LFW: PAUL COSTELLOE S/S 2012

IRISH DESIGNER PAUL COSTELLOE OPENED LONDON FASHION WEEK WITH A “BABY DOLL” COLLECTION TO EMPHASISE THE FEMININITY AND FLIRTY SIDE OF EVERY WOMAN.

For spring/summer 2012, Paul has been inspired by the movie “What ever happened to Baby Jane”? creating an innocent but, at the same time, dangerous and naughty look which exudes pure glamour and sophistication.

The colour palette started with neutral colours such as light beige and grey, and moved to a brighter side at the end with turquoise blue and purple.

Stripes were also a big part on womenswear, giving a touch of French chic mixed with a playful tone.

1970’s Paris inspired silhouettes, empire waistlines, swing jackets and short dresses were the main highlights.

In menswear, the long coat was the key piece of Costelloe’s collection and grey was the predominant colour in a look made for men who want to feel classy and smart, like the perfect “English gentleman”.

Costelloe’s collection adds a dose of fun and style to daily wear.

   

After the show, London Mayor Boris Johnson and BFC Chair Harold Tillman CBE announced Fashion 2012, a platform to showcase and celebrate British fashion throughout London’s Olympic year.

   

   

 

See more catwalk reports from LFW here.

www.paulcostelloe.com

Words Veronica Carpio  Images Dan Harley

 

CAPSULE #3 AT THE RICHARD YOUNG GALLERY

CAPSULE#3, AN EXHIBITION OF WORK BY 47 FORTHCOMING 2011 GRADUATES FROM BA (HONS) FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY (LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION), IS CURRENTLY BEING FEATURED AT THE RICHARD YOUNG GALLERY IN KENSINGTON UNTIL THE 11^TH OF JULY.

Richard Young, the UK’s most successful celebrity photographer, and The London College of Fashion have organised this show to help launch the fashion photography stars of the future.

The work on display showcases the different styles of fashion photography created by these students, giving them the opportunity to get more public exposure.

Supermodel and David Bailey’s ex-wife Marie Helvin, Richard Young and Jeremy Gilbert from Nikon were the judging panel tasked to find and announce the 2011 winner, Sandra Madelane, who received the latest Nikon D7000 camera with an 18-105mm lens as a prize.

Sandra is originally from Latvia, where she studied documentary photography, graphic design and furniture design before coming to London.

Whilst studying in LCF, Sandra developed an interest in conceptual art and fine art photography, eventually combining both with fashion photography. For Sandra, the concept defines the value of the art work.

She commented: “For this particular project I knew that I wanted to create a still life image. The idea was born from my dissertation subject where I tried to explore the question of whether a female form can be used in still life photography and stand for an object rather than a subject.

The concept of this project was based on exploring the ideas of consumerism and people constantly purchasing goods they do not need and to illustrate a process of a human body being disassembled into pieces as a doll that is told how to shop and adorn itself. Particularly, I wanted to highlight the power of accessories, which are placed in the spotlight and become more important than the person wearing them.

In the future I would like to continue blending the border between fashion imagery and conceptual art in my photographic work.”

A 64 page full-colour catalogue supported by printers Chapter Press and design consultants Sampson May has been created to accompany the exhibition and is available to buy at the Richard Young Gallery, as well as the prints themselves, which is a great chance to purchase work from “the future Mario Testinos”.

Check out AGENT2′s story on the LCF Graduate Fashion Show 2011 here.

Capsule#3

Richard Young Gallery
4 Holland Street
W8 4LT London

For more info visit: www.richardyounggallery.co.uk

Words Veroníca Carpio Martín  Images Dan Harley

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ON|OFF: CHARLIE LE MINDU

A NEVER ENDING QUEUE FROM THE ENTRANCE TO MERCER STREET STUDIOS-ON/OFF’S SHOW SPACE FOR AUTUMN/WINTER 2011-ONTO SHELTER STREET SAW THAT CHARLIE LE MINDU’S SHOW WAS BUZZ WORTHY FROM BEFORE IT BEGAN. OVERSUBSCRIBED LIKE A GAZILLION SHOWS THIS SEASON, MANY OF THOSE IN WAITING SADLY NEVER MADE IT INDOORS.

