Moy Estuary giving you time to lay and chill out with a glass of freshly-squeezed orange juice or you could use that time to read your favorite glossy magazine. The beauty inside is just as breathtaking on the outside, which you’ll find out when you go for a dip in the external hot tub, situated right over the river, giving you the opportunity to watch swans swim by while you take in the beauty of the vista.
Depending on your room preference, you have the choice between a traditional styled suite or a heritage one. Both offer two separate settings that make you feel comfortable and totally at home. You can expect a modern designed setting within the traditional room, with two plasma TVs. You can expect sliding glass doors, which lead straight to the balcony overlooking the waterway, giving a magnificent view of the surrounding area.
The luxurious room setting is complemented by a king size bed and the bathroom has built-in shower and deep bath. Soaps and products from L’Occtitane are provided for you to enjoy at your disposal.
The Pier restaurant has a glass wall, offering a view of the river, making the atmosphere very pleasurable. Winner of Best Restaurant design 2010 by the Restaurant Association speaks for itself. Breakfast is the best way to start the day here as you can look forward to a buffet full of fresh pastry delights, fruit salads with yogurt, freshly- squeezed orange Juice and still or sparkling water. If that was not enough for you, there is a breakfast menu with a choice of items – a full traditional Irish breakfast or Eggs Benedict served on toasted brioche with pancetta and hollandaise were just two of the mouthwatering offerings.
My choice had to be the American-style buttermilk pancakes served with syrup, presented with strawberries, which were to die for.
If you enjoy a bit of country air and want to get out and about you can enjoy a day of golf along the coast at one of four courses, take a boat trip, go fishing or maybe you would prefer a long stroll along Enniscorne beach for a view that is definitely breath taking.
The Ice House is a place for you to unwind and get away from daily stresses, enjoy the finest cuisine in their award-winning restaurant after a well-deserved day of spa treatments.
INFORMATION
Ryan Air has flights straight into Knock airport which takes 1 hour 30 minutes.
For further information visit www.ryanair.com
On arrival, there are taxis available to get to your destination in approximately 20 minutes.
Tourism Ireland offer tours and information on Ireland and surrounding areas.
The Ice house
The Quay
Ballina
Co. Mayo
Tel 000353 96 23 500
Email chill@theicehouse.ie
Prices start from £60 pppn, which includes breakfast and a deluxe room.
Words Lucy Gillfillan
DONNAFUGATA GOLF RESORT AND SPA, SICILY
“AND HOW ABOUT YOU, MADAM, WILL YOU BE GOLFING TOO?” ASKS ONE OF THE TALL, DARK AND HANDSOME, CONCIERGES.
“HMM, DONNAFUGATA GOLF AND SPA RESORT. SO THAT’S SPA AS WELL AS GOLF, I SEE.”
Not wanting the concierge – I already mentioned how handsome he was – to turn his attention to another guest I quickly answered the original question in the negative. I would take full advantage of the spa facilities and leave the golfing to the men.
In the South-East of Sicily, near the Baroque town of Ragusa, Donnafugata Golf Resort & Spa, part of the NH Hoteles group, is a luxury five-star resort, newly opened in summer 2010.
Situated close to the beautiful beaches of Camarina, Punta Secca and the Marina di Ragusa, the resort is a fantastic place to hone golfing skins on its two exclusive 18-hole championship courses. The Parkland course was designed by Gary Player, the legendary, world-famous player and award-winning designer of over two hundred courses situated throughout the world. The course runs along the rustic countryside of Ragusa, which can be seen all around, offering players fabulous views.
The Links course has suitably different characteristics. The holes stretch over two large valleys, each of which includes a lake. The fairways have been carved out of the newly landscaped areas that skirt them, which means that so that their profiles stand out. This creates plays on colour which change wonderfully according to the seasons of the year.
If, like me, players are trying out golf for the first time, the Golf Academy of Donnafugata Golf Resort & Spa will be a valuable facility. Using the very latest technology combined with traditional methods, highly qualified instructors are on hand to help all players with learning the techniques on to their choice of equipment, and understanding the psychology of golf.
The resort houses nine meeting rooms all equipped with the latest in audio-visual/conference technology which was show-cased at the press conference called by the legendary golfer, Gary Player. At 75 he’s still playing pro-golf and keen to highlight the value of the Donnafugata golf courses.
Here at AGENT2 we’re very keen on well-being activities that feature spa experiences so moving swiftly on to the Donnafugata spa awarded “Traveller Favourite Overseas Day Spa for 2010” by Condé Nast Traveller.
Six rooms for aesthetic and wellness treatments; a beauty centre, sauna, steam bath, multi-sensory showers and heated indoor swimming pool, in which to relax immersed in three different types of whirlpool areas, offer days devoted to beauty care and pure relaxation.
The spa is open daily from 9am to 9pm and also includes a top-of the-range multi-gym centre. The empty marble room with clouds of steam descending about me was the perfect way to begin my spa experience. The heat and moisture of the steam bath allowed my pores to open and I spent many glorious minutes perspiring my cares away.
The ‘Culti Method’ philosophy is utilised in the techniques that the masseuses apply. For up to 100 minutes the body is pampered; stress and tensions are melted away with the warmth of hands gently activating your lymphatic system to drain any water retention.
The luxurious treatment rooms and heated indoor swimming pool look out over the incredible surrounding scenery, which allowed me to become totally absorbs in my own thoughts as I swam graceful lengths of breast stroke under the soft lighting. The complex also thoughtfully provides a ‘relax’ area in which I was able to sip herbal teas while perusing Italian fashion magazines.
