THE JACQUES TOWNHOUSE
August 2, 2010 by Editor
Filed under EDITOR'S DESK
An Alice in Wonderland world of English eccentricity, vintage glamour and bohemian mysticism entranced guests at the launch of The Jacques Townhouse, a quirky collaboration between Jacques Cider and David Carter, of award-winning boutique hotel, 40 WINKS. 1950’s attired concierge and bevy of bellboys greeted arrivals at reception to grant a key and offer guidance on the delights hidden behind each door. The basement held host to Benefit Cosmetics new Lash Couture service, while the dressing up box next door offered a suitably retro styling service. Ladies were transformed into vintage pin-ups and flash! The girls fluttered their exotic lashes and ruffled their frocks for the photographers’ lens. Cutesy cup cakes were served courtesy of Vintage Patisserie and, teamed with the fruit cider fusions of Jacques, created a twist on the quintessential English Tea Party. Wandering mystics played with guest’s fate as tarot cards were read and the curious could enter the palm reader’s tent to discover their destiny. The exquisite Sophie Ellis Bexter and hubby (aka Me & Mrs Jones) headlined the evening and played a set centred around classic Blow Up Club tunes. We left wishing we could stay forever but, alas, the charming townhouse closes its doors on the 6th August so ensure you get your fill of fantasy before the story ends.
The Jacques Townhouse, 33 Fitzroy Square, W1T 6EU
Words and images Emma Harding
GLASGOW – STYLE AND IDEAS
IN MY HOMELAND CANADA, THERE IS TORONTO AND MONTREAL, IRELAND HAS CORK AND DUBLIN, AND SCOTLAND HAS GLASGOW TO ITS EDINBURGH. I HAVE SEEN AND ENJOYED BOTH, PERHAPS FOR DIFFERENT ASPECTS. ONE’S AN INDUSTRIAL, SLEEVES-ROLLED-UP, NO NONSENSE CITY AND THE OTHER A MORE REFINED AND CULTURED CITY.
Glasgow’s charm is very different from its eastern sister. If Edinburgh is a Hollywood blockbuster, with obvious character and beauty, Glasgow is more of an indie flick, hoping you’ll discover its quirky charm in your own way.
But on closer inspection of Glasgow’s architecture and unusual creativity, this industrial city has nothing to envy from the classic Edinburgh. The Scottish metropolis isn’t done with reinventing itself. To keep its high status of excellence, Glasgow has chosen to live following this rhythm of avant-garde and Scottish modernism, which began in the 19th Century.
Its red sandstone Victorian buildings provide contrast to the steel of its post-industrial era architecture, but it’s the Arts and Crafts movement constructions that won my heart.
The movement known as well through Europe as Art Nouveau, was instigated in Glasgow by ‘The Four’, which included Charles Rennie Mackinstosh, Herbert MacNair, Margaret and Frances MacDonald. Together, they created the vision which became world famous as the Glasgow Style – a blend of Celtic and Japanese art. In 1896, Mackintosh won the competition for the rebuilding of the Glasgow School of Art.
The movement contributed to Glasgow economic boon and international recognition by reinventing the fields of architecture, interior design and painting.
To have a taste of the Glasgow style, go for a nice cup of tea at the Willow Tearoom, the last room created by Mackinstosh for restaurateur Kate Cranston.
Glasgow was designated ‘Architectural and Design city of the UK’ in 1999. In fact, from interior design to fashion, nothing escapes the creative talents.
A major new centre for the arts and creativity opened last September called Trongate 103. It offers opportunities to view and buy a wide variety of art including printmaking, photography, digital media, film, video, kinetic sculpture, painting and ceramic all under one roof.
In the medieval quarter, the Merchant City, a beautiful Victorian building has brilliantly been transformed into the new home for 100 visual artists and cultural organizations and is available for visits.
The Kelvingrove Art Gallery has reopened its doors after a four year renovations and several million pounds spent in its refurbishment. It is the most popular art gallery in the UK after London. It has a superb collection from the Glasgow Boys, a wing devoted to Mackintosh and a magnificent variety of paintings from the Scottish Colorists and the French Impressionists. A must see.
Two years ago, Glasgow was named a UNESCO City of Music by a UN cultural body – to celebrate the city’s role a world player in music and its rich and varied music heritage. The city’s legendary music scene stretches across the whole spectrum from contemporary and classical to Celtic and country. Its venues are equally varied and include the famously loud and sweaty King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut, the Barrowlands, Glasgow Royal Concert Halls, as well as many pubs and clubs throughout the city.
Like the famously incomprehensible accent of Glaswegians, this unpretentiously stylish city with its Georgian and Victorian glorious architecture, world-renowned museums, café culture and quarters like Merchant City and the West End deserves decoding.
WHEN TO GO
Glasgow is a vibrant year round city but we recommend a visit during The West End Festival which celebrates the cultural diversity of Glasgow’s West End with hundreds of performers covering music, comedy and theatre and the Glasgow International Jazz Festival that strives to bring a broad range of top performers.
WHERE TO SHOP
Che Camille On the top floor, above the busiest street in Glasgow. Browse the most exciting and innovative indie boutique/showroom space in Glasgow. Che Camille’s fashion house a cool indie boutique with a larger women collection and more modest but complete boy collection. You can also get a bespoke outfit with the help of their in-house designers on hand to help out with creative ideas as well as taking advantage of their onsite customizing and alterations services. Che Camille also sells music, art and crafts from local artists. Check that gem out!
Floor 6, Argyle Centre, Buchanan Street
WHERE TO EAT
Enjoy a relaxing dining experience, where affordable contemporary cuisine is served with a distinctly Scottish flavour. Try the excellent and mouthwatering scallops!
Top of Byres Road
Osteria Piero was voted best Italian restaurant in Scotland 2010. With over 90 years of tradition and experience, a warm and cosy atmosphere as well as a menu full of fresh rustic Italian cuisine.
111 West Regent Street
Voted Urban Restaurant of the Year at the Scottish Restaurant Awards 2009, the Left Bank is synonymous with laid-back eclectic dining and enchanting intimate surroundings.
33-35 Gibson Street
WHERE TO STAY
Blythswood Square in Glasgow city centre is the latest addition to the Town House Collection of luxury boutique hotels in Scotland. Aiming to be Scotland’s greenest hotel, the Blythswood is located in one of Glasgow’s most famous historical landmark, previously the home of the Royal Scottish Automobile Club
11 Blythswood Square
The recently refurbished Lorne Hotel Glasgow is the ultimate experience in luxury hotel. Located in the vibrant West End and near by botanical gardens.
