VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT: ZIAD GHANEM

TO ME LONDON FASHION WEEK IS ALL ABOUT SHOWING OFF AND BRINGING NEW IDEAS TO THE TABLE, EVEN IF THEY ARE NOT INSTANTLY WEARABLE. ZIAD GHANEM WAS A DESIGNER THAT I HAD TO SEE, AND WITH BOY GEORGE IN THE AUDIENCE YOU KNEW IT WAS GOING TO BE A STIMULATING SHOW.

Why the Freemasons Hall was used instead of the BFC Catwalk Show Space I cannot be sure. More space would of allowed this eccentric designer to show off even more of his pierced, tattooed and plus sized models.

Everyone in the audience was in good spirits even though it started an hour late, making it roughly 9pm by the time it began. It was intimate and friendly as people were getting ready for the last night of after show parties.

The show started with a winged gothic angel, with a black mouth like the joker from batman. Her large emerald green feathered fans swooped as she sashayed down the catwalk at 7ft tall on a wheeled contraption. The crowd applauded at not only quite an entrance, but the beauty of the black couture gown on display.

White make up with red stained tears and black smiles fitted with the Personal Jesus soundtrack and married couple who wouldn’t look out of place in a Tim Burton film. Full bosomed women and cross dressing men set foot on the catwalk.

A beautiful floor length black and brown dress with a white eagle printed on the front was the most wearable piece of the show. But this show wasn’t always about being practical.

Pretty veiled dresses in light greys, whites and lilacs with veils slipped over the models faces would be perfect for the more elaborate wedding. Every inch was luxury and excess. Embroidered bodices and Asian printed capes, large feathered headwear and lace gowns filled the small venue. Every piece was assembled and fitted perfectly on a number of shapely models. It was enough to make the mouth water in excitement for the collection.

Ziad Ghanem AW11 edit from VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Words Jennifer Butler  Images Christopher Day

 

FALL HEAD OVER FEET FOR GREEN SHOES

STARTING A GREEN FOOTWEAR BUSINESS IN FRANCE DURING ONE OF THE WORST RECESSIONS IN HISTORY MIGHT SEEM LIKE A BAD IDEA. STUDENTS FREDERIC MUGNIER AND NICOLAS ROHR HOWEVER TURNED THEIR BUSINESS PLAN INTO A SUCCESS STORY THANKS TO THE QUALITY OF THEIR PRODUCTS AND THEIR ECO ENGAGEMENT.

For all you green fingered individuals out there, it is now time to get green footed. Faguo has brought out a new pair of pumps that are eco friendly and perfect for that preppy tennis look.

The new, limited edition shoe, called Chevron, is part of the FIR collection encapsulating the vintage style of a warm day in Monte Carlo.

They are easily recognisable by the cute coconut button sewn on each shoe, which symbolises the brands commitment to the environment and adds a bit of hippy chic to the shoe.

Eco shoes are a huge trend at the moment with ethical fashion more impressed on people’s minds. The brand concept is simple: for each pair of sneakers sold, Faguo plants a tree. The goal is to balance the CO² the company emits.

Faguo is a French brand created by two students, Frédéric Mugnier and Nicolas Rohr, nearly two years ago, when the two friends went to China for six months to study. The word “Faguo” means “France” in Chinese, more precisely, “Country of Laws and Manners”. Regarding laws, the brand has only one: protecting the environment.

Since the beginning, the founders have been pioneering new ways of judging their carbon footprint and of protecting the environment. They decided to calculate the company carbon rate created by the production of shoes.

The storage and shipment of the shoes is taken care by ESAT, a work integration centre in the Parisian suburb. This centre gives disabled people the opportunity of a paid activity, as well as an access to a social and professional life.

The original collection of Faguo is the OAK line, made from cotton and rubber in 9 colours. This collection enabled Faguo to be recognised as a Young Talent during the trade show Who’s Next 2010. In May 2010 the two founders won the MoovJee Prize, a French award rewarding the best companies started by students.

Words Jennifer Butler

OZWALD BOATENG: FASHION IS TEMPORARY, TAILORING IS PERMANENT

OZWALD BOATENG, THE SAVILE ROW HIGH PROFILE TAILOR, WAS BORN IN LONDON IN 1968 TO GHANAIAN PARENTS. HE WAS INSPIRED BY THE IMMACULATE SUITS HIS FATHER WORE AND RECEIVED HIS FIRST SUIT AT THE AGE OF FIVE – A DOUBLE-BREASTED IN PURPLE MOHAIR – AND HAS NOT LOOKED BACK SINCE. HE STARTED MAKING WAVES IN MENSWEAR IN THE EARLY NINETIES, GOING ON TO STAGE HIS FIRST CATWALK PRESENTATION IN PARIS IN 1994.