The lucky ones who did however, played witness to a frightful collection of Mister Le Mindu’s quite fantastic creations. The first look that strode onto the catwalk saw a naked model doused in fake blood, the word ‘violence’ atop her head. Huge Mohicans and gas masks with pony tails followed, alongside red and black graffiti covered capes, trousers and waistcoats. Transparent plastic and lace were both key fabrics, while white and cream were seen throughout the collection. Pearls played the part of adornment, trimming and hat fastening while footwear came in the form of white leather lace ups for the guys and shaggy fur boots for the girls. The final look of the fourteen was a creation made from lace and hair, with a blood dyed train falling from a lace eagle sitting on the model’s blonde wig.

Cleverly using virginal fabrics alongside bare breasts, forms of vandalism and crucifix‘s-made of tape and seen across the genital area-Le Mindu’s Autumn/Winter collection was a whole load of confliction, set to a soundtrack of squealing pigs. The ‘music’ together with an over spilling room simply added to the drama of the clothes, creating a feeling of claustrophobia and panic; quite the spectacle for all present.

Words Zoe Whitfield

 

ON|OFF: BRYCE AIME

FRENCH BORN BRYCE AIME HAS CREATED A HUGE BUZZ AROUND HIS WORK SINCE HIS DEBUT SHOW AT LONDON FASHION WEEK FOR S/S 2009 AND HIS WINTER 2011 COLLECTION WAS NO DIFFERENT, WITH AN EAGER QUEUE STRETCHING DOWN THE STREET OUTSIDE THE ON/OFF VENUE IN COVENT GARDEN BY THE TIME I ARRIVED.  ENTITLED ‘MILITARIUM’, THE CENTRAL ST MARTIN GRADUATE TOOK HIS INSPIRATION FOR THE COLLECTION FROM ‘THE MILITARISTIC FEATURES OF AN ARMY BARRACKS’. IN AN EXCITABLE, RAVE LIKE ATMOSPHERE COMPLETE WITH LED BACKDROP AND SWEEPING LASERS THE MODELS MARCHED ONTO STAGE LIKE MEMBERS OF A FUTURISTIC ARMY.

The military influence was obvious in the angular lines, rigid structures and geometric panelling, topped with highly stylised headgear in the form of Perspex helmets. Built up shoulders gave an exaggerated silhouette and the shades were an authoritarian mix of black, grey and white. Hair and make-up matched; coal black smudges over unnaturally pale skin, dark lips, dramatic eyes (including black contact lenses) and white blonde hair cut into asymmetric shapes.

The heavily structured tailoring of the collection was taken to the extreme with a 3D geometrically shaped flexiglass suit covering the whole of the model like some futuristic piece of armoury. These protruding shapes were mimicked in the accessories collection – a first for Aime – including panelled clutches and slim backpacks designed in collaboration with Bracher Emden. It’s not difficult to imagine Lady GaGa in these pieces (she’s apparently already a fan) – Aime’s work has already appeared in a Rhianna video.

It wasn’t all avant-garde extremism, however. Amongst the more conceptual pieces were some more ready to wear items, including structured & panelled black dresses with short, flared skirts. Retaining the military feel, capelets covered the shoulders mimicking epaulettes on an army uniform. Futuristic digital prints covered pale leggings and blouses and black chiffon skirts draped to the floor, contrasting with the structured tailoring and softening what could have been an overly harsh or androgynous look.

Words Tamsin Worrad

 

VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT: LAKO BUKIA

LEATHER SEEMS TO BE AN ONGOING TREND IN 2011-2012 AUTUMN/ WINTER COLLECTIONS AND LAKO BUKIA WAS NO DIFFERENT. STARRY EYED MAKE UP AND SMOULDERING LIPS GAVE AN EDGE OF SEXY SOPHISTICATION TO SEE US THROUGH THE WINTER MONTHS.

Every one of her collections has been highly anticipated and it is strikingly obvious why. Her beautiful use of chiffon drooping in between bullet cases strapped around the models bustier and used as military style belts, made the fierce models look like lady-killers on a mission.

