ROSSO – DINING THAT WON’T LEAVE YOU SEEING RED
SITUATED ON MANCHESTER’S PRESTIGIOUS KING STREET, ROSSO HAS RECEIVED A SOMEWHAT LUKEWARM RECEPTION TO THE CITY’S EVER GROWING PORTFOLIO OF ITALIAN RESTAURANTS. THIS IS NOT TO SAY THERE HASN’T BEEN A GREAT DEAL OF INTEREST SURROUNDING IT; WITH THE CO-OWNER BEING MANCHESTER UNITED STAR RIO FERDINAND AND THE COUNTLESS STORIES CIRCULATING OF CELEBRITY SIGHTINGS. WOULD THE POSSIBILITY OF DINING IN THE SAME ROOM AS BILLY ZANE (AS SEEN ON THEIR WEBSITE) BE ENOUGH TO RATE ROSSO AMONGST MANCHESTER’S MANY CREDIBLE EATERIES? HAD THEIR SEVEN MONTHS OF OPENING ALLOWED FOR ANY TEETHING PROBLEMS TO BE SMOOTHED OUT? AGENT2 WENT TO SEE FOR ITSELF.
On entry, my guest and I passed through a beautiful, grand marble archway and were warmly greeted by the maitre d’ (Italian of course). En-route to our table we bypassed an impressive looking bar arrangement, which offered a wide range of fashionable Bellinis and cocktails. Had we arrived a little earlier we would certainly have indulged, but we had a seven thirty booking to stick to and more importantly we had to answer the grumbling cries from our empty stomachs. First impressions; a lot of thought had obviously been put into the decor. Themes of black, white and red running throughout. It certainly had the glamour factor yet was subtle enough to maintain the charm and elegance that this grade II listed building positively oozes. Modern, classic furnishings that pay an element of respect to over a century of history seen within these walls. My only concern was the distance between our table for two and our neighbour’s. However, this concern was only momentary as there proved to be plenty of room once we were seated.
This evening we were in the mood for red wine. With no forethought to our choice of food we went straight in. Forget the rules – tonight, red wine would suit any dish we choose. An impressive wine list on offer we were spoilt for choice. A bottle of house wine will cost you a reasonable £15.95 but if you’re feeling frivolous you could opt for a vintage 2006 Solaia Antinori Cabernet Sauvignon at a mere £265. We were recommended the Valpolicella ‘Ripassa’ (£27.95). Rich, velvety and intense fruity flavours; it hit the spot to say the least.
My guest and I were pleasantly surprised by the ambience. A steady stream of customers flowed through the doors creating a definite buzz about the place. An interesting mix of clientele readied themselves for experiencing, “an authentic example of Italian regional culinary tastes”. Time to put their mission statement to the test.
So to the food.
As you might expect from an up market establishment such as this, the menu is by no means simple. An extensive array of pizzas, pastas, meat and fish dishes was to be trawled through. A passing waiter gave us a glimpse of a delicious looking pizza, which was destined for another table. Not even reaching the £10 mark for the top end Pizza Marinara, this is surely a bargain for a quality, generously topped pizza. However, we were to venture deeper into the menu. Starters ranging from the Bruscetta con Melanzane (£3.95) to the Gamberoni al’Aglio (king prawns – £8.50) again, very reasonably priced. I chose the Terrina alla Rosso (chicken liver parfait to you and I – £6.75) and my guest decided on the prawn cocktail. A short time passed allowing us to sip on the wine until our starters arrived.
We were both taken back a little as to how busy and perhaps overcrowded our plates looked. Nevertheless we continued and the food was undoubtedly delicious. My parfait was smooth and creamy, served with Tuscan toast, red onion marmalade and a salad garnish. I got the feeling the salad was there merely to brighten up the dish. However, the heavy dressing seemed a little unnecessary as it overwhelmed the powerful combination of sweet and savoury from the parfait and red onion. The prawn cocktail again seemed a little over-complicated. Served in half a melon with star fruit and strawberry garnish the presentation seemed a little dated, perhaps better received in the 70′s or in a beachside restaurant in the Caribbean. The flavours however, were well and truly present.
Mains start at £8.25 for a traditional Tagliatelle Bolognese through to the 8oz fillet steak at £21.95. A specials menu was also available which was almost as large as the main menu. Being a fan of Halibut I was drawn to the Halibut All’agguato (£17.95) from the specials. Sat on a bed of wilted spinach and drizzled with langoustine bisque, this was the highlight of the meal. Beautifully meaty and moist and served with a side of sautéed potatoes as recommended by our waiter. The modest flavour from the bisque brought the whole dish together. My guest chose the spaghetti with lobster, in a creamy tomato and basil sauce. Confusingly, a whole lobster was positioned on top of the spaghetti. Bemused, she concluded that she would have to work a little harder than expected to retrieve the lobster meat. On closer inspection she found the shell to be empty, a sigh of relief followed. Maybe this was the chef’s way of proving that there was actually lobster in the spaghetti. We believe you. Plenty of sweet, tender chunks in a surprisingly spicy sauce with perfectly al dente pasta. A great dish.
The service was excellent throughout our visit. Friendly, informative and very attentive. These were true professional waiters. We rounded off our meal with a cheeseboard to share (£5.75). A selection of Italian cheeses with crackers, chutney and grapes. Perfect to swill down with the remainder of our wine. Other sweet options are available such as a Blueberry Crème Brulee (£4.50) and the Italian classic Tiramisu (£4.50).
Rosso appears to have taken heed to the criticism since its opening in October last year. Although I am not totally convinced this is traditional Italian cooking in its truest form, I am convinced that Rosso serves up quality food at reasonable prices. You can expect a great dining experience in beautiful surroundings and it is fair to say that they will be giving competing restaurants a run for their money.
43 Spring Gardens, Manchester
Words Dan Howell
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BOY OH BOYD’S!
IF GRANDIOSE SETTINGS ARE YOUR THING AND YOU ENJOY GOOD QUALITY CHOW BUT PREFER TO EXPERIENCE IT AT A REASONABLE EXPENSE – DON’T WE ALL – THEN BOYD’S BRASSERIE MAY JUST BE YOUR THING.
The restaurant is situated at the newly opened Northumberland Hotel within sight of Trafalgar Square, and I think it would be fair to say the large traditional entrance epitomises all one would expect from an historic London hotel – overstated, lavishly decorated and downright impressive.