923 Sauchiehall Street
Words and images Vincent Bernier
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SCARLET BY NAME, GREEN BY NATURE
CORNWALL HAS ALWAYS BEEN A DESTINATION THAT CONJURES CARE-FREE IMAGES OF BOHEMIAN OUTDOOR LIFESTYLES IN OUR MINDS HERE AT AGENT2: SOMETHING THAT AS DEVOTED, FAST LIVING, CITY DWELLERS WE OFTEN STEER CLEAR OF WHEN PLANNING A WEEKEND AWAY.
However, The Scarlet Hotel in Mawgan Porth, Cornwall peaked our interest with its promise of being ‘a place to eat, dream and play in peace and be influenced by the natural rhythms of Mother Nature.’ We were also more than a little curious to see if the UK’s first, purpose built, eco-luxe hotel could successfully shake off our preconceptions of sawdust toilets, hemp cloth bedding and self-righteous eco-warriors scowling at our every over-indulgence.
It is apparent that our pace of life begins to slow with every twist and turn of the roads leading to the hotel. The sleepy pace is soon jarred on arrival by the spectacular location carved into the North Cornish cliff above the crashing Atlantic Ocean.
The Scarlet was the brainchild of three sisters who also own the well established; family orientated Bedruthan Steps Hotel, further on up the hill. The entrance to the hotel ensures the mood is set for luxurious self-indulgence, with floor to ceiling glass offering us the unbroken view of an infinity pool, leading the eyes to the sea. Designed to blend into the surroundings with features such as a flat roof covered in sea shale, copper walls, sweeping timber curves and rock plants reflecting the cliffs and beach below; the hotel offers an ideal base to explore the Cornish coast and countryside if you can manage to pull yourself away from the lure of the hotel’s luxurious trappings as the interior seems to effortlessly melt into the beautiful exterior.
With the number of doors in the Scarlet purposely kept to a minimum in an effort to retain an air of tranquility, light envelops each of the spaces found in the hotel. The library is the perfect place for lounging in comfort while outside, two terraces; a natural reed pool and a scarlet, fire-heated hot tub offer views of Mawgan Porth Beach from a stunning, cliff- top location.
If you’d rather see than be seen then anyone of the hotel’s 37 rooms provides the perfect private sanctuaries. Each of the luxurious rooms offers a private balcony and sea view. Large head showers, deep bathtubs, thick and soft robes and towels and natural Cornish soaps make this little slice of heaven complete. The only thing that is going to get AGENT2 to leave the hotel is the fire alarm and even if that were to sound, we’d still need a little coaxing to leave this lap of luxury.
The word ‘sanctuary’ cannot be over used when describing the offerings at the Scarlet and one place we can really lay the use on thickly is when it comes to describing the hotel’s spa. Individual Ayurvedic ‘journeys’ are the relaxation du jour after a therapist’s consultation to identify your body type (they did refrain from hurting our feelings). The treatment rooms are tented with heavy curtains rather than doors, ensuring no sounds break the tangible peace and quiet. Wallowing in the subdued glow produced by a myriad of tea lights while a deep tissue massage is performed is followed by cocooning in one of the cushioned deep relaxation pods, suspended from the ceiling. This is just the ticket for pushing our feeling of deep relaxation into a more coma like state.
This seamless luxury that envelops each aspect of the hotel is not a miss in the hotel’s food offering. Ben Tunnicliffe (formerly of the Michelin-starred Abbey in Penzance) casts his masterful touch over the menu. Breakfast offered choices such as poached rhubarb with thick yoghurt; kippers and a full Cornish breakfast of locally sourced produce. The evening’s menu choices are equally as delicious and as you would expect from a hotel proud of its eco status, the items are locally sourced with an emphasis and great, fresh produce and fish that tastes as though it was just plucked from the sea. An extensive wine list compliments the menu but in the thoughtful fashion seen throughout the Scarlet, only European wines are stocked reducing ‘food miles’ in line with their green policy.
Luxury aside, we cannot brush over the Scarlet’s green credentials. As well as minimizing their visual impact on the landscape the hotel boasts solar panels that heat both the indoor and outdoor pool. A bio-mass boiler burns woodchips from local sources to heat the rest of the hotel. With a £120, 000 price tag, the boiler demonstrates the hotel’s green resolve. Grass roofing, water recycling initiatives and a team of litter picking staff discharged to the beach make sure this resolve never waivers.
A weekend at the Scarlet is more than enough to change our city-loving mindset and take a small timeout from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. With high-design meeting the beauty of the natural surrounds of the Cornish coast, wonderful food and a spa that will tame the fastest of lives all topped off with a fantastically world conscious ethos, this is certainly one lavish, luxurious weekend retreat that will definitely leave you relaxed – mind, body and soul.
Scarlet Hotel Ltd
Tredragon Road
Mawgan Porth
Cornwall
TR8 4DQ
T. 01637 861800
Words Eileen Green Images Scarlet Hotel
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HEINEKEN OPEN’ER FESTIVAL 2010
STAG PARTIES, CHEAP BEER AND THE BOOM OF LOW-COST AIRLINES HAVE MADE POLAND A POPULAR HOLIDAY DESTINATION IN RECENT YEARS. BUT THERE IS ALSO ANOTHER REASON TO HEAD EAST THIS SUMMER: THE HEINEKEN OPEN’ER FESTIVAL 2010.
For those who slosh through the mud at Glastonbury every year, party at V Festival and buy a three-day pass for Leeds, this is another music event to add to your list. One of the largest rock, pop and dance festivals in Europe, it has also been awarded the title of the best. Earlier this year, it beat the likes of Glastonbury by winning the award for 2009 Best Major Festival at the European Festival Awards.
One of Europe’s biggest, and most important, music events of the summer, this four day July festival in Gdynia, North Poland is an excellent alternative to the best of our British festivals. Situated by the sea, it exudes the chilled ambiance of our welly-wearing weekends whilst being a whole lot cheaper than a ticket to Reading. To top that, the eclectic mix of huge names and some of the world’s biggest artists gives it a feel for a British line-up.
Taking to the stage from 1 to the 4 July, the line-up reads like a ‘who’s who’ of modern chart toppers with this year’s acts including Kasabian, Gorillaz Sound System, Nas and The Klaxons. Classic performers also grace one of the seven stages at the Heineken Open’er and this year you can sing along with Pearl Jam and Grace Jones and rock with The Hives.