And Bukia has not shied away from using a number of different tan leathers. Blacks, browns and maroons were seamlessly matched with fine soft hue shirts in pink and natural tones. Straps of leather cover the models dignity in a way that is elegant. Wear a chic shirt underneath and you have the makings of an unusual and urbane outfit.

She is a designer who is a lover of clean lines and perfect symmetry. Her tight maroon leather shorts and tailored shirts showcased powerful femininity that has been at the forefront of London Fashion Week.

Pretty angelic dresses with fish scale necklines were the epitome of the collection. With the slick plum lips and complicated plated hair, the overall look and styling of the show was eye catching. Every new look that came down the catwalk took my breath away. I wanted every piece on offer.

Lako Bukia AW11 full show from VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Words Jennifer Butler

 

 

VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT: ZIAD GHANEM

TO ME LONDON FASHION WEEK IS ALL ABOUT SHOWING OFF AND BRINGING NEW IDEAS TO THE TABLE, EVEN IF THEY ARE NOT INSTANTLY WEARABLE. ZIAD GHANEM WAS A DESIGNER THAT I HAD TO SEE, AND WITH BOY GEORGE IN THE AUDIENCE YOU KNEW IT WAS GOING TO BE A STIMULATING SHOW.

Why the Freemasons Hall was used instead of the BFC Catwalk Show Space I cannot be sure. More space would of allowed this eccentric designer to show off even more of his pierced, tattooed and plus sized models.

Everyone in the audience was in good spirits even though it started an hour late, making it roughly 9pm by the time it began. It was intimate and friendly as people were getting ready for the last night of after show parties.

The show started with a winged gothic angel, with a black mouth like the joker from batman. Her large emerald green feathered fans swooped as she sashayed down the catwalk at 7ft tall on a wheeled contraption. The crowd applauded at not only quite an entrance, but the beauty of the black couture gown on display.

White make up with red stained tears and black smiles fitted with the Personal Jesus soundtrack and married couple who wouldn’t look out of place in a Tim Burton film. Full bosomed women and cross dressing men set foot on the catwalk.

A beautiful floor length black and brown dress with a white eagle printed on the front was the most wearable piece of the show. But this show wasn’t always about being practical.

Pretty veiled dresses in light greys, whites and lilacs with veils slipped over the models faces would be perfect for the more elaborate wedding. Every inch was luxury and excess. Embroidered bodices and Asian printed capes, large feathered headwear and lace gowns filled the small venue. Every piece was assembled and fitted perfectly on a number of shapely models. It was enough to make the mouth water in excitement for the collection.

Ziad Ghanem AW11 edit from VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Words Jennifer Butler  Images Christopher Day

 

SHOP, EAT, SLEEP!

LONDON, AS ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST FASHIONABLE CAPITALS, OFFERS A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE FOR SHOPAHOLICS, FASHIONISTAS AND ANYONE LOOKING FOR THE LASTEST FASHION ACCESSORY OR BARGAIN.

The famous American quote, “the city that never sleeps”, perfectly defines the busy, Oxford Street, well-known for high-street fashion with lots of trendy stores such as: Topshop, a tourist spot on its own, and the largest branch of the country renown for its straight-from-the-catwalk high-street versions, Primark, Zara, the Spanish retailer boasts high-quality and exclusive designs at high-street prices, River Island, offers a chic British style and interesting collections from graduate fashion designers and also, Mango, GAP, Jane Norman, Dorothy Perkins, Office, New Look.

The area also hosts luxury department stores such as: John Lewis, House of Fraser and Debenhams and Selfridges, the uber chic store has recently opened The Shoe Galleries, with 4,000 shoes on display and 55,000 in stock, this shoe-paradise is the biggest in the world.

For a more exclusive feel, the iconic Carnaby Street offers a unique shopping experience with a large number of mid-range fashion boutiques such as Miss Sixty, Replay, Diesel, Fornarina, to name a few and also the quintessentially British department store, Liberty, very well-known for its trademark prints, high end designer clothes and exclusive cosmetics that are very hard to find anywhere else.