The hotel’s reception opens out to a lobby that flows into a central bar, and beyond the bar is Boyd’s. In a sense, it’s a sea of marble – floors, pillars, walls, well just about everywhere. Different colours of stone are used to create accents of various features and the ornate, vaulted ceilings are certainly something to be admired. It’s a place in which you could quite possible feel there is almost too much to take in – perhaps a reason therefore to visit on a number of occasions.
But let’s get back to the centrally situated bar, the hub and perhaps focal point of the restaurant. It’s a very different story to the rest of the room – stainless steel, square and simple – a real juxtaposition to its surroundings. It evokes images of interesting individuals sitting propping it up while sipping something on the rocks from heavy tumblers. And, I’m sure in the evenings this is the case, but as we visited on a sunny Saturday afternoon, those drink swillers may well have been somewhere else basking in the rays, only to fill the place up later that evening.
There is a real air of class in this room, not only because of the marble and decorative ceilings, but the heavy, mustard-coloured curtains and solid, comfortable chairs, adorned with thick, decadent fabric. Leather booths also sweep round the room providing little cubbyholes for romantic dinners or those just wishing to be inconspicuous in the large, open setting. However although the hall would appear on first glance to be filled with echoed voices and an impersonal vibe, I really didn’t find this at all. Goodness knows how they’ve done it, but the acoustics are tweaked perfectly, without too much noise drifting from other tables, and also making sure the background music – which had a cool and calm indie feel – was agreeably audible.
What was my favourite feature at Boyd’s though? As a lass whose eye is attracted to anything which glistens, it had to be the wonderfully over-the-top chandeliers. On entering the lobby, they’re huge and round, with lots of dangling crystal strings, and in the main restaurant it’s all about traditional sweeping gold frames housing decadent, glass lamps. I was spoilt for choice on which of them to take in first.
‘Yes, but what about the food?’ I hear you cry. Well I’m getting to that. The menu we chose from this Saturday lunchtime was as plentiful and varied as any you’d expect to see in an evening sitting, and for quite an impressive monetary value too. The Little 8s section is a wonderful idea – hailed as Boyd’s tapas, there are eight small dishes to pick and chose from, all of which are just £2.50, and they include delicious treats such as London cure smoked salmon, lemon and shallot salad; fried snapper, fennel and tomato ketchup; glazed goats cheese, beetroot and balsamic; and duck hash, white onion and thyme puree.
But my partner and I decided to dig into the starters and main courses. I had a delightful chunky fish soup, rouille – for just £9 – which was hearty and extremely tasty. I would say it was a little too large for a starter if I wasn’t such a glutton when it comes to food. Also on offer for starters are egg and bacon salad (£7) and chicken liver and fois gras pate with fig chutney ad toasted brioche (£9).
On to the main courses and I was pleased to see a grill section with various cuts of Scotch beef steak priced from £20, as well as impressive gourmet burgers, from what I could see on other diners’ plates. As for the rest of the main dishes, gammon knuckle and parsley (£17), various gnocchi concoctions (£14) and other reasonably prices dishes were available, with a selection of appetising side orders to go with them.
Most desserts are £7 and all seemed to be beautifully presented, which in fact all the dishes were. This is a restaurant that really focuses on presentation both in the surroundings and the food.
If you’re looking for an all important theatre deal, Boyd’s Brasserie offer some excellent prices for this, and they even have a breakfast and brunch special if you’re nursing a sore head the morning after and fancy a bit of luxury.
All in all Boyd’s Brasserie gave me everything I could ask for in a dining experience, and the fact it was a warm day outside, meant we had much of the restaurant – and fantastic waitress – to ourselves. I can only imagine how this beautiful place must buzz of a night time. Certainly somewhere I shall be returning to in the not-so-distant future.
The Northumberland, 8 Northumberland Avenue, London, WC2N 5BY
Words Emma Zücker
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TWOTWENTYTWO MAKES A REAL MARK
LONDON’S LANDMARK HOTEL IS FAMOUS FOR ITS FIVE STAR OLD-SCHOOL LUXURY IN THE CAPITAL. ITS NEWEST ADDITION, RESTAURANT AND BAR, TWOTWENTYTWO CERTAINLY DOES LIVES UP TO ITS NAME, KEEPING UP ITS REPUTATION FOR IMPECABLE SERVICE IN LUXURIOUS AND STYLISH SURROUNDINGS.
The basement of the Landmark Hotel is the recently refurbished home of twotwentywo, a short walk from Marylebone tube. Named after the address the hotel’s situated at – 222 Marylebone Road, you may be surprised at the light, airy space that twotwentytwo delivers.
Upon entering you may be surprised by what you find. Red wooden panelling covers the walls, in keeping with the heritage of the space, highlighted by the ornate white ceiling. At the far left is an ornate heavy-wooden bar with wine bottles attractively set up behind. Casual low tables and chairs line the periphery of the space around a central area of Champagne tables: a central section of booth-like chairs nestled around tables with the middle cut out for keeping Champagne on ice.
The dining area is made up of low-key dark wooden tables, pushed against a long tan leather sofa. Beside this small space are large armchairs that you can sink into after your meal with a digestif or settle in for the whole evening as you work your way through the cocktail menu. The set-up is more gastro pub than an upmarket bar and restaurant, although therein lies its charm. Opulent twists such as beautiful chandeliers with delicate chains hanging low beneath them remind you where you are.
What stands the decor apart are carefully thought out touches that you’ll notice the longer you stay. Large gilt mirrors surround the space, and attractive Victorian lantern-style lamps can be spied with candles inside, creating a decorative appeal. The real pièce de résistance, however, are two specially-commissioned paintings depicting landmarks of London (think The Eye, Gherkin, Big Ben, St Pauls, Tower Bridge, and a London bus – number 222, of course).
The atmosphere here is surprisingly upbeat and relaxed. Local office workers visit for a post-work drink, relaxing in the attractive surroundings. The din of conversation is pleasantly high as people chill out without a hint of pretension. In the background, the music changes as the night progresses – earlier in the evening relaxed chill out tunes play, changing to jazz with Latin tones, then pop and commercial songs through to house and even RnB as the night wears on. It’s a clever way of reflecting the mood of the crowd as the drinks continue to flow.
