PLAYING BARBIE IN TEHRAN
TALA RAASSI, THE WOMAN BEHIND THE MISS UNIVERSE BIKINIS, STARTED OFF HER FASHION CAREER DRESSING UP HER BARBIES IN IRAN.
When she was little, Tala Raassi used to make clothes for her Barbies. But there was always one problem.
“I always felt like they needed more fabric,” recalls Tala of growing up in Iran, where strict Islamic laws mean ‘indecent clothing’ is illegal. Barbies are banned as they’re said to depict women in a bad light, so Tala used to collect them when she travelled abroad.
“I dressed like any teenager would, except we had to completely cover up in public,” she says.
“However, I kept getting in trouble at school for the type of shoes I wore or the backpacks I carried.”
But even under one of the world’s most brutal regimes, Tala and her other friends still oozed sophistication. Sunglasses and scarves from trendy boutiques in the capital Tehran were must-have accessories.
“Girls in Iran are very creative with the little fashion freedom they have,” Tala says.
“I always felt that the streets of Tehran looked like a fashion show.
“Iranian women actually wear so much make-up because their face is one of the only things shown in public.
“They can also be very creative with their chadors (the traditional long black robe covering the body from head to toe), especially the younger women.”
However, the more fashion-conscious Tala became, the more she earned the wrath of her parents.
She went on thinking she would become a lawyer – “There were only certain occupations suitable for a woman” – but one night in 1998 altered her path.
Arriving at a friend’s birthday party wearing the compulsory uniform, a scarf covering her hair, a black coat, and trousers underneath her skirt, once inside she threw her outfit aside, revealing a black t-shirt and miniskirt.
It wasn’t long into the celebrations that the religious police came knocking on the door, informing Tala and her 30 friends that they had broken the law for not being dressed properly. (They had also committed the crimes of listening to music not approved by the government and having a party with members of the opposite sex). It would later turn out that a friend, who had not been invited to join in the festivities, had reported them.
A police chase around the neighbourhood ensued, before the group was handcuffed and taken to the local prison.
After five days of sleeping on the floor in a squalid jail they were taken to the courtroom and sentenced to be lashed.
The women received 40 strikes, while the men were forced to endure 50 each. Tala’s family waited outside the room of the prison during her punishment, which lasted ten minutes.
“I do still think of what happened to us,” is all she will say when broached on the subject today.
“I think about the woman that go through similar things all the time.”
“I am who I am today because of what happened and I am putting it to good use.”
Despite throwing herself into her studies following her persecution, Tala was still struggling emotionally months later. After graduation, she decided a change of scenery would be good, so she went to Dubai to stay with friends.
Although Islamic dress code is not compulsory there, Tala saw sophisticated women who wanted to wear the traditional abaya, “expressing themselves beautifully”.
“They looked so much more powerful than the women who were forced by law to wear something they didn’t want to,” she recalls.
“Next to them, you would also see other women from the same region in other beautiful dresses and clothes.
“I realized then that I wanted to design clothing that would make women feel free, empowered, and beautiful.”
But upon her move to the US, her birth country, to pursue her new ambition, she ironically found the ‘flip flops, shorts and t-shirt style’ she constantly saw uninspiring.
“To me, women in the States don’t express their fashion sense and freedom as much as they could,” she says.
But getting her clothes stocked in boutiques across the US (Los Angeles, Miami and San Diego) as well as Dubai wasn’t easy. She had to master pattern making and learn how to run a business. However the biggest hurdle was learning English.
She began traveling to find inspiration and it was a Sao Paolo Fashion Week trip that inspired her to design swimsuits for women of different shapes, to make “all kinds of women feel sexy”
Her Dar Be Dar collection, consisting of triangle and strapless bikinis along with one-piece costumes, launched a year ago.
The title means ‘Door to door in Persian’ and is slang for someone who is all over the place to reflect her globetrotting lifestyle.
When her representative approached the Miss Universe officials about sponsorship earlier this year, they had already read her story in the local press and thought it would fit well with the contest’s aim to “empower young women”.
It was a race against time, but in two months she made 400 bikinis. More then 90 girls in the Miss Universe pageant sported her designs on stage at Las Vegas’ Mandalay Bay Centre.
“I respect the women entering these pageants,” Tala says.
“They work hard for it. I think very highly of people that follow their dreams and do not take their freedom for granted.”
She is now working hard on her next project, her Lipstick Revolution t-shirt collection, inspired by Iran’s revolutionary movement. It will be released in spring/summer 2011, with all the profits donated to her charity. She hasn’t ruled out trying to have her swimsuits stocked in Iran.