The elegant Regent Street, also boasts numerous flagship stores such as Banana Republic, Ted baker, The Apple Store, Levis, Guess, Ferrari, Karen Millen, the world- famous toy shop, Hamleys, very popular amongst tourists, and traditional British labels such as Burberry and Jaeger.

For pure luxury, swanky Bond Street is home to the world’s most famous retailers. The northern part is called New Bond Street, the most expensive avenue in Europe, where you can find high-end designer stores such as Armani, Dolce&Gabbana, Fendi, Louis Vitton, Prada, Versace, Miu, Miu… The southern part, Old Bond Street, boasts prestigious jewellery shops such as Tiffani & Co, Leviev, Watches of Switzerland, Cartier, De Beers and also sophisticated designer boutiques such as Chanel, Ives Saint Laurent, Gucci, Alexander McQueen, DKNY. Bond Street also hosts Sotheby’s auction house, antique and art stores.

After shopping, I checked into the Radisson Edwardian Bloomsbury Street Hotel, conveniently located near popular London landmarks such as British Museum, Soho, Covent Garden, Oxford Street and Piccadilly Circus.

Following a 25 million pound makeover, this hotel has become a symbol of luxury, comfort and style. From the moment I step in, I am aware of the attention to detail and cutting-edge design. The reception boasts a wall covered by pages from Virginia Wolf’s most famous book, Mrs Dalloway and a striking art installation by Ian and Richard Able.

The bar area has a touch of exclusivity while retaining an intimate atmosphere which makes you feel welcomed and relaxed. The deep gold, crushed velvet sofas, designer curve backed chairs and bronze sculptures create a sophisticated and intimate ambiance.

The restaurant offers a very stylish décor with black leather chairs, black lacquer tables, tall scarlet vases set in alcoves and white orchids. The food menu showcases contemporary European food using the finest ingredients at a reasonable price (starting from £19.50 for two courses).

The refurbishment has added a brand new 7^th floor and the hotel boasts some of the largest bedrooms and bathrooms in London. As I enter my deluxe room, the first thing that catches my eye is the extraordinary view over the British Museum’s famous dome. The king size bed, luxurious bed linen, fine leather headboards, bespoke furniture and Baccharat chandeliers create a luxurious and cozy atmosphere.

All rooms have the latest audio/visual technology with sleek flat screen TVs and complimentary high-speed wireless.

The hotel also features one of the largest conference spaces in central London, the Folio Room, with capacity for 300 people, unique Op-Art silver walls, in-built Blu-Ray equipment and intuitive touch-screen technology.

If you are searching for a hotel with a central location, superb service, excellent food, great comfort and the latest design, look no further.

Radisson Edwardian Hotels are giving The Pay, Save and Stay offer for Christmas, which provides 20% discount from all room nights between 19th December and 9th January inclusive, plus 25% off dining throughout all hotel restaurants.

Radisson Edwardian Bloomsbury Street Hotel,

9-13 Bloomsbury Street, London, WC1B 3QD

020 7636 5601

www.radissonedwardian.com/bloomsburystreet

Words Veronica Carpio Martin

FASHION’S NIGHT OUT LONDON 2010: THE DIARY

FASHION’S NIGHT OUT: THE PARTIES, THE BUYING, THE FREE BOOZE, THE CELEBRITY SPOTTING… THE SECOND EDITION OF FNO LONDON WAS A SUCCESS BEYOND VOGUE’S WILDEST HOPES. AGENT2 DISPATCHED STYLE CONTRIBUTORS JENNIFER BUTLER (JF) AND VERÓNICA CARPIO MARTIN (VCM) FOR A MINUTE-BY-MINUTE ACCOUNT OF THE NIGHT.