That said, this is still an undeniably upmarket spot. The staff ensures you don’t forget where you are, their service is impeccable although it’s lined with a warmth and friendliness.
The menu at twotwentytwo is simple with dishes like fish and chips and steaks to choose from. Starters (£3-£8) include dishes such as a shellfish basque and beef carpaccio with rocket, black truffle oil and freshly shaved parmesan. However, it’s an idea to order the sharing platter instead, which is just £12 for three well-sized dishes, ideal for sharing or as a starter to your meal. Recommended is the delicate calamari with a light batter that offers no hint of greasiness. Also good is the gravadlax – slim strips of delicate salmon with a delightful saltiness underlying each mouthful and a fresh citrus dressing. Finally, try the smoked aubergine puree with mini pitas. Although the fluffy, light pittas could do with being warm, they do provide an ideal accompaniment to the fresh, creamy puree with a pleasant smoky aftertaste.
Mains include a range of dishes from salads to grills. Particularly good is the seafood risotto (£16.50) with generous helpings of softly cooked calamari and plump, rich king prawns although there’s little evidence of the promised crab. There are also large mussels that slip out of their shells with ease. The risotto is a pleasant consistency. Although creamy, it doesn’t taste like rice pudding, instead highlighting the strong flavours of the seafood.
If you want to go all out, then the fillet steak is a house specialty although at £25 it’s not the most credit crunch friendly dish. Nicely presented, although not a hearty portion, it comes with a metal pot filled with chips. The chips are lightly salted and delightfully crisp on the outside with a soft, fluffy middle. It also comes with a delicious homemade béarnaise sauce that offers a creamy, rich undertone to each mouthful. The medium-rare steak was juicy, tender and full of rich flavours that pleasantly filled the mouth and was brilliantly complemented by the creamy béarnaise.
There are a few desserts on offer (£5.50). The apple crumble with homemade custard is a little disappointing. The crumble isn’t as sweet as it could be and the fruit is a little too gloopy. However, the delightful custard is creamy and light with a rich vanilla flavour that lifts the flavours nicely. The chocolate fondant with butterscotch ice cream, however, is a real delight. The chocolate is smooth, soft and rich and is well complemented by the sweetness of the ice cream, which has a strong butterscotch taste that works in tandem with deep chocolate flavours. Delightful.
For an impromptu inexpensive night out, twotwentytwo also offers special food deals such as a burger and chips with a glass of wine for a tenner.
There’s a lengthy drinks list in the bar with a good choice of cocktails (priced at the £11 mark), premium spirits, aperitifs and digestifs. They also offer some well-priced Champagnes, especially nice if enjoyed at the Champagne tables. A glass of Taittinger Brut Reserve (£15) is especially good with a fresh, clean taste that slips down a little too easily.
There’s a decent selection of wine by the bottle, although it’s not the lengthy tome of drinks you may expect from a venue like this. The helpful staff are happy to make recommendations and really know what they’re talking about. A highlight of the menu is the Gavi di Gavi Casetta 2007 (£30), a dry fresh and fruity white wine that has a wonderfully clean flavour. Also excellent is the Petit Chablis Chateau de Maligny 2007 (£34) with a delightful pale straw colour and a clean finish with lemon and apple flavours coming through.
For a bar and restaurant located within a five star hotel, twotwentytwo is surprisingly relaxed and offers a few lower priced deals if you’re watching the pennies but want to go somewhere upmarket.
For more information visit twotwentytwo-london.com or landmarklondon.co.uk. Opening hours: Monday to Friday 11:30am – Midnight, Saturday 12pm – Midnight. To make a dining reservation contact dining@thelandmark.co.uk.
twotwentytwo ,The London Landmark Hotel, 222 Marylebone Road, London, NW1 6JQ
Words Graham Gartside
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A RARE PEARL INDEED – HOLBORN’S PEARL RESTAURANT REVIEWED
IF YOU’VE NEVER BEEN TO PEARL RESTAURANT IN CENTRAL LONDON BEFORE, I CAN ASSURE YOU YOU’RE MISSING OUT – AND FOR SO MANY DIFFERENT REASONS. NOT ONLY IS THE MENU ONE OF THE MOST ASTOUNDINGLY BRILLIANT THINGS WE’VE SEEN HERE AT AGENT2 MAGAZINE, BUT THE DÉCOR, SURROUNDINGS AND AMBIENCE ARE QUITE BREATHTAKING.
But first, let me explain to you just what Pearl, part of the Chancery Court Hotel in High Holborn, is all about. The kitchen is lead by executive head chef, Jun Tanaka, who has featured in a host of cookery programmes and worked at countless Michelin star restaurants, and in this restaurant concentrates on a modern French-fusion menu.
The building was originally the grand banking hall of Pearl Assurance which was built in 1912. And it really is grand. The tremendously tall ceilings are supported by great big, marble pillars, all originals, as well as ornate cornicing and decadent coving.
What’s beautiful about the building is the original design being left untouched. Creators of Pearl Restaurant have developed a real juxtaposition in the addition of modern, chic and simple lines. It means the grandiose of the original building is softened by slightly more understated fixtures, fittings and furniture.
Although there is a reception area, bar and dining room, on closer inspection it becomes apparent that it’s one big, conjoined space which has been cleverly divided up into welcoming, seemingly separate areas.
My dining partner and I are eager to experience the impressive bar when we arrive, so pull up a stool and select our tipple. In this lounge area, rows of pearls hang from chrome rails which create subtle dividers between tables and booths, keeping the flow and openness unspoilt while adding a touch of privacy.
The long bar, which stretches almost the width of the room is polished and packed with rows of sparkly glasses and liqueur bottles, and the delicate sounds of a Nora Jones-esque live singer-pianist float up and down the room.
Just around the corner is the dining room, which is separated merely by the bar length, and still benefits from the live music, but transcends a whole different atmosphere – a little more intimate and private, even though the room is quite open plan. The carefully positioned waste-height dividers work their magic without diners even noticing.
On the tables, the slightly pearlescent charger plates swirled with sugary pink match the tiny vases and, I’m told, are commissioned by a local artist to ensure these ornaments are owned by no one but Pearl – an almost unnecessary touch, adding to the all-round beauty.
However, we may well be taken by the atmosphere and air of sophistication, but the reason we dine out is for the food. And on first catching sight of Pearl, my wish is that the cuisine will be as tantalising on the tongue as the restaurant is on the eye. I am not disappointed.