“Fashion is not everything, there is so much to this world,” she says.
“But I believe fashion is something simple that helps people express their individuality and makes them feel good about themselves.
“When I got persecuted for wearing a mini-skirt, I started thinking of it as freedom. I realised fashion served a purpose for me – it made me feel free.”
To find out more see www.darbedar.net
Words Amy Fallon
-
40 – The Me Decade by Santa Montefiore, guest blogger I have just turned 40, thus stepping tentatively into the ‘Me Decade’. That might sound... -
Fashion Accessories & Women's Fashion Woman fashion is not just about wearing fashionable and designer clothing. Fashion is something which every woman should associate herself... -
Bodily Functions? What Is Inappropriate? In the spirit of the season I will be taking some time off from blogging to spend some quality Christmas...
TATEOSSIAN: JEWELLERY WITH A HEART
THIS WINTER, HIGH-END JEWELER TATEOSSIAN WILL COLLABORATE WITH THE TERRENCE HIGGINS TRUST AND CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS FOR TWO VERY DIFFERENT EXCLUSIVE AND LIMITED EDITION LINES.
They’re usually relegated to the junk drawer, never to be worn again once the designated awareness day of the (insert charity name here) is over.
But now luxury jewellery house Tateossian, are collaborating with HIV charity Terrence Higgins Trust (THT) to produce an exclusive limited edition bracelet to mark World AIDS Day that they hope will be worn beyond December 1.
The Italian leather and sterling silver unisex bracelet with a THT red enamel link is the brainchild of Tateossian CEO and jewellery designer Robert Tateossian, a THT supporter for many years, and the brand’s head of public relations Adrienne Cline.
“THT is an organization close to all our hearts at Tateossian. I like the idea of items that people will actually use and wear and take away and keep forever,” she said.
If the line is successful, Tateossian is hoping to collaborate with THT every season.
The bracelets will be sold exclusively in their four London stores and online in the lead-up to World AIDS Day, with 30 per cent of the proceeds going to THT.
“I’d definitely like to see more brands doing things like this,” Adrienne said.
It’s a busy time for Tateossian. They are also working also with Central Saint Martins (CSM) on a new ladies and men’s capsule collection designed by the college’s recent graduates.
Six students have been selected for this. Three will design the ladies range and three the men’s range.
Mentoring them is jewellery designer and CSM alumni Hannah Martin. They will be judged by Robert Tateossian, David Furnish, Vogue jewellery editor Carol Woolton, GQ editor Dylan Jones, The Sunday Times columnist AA Gill, Christie’s Advisory Board Chairman Pedro Girao and Tateossian’s Creative Director, Ariel Thompson.
The chosen designers will be announced on September 9, with the overall winner named on November 24. The successful pieces will be available exclusively in Tateossian stores from December.
“It’s a really interesting and really diverse way of finding new talent that aren’t already working in the industry,” said Adrienne.
“We could have done it with a few other colleges, but CSM was definitely top of my wish list.”
She said that she expected some really inspiring pieces, with some “really interesting plays on the fact that it’s our 20th anniversary.”
“There will be some very masculine pieces, some very innovative pieces, comprising of metals and stone,” she said.
“You can see some statement ladies pieces coming through. We’ve very excited.”
As with clothes, Adrienne said that more people wanted to own something different and post-recession customers were also buying “less rubbish”.
Topshop and Freedom were “for what they are too expensive”.
“It’s so high fashion and it’s so over the top that it’s not reciprocal,” Adrienne said.
“I think when you do something that’s got a bit of an edge, people know there just aren’t millions of, it’s kind of much more exciting and people are much more inclined to spend more.
“The aim with these students is to get them to design something absolutely fantastic and unique and different but to also think about who is going to be their customer – who’s going to wear that, how is it going to sit on someone’s neck, is it going to irritate them.”
“Is it something they can wear at the time or something they can wear now and again that’s for an evening dress, that is really special and really different?”
Tateossian has also recently launched this season’s ladies rare stone collection.
When the brand was established in 1990 it was only for men. But due to demand from clients all over the world, a ladies’ collection was launched eight years ago. However, the men’s collection is still so vast that they do 150 new additions each season to their cufflink range.
Their products now sell in Russia, China and South America, among other places, with famous fans including everyone from models Sophie Dahl and Eva Herzigova (both recently snapped wearing a white Scoubi Dou leather bracelet by the label), to former pop star Sinitta and The Emir of Kuwait.