6.30 pm: I head towards Great Marlborough Street and see hundreds of shoppers queuing to get a glimpse of Manolo Blahnik at Liberty . I would love to see him but I am not really keen to join the long queue. I decide to go to Topshop instead, where the Vogue fashion desk is giving styling tips and a preview of autumn/winter trends. (VCM)

7.00 pm: I am loving the party atmosphere around Oxford Street, it feels like a fashion carnival!! My next stop is Selfridges which is launching Mulberry boutique. DJ Nova Dando is playing and smartly dressed waiters are serving champagne. I take a glass of bubbly. Walking through the crowd, I spot singer-songwriter and actress Diana Vickers. (VCM)

7.30 pm: My next mission is going around New Bond Street and see what all the big names in fashion are up to. On the way, I stop at Vertice, where wine and yummy canapés are being offered, and Kurt Geiger, which is offering 25 per cent off in all shoes. Even though I am really tempted to buy a fabulous pair, I decide just to enjoy trying beautiful shoes and drinking champagne!! (VCM)

7.45 pm: At Dorothy Perkins for a few free wines followed by River Island. My friends and I try on a couple of animal hats, one with a smiley face and two bear-like ones. We push our way into Vogue free photo booth with a free Martini. Leaving the shop, we realise that we are caught up in a dance performance of “Vogue” by Madonna. The front of the shop becomes a stage, much to the surprise of traditional shoppers. (JF)

8.00 pm: We walk past Pull and Bear and see a sign saying Chew Lips are playing. After a few raspberry cocktails, they play their album on the mock up stage. The crowd tries to ignore the smell of burning and how hot it is getting in the shop. (JF)

8.30 pm: I head to Armani and, as expected, it’s full of very good-looking people, designers and photographers. I try on a lovely coat and a hat. I am really feeling like a supermodel! I am trying to spot Giorgio Armani but a sales assistant informs me that he just left! To cure my disappointment, I get a tasty cocktail at the bar, have a chat with some fashion designers and enjoy the view from the glamorous terrace, just opened for this event. (VCM)

9.00 pm: At Jimmy Choo, Bungalow 8 DJ is playing and cocktails are served a gogo. There is a photo booth to take pictures but the queue is quite long so I decide to try shoes instead. I am starting to feel the effects of too much bubbly but I am really enjoying myself! At DAKS, they have live models in the shopping window and inside the atmosphere is buzzing with lots of people trying on clothes and sharing styling tips.

Louis Vuitton and Gucci are already closing so I head to Camper where they are offering pink champagne and canapés. (VCM)

9.30 pm: We wander into Selfridges as we thought a lot would be going on in such a large store. The Shoe Lounge is handing out free Mojitos. A quick look at Lily Allen’s new line, Lucy in Disguise, shows that the pop princess has moved into fashion seamlessly. Upstairs in the menswear section, headphones are being given out. We wander around the shop looking rather silly swapping from one track to another. You can’t do any dancing and once you go on the escalators, the “silent disco” doesn’t work anymore. By 10.00 pm, much of Selfridges has turned into private parties and the crowds have dispersed. A quick look around Topshop and a pair of trousers later and I am on my way home. (JF)

See you at FNO 2011!

Words Jennifer Butler and Verónica Carpio Martin Photos Dan Harley

THE FACE

THERE WAS ONLY ONE PLACE TO SEE AND BE SEEN ON 20TH AUGUST THIS YEAR- THE FACE. MODELS, MAKE-UP ARTISTS, STYLISTS, FASHIONISTAS, DESIGNERS, PHOTOGRAPHERS, PUNKS, GOTHS, YOU NAME IT- ALL DESCENDED ON THE LEGENDARY CLUB NIGHT, INCLUDING AGENT2’s VERONICA CARPIO…

Despite a brief hiatus, The Face club night returned with a bang, promising to ‘turn London back to its best with a night celebrating eccentricity, art, eclectic music, fashion and excess’. And it certainly delivered. The Green Carnation in Soho saw a night dedicated to freedom, beauty, art, eccentricity and extravaganza with renowned DJs Steve Strange and Princess Julia hitting the decks in a celebration of 80’s fashion and music. The aim? According to party boy, model and host Alejandro Gocast, “This night is all about expressing yourself, being free, releasing the artist in you, being whoever you want to be”.

The Green Carnation is a fitting backdrop for such hedonism. A stylish bar inspired by Oscar Wilde, with elegant décor, dim lighting and green and gold walls full of quotes from the writer- “I can resist anything except temptation”- the atmosphere is a cocktail of Bohemian passion and Victorian luxury with a laid-back ambiance.