He is famous for bringing a new showmanship back to tailoring by using a vivid palette of colour and made it more acceptable for it to be worn in combination with a sharply cut suit. The Savile Row was, before the likes of Boateng, an institution of very traditional tailoring in very classic grey whites. But Boateng took the bright hues identified with his African heritage and introduced the bold colours that have come to be his signature.

Having praised the fact that there is now a dedicated menswear a London Fashion Week, Boateng officially brought the week to an end with a show at the Odeon in Leicester Square featuring 100 models on the catwalk who then walked en masse to Savile Row. The epic scale of this show was to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Ozwald Boateng label which featured his latest collections for both the S/S 11 and A/W 11 seasons.

Monochrome short suits with socks pulled up, followed by twenty or more ensembles which were also based on this palette, in wool with silk blends, mohair mixes, lightweight cashmere, mercerized wool and cotton, the first few looks had the audience transfixed.

Most prominent were set-in and high-notch lapels and within his extensive shirting range is the distinctive chisel tip collar. Not only did Boateng exhibit black tie looks, he also sent an explosion of colours – apple greens, emerald, turquoise, periwinkle, yellows – onto his catwalk.

Bold linings in twill and tweed texture were sported and unique detailing such as quilting panelling, were also offered. An expansion of product lines saw pieces such as luggage, footwear, knitwear, jersey shirts, socks, gloves, scarves and belts which added that extra something to the looks.

Ozwald Boateng has also made many successful forays into the world of film. The 2009 documentary for BBC Four ‘Why Style Matters’ unpicks and re-stitches his own personal relationship with style. But, most significantly is Boateng’s recent launch of his autobiographical film entitled A Man’s Story, charting his rise (albeit with the occasional fall) over the past 12 years.

Boateng locates places in his life-long journey through fashion where he added a new thought or influence to his look. He talks about style with family, friends, colleagues and journalists and travels to Milan to meet one of his heroes, the master of modern menswear, Giorgio Armani.

The film also touches upon how growing up in a changing Britain had a huge impact on the man who broke the race barrier of British tailoring. Little did the exquisitely stylish 23 year old, who opened a store on Portobello Road know that he would go on to become such a part of the fabric of British society; in 2006 he was awarded an OBE for services to the clothing industry.

‘A Man’s Story’ will be released in the UK in 2011

Words Almaz Ohene  Images Stephan Gregoire

ETHICAL FASHION SHOW: THE SACRED CHILDHOODS FOUNDATION

THE SACRED CHILDHOODS FOUNDATION HOSTED AN ETHICAL FASHION SHOW, ON THE 3^RD OF NOVEMBER, TO RAISE FUNDS FOR VULNERABLE AND UNPRIVILEGED CHILDREN IN INDONESIA, SOUTH EAST ASIA.

The event took place at Vanilla restaurant, a swanky and glamorous venue in central London.

Ethical fashion is just 1% of the fashion industry so this show aims to promote ethical fashion designers presenting sustainable, fairly-traded outfits.

Besides, some of the catwalk models have a disability, and often face discrimination by the mainstream fashion industry. These models work for the agency, Models of Diversity, which points out that there are many ideals of beauty, not just the skinny-tall concept portrayed by the media and fashion industries.

Natalie Perry, founder and director of The Sacred Childhoods Foundation, gave an emotive speech explaining what her foundation does, her next projects and how the funds they receive are spent. The foundation’s aim isn’t just to generate funds but to make people aware of how precarious life is in Indonesia for children and to promote a sense of responsibility.

After, several UK and international ethical fashion designers showcased their latest collections:

• Astrid Barney: her main pieces were a pink mini dress made of recycled ring pulls, from discarded soda cans, joint together with traditional crochet techniques, and a limited edition bag, called “Ballet”, made from 714 ring pulls. All her designs have been handmade in Brazil, where Astrid is from. www.da-lata.com
  

  Astrid Barney

• Natasha Rufus Isaac: part of her designs has been produced by women caught up in sex trafficking. The main fabrics Natasha uses are crepe de chine silk, cotton and satin silks.  www.beulahlondon.com

• Bhavna: this Indian designer specializes in luxurious evening dresses, scarves and kaftans. Her outfits are made by a skilled workforce earning a fair wage in India and America. A one-shoulder black and white short dress was the highlight of her collection.  www.bhavna.com

• Charlie Chambers: all his garments are made from reclaimed wedding dresses, vintage clothes and organic textiles, and decorated with free embroidery appliqué and natural dye batik. A striking patchwork mini dress and a floral bustled gown with hand knitted pullover dazzled the audience. www.charlie-chambers.co.uk

• Rosie Martin: DIY couture sells books that teach people how to create their own clothes, encouraging them to embrace slow fashion. Her colourful capes are the result of a collaboration with Carolina Gomez-Aubert. www.diy-couture.com

• Rosie Watt: this British designer works in Palestine/Israel with local women to create her fashion collections. Her beautiful nightwear range, “Bezalel”, was modelled by this year’s Mister UK, Roger Snipes, and 62 year-old model, Lynne Bennett from Models of Diversity.