Words Amy Fallon
- Discuss: Hair styles that make you look older Allure talks about hairstyles that are aging. Let's discuss! A good hair stylist is hard to find One of the...
-
Apple unveils iAd platform; iPad sales look strong [/caption] CUPERTINO, California – Apple CEO Steve Jobs showed off a new smartphone operating system on Thursday that features an... -
Florida Gators Hat You can show a little bit of pride for your favorite sports team when you wear a Florida Gators hat...
RAIDING GRANDMA’S JEWELLERY BOX
INSPIRED BY THEIR LATE GRANDMOTHER LILY BLANCHE’S ASSORTMENT OF EXOTIC JEWELS BROUGHT BACK FROM HER DAYS LIVING IN RAJ-ERA INDIA, SCOTTISH SISTERS GILLIAN CRAWFORD AND LYNDSEY BOWDITCH, HAVE LAUNCHED A NEW JEWELLERY COLLECTION NAMED AFTER HER.
For many people, working with a family member would be the making of a nightmare but for Edinburgh-based sisters Gillian Crawford and Lyndsey Bowditch, it is proving a winning partnership.
“We used to fight as kids, but have a very symbiotic relationship now”, explains Gillian. In their relatively short career as jewellery designers — Gillian used to work in media, but launched her first jewellery and gifts collection Tartan Twist with Lyndsey in 2008 — they have already been shortlisted for Jewellery Designer of the Year 2010 at The Scottish Fashion Awards.
The pair are hoping their new range, Lily Blanche Edinburgh, launched at this month’s International Jewellery Show in London, will continue their string of success. Described by Gillian as “glamorous and romantic, with the aesthetic of Audrey Hepburn”, the most distinctive pieces—including the Eternal Pearls — have a strong vintage feel, tieing in to the Hepburn hair seen on girls at Prada’s autumn/winter 2010 show and the nostalgic mood of this season’s make-up.
“The collection is based around our grandmother Lily Blanche, born at the turn of the 20th century,” explain Gillian. “She was a kind of everywoman: she travelled, had children, lived through the war and was bombed out of her house, and could still knock up a wedding dress from bits and pieces and look stunning.”
Gillian says that as children, she and Lyndsey enjoyed visiting Lily, who was tucked away in a croft in the Outer Hebrides, and sifting through all of her treasures. “She lived in India when she was younger and before that her husband was stationed in China so she had a lot of exotic pieces. We’ve taken vintage designs inspired by her jewel box and given them a modern twist. We have tried to bring something light-hearted and fun.” Embodying this playfulness is the Peapod Necklace.
Made with a mix of sterling silver, British-sourced freshwater pearls, and Italian Murano glass, pieces in the collection will retail from £40 to £200 and Gillian hopes they will give the likes of Dower & Hall a run for their money. “What makes this collection stand out is the element of surprise; so many of the things open up, like the Memory Keeper Sphere.”
Words Hannah Davies
AKABI: FEMALE STYLE INTELLIGENCE
THE BLISTERING SUMMER ISN’T THE ONLY THING BRINGING A HEAT WAVE TO LONDON. SUSTAINABLE AFRICAN WOMENSWEAR BRAND AKABI SHOWCASED ITS GOOD-NATURED, PRETTY PRINTED COLLECTION IN JULY, JUST MONTHS AFTER LAUNCHING THE LABEL. INSPIRED BY THE STRENGTHS AND ATTITUDES OF THE CONTEMPORARY FEMALE ‘URBANITE’, THE ‘LOVE FROM AFRICA’ COLLECTION IS A FUSION OF THE BRIGHT COLOURS AND THE ENERGY OF THE AFRICAN CONTINENT. GET IT WHILE YOU CAN AS THIS ETHICAL BRAND ONLY PRODUCES ONE COLLECTION A YEAR.
Akabi means love in Greek. J’Quita, Akabi founder and designer , picked the name because “The foundation of what we do here at Akabi is love.”J’Quita’s passion for social responsibility, international development, sustainability, as well as her love for Africa led her to set up Akabi. She brings ethical intelligence and knowledge to the style of females worldwide and so she birthed the tagline ‘female style intelligence’. Her triple aim is to “promote Africa / empower women / love Earth.”The line has a casual side and incorporates feminine shapes and prints to make the garments fresh for an evening out in the peak of the British summertime. Sculpted skin-tight trousers compliment edgy harem pants. Akabi’s eco friendly collection promotes Africa as a continent with a great future. It raises awareness of the possibilities of trading with Africa and supports existing sustainable businesses presently in Kenya and Ghana by incorporating their work in the Akabi collections.