The menu gives a set price for one, two or three courses, but a lot more is offered here, including aperitifs and an amuse-bouche – a beetroot jelly with celeriac foam and chestnut shavings. Just the thought of it now makes my mouth water – the textures, colours and flavours are so perfectly balanced, it feels like utter concentration is essential to fully appreciate the tiny dish.
Starter is followed by the main course – a whole crispy duck, which serves two, hand carved at your table and presented with seasonal vegetables, plum sauce and onion fondant which is impossible to avoid being seduced by. An astounding course.
And then for dessert, why not combine lots of flavours – honey, apple, thyme, cheese – make them into ice cream, jelly and foam, and display them in tiny globules all over the plate? When combined in one mouthful, the flavours are nothing short of heaven.
This is a place which impresses in so many different ways which all combine to create a truly memorable dining experience. Vive la Pearl.
Words Emma Zücker
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ONE IN VERMILION
OPULENCE IS THE KEY WORD AT VERMILION. ROYAL, REGAL AND DIVINE ARE THE OTHERS. MAKING AN ENTRANCE ON THE RED CARPET BETWEEN TWO HUGE STATUESQUE LIONS, A MOAT OF STILL LIT-UP WATER AND A THREE-STOREY RESTAURANT GLOWING WITH REDS AND GOLD, I COULD’VE THOUGHT I’D JUST STEPPED INTO THE SHANGRI-LA. BUT AS WE PASS THROUGH THE MAGNIFICENT ENTRANCE INTO A WORLD OF ASIAN CHARM, I AM GREETED WITH A SENTENCE THAT DRAWS ME STRAIGHT BACK TO MANCHESTER. “GOOD EVENING,” HE SAYS. “WELCOME TO VERMILION AND CINNABAR.”
Set outside of town, in Manchester’s Sport City, Vermilion and Cinnabar have made a name for themselves as the ultimate ‘destination restaurant’. If you come all this way, you most definitely do it for a treat. And at Vermilion, they have a few of those tucked up their sleeves. Ascending our way to the second-floor restaurant, my senses are imploding from the abundance of architectural and design features, the exotic scents that wisp delicately through the perfumed air and the charming ambiance of the low-lit room.
To really appreciate this 200-seater restaurant and 400-standing cocktail bar, Vermilion and Cinnabar first needs explanation. Set in, what can only be described as an industrial site, opposite the Manchester City grounds, this palace most definitely stands out. Fusing ultra-modern chic design with traditional Asian antiquities, Miguel Cancio Martins, famous for designing Paris’ Buddha Bar, definitely left his mark on Manchester with this effort.
The £5.2million project includes a majestic display of huge Buddha heads, a plethora of statues and exquisite screens, a central Buddha tower that runs through each floor, a temperature-controlled wine-cellar, two huge kitchens, one for the Indian cuisines and one for the rest; and of course, the spectacular private top-floor bar complete with footballer-friendly VIP sections.
Painted with a Vermilion red stain, the entire building succumbs to the opulence of its mystical Asian theme. Together with dim lights and candle-lit tables, the restaurant glows with a magenta sheen, adding warmth and fire to this spicy establishment. Flat pewter-hammered plates on circular mosaic tables give Vermilion its Indian authenticity, whilst jet black screens laced with spotlights, hanging lanterns and giant bamboo sticks merge this with a truly Oriental mystery.
Black chairs painted with Chinese water coloured flowers lends itself to Asia’s misty green waters and the plink-plonk music gives Vermilion a chilled-out ‘Beach’ vibe that Alex Garland would be proud of. Yet, the bright rich colours, amber tiles and wall of floating flowers transports you to praying on the Ganges River in India. These detailed references to Oriental and Indian images makes for quite a difficult combination, but its fusion in the food is where it works best.
Choosing the Christmas Party Menu (£20pp), we were able to taste a wide range of Vermilion’s dishes from its thick, spicy Indian curries to its Chinese starters and famous Thai cuisines created by Chatchai Jamjang – “Thailand’s answer to Gordon Ramsay,” so we were informed.
And we were here to taste the legend. Sweet nutty chicken Satay, sharp fresh salmon sushi and succulent strips of rich chicken tikka cooked in a separate clay oven, succeeded as the first remarkable attempt at combining these incredibly different Asian flavours. The strong spices and smoky chicken contrasted surprisingly well with the fresh and light sushi rolls.
The next selection of dishes proved to be the ultimate in culinary combinations. The thick tomato curry of Deshi Lamb, the sweet chill kick of Phad Thai Prawns, a Vietnamese-tasting selection of Seasonal Vegetables in soy sauce, and Chinese stir fried Turkey Kra-Praow provided a brilliant apprenticeship in the best of Asia’s fine food. Nutty crunchy textures contrasted with crispy dried spinach, slick Chinese sauces, delicious lentil-thick curries, and soft sticky Jasmine Rice; sugary sweet flavours sat next to the chilli kick of the Pad Thai; citrus and basil blended effortlessly with the warm spicy curry; and thick succulent lamb accompanied the juicy prawns deliciously.
Combinations that might be deemed a hotch-potch of flavours seemed, for some peculiar reason, to work. I guess combining the finest in Asia’s shared ingredients was bound to make a perfect blend
For an after-dinner sup, head to Cinnabar. At the top of the spiral staircase that encircles a column of illuminating ‘floating’ Buddha heads, you will find the intimate and stylish cocktail bar.
Contrasting with Vermilion’s rich traditional features, decadent scarlet and burnt oranges, Cinnabar welcomes a more contemporary design with a giant bubble-ball ceiling, bright coloured seats and six steel pods where guests can recline next to each other at a cool £500 minimum-spending bar tab.
Cinnabar most definitely lends itself to a totally different vibe than Vermilion, looking more London 1960s than Indian or Thailand. But then this is probably quite a welcome scenery change, for a visit to Vermilion and Cinnabar, on the very outskirts of town, means that after a drink, you won’t be going anywhere else.
Totally chilled out, complete with a separate open-plan VIP cushioned area, the restaurant and bar together, have created the perfect package for the complete night out. Good because it’s a more than a trek back to the City Centre.