• Fee Uhssi Design: her dresses inspired by the African tradition added a touch of colour to the catwalk. The fabrics used are sourced through fair trading, eco-friendly ethically working producers and suppliers. All of her garments are manufactured in the UK by Heba Women Project. www.feeuhssi.com
  

  Lilia Yip

• Lilia Yip: she uses fabrics such as silk Jersey and bamboo silk, a sustainable resource, and utilizes digital printing to minimize waste. Her print dress is the result of a collaboration with the artist Mona Choo. www.liliayip.com

• Tina Lobondi: her dresses are hand-printed, created with locally sourced fabrics in Mauritania, West Africa, and produced by local women. Her collection, “Rani”, is the result of a collaboration with Carolina Gomez-Aubert, creator of the label Lunamano, which is expanding to El Salvador (Carolina’s homeland), where she is establishing a production workshop to provide fair trade employment to her employees. www.tinalobondi.com , www.lunamano.com

• Serefina: totally against fast fashion, Serefina tailors each piece to the client for durability and longetivity. Her pieces are adaptable, which means they are usually reversible or sleeves can be added or removed. Her elegant dresses and corsets are made with materials considered ‘waste’. www.serefina.co.uk

• Sapmi Couture: designer Camilla Tell has created a feminine and stylish collection inspired by Hollywood’s glamour. Her dresses are influenced by the Samis culture. The brand’s signature dress is the Kolt, which is the Sami traditional custom. Her outfits are always decorated with ribbons, creating a historical feeling, which is distinctive for Sapmi Couture. All of her suppliers and manufacturers support ethical business practices. www.sapmicouture.com

All the outfits shown were for sale on the night via silent auction, with all proceeds going to the Sacred Childhoods Foundation.

The event was sponsored by Models of Diversity, SuckUK, KaBloom, Vanilla restaurant, Avanta and Norman hangers.

www.sacredchildhoods.org

Words Veronica Carpio Martin

LEEDS LOVES SHOPPING

DURING 10 DAYS, FROM 14^TH TO 24^TH OF OCTOBER, LEEDS LOVES SHOPPING FESTIVAL RETURNS FOR ITS FIFTH ANNUAL SHOWCASE OF FASHION HIGH STREET, INDEPENDENT RETAILERS, VINTAGE AND CUTTING-EDGE DESIGNS.

The festival kicked off on Thursday 14^th with the Victoria Quarter 20^th Birthday Shopping Affair, where brands such as Harvey Nichols, Reiss, Paul Smith, Vivienne Westwood, Mulberry, Ted Baker, Karen Millen, Agent Provocateur, amongst others, offered exclusive treats and discounts, champagne and canapés to celebrate the latest fashion. All the shops were open until late and the atmosphere was buzzing with live bands, dancers and aerial acrobats. A smaller version of London’s Fashion Night Out but equally successful and entertaining.

On Friday 15^th, I went to see the Marks in Time Exhibition at Leeds University which celebrated the 125 year anniversary of the loved and acclaimed retailer Marks & Spencer. The exhibition takes you into a historic journey from the company’s beginning as a market stall to today’s success as one of the most iconic retailers in UK and worldwide.

The influence that M&S has had in British culture through the years can been seen in rare documents, photographs and the display of iconic products such as the melting middle chocolate pudding (the advert’s seductive voice made the sales increase by 3000%) and the bras. Peculiar quotes trough the walls such as, “Nearly half of the UK female population wears M&S knickers” and comments from customers and staff members give an interesting insight of this successful brand.

Next, I attended the SHE DRESS-O-S at the Style House on Briggate presented by JoJo from Galaxy Radio. Style Director Lizanne Harris and Deputy Fashion Editor Pamela Harris from SHE magazine gave exclusive tips on how to wear this season latest trends.

The catwalk showed the following newest looks:

• Romantic look: a gold sequel dress from New Look and an statement coat with flower details for an instantly glamorous look.

For a harder version of the romantic trend, a nude embellished top from Monsoon gives an edge to the romantic look.

• Colour-bold trend: mix up colours to create a fun and confident look.
• Military look: leather trousers and military jacket from House of Fraser for a rock-chick military girl.
• 70’s look: camel trousers and sweater from Nicole Farhi for a hippy but glamorous look.
• Minimalism: keep it simple with clean-cut clothes that fit well such as navy trousers from River Island and jacket from Karen Millen.
• Winter coats: fake fur textures, leather and aviator jackets, skin sheep details, capes, military coats and the colours camel and grey are huge on the catwalk and high street this season.