Having been a permanent fixture of European festival calendars since its first show in Warsaw in 2002, the Heineken Open’er, now in Gdynia, has since become infamous amongst festival-goers, performers and the media the world over. With tented pitches such like our most beloved British festivals (though I’m sure with a lot less mud) and cheap-as-chip half-litre beers costing only £1.25, there really isn’t a reason not to give Heineken a go this summer.
Unless of course, you’re partial to the old mac in a sac once the British skies open, that is.
The Heineken Open’er Festival runs from 1 – 4 July 2010 in Gdynia, Poland. Ryanair, BA and Wizz Air all fly to the nearby town of Gdansk. For more information on the festival or to book tickets, visit www.opener.pl/en
Prices:
Adult three-day ticket £155 and individual days starting from £55.
Student three-day ticket £125 and individual days starting from £40.
Words Natasha Al-Atassi
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GO WEST! HOTEL REVIEW
DESPITE DROPPING INTO THE CAPITAL ON A REGULAR BASIS, STRAYING FAR FROM THE WEST END NEVER SEEMS TO HAPPEN. SHEPHERDS BUSH IS A STONE’S THROW AWAY FROM CENTRAL LONDON BUT HAVING NEVER HAD A REAL REASON TO VISIT, IT HAS REMAINED OFF OUR BEATEN TRACK. NOW WITH THE OPENING OF THE WESTFIELD SHOPPING CENTRE, THE BIGGEST URBAN SHOPPING CENTRE IN EUROPE, AGENT2 FINALLY HAD A REASON TO MAKE IT A DESTINATION AND SAMPLE THE DELIGHTS OF THE STUNNING K WEST HOTEL AT THE END OF DAY OF RETAIL THERAPY.
Making your way through the revolving doors of K West Hotel, you find yourself walking straight into the lobby bar, the K Lounge. Divided into a seating area, dominated by leather and wooden furniture, and a mix of large and small tables, the bar is both minimalist and cosy. The very impressive long bar with green lighting is by far the main highlight of the space.
Near the staircase leading to the hotel’s mezzanine restaurant Kanteen, you will find abstract artwork, stones, and a very cool fire running along the wall that we at AGENT2 coveted for ourselves.
Overall, the ambiance managed to avoid the pretension of other lobby bars in Central London, despite its exciting clientele of both hotel guests and creative types working in the recording studios nearby, who meet up for unofficial parties until 2am. If you’re lucky, you may even rub elbows with some celebrities such as Girls Aloud or Franz Ferdinand. Expect the bar and restaurant to lack atmosphere at more quiet times though.
All eyes are drawn to the bartenders mixing up some cocktails and promising to surprise and tease your taste buds. The drinks menu with its list of cocktails is exhaustive at K Lounge– you will find the usual tipples from a very reasonable £6.50 as well as a few fresh new ideas direct from K West’s very knowledgeable bar tenders. Be sure to try the Funky Bitch, the Angel’s Kiss, or the Climax with a very rich mix of crème de banane, crème de cacao, triple sec, Amaretto, vodka and double cream.
The crowning glory at the K West hotel is its magnificent spa that has recently undergone a bit of pampering of its own. A £2 million refurbishment has completed the Spa with a relaxing Hydrotherapy Pool, a refreshing Snow Paradise, Sanarium, Sauna, Foot Spa, Steam, Sun Meadow as well as seven beautifully designed treatments rooms and Dry flotation Room. The Spa tops the luxurious experience of the K West, making it a spectacular and relaxing space to escape and unwind from the hustle and bustle of the ‘Big Smoke’.
With a spa to help you soothe your cares away and a night scene where it’s definitely cool to be, well, seen K West has everything you need for a stay in the city neatly wrapped up in a well designed packaged.
Go west! Life is tasteful there.
Richmond Way
London W14
020 8008 6600
Words Graham Gartside
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CLASSIC COLOGNE, A SCENT OF LUXURY
ASKING THOSE WHO’VE BEEN TO COLOGNE WHAT THEY REMEMBER FROM IT WILL OFTEN BRING UP AN ASSORTMENT OF REPLIES, FOR IN THIS SMALL CITY BURSTING WITH STORIES, THERE REALLY IS AN AWFUL LOT TO SEE AND DO. AGENT2 DISCOVERS, IN BETWEEN CLIMBING GOTHIC CATHEDRALS AND SHOPPING IN THE NEW QUARTER, THAT COLOGNE ISN’T JUST YOUR AVERAGE GERMAN TOWN. RIDDLED WITH ANCIENT ARCHITECTURE, WARTIME RUINS AND 18THC BUILDINGS, IT IS THE ONE OF THE FINEST CATALOGUES OF HISTORY GERMANY HAS TO OFFER.
Cologne, or Köln, as it is known in Germany, is nestled in West Germany, only an hour away from Brussels by train. One of the most popular tourist destinations in Germany, it is home to just one million inhabitants, making it a refreshing break from the hustle of larger European cities.
However, whether you arrive by train, plane or boat, the first thing that will strike you as you enter the city won’t be its quiet cobbled streets or its famous river Rhine. I guarantee when your first breath is stolen, it’ll be upon seeing its imposing and impressive Cathedral.
A huge black-stone building with a ashy grey steeple stretching high into the foggy sky, the Cathedral holds historical tales that have lasted for centuries.
Now a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site, six million visitors come every year to see Germany’s largest Cathedral, which, at 45 metres tall, overlooks the rest of the city. Taking over 600 years to build, its foundations were first laid down in 1248 but it wasn’t completed until 1880, when it became the tallest building in the world. Nine years later, it lost this title to the Eiffel Tower, at 300 metres tall.
The gothic architecture of the church is itself outstanding – black stone carved into a variety of biblical figures stand above the entrance door, its high arched ceiling offers an arresting presence and its colourful stain glass windows stretch nearly its entire height. Mosaics are scattered on the floor and original 13thC features can be found throughout. The tombs that circle the perimeter of the cathedral, as well as the crypt that rests underneath it, lend themselves rather well to the quiet, eerie atmosphere.
However, the reason why Cologne’s Cathedral is so significant isn’t really to do with its design, nor its impressive longevity. Within this heavily Catholic city, lay some of the most precious remains of its biblical heritage, for the Cathedral has housed the golden shrine of the Three Magi (Three Wise Men) since 1164. Pilgrims flock to Cologne every year on 6 January when the shrine is opened, to see their remains.
The only building in Cologne not to be bombed during WW2, the Cathedral has huge significance to its survivors and its people.