Vaudeville’s darkest muse Mr Pustra was the star of the show, presenting his fabulous new show King Midas. Covered in gold, with bruised make-up, very long lashes and extreme red lips, he moved elegantly around the stage dripping wax onto his semi-naked body, transporting the viewers to a world of decadence and melancholy. There is no attempt at storytelling, simply a creation of beauty, an experiment, a fantasy, both visually stunning and hugely entertaining.

Mr Pustra started in 2006 creating shows inspired by the 1930s, Charlie Chaplin, cabaret and burlesque, making Vaudeville’s art fashionable again. “I want to create something that is visually beautiful. I don’t do shocking things as people don’t get shocked anymore”. He looks for unexpected ways to entertain the spectator: “I am on a continuous journey of learning, always trying different things, always challenging myself”. He gets his inspiration from films, music, paintings and then creates a unique performance. “I don’t follow anyone. I just do my own thing. The most important thing is to be passionate about what you do. You have to believe in yourself and then people will believe in you”.

And this is certainly something that partygoers have taken on board- with guests encouraged to ‘Bring along a face like no other’, we can’t wait for the next one…

thegreencarnation.co.uk

Words Veronica Carpio  Images Dan Harley

GO WEST! HOTEL REVIEW

DESPITE DROPPING INTO THE CAPITAL ON A REGULAR BASIS, STRAYING FAR FROM THE WEST END NEVER SEEMS TO HAPPEN. SHEPHERDS BUSH IS A STONE’S THROW AWAY FROM CENTRAL LONDON BUT HAVING NEVER HAD A REAL REASON TO VISIT, IT HAS REMAINED OFF OUR BEATEN TRACK. NOW WITH THE OPENING OF THE WESTFIELD SHOPPING CENTRE, THE BIGGEST URBAN SHOPPING CENTRE IN EUROPE, AGENT2 FINALLY HAD A REASON TO MAKE IT A DESTINATION AND SAMPLE THE DELIGHTS OF THE STUNNING K WEST HOTEL AT THE END OF DAY OF RETAIL THERAPY.

Making your way through the revolving doors of K West Hotel, you find yourself walking straight into the lobby bar, the K Lounge. Divided into a seating area, dominated by leather and wooden furniture, and a mix of large and small tables, the bar is both minimalist and cosy. The very impressive long bar with green lighting is by far the main highlight of the space.

Near the staircase leading to the hotel’s mezzanine restaurant Kanteen, you will find abstract artwork, stones, and a very cool fire running along the wall that we at AGENT2 coveted for ourselves.

Overall, the ambiance managed to avoid the pretension of other lobby bars in Central London, despite its exciting clientele of both hotel guests and creative types working in the recording studios nearby, who meet up for unofficial parties until 2am. If you’re lucky, you may even rub elbows with some celebrities such as Girls Aloud or Franz Ferdinand. Expect the bar and restaurant to lack atmosphere at more quiet times though.

All eyes are drawn to the bartenders mixing up some cocktails and promising to surprise and tease your taste buds. The drinks menu with its list of cocktails is exhaustive at K Lounge– you will find the usual tipples from a very reasonable £6.50 as well as a few fresh new ideas direct from K West’s very knowledgeable bar tenders. Be sure to try the Funky Bitch, the Angel’s Kiss, or the Climax with a very rich mix of crème de banane, crème de cacao, triple sec, Amaretto, vodka and double cream.

The crowning glory at the K West hotel is its magnificent spa that has recently undergone a bit of pampering of its own. A £2 million refurbishment has completed the Spa with a relaxing Hydrotherapy Pool, a refreshing Snow Paradise, Sanarium, Sauna, Foot Spa, Steam, Sun Meadow as well as seven beautifully designed treatments rooms and Dry flotation Room. The Spa tops the luxurious experience of the K West, making it a spectacular and relaxing space to escape and unwind from the hustle and bustle of the ‘Big Smoke’.

With  a spa to help you soothe your cares away and a night scene where it’s definitely cool to be, well, seen K West has everything you need for a stay in the city neatly wrapped up in a well designed packaged.

Go west! Life is tasteful there.

Richmond Way
London W14
020 8008 6600

k-west.co.uk

Words Graham Gartside

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