The International buffet breakfast which included freshly prepared pastries and cappuccino at the Restaurant Il Fico D’India (which translates as The Prickly Pear) was a great way to start each day, as I found a rich spread of sweet and savoury specialities and dishes.
Each evening was spent enjoying the world-class cuisine at Resturant Il Carrubo (which translates as The Carob).The bright and airy dining room, where floor-to-ceiling windows provide stunning views of the surrounding golf courses and gardens, is the perfect setting for fine dining. The cuisine offers a delightful balance between tradition and innovation; Sicilian gastronomy, strongly influenced by the wisdom of Moorish recipes. These include high-grade fish – snapper, scorpion fish, octopus, tuna and prawns – all bought daily at the market and enhanced by the simple flavours of fresh vegetables such as aubergines and the Pachino cherry tomatoes that are typical of the Ragusa area,.
The Il Carrubo cellar offers an array wines from the finest Sicilian vineyards, along with a great selection of wines and spirits from the entire peninsula such as l‘Alcamo Bianco, Moscato and Passito di Pantelleria.
Nicknamed ‘The 19th Hole’ the Club House is the perfect place to eat and drink after having played golf. The menu includes gourmet sandwiches to fresh seafood prepared with fresh local ingredients creating simple but absolutely delicious fare.
The resort is also an ideal base for exploring the towns of Ragusa, Modica both UNESCO World Heritage Site and, as such, the cradle of Sicilian Baroque. These are homes to the legendary Donnafugata Castle near Ragusa and the extraordinary and unique chocolate of Modica, produced with an ancient and original Aztec recipe in Modica and are gateways to Sicily’s charms of the past.
HOW TO GET THERE
British Airways operates flights from London Gatwick to Catania – www.britishairways.com
Alitalia operates flights from London Heathrow and London City Airports to Catania via Milan Linate and Rome and flights from Glasgow via Amsterdam and Rome – www.alitalia.com
Transfer from Catania International airport to Donnafugata Resort and Spa is 1 hour, 30 minutes by car.
Airport and helicopter transfers are available on request.
Donnafugata Golf Resort & Spa
Contrada Piombo
97100
Ragusa
ITALY
Phone: +39 0932 914200
Fax: +39 0932 914222
Email: nhdonnafugata@nh-hotels.com
Web: http://www.donnafugatagolfresort.com
Prices start at €250 per night for a Standard Room.
Words Almaz Ohene
THE CHARING CROSS HOTEL – REVIEW
THE CHARING CROSS HOTEL CAN TRULY CLAIM TO BE AT THE VERY CENTRE OF LONDON: THE ELEANOR CROSS JUST OUTSIDE IS THE POINT FROM WHICH ALL ROAD DISTANCES TO THE CAPITAL ARE MEASURED. AS PART OF THE GUOMAN COLLECTION OF DELUXE OF LONDON HOTELS; THE CUMBERLAND, THE ROYAL HORSEGUARDS, THE TOWER, AND, OF COURSE, THE CHARING CROSS ARE THE IDEAL PLACE TO MEET, CELEBRATE, OR SIMPLY RELAX IN THE HEART OF THE CITY.
The Grade II listed building has been restored to all of its former Victorian glory giving it an elegance and grandeur that are both very much of its time, and yet completely suited for the twenty-first century and beyond.
From the moment I step in, I am made at ease by the impeccable Concierge service and impressed by the chic interior design highlighting the importance of elegance through the use of rich dark shades, opulent fabrics and signature statement pieces, designed to reflect the hotel’s iconic location at the official centre-point of London.
With 239 luxurious bedrooms and Junior Suites, the attention to detail and cutting-edge design is excellent. Each room includes black out blinds, large work stations with Wi-Fi, Hypnos beds (a brand recommended by the Queen), Egyptian cotton bed linen, bathrobes, rain head showers and tea/coffee facilities, for the optimum guest experience.
The hotel is also complete with a state of the art guest-only gym. With a modern chic look, the new gym is kitted out with three plasma screens, an iPod docking station, refrigerated refreshments and fresh towels. And if you need advice, or just a little extra motivation, you can book a session with their own fully-qualified Personal Trainer.
The inlaid mosaic floor of the Terrace on the Strand Restaurant is the Victorian original. Winner of an AA Rosette, it serves an adventurous menu of classic British and international cuisine. With the hotel so close to many West End theatres, it’s the ideal choice for a pre-show dinner or long lunch after a morning sight-seeing.
The discreet yet attentive service makes the Strand Lounge a calm, sumptuous place to relax. Settle back and savour our famous London Afternoon Tea, accompanied by magnificent views over The Strand and Trafalgar Square.
Strand Bar is open twenty-four hours a day for a drink, or light meal. Each Friday night there is live music in the lounge, so you can sit back, relax and enjoy the great atmosphere of this Central London hotel.
The candles and tea-lights which adorn the length of the corridors and staircases on an evening are welcome tonic after the hustle and bustle of a day in the busy city.
The Charing Cross hotel is the gateway to London’s West End and its world-famous shops, theatres and other attractions. And with Charing Cross mainline and Tube stations literally next door, this iconic Central London hotel has firmly established itself as the leading ‘destination’ hotel in the area.
Charing Cross, The Strand, London. WC2N 5HX
Tel: 0871 376 9012
Fax: 0871 376 9112
http://www.guoman.com/en/hotels/united_kingdom/london/charing_cross/index.html
Words Almaz Ohene