The organic cotton pieces are sprinkled with batik print work from Ghana. J’Quita also uses war parachutes, creating jackets and outerwear with a military feel. The production is innovative whilst keeping traditional crafts alive and bringing it to new markets.
Akabi supports women from disadvantaged backgrounds, encouraging them to develop skills, such as sewing, to empower them so that they can set up their own businesses. J’Quita is passionate about pushing the eco friendly aspect of the brand, “Our intention is to be a sustainable, desirable and ethically made in Africa fashion and lifestyle brand. It’s our social responsibility to take action where possible and to reduce the environmental impact as much as we can and in all we do.”Environmentally friendly or water-based inks for printing are used on the cotton jersey styles to help reduce the impact on the environment. Many items are made in Bamboo as well as Hemp/Organic cotton twills. The organic cotton is ‘Made in Africa’ and 100% Organic Cotton & Social Standards Certified.
Akabi will donate 10% of sales to the Seed of Hope charity. The organisation works with orphaned, destitute and disadvantaged teenage girls in Kenya, and helping them to have brighter future.
Words Jennifer Butler
-
Basic starring John Travolta, Connie Nielsen and Samuel L. Jackson [/caption] Army Ranger Dunbar (Brian Van Holt) is being interrogated by Captain Julia Osborne (Connie Nielsen). The situation is very... -
High Prices Of Organic Cotton Clothing Got You Down? Did you know that according to the EPA, seven of the top 15 pesticides used on U.S. cotton crops are... -
J Lo Glow Perfume Review This is a review of the J Lo Glow perfume, After Dark by Jennifer Lopez. The After Dark J Lo...
BLACK IS BEAUTIFUL – AFRO HAIR AND BEAUTY SHOW 2010
August 23, 2010 by Editor
Filed under BEAUTY AND GROOMING
OVER THE SPRING BANK HOLIDAY THE 29TH ANNUAL AFRO HAIR AND BEAUTY SHOW WAS HELD AT THE CONTEMPORARY BUSINESS DESIGN CENTRE, ISLINGTON, LONDON. THE BLACK HAIR AND BEAUTY INDUSTRY IS WORTH MILLIONS OF POUNDS YEAR, YET GO INTO ANY MAINSTREAM BEAUTY OUTLET AND YOU’LL BE HARD PUSHED TO FIND SPECIFIC RANGES FOR NON-WHITES. AS A RESULT OF THIS UNDER-REPRESENTATION, EACH YEAR HUNDREDS ‘ETHNICALLY FOCUSED’ COMPANIES BECOME EXHIBITORS AND SET UP STALL PROMOTING PRODUCTS THAT, BY AND LARGE, ARE AIMED AT THE EVER GROWING AFRO-CARIBBEAN/BLACK/MIXED CONSUMER POPULATION.
This year the show’s buzzword was diversity. Gone are the days when the choice of hair style for women of colour was limited to wearing your chemically straightened hair either long or short. Today ‘Relaxer’ packs are still sold by the truck-load but we’re more likely than ever before to spot a woman of colour sporting her ‘natural’ hair. Subsequently, this year a greater emphasis was placed on natural hair options, which shone with ingenuity, and exhibitors were dedicated to spilling natures secret’s to incredibly healthy hair. A programme of seminars provided the opportunity to learn via the conventional methods; and Stop Watch Stylist competitions, challenged hairdressers to create inventive hair designs within a strict fifteen minute time slot to prove just how easy it is to tame a dense mass of afro hair, and win the approval of the celebrity judges in attendance.
Dyhema from the Southeast London salon, LocsTafari, specialises in ‘Locs’ and natural hair grooming, inspired by the legacy of her African heritage and upbringing. Whether it’s an Afro, Micro Thin Locs or organically grown Jumbo Locs her approach is the same; natural oils, blessed hands and hearts of love.
To create ‘Locs’ Dyhema explains that “several techniques can be used, so many, [laughs] just so many. You can use your fingers to twist sections of hair into ‘Locs’. You can get a flannel or woolly jumper and rub round in circles around your head – you’lll start to notice little ‘Loc’ balls forming. The most common technique is simply by doing it organically. Just leaving your hair and it’ll eventually mat together and form ‘loc’s on their own. Or there’s ‘Interlocking’ which involves using a needle to hook sections of hair together.”
She found herself within the professional ‘Loctitian’ circle when she “started just doing favours for friends. Then I realised that my hair diary was more hectic than my work diary. It’s something that I enjoy doing, so I decided to make a career out of it. It’s amazing how little is known about a natural hair style so it gives me a chance to help people express themselves.”