Everything at Vermilion and Cinnabar is carefully crafted and superbly detailed. You welcome the breaks in between courses just so you can go for a bit of a wander through the labyrinthine building. Its huge luxurious furnishings give the building a decadent edge that still emanates distinctive Asian designs, without the garish presence of billowing waterfalls and giant fish tanks.
It has thought of everything – a grand palace to absorb the interest of passersby and send intrigue running through restaurant sites; a huge car park to invite guests, guests and more guests; a wallet-friendly menu; private banqueting suites and function rooms for the all-inclusive parties and staff dos; an expensive and elite bar where premiership footballers squander their money, but most importantly, delicious authentic cuisines that combine the rich spices of India and the fresh flavour of East Asia. To me, by far, its selling point.
But then again, leaving on the red carpet in between two impressive stone lions, symbols of not just royalty, but also of England, Vermilion and Cinnabar proves that it’s its metaphoric fusion of just about everything that makes it a destination restaurant worth making the trip for.
And I guess, at a push, I could get used to hobnobbing with millionaire footballers, if I had to.
Words Natasha Al-Atassi
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SOHO CHIC AT KETTNER’S
December 9, 2009 by Editor
Filed under Uncategorized
THERE AREN’T MANY RESTAURANTS IN LONDON THAT HAVE AS MUCH HISTORY AND CLAIM TO FAME AS KETTNER’S OF SOHO. ONCE POPULAR WITH EDWARD VII, OSCAR WILDE AND AGATHA CHRISTIE, THE 19THC RESTAURANT IS NOW BACK IN FULL FORCE AFTER A SUMPTUOUS REVAMP.
Originally opened in 1867 by Auguste Kettner, chef to Napoleon III, the restaurant fast became a favoured hangout for a number of important figures. Close to the stage doors of Soho, it was a popular and somewhat exclusive place to dine. So it’s no wonder that the recent refurbishment was aimed at sprucing Kettner’s back to its original self, celebrating the classic decor of its heyday.
Everything is elaborate and exudes a vintage chic, alluding to its rich and colourful past. The interior is light, luxurious and sparkles with chandeliers, candles and traditional lights which all contribute to a shabby-elegant style. Oversized, Parisian white-framed mirrors are hung decadently on the walls, and diners can huddle around traditional French-design tables and chairs. Through the centre of the main dining room, a slab of marble on ornate iron legs sweeps right through the centre, with comfy looking stools for visitors to perch on, and a smattering of domed, art-deco lamps illuminate the warmly lit space.
It’s warm and inviting, and it’s clear that every customer feels this. Think relaxed Parisian café, combined with gracious elegance of a well-designed and upmarket restaurant. And the downstairs restaurant isn’t all that’s on offer either. There are an endless maze of rooms of different sizes and purposes, to cater for all who passes through Kettner’s doors.
The pudding bar, for example, is French and is open for tea, a light lunch, an informal rendezvous or a late night treat and is always bursting at the seams with home-made cakes, tarts and other seductively naughty treats.
When I visited on a week night, the welcoming glow of Kettner’s entrance hall was quite delicious, and the hubbub of friendly chatter set the scene for a performance-themed evening.
Following a relaxed drink in the cosy champagne bar – which has one of the most extensive champagne lists I’ve ever seem, as well as a shiny brass bar and bookable nooks – we were politely ushered to our table in the main brassiere. I sat in the corner of the room in a high-backed wicker chair, complete with a peculiar but quirky ape-like character, which hung over me. I later found out this was Auguste the Big Handed Ape, Kettner’s mascot, of course! I should have known. As I faced out towards the restaurant, I wondered what more surprises were in store.
Known for its vibrant history of extravagant parties and soirees, the reformed Kettner’s successfully lived up to its bold reputation. Themed evenings, such as ‘Sing for your Supper’ themed evening that took place during our visit, makes the restaurant come alive with the colourful theatrical characters of London’s Theatre District and is reminiscent of a 1940s glamour and drama.
Although regular diners were welcomed to sample the restaurant’s culinary delights, artists of all sorts were invited to take a seat, eat, and then sing, dance, recite or simply mesmerise others with their chosen short performance.
Gathered around the middle marble bar, a group of young men and women, all dressed in period costume – complete with wigs, white make-up and red lips – began to flounce around, dancing a little, chatting a little, and engaging those who weren’t shy in conversation.
Then two ladies in 1940s’ clothing stood up from their table and began reading old diary excerpts. In the piano bar, the entertainment was a lot more musically themed, with a constant flow of performers taking centre stage to rapturous applause. It was quite a fascinating site to behold.
The food at Kettner’s is simple, fresh French cuisine – you’ll find favourites on there such as mussels, crisp duck confit and beef bourguignon. It’s all very good value with main courses starting at just over £10. But if it’s Paris you’re after, then don’t expect any less entertainment than Moulin Rouge. The delicious food thrown in with good measure, you’ll find it hard to go wrong in here.
Words Emma Zücker
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BRITISH WITH A THOROUGHLY MODERN TWIST
OVERLOOKING MANCHESTER’S CITY CENTRE AS THE RAIN POURS DOWN, THERE’S A CERTAIN AMOUNT OF PLEASURE INVOLVED IN BEING WARMLY TUCKED UP HERE. SKYHIGH, I CAN SEE FOR MILES AS PEOPLE SKIP OVER THE PUDDLES DESPERATE TO FIGHT THEIR WAY HOME FOR THE WEEKEND, BUT THE BEST WAY TO SPEND A FRIDAY NIGHT IS HERE: SEDUCTIVELY TOASTY, SUITABLY COMFORTED, WITH A LARGE GLASS OF WINE AND RICH, HONEST BRITISH FOOD. HERE, AT MANCHESTER’S THE MODERN RESTAURANT, THEY KNOW HOW TO DO FRIDAY NIGHTS BEST.
Scrambling in from the horrible wet weather, I didn’t much look like I was ready for a posh night out. Umbrella inside out, hair straggly and wet, high heels soggy, all I wanted was a towel and a cup of cocoa. Situated in the iconic Urbis building, I had preconceptions that this was going to be the Sex And The City venue of Manchester, with unpronounceable cocktails and the trendiest PR-reps this side of the Pennines. But after schwooping in the lift to the top floor, I discovered that The Modern’s focus was more on style and pleasure than the over-crowded, snobby Cristal laden bars you could find anywhere. They might not have had cocoa, but after stepping out into the dark, intimate bar, I was most certainly ready for that cocktail.