After, I headed to the Leeds in Vancouver fashion exchange at the Style House, a networking event, hosted by Marketing Leeds chief Executive Deborah Green, where up-and-coming Leeds designers James Steward and Lisa Jayne Dann presented several pieces from their Spring/Summer 2011 collections that will be showcased during Vancouver Fashion Week. In a bid to support creative local talent, Leeds Marketing has teamed up with Vancouver to showcase for the first time British designers during its Fashion Week from the 3^rd to 7^th of November.

James Steward’s designs have already been worn by high-profile celebrities such as Kylie Minogue and Victoria Beckham.

Lisa Jayne Dann’s designs are stocked in several independent boutiques in England and her label is very popular amongst celebrities and fashionistas.

Also, local milliner, Beth Hirst, displayed a specially commissioned couture hat to promote Leeds as one of the most fashionable cities in UK.

Leeds in Vancouver will be a great opportunity to show to the world what Leeds designers can offer and also an excellent platform to network with the international media and buyers.

Prosecco and canapés were provided courtesy of Harvey Nichols.

The evening started with Leeds Rocks at Saviles Hall where fire eaters and living statues welcomed all the guests. The drink of choice was the complimentary “Leeds on the rocks”, a bittersweet cocktail made with amaretto, cherry brandy, angostura bitters and lemon. The event was a celebration of Leeds’ culture showcasing the latest talent from fashion, music and arts and although it wasn’t as rocking and spectacular as expected, it was a good attempt to expose and promote the city and its artists.

Leeds Rocks also supported Future Arts, a social organization who helps young people from disadvantaged backgrounds to develop their artistic skills.

On Saturday 16^th, I visited GAP demonstration at Style House where Kate Lawler from Kerrang Radio presented GAP’s Autumn/Winter collection for men, women and children.

In womenswear, the key look was jeggings (a stylish and comfy combination of jeans and leggings), warm knitwear and shoulder pad jackets for a smart evening look.

The menswear follows the GAP’s signature American look with fitted jeans and cashmere sweaters and cardigans. His pieces are trendy but don’t follow a straight-from-the-catwalk style.

In kidswear, GAP gets inspired by Stella McCartney with warm jackets, a zebra print sweater and a red knitted sweater-dress. A very cute and stylish look for the little ones.

Leading luxury British spa and skincare brand Elemis was there also to give advice on the latest beauty products and treatments. I had a neck massage that left me very relaxed but energised too.

GAP store offered 25% discount throughout the day and a complimentary photo session courtesy of Venture.

During my stay, I had the opportunity to try some of Leeds most renowned restaurants such as Casa Mia Millenium, Cosmopolitan restaurant, Harvey Nichols Espresso Bar and Bird restaurant in Alea.

Leeds loves shopping is organised by Marketing Leeds, City Centre management, Leeds City Council with support from Leeds Retail Association and Yorkshire Forward.

Words Veronica Carpio Martin  Images Dan Harley

THE LOWE DOWN: PEARL LOWE INTERVIEW

AS FAR AS SUCCESSFUL COMEBACK STORIES GO, PEARL LOWE’S MUST BE SOMEWHERE NEAR THE TOP OF THE LIST. FEW CELEBRITIES HAVE MANAGED TO BOUNCE BACK FROM CONTROVERSY WITH THE SAME STEELY RESILIENCE AS PEARL, AND FEWER STILL HAVE MANAGED TO TURN THINGS AROUND SO SPECTACULARLY TO ESTABLISH THEMSELVES FIRMLY AS A STYLE ICON AND BUSINESSWOMAN. YET THIS STORY IS ONE WITH A HAPPY ENDING. IN FACT, IT’S NOT EVEN AN ENDING- IT’S MERELY THE BEGINNING OF MANY EXCITING THINGS IN STORE FOR PEARL.

Anyone who shops on the high street will be sure to have seen the Peacocks’ window displays, which currently boast a selection of particularly eye-catching, ethereal dresses. What may not be so obvious, or at least not until closer inspection of the label, is that these creations have been designed by Pearl herself. While fashion designer may be a surprising career move for Pearl, who rose to fame as the frontwoman of indie bands Powder and Lodger during the Britpop explosion of the 90s, it’s not as unexpected as you may think. And unlike many celebrity-high street collaborations, this line has real credibility. But if anyone should know a thing or two about the importance of proving yourself, it’s Pearl.

She has managed to weather storm after storm, including lurid newspaper revelations and unpleasant speculation about her private life, but it’s easy to see how upping sticks from London and moving to Somerset with her husband, Supergrass drummer Danny Goffey,  has made her much happier. “When Danny and I lived in London, we nearly split up,” she admits. “Our relationship would not have survived, had we stayed there. When we left we started rebuilding our life together. Leaving London was the turning point for me. I started to create, which is something I could never do there. There were too many distractions.”