Our guide, André Fischer told us: “It’s impossible to describe the connection Cologners have to this church. It is part of us. It is our identity.”
The Cathedral isn’t the oldest thing about Cologne though. And it only took a short walk to realise what sort of history this city holds. A short stroll from the Cathedral we ambled across what looked like some old building debris, surrounded by fence and scaffolding. What we had actually stumbled across were the authentic ruins of Cologne’s Roman rule. One of the oldest cities in the world (dating as far back as 58BC), Cologne houses some of the best preserved Roman ruins outside of Rome. Built using these ancient foundations, beneath Cologne’s modern and medieval buildings lays an entire Roman city.
One of the best places to experience its Roman history is to visit the Roman-Germanic Museum (5 EUR for adults), which centres round a huge Dionysus mosaic, uncovered during the Second World War. The museum is home to huge ruins such as tombstones and small remnants that have been discovered throughout the years including coins, weapons, tools and the largest collection of Roman glassware in the world. All these remains have helped uncover the vast history of this West German city, and tell of its prominence in the Ancient World.
The Prätorium (2.50 EUR for adults) is another place not to miss if you’re keen on your Ancient History. Discovered in the World War Two rubble, the prätorium was once home to the city’s Governor and was one of the largest buildings in Cologne during Roman times. The building foundations have remained perfectly in tact aside from a deep gash through one its walls: a scar from a 4thC earthquake. The walls, its underground heating system, and octagon rooms are all otherwise in perfect condition and give a brilliant insight into the life and history of this Roman province.
In the same visit, you can explore over 100 metres of Ancient canal sewage tunnels from 50AD, which are still in pristine condition.
One of the best ways to examine Cologne’s vast and varied history is to have a stroll through its Old Town (Altstadt). Though most of Cologne was destroyed during WW2, few buildings within this medieval quarter remained. Walk along its cobbled streets and through its sparse empty squares and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of this quiet part of the city. The narrow side streets are the best place to experience Cologne’s traditional beer holes and try its authentic cuisine. The Rhine promenade sprawling with colourful houses, picturesque plazas and lonesome benches add a special character to Cologne, giving a taste of what this beautiful city was like pre-1942.
Indeed, the story of the Second World War isn’t forgotten within this once-walled city. Its tight-knit community together with its rich heritage makes Cologners proud to be Cologners. But when the war broke out, their pride and indeed, their city was shattered. Whereas in 1939 there were 750,000 residents in Cologne, by 1945, there were only 42,000.
Since then though, Cologne has successfully moved on: uncovering magnificent ancient ruins, restoring medieval streets and constructing a modern city centre around its fragile foundations in the ‘Rheinauhafen’, the new quarter. Home to some of the most popular shopping areas in Europe, the places to visit are Hohe Straß for department stores and Breite Straße for boutique shops. In recent years, the Belgian Quarter has become a thriving area for vintage clothes and trendy accessories.
Despite its turbulent past, Cologne has managed to salvage some of its major ruins and reinvent itself, creating a city full of stories, memories and character, that’s a true pleasure to visit.
Walking through its promenades as the splendid Cathedral is lit up on a cold wintry night, there’s a buzz that runs through the city; a reminder that every step taken is like a walkway through history.
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Cologne is one hour ahead of the UK (GMT) and the currency is the EUR where £1=1.15 EUR. Visit during the six-day holiday of Carnival (Feb 11 - 17) where the streets come alive with parades, events and shows, and Cologners dress in colourful costumes. Visit www.koelntourismus.com for more information.
HOW TO GET THERE
German Wings fly to Cologne/Bonn Airport from London Stansted and have recently launched a new route from Manchester airport, flying five times per week. Flights take 1h 15 minutes. Prices start from £13.99 and can be booked at www.germanwings.com or by calling +44 (0)906 294 1918.
WHERE TO STAY
Excelsior Hotel Ernst +49 (0)221 2701 / www.excelsior-hotel-ernst.de)
Just 200 metres away from the Cologne’s main station and 20 metres from the Cathederal, this 5* hotel has everything you could require. As well as its proximity to the old quarter, Excelsior also boasts excellent modern suites, gym, spa and plenty of places to wine and dine including gourmet restaurant Hanse Stube, Piano Bar and the Riesling Lounge where guests can enjoy wine tasting sessions of Germany’s own wine variety, the Riesling. Double rooms start from 270EUR prpn.
CHECK OUT OUR GREAT EXCELSIOR “CITY ESCAPE” READER OFFER HERE.
OTHER PLACES TO VISIT
FARINA Fragrance Museum Find out the interesting story behind the world’s oldest fragrance company, Eau de Cologne. Follow the narrative tour by a ‘Rokoko parfumeur’ telling the tale of its creation in 1709 and its popularity among huge historical figures including Napoleon.
Lindt Chocolate Factory (7.50 EUR) Learn the history of chocolate-making, the branding of Lindt and try some chocolate for yourself.
Carnival Museum Museum of Cologne’s infamous Carnival showcasing masks, costumes and past videos where you can learn all about the city’s much-loved celebration.
WHERE TO EAT
Früh A traditional micro-brewery hosting Cologne’s famous brew, Kölsch and serving some of Germany’s traditional cuisine. Try the Rheinischer Sauerbuten (marinated beef with dumplings and red cabbage) for 13.95 EUR.
Taku, Excelsior Hotel An Asian restaurant in the 5* hotel serving quality meals from Japan, Thailand and Vietnam.
Words Natasha Al-Atassi
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BRITTANY BRINGS MUSIC TO OUR EARS
A SHORT WAY FROM THE BRITISH COAST LIES ONE OF FRANCE’S MOST INTERESTING REGIONS, DRAWING VISITORS WITH ITS WONDERFUL COASTLINE, ATTRACTIVE TOWNS AND GREAT FOOD. AGENT2 CROSSES THE CHANNEL TO DISCOVER THE CHARM OF BRITTANY, A UNIQUE REGION RICH IN HISTORY AND BEAUTY.
I didn’t know much about this part of France, but I soon found out there’s more to it than just Asterix the Gaul.
As I set foot in Rennes, the city didn’t first strike me as a place of cultural and social ferment that I had expected from its pride and resistance to power, much like Asterix’s adventures. Its quiet streets, timber-framed houses and slow pace convinced me that the renowned local passionate temperament was just a saying.
However, I soon reconsidered. After attending the music festival the city hosts every December, Les Transmusicales, I saw first-hand the passion and life this region has to offer.
Les Transmusicales is an annual showcase of incredible new musical trends and talents. With a beer in hand, I ventured inside the huge hangars of the Parc Expo.