When asked whether she would advise going to the ‘Loctitian’ often, or just let the ‘Locs’ do their own thing, she continued: “It depends totally on the individual. Some people in the corporate world would go to the salon more often because they want to keep the ‘sharp’, ‘fresh’ look. They might need to go to the salon more often than someone is an artist. What I do say though, is that in life, too much of one thing is not bad thing. You can kind of over-do ‘Locs’ as constantly re- twisting the ‘Locs’ can make them weak, so I would advise grooming them not more than once every two weeks.”
Despite the attendance of exhibitors championing natural hair, the promotion of human and synthetic false hair is still the main draw for the thousands of visitors to the Afro Hair and Beauty Show.
Exhibitor ‘Neferlady’ boasts of supplying “100% Virgin Natural Brazilian and Malaysian Hair from 10 – 24 inches”, ‘Lace Wig Elegance’ peddles “Brazilian, Indian, Peruvian, and Malaysian hair that is 100% virgin, guaranteed tangle free that moves naturally”, ‘Bullfinch International Ltd’ are manufacturers of “luxurious, flowing 100% Virgin Remy Indian Human Hair”. It is exactly this massive demand for straight false-hair alternatives that inspired award-winning comedian and filmmaker, Chris Rock, to investigate this pandemic in his hilarious Fall 2009 documentary, Good Hair, Chris visits beauty salons and hairstyling battles, much like those of the Afro Hair and Beauty Show; but also visits scientific laboratories and Indian temples to explore the way hairstyles impact the activities, pocketbooks, sexual relationships, and self-esteem of the black community. The film was heavily promoted at the event.
The show also provided an opportunity to observe the beautiful models and fabulous designs from some of the finest UK designers of Afro-Caribbean/Black/Mixed heritage and be bowled over by street dance routines choreographed and performed by the stars of the latest dance movie StreetDance. ‘Tamarind Books’, the leading independent publisher of multicultural picture books held a creative writing workshop on writing multicultural stories for children and teens and discussed the importance of representing of black children in literature.
The Bank Holiday Weekend was brought to a close with the amazing ‘Sensationnel Icon’ competition. The most creative hair designers from around the country, each created a collection of elaborate masterpieces showcasing their visions in colour, shape and astounding workmanship. The winner was Angela Plummer of Sour2Sweet in North London who knitted and plaited the hair extensions into millinery inspired creations to music by Grace Jones.
Words and images Almaz Ohene
-
How Long Has Bob Barker Had White Hair? I saw a recent picture of him sorry that he dissed Drew Carey, and I'm amazed that his hair is... - Discuss: Hair styles that make you look older Allure talks about hairstyles that are aging. Let's discuss! A good hair stylist is hard to find One of the...
-
Denver Ski Resorts Are you looking for a top notch ski resort in the Denver area? Keep reading for information on some of...
THE DOLL HOUSE JEWELLERY
HELEN TURTON HAS JUST LAUNCHED THE DOLL HOUSE, AN INDEPENDENT JEWELLERY COMPANY. EVERY PIECE IS INDIVIDUALLY DESIGNED, SOURCED AND HANDMADE USING DOLLHOUSE MINIATURES, CREATING A UNIQUE, KITSCH LOOK. ALMAZ OHENE MET HER TO CHAT ABOUT HER INSPIRATION, HER BUSINESS PLANS AND WHY SHE DIDN’T GIVE ALMAZ A PIECE FOR HER BIRTHDAY; SEE, ALMAZ AND HELEN GO WAY BACK…
We meet at a Sheffield bar. Helen orders pink fruit beer for both of us while I admire her outfit. She’s wearing… well, she places her hands in front of her on top of the bar, so that I can see her jewellery. On three of her fingers, she’s sporting dinner plate rings. Eggs, chips and beans on one hand, and a Full-English Breakfast on the other. About her neck is a rocking horse necklace. Clipped in her hair is a large, pink gingham bow, which, on closer inspection, forms the cloth of a tiny champagne picnic. This woman loves fashion – that much is obvious from her high-waisted tailored hot pants paired with floral print tights. Naturally, I ask her is why she chose to go into jewellery and not clothes.
“I started out modifying my own clothes, getting fridge magnets and gluing them onto shoes and generally trying to modify my own wardrobe.
“I like things to be unique. I’ve always had a passion for jewellery. The Doll House stemmed from having gone down to a little shop which sold miniatures for dollhouses when I was at college. I saw a little telephone and though that it would look amazing if I turned it into a ring. The whole thing just blossomed from there.”