For those familiar with Pearl’s history- and if you’ve ever read a tabloid, chances are you will be- it’s not difficult to work out what kind of ‘distractions’ she is talking about. Most came from the use of narcotics, and their use was rife amongst Pearl’s Primrose Hill social circle back in the 90s. Pearl is remarkably open about her experiences with drugs, and it’s easy to see that the woman whose drug habit once earned her the nickname ‘Dyson’- owing to her ability to hoover up copious amounts of drugs- is well and truly back on track.

“I hate drugs, I think they mess up people’s lives. I just wish they were never invented. The world would be a much more beautiful place without them,” she says. The one consolation has been her friends. Whilst her autobiography tells of acquaintances who were quick to drop her once she turned her back on drugs, her ‘real’ friends have been her rock. “They were, and are, incredibly supportive. It was so easy to walk away from the friends that were still using. I felt as though I had been let out of jail.”

Though there have been a couple of minor relapses along the way, you can’t help but admire Pearl’s determination to come through the other side. The tabloids may have splashed on the story that Pearl was spending up to £250 a night on drugs at the height of her habit, but Pearl cleared her debts ,headed to rehab and has been helping others in the same position ever since, as an ambassador for homeless charity Crisis and as an anti-drugs spokesperson. “When I first got clean, I thought it was my duty to help people through my struggles. Part of me is proud to have done that, but there is a part of me that wishes it wouldn’t be mentioned all the time.” Why? “It isn’t who I am anymore.” So what does she wish that people knew about her, instead? “That I’m a great tennis player!”

If there is one thing that Pearl has had to endure that other drug addicts have not, it is constant public humiliation. Few have been subject to the kind of media scrutiny that she has faced. The birthday party she threw for her son Alfie at Soho House in 2002 resulted in a backlash after Jude Law and Sadie Frost’s daughter was rushed to hospital for allegedly swallowing an Ecstasy tablet found on the floor, and intrusion into her private life reached a peak in 2005 when a tabloid ran a story suggesting that she and Danny had been indulging in wife-swapping. Then came the media furore following the discovery that the father of her daughter Daisy was not her first husband, as she had thought, but Gavin Rossdale, the frontman of the band Bush and husband of Gwen Stefani. A lesser woman may have broken down at such continuous media crucifixions. But not Pearl. Her main concern is for her children and the effects the press reports will have on them: “It’s so annoying that they can read everything now, but Danny and I are open with them, so they know. Alfie, our 13 year old, thinks we’re boring old farts, so I guess it gives us a bit of an edge.”

What has been keeping Pearl in the headlines more recently is the success of her clothing range for budget high-street retailer Peacocks. Her current collection consists of gorgeous, vintage-inspired tea dresses modelled by daughter Daisy, which have become an instant high-street hit. She admits that she’d never heard of Peacocks before she was asked to design for the store. “They called my agent and asked if I was interested. I hadn’t actually heard of them before, but I went to Cardiff and met them, and we all got on really well. It was only supposed to be a one-off collection, but it sold so well, they asked me to design for three more years.” Does she worry about whether people will take her seriously as a designer? “No not at all, it’s what comes naturally to me. I think people can see through the fakes. I love designing clothes and interiors.”

It’s not the first time Pearl has turned designer. Back in 2001 she began her own interiors range, featuring lace cushions and curtains, which was followed by a collection of handmade dresses for exclusive London store Liberty’s. She is also working on a new book on fashion, which will be worlds apart from her autobiography. “It’s a book about vintage fashion. I want it to be a vintage bible so it’ll include lots of different things, but I’ve neglected it a bit recently as I’ve been so busy with designing four collections (for Peacocks).”

A film version of her biography All That Glitters is also in the pipeline, “but it’s being held up by lawyers, I just want it to hurry up and get made.” She also reveals she’s not ruling out a return to music. “Danny is writing a solo album and I’ve sung on a few tracks, so I am being pulled back there.” But, she maintains, fashion is where her heart lies, and she lists Chanel, Anna Sui, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano as her favourite designers.

This passion seems to run in the family. While Pearl admits to having had a strong interest in fashion from the age of four, Daisy is also a highly successful model who is rarely out of the headlines, albeit for all the right reasons. Is Pearl concerned that Daisy will go down the same route she did? “I don’t think Daisy will go where I went as she saw what happened to me. She learnt from my mistakes.” Then there are Daisy’s contemporaries, such as Peaches Geldof, who became embroiled in a drugs scandal earlier in the year. Does she worry about the drugs culture which seems to be so prevalent amongst young people today? “I can’t comment on Peaches as I don’t know her that well, but when I have met her she seems pretty strong, so I am sure she will be alright.”