For four days a year, Rennes becomes the European capital of music: artists from all over the globe come to town to perform in front of 30,000 strong crowd.
New trends in music are offered all night long for a marathon that explores many genres. I danced to the songs from Jamaican artist Terry Lynn, I enjoyed the dark and sometimes unsettling beats of Fever Ray, the amazingly talented BLK JKS and the mind-blowing electro-reggae of Major Lazer. After my second night at Les Trans, Rennes already showed much more character than I thought it ever could.
My ears still burning from the concerts, the following morning I set out to discover the city. A big part of the old town was devastated in a fire in 1720, but it’s still easy to imagine what Rennes must have looked like if its timber-framed houses were still there amongst its bright colours and tiny alleys.
But the beating heart of Rennes is in its squares. The elegant Place de la Republique is a perfect starting point to visit the city. Just make sure you don’t spend all of your time shopping: the famous storeGaleries Lafayettes is here, and the streets all around are full of boutiques.
Walking for a few minutes along streets lined with nice houses and funny restaurant signs, I found myself in front of the imposing neoclassical silhouette of the Cathédrale Saint Pierre. Nearby is Place des Lices, which hosts a lively and noisy market every Saturday, the second biggest in France. It is crammed with locals stocking up on oysters, mouth-watering cheese and freshly baked bread.
The busy Place Saint-Anne is dominated by the Palais du Parlament de Bretagne, which was seriously damanged by a fire in 1994, after a violent demonstration by local fishermen. In front of the Parlament there were many stalls selling delicious local food and I challenge you toresist the temptation of crêpes avec chocolat.
Foodies won’t be disappointed: Rennes is dotted with charming restaurants offering ample opportunity to savour the local cuisine and take in the atmosphere of this peculiar city.
Less than one hour north of the city is the Emerald Coast. Its rugged and windy cliffs overlook gulfs with cobalt blue water, while the waves crash on rocks and lighthouses appear on the horizon. Clouds travel fast, and rainbows colour the sky.
A visit to the village is a must; walking along the harbour you can see the evanescent silhouette of Mont St-Michel. When the sun is not shining, everything seems to romantically seep into black and white.
The real gem of the coastal area is Saint Malo, an elegant walled city.
Its past is one of pirates, sailors and privateers, and walking on the ramparts around the town centre, the wind blowing fiercely, I contemplated the forts and rocks dotting the sea all around. The sun was setting, making the buildings shine like gold.
As I recall my time there, I understand that the warm and welcoming people, jaw-dropping panoramas and rich heritage of Brittany are not only enough to make me want to come back, but also to realize why Asterix was so determined to keep Rome’s hands off it.
WHERE TO STAY
Located a few steps away from Rennes’s train station, Hotel Astrid is a great place to stay. For EUR 55 prpn, it’s only a few minutes away from the city centre. Rooms are simple, quiet and clean. The hall and the breakfast room are very well-decorated, and having a warm baguette with jam in a stylish room is the perfect way to start your day.
WHAT TO DO
VISIT THE LITTLE OYSTER MARKET IN CANCALE
For breath-taking views of Mont Saint-Michel and to snap a picture of a site of oyster harvesting, walk to this tiny market at the end of Cancale’s seafront.
THE MEDIEVAL TOWN OF DINAN
Discover the ancient charm of this little village. Its port, on the river, has great views on the woods and hills around, an old stone bridge and a Roman aqueduct.
HAVE A COFFEE IN SAINT MALO
Le Café du coin d’en bas de la rue du bout de la ville d’en face du port Le Java, 3 Rue Saint Barbe, is an unusual and eccentric place, where stools are swings, the toilet is hidden in a wooden booth and thousands of porcelain dolls, puppets, pictures and stuffed animals make customers’ heads spin. You’ll barely know what you are drinking, too busy looking around. Which is a pity, because the coffee is actually really good.
HOW TO GET THERE
Ryanair flies from London Stansted to Dinard in one hour. Prices vary but good offers can be found at ryanair.com.
Flybe flies to Rennes directly from Southampton, and from Manchester, Edinburgh, Exeter, Belfast and Newcastle connecting in Southampton.
For more information visit brittanytourism.com
Words and images Roberto Priolo
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IRELAND THAT WILL POP YOUR CORK
CORK OVER DUBLIN? THAT IS WHAT THE LOCALS GLADLY RECKON AND WHAT MANY GLOBETROTTERS THINK AS WELL. AGENT2 WAS SENT TO FIND OUT WHETHER CORK REALLY STOOD A CHANCE AGAINST IRELAND’S OLD TIME FAVORITE.
Cork has much to offer: great and innovative restaurants, a pedestrianised town centre surrounded by lovely waterways and is conveniently located near the splendid western coast. The River Lee streams around the core of the city – an island loaded with grand Georgian parades, narrow 17thCalleys and modern masterpieces such as the opera house (corkoperahouse.ie)
Cork or Corcaigh in Gaelic, meaning ‘swamping land’ has known a real financial and cultural boom. Made Cultural Capital of Europe in 2005, the city doesn’t need to envy Dublin anymore when it comes to culture, entertainment and of course, Ireland’s legendary misty pubs.
Originally built around a monastery founded in the 7thC, Cork has had a rich and vibrant history, surviving both the Vikings and the English. During the 18thC, this historical city became ravaged by the Great Famine, losing a great deal of its population, who died or immigrated to America.
Strongly attached to its Irish identity, it has also had a big part to play in Ireland’s independence from 1919 to 1922. Having connections with the IRA led to a number of bombings in the city and on December 11 1920, the centre was totally burned out.
However, Cork has recently seen a huge comeback with the installation of great American companies in the area. Its economic vitality and peace is now visible and the pride of Cork city is back for good…
THINGS TO SEE
… So much so that it is even host to one of Europe’s biggest and most popular jazz festivals. Every October since 1978, The Guinness Cork Jazz Festival is held in Cork. In 2009, the festival exhibited over 1000 musicians from 29 countries, playing in over 60 venues to a hungry crowd or 50,000. This years festival saw international jazz songstress, Imelda May headlining and performing to a sold-out crowd (guinnessjazzfestival.com).
The pretty and picturesque streets of the Shandon neighbourhood on the top of the hill dominating the city, is the best place for long meandering walks with breathtaking views. The neighbourhood surrounds the protestant church of St Ann, whose tower is one of the city’s symbols, famous for its clock that never gives the same time and got the nickname ‘Four Face Liar’ (shandonbells.org).