I ask her where she sources all of the fantastic dolls house miniatures.
“I go into dollhouse emporiums, look around and decide which bits will look amazing if I turn them into jewellery. Sometimes, I come up with an idea and hunt down a piece, often through scouring free-ads pages or going to car-boot sales. I also find new and vintage material on eBay.”
As well as the themed collection ‘In The Kitschen’ and ‘The Music Box’, Helen creates individual pieces such as the Grandfather Clock Brooch, the Telephone Fascinator, the Rocking Horse Necklace and Teacup Earrings.
It was time for the inevitable question about her inspiration.
“There was no designer or person who I saw and then said, ‘Oh, right so I need to look like that.’ The people that inspire me are different. They include designers like Vivienne Westwood and like TigerMilk, who are some of my own friends. They spur me on and let me know that it’s cool to keep things different from everything else out there.”
She’s collaborated with photographer Holly Booth on a couple of promotional shoots which have a very distinctive style.
“We wanted to make the model look like a living doll. I had some crazy make up done by Lucy Engelfield, an amazing make-up artist. Holly and I worked on getting the right angles and the right lighting to make her look just like a Porcelain doll.”
Helen talks animatedly about the second ‘location’ shoot. She mentions a few different people who were part of that project; I wonder what it was like to work with a team.
“For the second shoot, I worked with Lotte Manson and Kirsty Mann, the TigerMilk girls, brainstorming ideas for backdrops. We had an idea for an Alice in Wonderland theme that eventually developed into something involving mirror and chandeliers in the woods.
“Having a crew made it more fun. Holly did some really good work, working out the best camera angles and the best lighting; angling the mirrors so the end product looked really beautiful.”
Helen’s jewellery is currently on sale at Syd and Mallory’s in Sheffield. I wonder how she sees her business developing from there?
“I got involved with Syd and Mallory’s quite recently. That was my first progression to taking the whole thing seriously, rather than just wearing my own jewellery. When I have more time I’m going to expand it, buy the materials in bulk and try to get more pieces finished. I really like little boutique shops but I’d like to branch out to other cities too.”
When pushed on the issue of her particular ethos she replies:
“I really like having clothes and jewellery that look different to what other people are wearing. My main idea is getting something kitsch and unique to everybody that wants to wear the jewellery. No piece of jewellery is exactly the same as any other piece; so when you buy a piece it’ll be completely different from anything that anybody else has.”
Words Almaz Ohene
-
Can You Really Build A House Solar Panel? Is it really possible to build your own house solar panel? With energy supplies rapidly declining and global warming affecting... -
Don't Throw Away Your IKEA Furniture, Just Refurbish And Recover It! OK I will admit it"¦we have a few pieces of IKEA furniture in our house. There, I said it. A... -
Introducing to VBlogging In a lot of ways, text blogging has become a thing of the past. Folks are beginning to blog in...
FROM SOMEWHERE POP UP SHOW
WHERE DO YOU GO FOR FASHION-FORWARD, ETHICAL CLOTHING? SUSTAINABLE WOMENSWEAR LABEL FROM SOMEWHERE, ON PORTOBELLO ROAD, OFFERS THE BEST GREEN FASHION GARMENTS IN LONDON. LAST MONTH, FOUNDER ORSOLA DE CASTRO, WHO IS ALSO THE BRAIN BEHIND ESTETHICA, OPENED UP HER SHOP TO SOME OF THE MOST CREATIVE AND ECO-FRIENDLY DESIGNERS OF THE MOMENT.
The show celebrated designers who minimise their impact on the environment by using organic, fair trade and recycled materials.
Sonya Kashmiri’s beautifully designed and thoughtfully handcrafted vegetable leather bags sat in the window along with pairs of Nina Dolcetti’s daring, architectural and design led shoes made from up-cycled leather.
You could also find MTLabel’s hand-cut and hand-stitched leather clutches and KAYU’s range of bamboo sunglasses. As part of the label’s ongoing campaign against preventable blindness, every pair sold funds one sight-restoring surgery in a developing country.
Finnish designer Minna Hepburn, recently chosen by the British Fashion Council for the Estethica mentoring programme, explained that the Minna collection includes accessories complementing each outfits, such as a bespoke bird necklace and a removable collar.
“As with all the designers on show, it is about traceability and using every shred of the vintage fabrics. I think it is important to have a UK and handmade element to my clothing line. My dresses are made of vintage lace and this gives it a personal feel. You can really tell the difference between the high street lace and what I use. It has intrigue, subtlety and roots. Some of my materials even come from curtains,” said Hepburn.