This seems like an apt time to ask what the most important lessons are that she’s learned over the years. The response is poignant and sincere. “To love yourself. Not in an egotistical way, just in a loving way. I always had such a low opinion of myself, so I never got anywhere. You have to really like who you are to succeed in life.”

Words Kay Weston

MODELS OF DIVERSITY

APPEARING ON GOK WAN’S ‘MISS NAKED BEAUTY’ IN 2008, ANGEL SINCLAIR WAS STRUCK BY THE VARIETY OF BEAUTIFUL WOMEN PARTICIPATING – AND HOW FEW TALLIED WITH THE NARROW IMAGE-RANGE PROJECTED BY THE FASHION INDUSTRY. SHE FOUNDED MODELS OF DIVERSITY TO CAMPAIGN FOR MODELS TO BETTER REFLECT SOCIETY, IN ALL IT’S SHAPES AND SIZES.

What is Models of Diversity (MoD) about?

MoD advocates for models of all colours and ethnicities, as well as plus-sized, disabled, short and mature models. That’s the majority of the fashion-buying public; it’s discriminatory for the industry to ignore their needs.

Agents have the right to choose whatever models they want, but we demand an end to prejudicial practices and outmoded stereotypes. Curvier models are under enormous pressure to lose weight, while models of colour are only trotted out for urban looks, so will try to lighten their complexions with chemicals. It’s wrong.

Where does MoD’s work begin?

We work hard to access young, upcoming, designers whose ideas about models coming in a narrow range of sizes, shapes, ages, colours and abilities are not yet set in stone – we’re priming the pump.

How important is it that glossies reflect your ethos, to signal that it’s ok to use more diverse models and cater for broader body-types?

Having successful, healthy models of diversity in the public eye is crucial. It gets consumers and designers/stylists/booking-agents used to seeing the models, and inspires the general public to feel better about themselves.

What is your biggest obstacle?

Lack of creative thinking. Nuts magazine bluntly told us they only use token Asian and black models, and never plus size models, because that’s what their readers want. It’s a deeply flawed, circular, argument; if they offered a range of cover girls we’re sure most readers would respond positively.

Are you ever skeptical of designers/shows “making statements”, or is any publicity good publicity?

We’re skeptical of token gestures. Jean-Paul Gaultier’s putting Velvet D’Amour or Beth Ditto in his shows was wonderful but he didn’t follow it up with a plus-size line for customers to buy. Designers often respond: “I had one black model in my show,” as if that fixes the problem – it just underscores it!

Your agency, Sinclair Model Management, is attached to the campaign, why should a ‘standard’ agency model turn to you if they’re not a ‘model of diversity’?

We’ve nothing against standard models of course, but we’re specifically designed to meet the needs of those marginalised by the industry and agencies. We have to be the voice for the voiceless.

Headway has been made in the Size Zero debate regarding female models, but is anorexia among males still taboo?

It’s a big problem. They’re just as victimized by the Size Zero trend but their needs aren’t well addressed.

One of our models is bulimic and tried to telling his story to the press. He went from weighing 20 stone to eight but was told his photos weren’t ‘extreme’ enough. It seems, unless they’re anomalous, male anorexics aren’t taken seriously.

What would rank as your ‘top fashion moments’ that made you feel diversity was being accepted that little bit more?

1. Appearing on Gok’s show – his personal support gave me the determination to change things.

2. Protesting the Size Zero trend outside London Fashion Week led to a meeting with the British Fashion Council.

3. Kelly Knox landing the cover of Diva Magazine and a major ad-campaign for V05.

4. When our disabled model Carla Gomes was featured in a Channel 4 show. She now stars in a massive London billboard campaign.

5. July’s ‘Evening of Diversity’ fundraiser that subsidised our disabled modeling workshops.

www.modelsofdiversity.org

Words Alex Jackson

SHOP, EAT, SLEEP!

LONDON, AS ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST FASHIONABLE CAPITALS, OFFERS A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE FOR SHOPAHOLICS, FASHIONISTAS AND ANYONE LOOKING FOR THE LASTEST FASHION ACCESSORY OR BARGAIN.

The famous American quote, “the city that never sleeps”, perfectly defines the busy, Oxford Street, well-known for high-street fashion with lots of trendy stores such as: Topshop, a tourist spot on its own, and the largest branch of the country renown for its straight-from-the-catwalk high-street versions, Primark, Zara, the Spanish retailer boasts high-quality and exclusive designs at high-street prices, River Island, offers a chic British style and interesting collections from graduate fashion designers and also, Mango, GAP, Jane Norman, Dorothy Perkins, Office, New Look.

The area also hosts luxury department stores such as: John Lewis, House of Fraser and Debenhams and Selfridges, the uber chic store has recently opened The Shoe Galleries, with 4,000 shoes on display and 55,000 in stock, this shoe-paradise is the biggest in the world.