The contemporary stylish bar oozed class: dark wood tables, giant lampshades, electric candles, floor to ceiling windows all echoed a chic, minimalist feel. And yet it felt distinctly comfortable. Tables were spaced out and little booths lined its edges offering exquisite panoramic views of the city. A rare perspective, in one sweep you can see the Wheel all lit up, the colourful Printworks and late-night shoppers crawling through the Arndale.
Here in the serene quiet atmosphere of the spacious Urbis building, staring at the cocktail book, I couldn’t help but feel a guilty satisfaction, shaking the last drips of water from my hair, that we managed to escape the crowded storm outside.
The professionally made cocktails seemed effortlessly concocted, laced with a touch of class. The formal waiting service was charming and the drinks, deliciously subtle. The Jayne Mansfield (£9) strawberry, champagne and rum cocktail was a sweet, fresh and authentically fruity, aperitif to the rich food menu, whilst the New York Flip of whisky, port, egg, cream and sugar made a bold, strong statement to begin the evening.
Though the restaurant wasn’t bursting with character, it had an ambiance of peace and comfort that can’t often be found in a top-class restaurant on a Friday night. Rows of private tables and the calming mauve, grey and beige walls created an earthly feel, leaving the diners serenely chilled. The kitchen was kept hidden, opposing the trend of open-plan kitchens that has taken over modern-day restaurants, contributing to the welcomed peace.
Sipping from our giant glasses as we waited patiently for our traditional Lancastrian meals, it was a pleasant experience to enjoy each other’s company without shouting over loud chatter or having to share your conversation with your neighbouring diners, so close they might as well be sitting with you. The Modern certainly paid attention to its atmosphere and it, for one, works stylishly well.
Let’s not dismiss the food though. Recently awarded Restaurant of the Year 2009 at Manchester’s Food and Drink Festival, The Modern is known for its classic British meals created with locally quality sourced ingredients. And that’s exactly what we got.
Ingredients combined together to bring out each flavour, texture and taste. The seasonal menu means that the choices remain fresh and the meals suitably craved for. The warm duck salad with orange and croutons (£7.50) to start, is the perfect example. The salty duck cuts through the sharp oranges and is complimented by its rich berry sauce, honing in on the fresh ingredients of the season. The wild and rabbit terrine (£5.50) offered a unique alternative as a starter, that you don’t normally find gracing British menus.
The Roasted Yorkshire Venison (£18.50) was my personal favourite. The juicy succulent meat was presented on creamy potatoes, braised red cabbage and faggot, soaked in a rich blood red juniper sauce. The venison oozed just enough flavour to melt against the sweet berry sauce and pickled cabbage.
If you’re a meatie, then the Cheshire Rib Eye Steak (£22.50) should definitely be sampled. Unlike usual steaks that can often come chewy and unsatisfying, this chunky portion melted instantly in the mouth. Served medium rare, the thick steak was as succulent and juicy as meat can come. Its beef dripping chips offered just enough salty crunch and soft creamy middle to prove their home-made beginnings. Sharpness fell effortlessly against the untouched, delicious flavours of the beef, making this far more than your normal Steak and Chips.
Entirely contented with our rich, homely meals, we shouldn’t have had room for puddings, but seeing the desert menu, we suddenly did. Before we knew it, we were dipping into Dark Chocolate and Malt Whisky Tart (£5) and Apple and Blackberry Crumble (£5). Elegantly presented, the creamy deep dark chocolate tasted pure and luxuriously rich. The Cox, Pippin and Bramley apple and blackberry crumble was a fine example of the quality, unbeatable ingredients. Sweet chunky apples offered both texture and taste, a far cry from the sugary slop you might find in other restaurants.
With tummies full and taste buds pleased, The Modern certainly got our seal of approval. Its matchless city views and chilled-out ambiance are the perfect combination for a restaurant with elegant style, and that’s before the food comes out.
A narrow corridor of tables promises couples a private, cosy evening, but if you’re planning a party, it might not be lively enough for your liking. Shimmering candles, neutral colours and wine decanters clearly proves The Modern to be the place to eat if you’re on a date.
It doesn’t scream colour and it’s not elaborately detailed but then its focus is clearly on its food. And on this subject, there is no detail left untouched. Stylish and delicious as British recipes should be, The Modern well-deserved its award, celebrating our food, our tastes and our heritage.
Watching the rain slowly drip down the window panes circled around us, you can see all that our region has to offer. Except of course, one of the best.
Words Natasha Al-Atassi
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MANCHESTER FOOD AND DRINK FESTIVAL 2009
Watch Manchester’s streets come alive this October as the city celebrates its fine food and delicious drinks during this year’s much-acclaimed Food and Drink Festival.
The weather may have taken on an unexpected chill but that won’t stop AGENT2’s readers come out in full force to taste exciting cuisines from the region’s best chefs. In the week long event, the festival takes place in various venues around the city centre allowing everyone to sample some of the country’s best food, made and produced in the Northwest.
MFDF’s Executive Director, Phil Jones said: “This year’s festival aims to highlight the best of Manchester, focusing more than ever on the great dining and drinking businesses we have here in Greater Manchester… [and] show the rest of the nation how much they have to offer.”
This gastronomic extravaganza, from October 1-12, has become one of the UK’s flagship food events, enticing foodies, experts and hungry passersby from all over the country. Last year, over 250,000 people nibbled their way through the 11-day festival, and this year expects to top that with new events and the return of popular classic fêtes.
Some of this year’s line-up includes the Fine Food Market, Oktoberfest, and the Whisky and Local Wine Festivals.
The carnival kicked off with the temporary establishment of the Fine Food Village in St. Anne’s Square, last Thursday October 1. Here the best chefs and producers from around the region congregate to show their masterpieces and take part in the Fine Food Market. Visitors can also enjoy the vibrant atmosphere by popping over at lunchtime and sampling some of Manchester’s highest quality food and drink.
Throughout the week, the lively festival will keep burning with daily chef demonstrations at the Festival’s Chef Demonstration Theatre. Learn the latest techniques, pick up some unique culinary ideas and choose from the finest ingredients at the market, to recreate these succulent dishes at home.
Each weekday evening a series of dining events will take part in the city’s fanciest restaurants. The Dinner in the City Series in Association with Forever Manchester Festival sees chefs and MFDF create unique specific menus for each restaurant which will give the diner a scrumptious, if not surprising, evening.