The show raised the profile of these green designers in London and Great Britain. The different buying habits in continental Europe means that green labels often do better in France and Germany, where clients buy investment items they can wear to death. Thanks to the pop up show, many designers who don’t have bricks-and-mortar shops in the UK were able to push their garments to the British audience.
Words Jennifer Butler
- Copywriting Services Marketing Strategist and Copywriter from London UK wins the 'complete trust' of industry professionals and proves... How To Attract More...
- Ebony Fashion Fair reminiscenses Ebony Fashion Fair is coming to town again. If you want to see a good show, very electric, by all...
- 2nd Phawville Design Here is my 2nd WP design. I know it's not that good but hey a learned a lot while creating...
GRACE AND STYLE
MILLIONS OF WOMEN MAY GIVE ALL THE LUXURY LIPSTICKS IN THE WORLD TO LOOK LIKE HER TODAY, SO IT’S PERHAPS PARADOXICAL THAT THE ELEGANT LOOK THAT GRACE KELLY PULLED OFF WAS ALL APPARENTLY DOWN TO A VERY EFFORTLESS APPROACH.
The late actress and princess applied a similar simple attitude to her wardrobe as the set of values that she lived her life by.
Her style is currently the subject of a Victoria & Albert museum exhibition that was nearly two years in the making. It will probably turn out to be the most popular one ever held in the museum’s Fashion Gallery temporary exhibition space.
Grace, who married Prince Rainier III in 1956, was “loyal to her old clothes the way she was loyal to her old friends”, one magazine article in the 1950s reported her as saying.
“I just buy my clothes when they take my eye,” she said.
“And I wear them for years.” Her treasured brown leather Hermes “Kelly” handbag, which collected numerous marks over the years, is probably the most famous example of this.
V&A curator of fashion Jenny Lister says that the Style Icon exhibition, which features mostly items on loan from the Princely Palace in Monaco, is surprisingly attracting, among others, many 20-somethings and younger people born after Grace tragically plunged off a cliff in Monaco in 1982.
“You often see fashion students sketching the dresses, so they are still clearly interested in using Grace Kelly’s wardrobe as a reference and maybe as inspiration for their designs,” she says.
Although her life story was “extraordinary, encompassing the glamour of Hollywood and European royalty,” Grace Kelly became “almost a kind of short-hand or code for that classic, restrained way of dressing that never quite goes out of fashion, in contrast to more outlandish, or overtly sexual styles”, Lister says.
“She loved things that were beautifully made,” Lister says.
“Perhaps things are not made to last as well these days.
“But I think from Grace Kelly we can all learn to appreciate our clothes more, look after them and enjoy them too.”
Of course post-war austerity may have had a lot to do with her demure, sensual style.
But even when she was sporting a diaphanous silk chiffon dress that billowed out into a beautifully flared full length skirt, perfect for dancing with Frank Sinatra, or an elaborate gold headpiece like the one she donned for a 1969 Dier des Testes bash – it was so fancy that Grace had to ride there on the floor of a van – the princess’ personality still outshone any diamond. She wore the clothes, and not the other way around.
“I think it’s important to see the person first and the clothes afterwards,” Grace in fact once remarked.
“I have to choose simple clothes because when I wear anything dramatic I seem to get lost.”
During the 1950s Grace’s face was plastered on hundreds of magazines.
LIFE featured her on an April 1955 cover in the Edith Head pale blue silk satin coat that she’d worn to accept her Best Actress Oscar that year.
Another magazine circa the same carried the headline: “Grace Kelly tells how to travel light”. Can you imagine today’s style icons, the likes of Victoria Beckham, doing the same?
Interestingly, Grace Kelly was the first to admit that she’d never be seen front row at the fashion shows.
In fact, she was the first one to admit that she never attended fashion parades, proving – may we all breathe a collective sigh of relief - that one can care about more than fashion and still become a style icon.
“Grace had determination and worked hard for her success, and had to make difficult decisions about her career and family,” says Lister.
Although the exhibition, which lasts until September 26, has been a crowd puller for the V&A, the press coverage it’s received hasn’t been all positive. One broadsheet reviewer in fact branded it ”damp squib”. Visitors may also agree that there is far too much packed into two small galleries. While the same critic was apparently disappointed by the worn-out handbags which appeared to have come from a “high-class Oxfam shop”, another broadsheet fashion writer seemed to celebrate Grace Kelly’s ‘thrifty approach’, pointing out that while the royal may have had the same handbag for years, today Victoria Beckham is believed to own more than 100 by the same label. I am inclined to agree with the latter approach.