For a more exclusive feel, the iconic Carnaby Street offers a unique shopping experience with a large number of mid-range fashion boutiques such as Miss Sixty, Replay, Diesel, Fornarina, to name a few and also the quintessentially British department store, Liberty, very well-known for its trademark prints, high end designer clothes and exclusive cosmetics that are very hard to find anywhere else.

The elegant Regent Street, also boasts numerous flagship stores such as Banana Republic, Ted baker, The Apple Store, Levis, Guess, Ferrari, Karen Millen, the world- famous toy shop, Hamleys, very popular amongst tourists, and traditional British labels such as Burberry and Jaeger.

For pure luxury, swanky Bond Street is home to the world’s most famous retailers. The northern part is called New Bond Street, the most expensive avenue in Europe, where you can find high-end designer stores such as Armani, Dolce&Gabbana, Fendi, Louis Vitton, Prada, Versace, Miu, Miu… The southern part, Old Bond Street, boasts prestigious jewellery shops such as Tiffani & Co, Leviev, Watches of Switzerland, Cartier, De Beers and also sophisticated designer boutiques such as Chanel, Ives Saint Laurent, Gucci, Alexander McQueen, DKNY. Bond Street also hosts Sotheby’s auction house, antique and art stores.

After shopping, I checked into the Radisson Edwardian Bloomsbury Street Hotel, conveniently located near popular London landmarks such as British Museum, Soho, Covent Garden, Oxford Street and Piccadilly Circus.

Following a 25 million pound makeover, this hotel has become a symbol of luxury, comfort and style. From the moment I step in, I am aware of the attention to detail and cutting-edge design. The reception boasts a wall covered by pages from Virginia Wolf’s most famous book, Mrs Dalloway and a striking art installation by Ian and Richard Able.

The bar area has a touch of exclusivity while retaining an intimate atmosphere which makes you feel welcomed and relaxed. The deep gold, crushed velvet sofas, designer curve backed chairs and bronze sculptures create a sophisticated and intimate ambiance.

The restaurant offers a very stylish décor with black leather chairs, black lacquer tables, tall scarlet vases set in alcoves and white orchids. The food menu showcases contemporary European food using the finest ingredients at a reasonable price (starting from £19.50 for two courses).

The refurbishment has added a brand new 7^th floor and the hotel boasts some of the largest bedrooms and bathrooms in London. As I enter my deluxe room, the first thing that catches my eye is the extraordinary view over the British Museum’s famous dome. The king size bed, luxurious bed linen, fine leather headboards, bespoke furniture and Baccharat chandeliers create a luxurious and cozy atmosphere.

All rooms have the latest audio/visual technology with sleek flat screen TVs and complimentary high-speed wireless.

The hotel also features one of the largest conference spaces in central London, the Folio Room, with capacity for 300 people, unique Op-Art silver walls, in-built Blu-Ray equipment and intuitive touch-screen technology.

If you are searching for a hotel with a central location, superb service, excellent food, great comfort and the latest design, look no further.

Radisson Edwardian Hotels are giving The Pay, Save and Stay offer for Christmas, which provides 20% discount from all room nights between 19th December and 9th January inclusive, plus 25% off dining throughout all hotel restaurants.

Radisson Edwardian Bloomsbury Street Hotel,

9-13 Bloomsbury Street, London, WC1B 3QD

020 7636 5601

www.radissonedwardian.com/bloomsburystreet

Words Veronica Carpio Martin

KAHENA: SPATS FOR THE FASHION WARRIOR

FRENCH COMPANY KAHENA IS PUTTING SPATS BACK ON THE FASHION MAP. ITS DESIGNS, MIXING TRADITIONAL CRAFTSMANSHIP WITH DARING FABRICS, ARE LOCALLY PRODUCED IN FRANCE. FOUNDER AND DESIGNER NATALIE DE ANGELIS ATTENDED THE TRADE SHOW PURE LONDON THIS SUMMER TO INTRODUCE HER PRODUCTS TO THE UK MARKET.

Usually associated with 19th century dandies, soldiers and Michael Jackson music videos, spats are making a fashion comeback thanks to the small and artisan French company Kahena.

Founder Natalie de Angelis, a French stylist from Brittany, decided to start a spats-making company after seeing a John Galliano show in the 1990s where models wore flirty dresses and fake fur spats.

“I had never though of wearing spats with skirts, I’d always worn them over trousers. All of a sudden, thousand of creative possibilities opened up.”

Finding the idea was easy. Learning how to make the spats was more difficult. “We found images of spats in old publications but had no ideas what the technical process involved was. Discovering it, mostly by trial and error, took many years.” De Angelis eventually figured it out and launched Kahena seven years ago.

The company is still small, and has only just started to expand outside the French borders. Each item is handmade in Saint-Nazaire, a seaside city in Brittany, by people directly employed by Kahena.