The city centre streets that cover part of the long island on the Lee River are animated with many businesses and pubs. St Patrick’s Street, the main commercial strip in the city, brings this quiet town to life, finishing on the bank of Lee River, facing Saint Patrick’s Bridge.
Stop to explore Saint Fin Barre Cathedral, the most curious building designed by William Burges in 1863 – the architect behind Cardiff Castle (cathedral.cork.anglican.org).
For a swig of Ireland’s famous liquid, head to the Beamish Brewery. Located in the heart of the city and founded in 1792, it is one of the oldest breweries in Ireland and a superior cousin to Guinness and Murphy’s. Book ahead of your visit (Beamish.ie).
For those interested in knowing more about Cork’s tumultuous and fraught history, visit the Cork Museum. Situated on the site of the former Beamish brewer’s house, it supplies hungry visitors with history about the city throughout the ages.
OUTSIDE CORK CITY
BALLYCOTTON
With its wild Atlantic escarpments giving the small fishing village a variety of settings and climate, Ballycotton has every characteristic an Irish village would have in my imagination; salty air, breathtaking views of the Ireland’s beautiful coast, and a rocky, steep island in the horizon crowned by an old lighthouse.
Ballycotton is one of Europe’s most notorious bird-watching sites – in fact, the region is host to 300 different species including a diversity of Sandpipers, Tree Pipits and Dowitchers. You have to do the famous cliff walk to Ballytrasna and rejuvenate your soul with this alluring area, a complete contrast with (ballycotton.com).
COBH
Over 6 million Irish left Ireland for the United States and Canada from 1848 to 1950 when the country fell into problematic times –famines and depressions. From these 6 million migrants, over 2.5 million departed from Cobh, making it the most important port of emigration. You need to visit Cobh Heritage Centre where you can get full coverage of the Irish Exodus as well as stories of liners that famously stopped or sank near Cobh, including the Titanic and Lisutania (cobhheritage.com)
WHERE TO STAY
Newly established resort in the Cork County, the Castlemartyr Resort is a five star hotel renowned for its charming hospitality and sets new world standards on luxury accommodation. The hotel complex is located about a 10 minute drive away from Ballycotton and 20 minutes east of Cork City and Cork Airport. The resort resides on a 220 hectare estate that includes a 17thC manor and the beautiful and inspiring remains of a castle built 800 years ago under Richard Earl de Clare, aka Strongbow. These premises are witness of the extremely rich Irish cultural heritage and its103 deluxe guest rooms are magnificently restored to provide a unique experience of unspoiled sumptuousness.
The resort offers a range of services including the excellent Knight’s Bar, gourmet cuisine at The Bell Tower restaurant, 16 000 sq ft Spa, indoor and ozone-treated pool, saunas and a golf course designed by Ron Kirby. The hotel pampers to every visitor and offers brilliant outdoor activities such as clay pigeon shooting, archery, crochet, a stroll through the woodland trails or boating.
Castlemartyr Resort offers luxurious accommodation from £175 per room including a full Irish breakfast. For bookings call 00 353 214 219000 or visit www.castlemartyrresort.ie.
HOW TO GET THERE
Regular flights are available to Cork International Airport form London and Manchester with Aerlingus (aerlingus.com).
The best way to see Cork and its beautiful surrounding countryside is by hiring a car. Hertz offer some good deals (hertzflydrive.com).
It’s the spark and warmth of Cork County, a remnant of the region’s enduring rebellious history that captivated me and probably will bewitch you too with its bare but prodigious beauty.
For further information about holidays in Ireland visit www.discoverireland.com.
Words Vincent Bernier – vincent@agent2magazine.com
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SHARM EL-’CHIC’ – THE OTHER SIDE OF EGYPT
FAMOUS FRENCH CAPTAIN JEAN-JACQUES COUSTEAU HAS WRITTEN ONCE: “THE RED SEA IS A PASSAGE OF WONDERS; THE HAPPIEST HOURS OF MY DIVING EXPERIENCE WERE SPENT HERE”.
AGENT2 ventures to Egypt to discover whether Cousteau was right and explores the other wonders that Sharm el-Sheikh has to offer, beyond its pristine beaches and priceless diving.
Indeed, these words would be echoed by anybody who has the chance to spend some time in this astonishing region of the globe. In fact, few places in the world offer divers the chance to discover the unspoiled beauty of the ocean bed as Egypt does.
Located on the east shore at the southernmost tip of the Sinai Peninsula, and with a consistent tropical climate and 60km of sandy beaches, Sharm el-Sheikh has become the leading tourist spot in Sinai and an ultra modern Mecca for divers.
Now developed into a luxury holiday complex, it has become treasured by divers and sun-lovers across the globe. Famous hotels that share its beautiful bays include Marriott, Hilton, Hyatt, Ritz Carlton and the Four Seasons but behind these high-rises, lie Sharm’s endearing secrets: that it still has some of the best diving spots in all the Red Sea.
A great way to start exploring the area is to dive to the amazing reefs of the National Park of Ras Muhammad. Created in 1983 to protect coral reefs and the fragile environment, this marine park boasts corals brighter than anywhere I have ever seen before.
In this ocean of cobalt blue and feeling utterly disconnected, it’s not hard to see why this is one of the world’s most famous dive sites.
For those who haven’t tried it, scuba diving is like visiting another planet. In the majestic Ras Mohammed National Park, the landscape of fluttering reef walls and pinnacles seemed as unfamiliar as the canyons of Mars. The fish are weird in both colour and shape; parrotfish with their beaklike lips, goatfish sporting forked beards, and unicornfish that spar and horn-joust like the mythic beast.
I could have spent hours swimming there, in silence, away from the noisy city. Even though I eventually climb back up to the yacht, I knew that my time spent in that underwater palace would remain cherished memories.
As well as excellent diving, Sharm is close enough to the South Sinai desert that you can enjoy the sumptuous dunes with no problem. Many local and international tour operators include daily excursions including camel rides and jeep safaris.
After enjoying everything about my snorkeling experience, I went to the dryness of the Sinai. Throughout our journey to the deep desert, I was fascinated by the tribes of nomads, called Bedouins, who seemed able to live in the arid inhospitality of the desert.
They have adapted themselves brilliantly over the years to desert life, even though I can imagine how prettier and more romantic the sight of them must have been a couple of generation ago – with no piles of rubbish, no 4-wheel drives and no TV.