The event that expects to see Manchester’s biggest turnout is the Albert Square’s Festival Finale Pavilion, from Friday October 9 – Sunday October 11. Thousands are anticipated to turn up at the outdoor celebration to witness a number of events take place in Manchester’s notorious square. Featuring Lancashire’s quality manufacturers and food brands, you can choose from a selection of market produce, hot snacks, restaurant samples, Germany’s legendary Oktoberfest to the extremely popular Real Ale Festival.
Oktoberfest, a traditional German festival, is an extravaganza of fabulous food, traditional beer and live brass brand entertainment. If you haven’t brought your lederhosen then why not try some delicious German sausages and wash them down with Paulaner? Clap traditional Stein ale glasses together and join in on the charismatic Bavarian song and dance.
Director of MFDF, Siobhan Hanley is looking forward to the four-day event, adding: “We think Bavarian beer will go down very well, providing a unique option for visitors to the pavilion, particularly as this will be the only Oktoberfest happening in Manchester.”
Official sponsors, Lufthansa are also offering two lucky festival-goers the chance to win flights to Germany, the homeland of an authentic Oktoberfest’s festival. Enter via the website or at the pavilion itself.
Last year, MFDF’s first Real Ale Festival blew visitors away. The unprecedented success of this bona fide British gala has led to the return of this fair. From October 9-11, around 30 local breweries and micro-breweries will take their place in the Taste Tent in Albert Square, with their best autumn beers for you to sample and sup. Guests have to buy a minimum of £5 beer tokens to enter the marquee.
Brewers will be vying for two awards for their smooth tipples: The People’s Pint, voted by you, Manchester’s ale devotees and The Manchester Ale of the Year, chosen by expert judges. Winners will be announced at the MFDF Gala Dinner and Awards ceremony on Monday October 12, the last event in this year’s MFDF calender. Fifteen awards in total will be given to the region’s best restaurants, producers and bars, chosen by both professionals and the public. Presented by the Hairy Bikers, this prestigious event will round the festival off in style with banquets and guaranteed delicious, succulent food. The public can buy tickets for £92 from www.mfdfgaladinnerandawards.eventbrite.com.
With a catalogue of appetising activities and events too long to list here, it’s really best if you check it out for yourself. Whether you’re passing by on your way back from work or you find yourself supping real ale on the weekend, MFDF is a sure way to enjoy yourself with quality food, excellent company and superb drinks.
Don’t let the October wind put you off; warm your cockles with Bavarian beer and wander through its maze of stalls, sampling some exquisite hot freshly cooked snacks. The MFDF is not only an opportunity to bask in the exceptionally high standard of our region’s food and cooking but, it’s also a fabulous way to spend the weekend.
Just remember to bring your coat.
Visit www.foodanddrinkfestival.com for more information, to vote or enter competitions, and the full schedule of events.
Words Natasha Al-Atassi
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FRAE – COOL AS ICE
‘Froyo’ must be the word of the summer. Everyone’s talking about it; everyone’s trying it; everyone’s having it. If you’re not, then you’re definitely missing out. As the curtains are drawn on this year’s rather miserable summer, the season’s best trend can still be found throughout September’s drizzly days and the coming wintry months. We might not need frozen yoghurt to quench our thirst or cool us in sizzling heat, but for whatever reason, froyo is a craze we certainly do need.
New frozen yoghurt company, Frae has opened a new store in London’s trendy Angel Camden Passageway jumping on the bandwagon of the nation’s obsession with healthy but yummy treats. The yoghurt is every nutritionist’s dream. One-hundred percent fat free, Frae’s froyo is made entirely from natural products fresh from the farm. This probiotic yoghurt not only hosts active cultures but is low in calories too, making this the perfect guilt-free splurge.
Available in two flavours, Original and Green Tea, you can also top up your delicious creamy yoghurt with a selection of 18 toppings. Choose from fresh mango or pomegranate, or granola and goji berries for the extreme health enthusiast. For those who like a bit of a treat, a crunchy topping of Oreo cookies, Kit Kat or gooey chocolate brownies might be up your street.
Frae’s froyos have something for everyone; Keira Knightly and Sadie Frost being among its most popular customers. As its fan base grows, it’s not hard to see why. Not only does it greet passersby with velvety healthy delights, but its New York style laid-back design makes for a perfect summer’s day retreat.
The light and airy décor together with bare brick walls mimics a NYC open-loft. Its breakfast bar and cushioned bench offer a fresh and subtle take on ‘fast-food joints’ without the garish colours and greasy food, whilst its lime green stalls add vivacity to ordinary mundane ‘health food stores’. Ideal for a refreshing alternative to ice-cream on a balmy afternoon, its carefree ambiance and comfortable decor is also inviting to friends after a day’s shopping on the Camden Passage, an instant healthy snack ‘to-go’ or even, the perfect haven to escape this summer’s turbulent storms.
To top it off, Frae’s spoonful desert comes in eco-friendly packaging; spoons are made from potato and smoothie cups from corn, as well as bio-degrable coffee cups. Indeed, not only is Frae healthy it is also environmentally aware which will lighten anyone’s conscience when handing over the cash.
Frae also offers organic smoothies and fat-free coffees including their own ‘fraeppuchino’, offering its unique flavours to everyone whilst seemingly doing the impossible: making healthy snacks as delicious as our biggest sins.
Open from 11am till midnight everyday, Frae knows what the people of London want and it knows what we need. The summer may have let us down, but whatever the season, a froyo will be sure to lift our spirits day-in-day-out…without adding any inches to our waist.
Words Natasha Al-Atassi
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ROOM WITH A REVIEW
There is only one word that springs to mind on entering the Victorian stone building. Glamour. Old school glamour. Set in the Venetian Gothic old Reform Club on one of Manchester’s most affluent shopping strips, I knew this would be a time-travelling treat but what a treat it was. Let’s just say, if the food was going to be as good as our first impressions then we were in for a very special night indeed.
Room is a restaurant like no other. Opened in 2005, it is set in a 19th Century Liberal Party Reform Club and simply oozes historical and architectural charm through its carved wood ceilings, giant marble fireplaces and unbelievably tall windows. Transcending the rich red spiral staircase is like taking a step back in history, met at the top with a seven foot bronze statue of former Prime Minister William Gladstone. I suddenly wished I had put my glad rags on to match the glamour of this special dining experience. Vaulted ornate ceilings and Timerous Beasties statement print wallpaper against deep rich coloured walls radiated the drama you would expect from this gothic structure.