“It was very important for me to only produce in France. It saves time and I am happy to preserve French skills and jobs,” explains De Angelis.

The company name, inspired by a 7^th century legendary Berber warrior queen, represents this militant ethics. De Angelis chose it because of its association with female power, feminism and because spats are a traditional part of military uniforms.

The design and the name might be anchored in history, but the Kahena creations are decisively modern. Gone are the monochromatic models, the white spats with black buttons. Instead, De Angelis favours materials such as the historical French fabrics Toile de Jouy and Jacquard des Flandres, Glen plaid and Tartan. For the more daring models, she uses oil clothes printed with bright grass or navy polka dots. Tulle ribbons and side studs have replaced the original buttoning.

De Angelis didn’t stop there. She also modified and modernised the shape of the spats. They still mould the calf but can be a lot longer, or shorter than the original models. Depending on the desired effect, they can be thigh-high boots or just protect the ankle from spatter.

For autumn/winter 2010, Kahena has created a tribute to Michael Jackson and is introducing a line of black-waxed linen and Japanese suede spats. They are available at their online shop.

www.kahena.net

Words Lucie Goulet

LONDON FASHION WEEK – CLOSING PARTY AND FASHION SHOWCASE

TINA LOBONDI, NATALIYA DILENKO AND CHRISTOPHOROS KOTENTOS LAUNCHED THEIR SPRING/SUMMER 2011 COLLECTIONS  DURING LONDON FASHION WEEK – CLOSING PARTY AND FASHION SHOWCASE.

The evening started with floor shows and live photoshoots of models wearing corsets designed by burlesque corsetiere Velda Lauder and Voller corsets.

Arabian belly dancer Nyx Lenoir opened the catwalk with an exotic and sensual dance, followed by a fire-eating spectacle that shocked the audience.

After the performance, Ukrainian designer Nataliya Dilenko, presented her new 9-piece collection. Diaphanous long-knee dresses in navy blue, pink and red, high-waisted trousers exquisitely tailored and smart black jackets with a vaporous detail at the back were on display.

“I wanted to create something unbelievable, with a lot of movement, something invisible, like a cloud” said Nataliya of her collection aimed at women who want to achieve a very romantic, dreamy and feminine look.

Nataliya fell in love with fashion whilst modelling and studying engineering. “I love dressing up and creating unusual designs so that’s why I decided to become a fashion designer”.

After completing her degree at Central Saint Martins, Nataliya worked alongside Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan in 2006-7 for Paris Fashion Week. She presented her first collection at Budapest, Bahrain and Dubai Fashion Weeks in 2008.

The night continued with a performance from violinist Eloise Prouse, followed by Christoforos Kotentos ‘ 24-piece collection “Lumiere Kaleidoscopique”. The Greek designer dazzled the public with a sexy reinvention of the little black dress, a silver dress with puffed sleeves, a one-shoulder white dress and a vaporous long red dress.

“All the shapes and colours a kaleidoscope creates and the reflection of the light coming from mosaic glasses that I have seen in Morocco, Tunisia and Turkey were the inspiration for my collection,” said Christoforos.

Models in huge platforms showed long and short square shoulder dresses with a futuristic feeling and exquisitely designed to emphasize shape and structure: a collection made for women who want to feel provocative, powerful and sexy. Geometrical prints were seen in some of the dresses while in others shiny light blue, grey, red, black or silver were the predominant colours.

Christoforos shot to fame in 1997, when he designed a dress made of 6 500 Swarovski crystals. Celebrities have been wearing his dresses and he has become a household name in Greece, appearing in Greek Next Top Model as one of the judges.

His collection will also be showcased at Athens Fashion Week.

The last performance of the night was by R&B popstar Haynzy.

Tina Lobondi closed the catwalk with a 10-piece collection inspired by Grace Kelly and the elegance of the 1950s. The collection, which celebrated old glamour, sophistication and femininity, centered around colourful dresses with an extremely low v-shaped neckline.

“My main priority is to create good quality and original designs that women want to wear, designs that make women feel and look good,” commented Tina.

After studying Fashion Design Realisation in Paris and doing internships for several designers, Tina moved to London and created her own label. “It’s very difficult to be original so I try not to look at other people’s collections in order not to be influenced by other designers”.

She showcased her collection for the first time at the Princess Diana Award at Movida last year. Her next projects are a TV show and the charity fashion show “Sacred Childhoods” at Vanilla restaurant.

The evening continued with an after-party where the catwalk became the dance floor and cocktails and champagnes started flowing.

Richard Austin Rees PR & Fashion Management in partnership and association with the Button Club organised the evening, held at the Belgravia mansion “Il Bottaccio”, a very opulent and elegant venue frequently used to host events, press launches and photo shoots.

Words Verónica Carpio Martín

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