One thing that has survived ‘the progress of the western world’ is the beautiful bond between Bedouins and their camels. It is still the Bedouin’s constant companion. He drinks its milk; he feasts on its flesh; he covers himself with its skin; he makes his tent of its hair. Its dung is used as fuel. It is his shelter in the cold winter nights and protector against sandstorms. It is the special gift of Allah: Ata’ Allah.
The camel has now predominantly been exchanged for the 4-wheel-drive, but they still play an important part. Trained racing and carrying tourists on camel treks, they assist the Bedouin in becoming part of Sinai’s growing sources of income.
Its camels aren’t the only tool that attracts tourists though. South Sinai’s landscape is phenomenal. A silhouette of silver mountains, they shadowed the beautifully rich colours that were unforgettably inspiring.
A series of bays with innumerable and extraordinary coral reefs, Egypt has made a goal of turning the Red Sea into the new Riviera.
And the signs of development are everywhere: half-built Moorish domes, fieldstone walls in progress and lonely, unopened hotels. Even the nightlife in this Muslim city is modern and developed, and in fact- quite liberated. In 2005, Little Buddha, a sushi bar, took the title of having the longest continuous bar in the Middle East. Even dance club franchise Pacha has one of its three African clubs in Sharm. These nightclubs and restaurants contribute greatly to the lifestyle led by Sharm el-Sheikh’s tourists each year.
Yet, the signs of development have also had other effects: high-rise hotels stain Sharm’s exquisite coast, and an onslaught of European tourists have turned this once traditional, ethnic port into a hub for tour operators, bars, and all-inclusive resorts.
But don’t be dismayed. Sharm has a stretch of silky sandy beaches you will struggle to find elsewhere and coral as bright as you can imagine that it still shouldn’t be missed. So when you book your ticket, just remember Cousteau’s words.
Sharm el-Sheikh should be remembered for one of the best coral reefs in the world. Don’t let the rest put you off.
TRAVEL INFORMATION
WHERE TO STAY
A few resorts offers luxury on a silver plate like does Hyatt Regency Sharm El Sheikh.
Located only 10 mins from the International Airport and less than an hour’s flight from Cairo, Hyatt Regency resort is embraced by the spectacular land and seascapes of mother nature. The unparalleled resort offers an extraordinary blend of international cuisine restaurants and entertainment including folkloric Egyptian dances and music.
All 471 spacious rooms and suites provide magnificent views of the Red Sea from its immense balconies.
SHARMELSHEIKH.REGENCY.HYATT.COM
WHAT TO DO
DIVING
There are over 20 renowned dive sites around Sinai – including the world-famous Ras Mohammad Marine Nature Reserve.
Cfun Divers are the guys to organize your snorkeling and diving trips with. The staff is fully licensed and insured. You will feel at ease with these professionals.
CAMEL RIDES, BEDOUIN DINNER AND STARGAZING
You can enjoy a 30 minute camel ride, before tasting the Bedoin’s delicious cuisine and trying Egypt’s shisha, a traditional water pipe.
SHARM-CLUB.COM/ACTIVITIES_SHARM_EL_SHEIKH/BEDOUIN_TOURS_SINAI.HTM
THE MONASTERY OF SAINT-CATHERINE
A formidable, fortified monastery, built in the 6thC under the Roman Empire on what was regarded as the place of Moses’ Burning Bush.
MOUNT SINAI (OR MOUNTAIN OF MOSES)
Sacred to Muslims, Jews and Christians, Mount Sinai overlooks the monastery of Saint Catherine at 2285m. You can expect some great views at sunset and sunrise.
HOW TO GET THERE
There are daily flights from the UK to Sharm El Sheikh. It takes 5h30 from Manchester and 5 hours from London.
Words and images Vincent Bernier Editor Natasha Al-Atassi
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MADEIRA TRAVEL: HAVE YOUR CAKE AND EAT IT
WHEN THE SUBJECT OF PORTUGESE TRAVEL WAS BROACHED, THE FIRST THINGS THAT SPRANG TO MIND WERE OVERCROWDED ALGARVE BEACHES, PORTO WINE AND CRISTIANO RONALDO. NOT OVERJOYED BY THE PROSPECT OF SPENDING A HOLIDAY NEXT TO 18-30 YEAR-OLD PASTY BRITS AND COMING TO THE CONCLUSION THAT RONALDO PROBABLY WON’T BE PASSING ME IN THE STREET, I WAS STARTING TO BECOME VERY GRATEFUL FOR THE WINE. THANKFULLY THOUGH, THE PORTUGUESE OFFERING I WAS EMBARKING ON WAS TO THE SMALL ISLAND OF MADEIRA. DESPITE MY EXCITEMENT OF COPIOUS AMOUNTS OF MADEIRA CAKE BEING QUASHED WHEN I FOUND OUT IT DOESN’T ACTUALLY EXIST ON THE ISLAND, I MADE FINDINGS ABOUT THIS REMOTE ISLE AND WHAT ENCHANTED BEAUTIES IT HAS TO OFFER, THAT I HAD NEVER IMAGINED. SURPRISING MYSELF AND MY BRIEF KNOWLEDGE OF ITS FEW EXPORTS, I DISCOVERED THAT THERE WERE MANY REASONS TO VISIT MADEIRA, BEYOND AND ABOVE ITS NAME-SAKE CAKE.
Situated to the south of Portugal and resting directly west of Morocco, Madeira is a phenomenal discovery. Isolated, over 1000km from the Algarve, visiting Madeira brings the thrill and mystery of uncovering a remote and lonely island far from any cultural distinctions.
This little hotspot was founded by chance in 1419, when Portuguese travelers detoured after their ship wrecked. Since then, this once sleepy, Atlantic outpost has attracted its fair share of grey-haired holiday-makers thanks to its year-round warm and pleasant micro-climate and its countless golf courses.
But don’t let this put you off, the island has attracted tourists since the 19th Century and now the words ‘cool’ and ‘hip’ can be banded around freely as in more recent years as the island has attempted to give its silver-haired image a makeover.
AGENT2 has set out to find what now attracts younger globetrotters like us to Madeira
Funchal, Madeira’s capital, is an ideal place to start. With the airport nearby, and a city bursting with things to do, it is a great location to ‘set up camp’.
The largest cosmopolitan city offers the visitor both a fantastic urban life and a view of the natural beauties of this small island. Cocooned in a wide valley, the city spreads itself over the gentle harbour slopes to the high mountain tops, reaching over 1200m to the cushioned area in between.
The best way to get a panoramic view of the populous city is by cable car, which will also allow you an excellent, birds-eye-view of Funchal Bay.