So theatrical is Room’s period features and Victorian design that it is strangely and effortlessly, en vogue.
Indeed, the clear attempts at making this centurion building contemporary with retro motifs and modern fixtures makes this bistro an archetype for vintage chic. The three gigantic lipstick-red lamp shades that must measure my height in diameter hanging boldly in the dining room, the centrepiece bar with Tom Cruise-esque cocktail staff whisking up exotic drinks for up to 70 guests, and the many club lights delicately draped from the ornate ceiling all made these pieces of history come alive in this paradoxical environment, relishing in fairytale glamour.
Black square dining tables are placed beside the twenty / thirty foot long narrow windows in orderly lines whilst in the bar, leather poofs and bar stools are scattered around giving an ambiance of frivolous pleasure and relaxed, yet sophisticated, jamborees, of which we saw many.
Room is refreshingly unpretentious, despite its refined design and upmarket location, situated on Manchester’s affluent King Street, next to the pricey Agent Provocateur and opposite designer store, Vivienne Westwood. It suits its young professional clientele tastefully, without the slightest hint of snobbery and though its menu may be pricey for a regular night off, for a classy do, it demands just the right amount of cash to splash. Everyone was here to have a good time with their partner or with their friends; albeit an urbane and chic one. And urbane and chic, Room most definitely pulled off.
Still, it’s not the decoration we came to enjoy: it was the food. Hard as it is to believe with its rich, exuberant and plush decor, it is the food which is Room’s pièce de resistance. The philosophy behind Room’s cuisine is simple yet effective: reinventing traditional British dishes into sparkling new Michelin-esque pieces of creative magnificence. It isn’t an easy feat but one that Room accomplishes brilliantly. Taking old (and often, mundane) cuisines such as ‘Lancashire Hot Pot’ and transforming the haggard dishes into plates of artistic and sensory pleasure, something quite unlike the original concept.
We were warmly greeted by the very helpful and attentive staff, performing serving etiquette you only find at The Ritz; pouring wine as only wine should be poured, with style, grace and an inch of anticipation. The wine list was meticulously crafted – well chosen tipples to match the traditional dishes flawlessly. Prices start from £25 a bottle but there’s always a choice to purchase a ‘cheeky’ wine for as much as £100, or if you’re really pushing the boat out there’s always Louis Roederer Cristal for £230.
Picking from the exciting menu wasn’t easy as dishes were accompanied by completely contrasting descriptions: ‘Paté on Toast’ became ‘Parfait, Mango, Gingerbread’ and Niçoise Salad, ‘Rare Tuna, Japanese Radish, Quail Egg’. It was quite clear from the get-go that this was no pub-grub but rather cuisines of the highest quality and culinary genius.
Their take on old meals compliments the long-standing English history of the building. With a retro touch, both the decor and the food make a marvel out of their kitsch origins, making this restaurant anything but ordinary.
Starting with ‘Carpaccio’ (Seared Lamb, Feta Cheese, Pine Nuts; £6.50) I was pleasantly surprised. Adorned on a giant white plate were three small pieces of rare lamb chunks and a feta cheese salad. Though the pieces were rather miniscule á la Michelin, they were just right as part of a three-course meal. Still, the meat was beautiful succulent, contrasting perfectly against the salty fried feta and sharp parmesan shavings. My boyfriend’s Pea Soup (Sweet shallots, Mint, Ricotta; £4.50) was deliciously sweet and delectably creamy complimented by the caramelised shallots.
My main, ‘Surf & Turf’ (£17.50) was an innovative take on the usual scampi and steak recipe. The ‘hand dived scallops and crisp pork belly’ was an exciting combination of tender, melt-in-the-mouth meat and slippery smooth scallops. This unique interpretation of Surf & Turf worked wonders as the salty sharp scallops and crackling bacon pork made a surprisingly excellent marriage of flavours. My boyfriend’s ‘8oz Sirloin Steak with Fries and Peppercorn Sauce’ was dutifully juicy and tender, the quality of Room’s aged local meat shining through.
Dining at Room is most exciting when ordering dessert and this is not an experience to skip. The puddings that ‘mum used to make’ were completely revamped, bringing them freshly into the 21st Century. The difference between name and product was so distinct that choosing your dish is like playing Russian roulette; you never know what you’re going to get.
Choosing ‘Peanut Butter and Jam Sandwich’ (£5.50) for example, is nothing like the soggy white bread sandwich we remember eating as children. Instead, delicious moist bread and butter pudding is met with sharp raspberry sorbet that bursts with flavour. Full rich velvety cream panna cotta melts seductively in your mouth. A large peanut brittle is positioned delicately on top of the artistic arrangement of puddings adding crunchy texture to this creamy dessert, perfectly rounding off this ‘sandwich’. It exuded just the right balance between a warm winter pud and fresh summer fruits, the sharp sorbet cutting through the buttery moist dessert.
After being warned that the ‘Mango Lassi’ (Lemon and passion fruit tart; £5.50) wasn’t up to its usual standard due to a faulty oven, we were still blown away with the soft tart emboldened by the robust tangy zest of lemon.
Room’s thrilling and tantalising renovation of cuisines works successfully by confusing the palate so that it soaks in each aroma and flavour as though it had never experienced it before; reinvigorating the essence of these traditional flavours to create a virginal experience of tastes.
Every detail at Room has been carefully crafted to create vintage coolness. Though the food really serves its style delicately on a plate, it is also the overall ambiance that establishes its individuality. The extensive bar offering exclusive champagne cocktails, the mahogany rows of diners and the DJ spinning up-tempo jazz / soul tracks all befit its trendy clientele.
Room manages to combine antiquity with tasteful contemporary design, offering guests an exhilarating rush of dining innovation, amalgamating retro chic with Victorian class, etiquette and, evidently, ambition.
The overall ambiance of excellent service, exquisite food and legendary quarters made for a really special night; a good choice for a cocktail evening with work mates, or perfect for the complete wining and dining extravaganza .
That is, if you enjoy feeling spoiled as part of Manchester’s young, trendy and of course, glamorous, elite.
81 King Street, Manchester
Words Natasha Al-Atassi
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