The 11 minute journey to the summit at Monte are well worth it. As well as a fantastic vista of Funchal’s lively city, you can also treat yourself to a view of 35,000 m2 of flowerbeds and 2,000 exotic plants visible at the city’s Botanical Gardens (montepalace.com) For an exhilarating ride back down the hill, opt for traveling by a basketwork sledge. Breakneck speeds are achieved so beware; this method of transport is not suggested for the faint hearted. We can safely say that this option distances Funchal easily from the “O.A.P. massive” that the island had become synonymous with.
Funchal’s Farmer’s Market (pbase.com/alpiner/) is the perfect antidote to life-threatening outdoor activities. At the centre point of the town, the market is set in a huge space typifying the region’s Art-Deco-like, New State architecture (Estado Novo.)Vibrant and bustling fresh fish, vegetables and other local delicacies are poured over by locals and tourists alike.
Funchal is also Madeira’s focal point for bars and clubs. Sip cocktails by the pool of any of its newest, hip hotels. Head to the harbour for clubs and bars; seek out Vespas (myspace.com/vespasclub.com), the island’s largest club, for late nights and outdoor summer parties. Chic new eateries are aplenty in the city if great food, conversation and people watching are your thing.
Madeira’s all-year-found temperate climate has produced a landscape that is carpeted in lush vegetation. To get a glimpse of the island’s many vineyards, sugar cane groves and sparkling green hills, take part in a trek. Indeed, walking is the perfect way to view Madeira’s splendid scenery – without breaking the bank. The Levada Walks are walking trails that allow you to trek alongside Madeira’s Levadas (mini-canals), that date back to the 15th Century. You can opt for a guide or journey beside Madeira’s unique water-supply system alone. Although the Levadas were constructed primarily for agricultural use they are just as important for tourists and local people alike who want to enjoy outdoor adventure activities inaccessible by cars.
One of the most popular – and manageable – treks has to be the Levada do Rabacal. (madeira-levada-walks.com/blog/) Surrounded by a vibrant, sub-tropical forest of laurels, myrtle and other plants that retain their intense green colour all year-round, it’s not hard to guess why the aristocrats from the old continent loved the island enough to move here many moons ago.
Being an island, it goes without saying that Madeira is as much about the sea as it is about land. Madeira lies far into the Atlantic Ocean, 310 miles from Morocco and twice as far from mainland Portugal. Located along the migratory path of many different species of marine animal. Madeira offers the opportunity to spend a day whale and dolphin watching. This is a must for any traveler wishing to take in the truly unique aspects of Madeira’s geographical position.
As the sun beats down on the ocean, there is nothing more beautiful than the variety of dolphins you can spot (Common, Oceanic and Stipped). If you’re very fortunate, watch whales as they dart across the boat’s hull, and skim the waves with simultaneous speed and grace.
After exerting all of your energies, what better way to kick back than to relax with a light lunch and generous amount of that famous Madeira wine – well, it would be rude not to, wouldn’t it?
The beautiful 19th Century hotel, Estalagen do Vale (estalagemdovale.com) is the perfect place to sample some of Madeira’s gastronomic delights. Having taken on many guises in its life – from school to hospital – Estalagen do Vale is a unique insight into Madeira’s architecture and history, as well as a brilliant place to work your way through Madeira’s vast collection of wines.
Drinking to excess aside, Madeira has long been famed for the curative qualities of its climate. Yet another reason to enjoy Madeira’s ever-warm climate, as if you’d need one. For another welcome reason to leave the weight of the world behind you, visit the newly opened Spa de Quintinha, where rest, relaxation and reinvigoration are available in abundance (quintinhasaojoao.com) AGENT2 recommends the invigorating hydration treatment. Exfoliating the body with red fruits followed by a full body massage, this therapy should be on the top of any ‘R and R’ seekers wish list. The spa also offers a range of other services from anti-cellulite treatments to body-firming mud wraps that will ensure their newly acquired younger globetrotters will stay looking younger for longer.
Madeira has also become a hub for youthful activity with its growing popularity amongst surfers. Dubbed the Hawaii of Europe, Madeira’s wold-famous Jardim do Mar beach (surfline.com/surf-report/jardim-do-mar-madeira_6953/) is only a 20 minute drive Ponta do Sol, on the southern coast. Free shuttles also run from the Estalagem do Ponte that brings you to the levada walks and Funchal Airport.
After my stay, I definitely approve Madeira’s effort to rejuvenate the island’s reputation. Madeira has become a delicious attraction for the younger crowd, offering everything from clear blue skies, warm air and piercing sunlight, to mouth-watering wine, delightful fish and jaw-dropping natural beauty. Together with its welcoming Moorish and Mediterranean atmosphere, this transformation has seemed to come effortlessly, for I can see no reason not to come back to Madeira, again and again and again.
Madeira definitely takes pride of place on my destination much-loved list. You might not find Ronaldo or even Madeira cake here on the island, but it is a place of magical discoveries sure to enchant and entice every single type of traveler, from young to old.
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Madeira is located South of Portugal and West of Morocco and has an all-year-round warm climate.
Currency is the Euro (£1 = €1.14).
easyJet flies from London Stansted to Madeira from £30.99 one way (£54.98 return) including tax. To book visit www.easyJet.com or call 0905 821 0905
easyJet flies from Bristol to Madeira from £24.99 one way (£45.98 return) including tax. To book visit www.easyJet.com or call 0905 821 0905
easyJet flies from London Gatwick to Madeira from £33.99 one way (£57.98 return) including tax. To book visit www.easyJet.com or call 0905 821 0905
WHERE TO STAY
Nestled atop the highest cliff of the unspoiled village of Ponta do Sol, the Estalagem da Ponta do Sol is definitely worth a stay.
The fruit of the union between nature and clever design, the Estalagem do Ponta do Sol (pontadosol.com) is now member of the prestigious Design Hotels Club (designhotels.com). A renovated farm, the architects successfully achieved perfection in integrating modern concept into the breathtaking natural surroundings. The the simplicity of the decor and the innovative design pieces create a relaxing and cosy atmosphere will definitely please guests. Only 25 minutes from Funchal and 40 minutes from the airport, Ponta do Sol offers you the opportunity to explore a 500 year old traditional village as well as enjoy its beautiful surfing beaches. Prices start from €93 prpn and include breakfast.
For a complete and in-depth guide on your next Madeira visit madeira-web.com or quintas-madeira.com
Words and images Vincent Bernier
Edited Natasha Al-Atassi
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