What I took away most from the exhibition wasn’t really to do with the actual physical items that Grace Kelly carried, but how she carried herself.
Words Amy Fallon
-
Black Friday: Tips, Tricks and Cautions Black Friday is just around the corner. Secret Black Friday sites are starting to crop up again and are already... -
Review: Shiver by Maggie Stiefvater Their love was hopeless and yet they couldn’t help but hope no matter how bleak and forbidden it was. Grace... -
The value of photographic prints Stephan R. Lewis is a professional photographer. He accepted to share his knowledge with us, with this exclusive article. The...
THE TRAVELLING BAND – THE HORIZON, ME AND YOU
SINCE THEIR FORMATION OVER THREE YEARS AGO, THE TRAVELLING BAND HAVE TAKEN INFLUENCES FROM ACROSS THE BOARD TO CREATE THEIR OWN BLEND OF PSYCHADELIA, FOLK, BLUES, COUNTRY AND POP. INDEED A DIFFICULT BAND TO PIGEONHOLE, BUT WHAT’S THE FASCINATION WITH LABELLING EVERYTHING WE HEAR? THEIR MUSIC CAN BE INTERPRETED IN ANY NUMBER OF WAYS; A QUALITY WHICH MAKES THIS BAND SO INTERESTING AND PROBABLY THE REASON WHY THEY’VE CREATED SUCH A LOYAL FAN BASE NATIONWIDE. A CERTAIN HONESTY IS PRESENT IN THEIR WORK.
2010 is proving to be an exciting year for TTB. Having completed a string of U.K dates including Glastonbury for the third year on the trot, the seasoned travellers are giving fans another teaser of what to expect from their forthcoming second album, which is due for release later this year.
“The Horizon, Me and You” is the next installment from the album, following on from the success of the beautifully crafted track, “Sundial” which received a great deal of radio play and acclamation earlier in the year. The track is to be put out as a very limited edition 7” (500 to be precise) as part of the Too Pure Singles Club series. This appears to be a bold move by the band as all their work has been previously released on their own Sideways Saloon label, but a move that stays in touch with their organic roots nonetheless.
You can expect to hear a definite move into pop territory from this latest offering by the Manchester six-piece. With this track, simplicity appears to be key. Humbling lead vocals from Adam Gorman accompanied by simple riffs, keys and the occasional harmony lead up to one of the catchiest choruses of the Summer. Three minutes of unadulterated Americana bliss. Without doubt a feel good hit, I challenge anyone to disagree!
Each member of the band plays a key part in the song writing process, a factor that is evident on listening through the band’s repertoire. Although they have a distinct sound, there is a definite individuality to each track. This makes it all the more exciting to hear what the new will album have to offer.
Fingers crossed they’ll live up to expectations.
Single available Aug 16th on 7” (pre-order online now) or join the Singles Club at www.toopure.com
Words Dan Howell Images Joanna Dudderidge
-
30 Seconds To Mars Win Their War: A VMA Cheat Sheet Take a look back at Jared Leto and company's road to the 2010 VMAs.By James Montgomery 30 Seconds To Mars... -
Saxophone 101 In comparison to many other types of musical instruments, the saxophone is still relatively new to the world of music.... - Humbug; The New Arctic Monkeys CD The Arctic Monkey, the English rock band sensation, has recently released their third album. The album is entitled, Arctic Monkeys...
ZED EYE IS REINVENTING AFRICAN FASHION
THE WORLD CUP MAY BE OVER, BUT AFRICA IS HAVING A LONG-LASTING IMPACT ON FASHION.
Tribal Romance, the spring/summer 2010 offering from label Zed Eye is a new take on the ethnic trend, a courtship between tribal prints and chiffons, satin, cotton and floral patterns.
“The combinations, although unusual and unexpected, manage to work together as they woo each other and indeed the audience into believing they should be together,” says the creator of the line, Nigerian-born designer Ngozi Pere-Okorotie, 27.
“I always play around with differences in fabrics, colours, textures and patterns.
“I have always wanted to integrate African prints to my collection but needed to do it without compromising on my style of design.
“This summer provided the perfect opportunity with the celebration surrounding World cup in South Africa.
“My favourite stand out piece is the three quarter sleeve floral print summer jacket. I love it so much and it has been the best buy with the Tribal Romance spring/summer 2010 and also a hit with celebrities like Kelis, Shengei (The Noisettes), journalist Caryn Franklin, celebrity hairdresser Tara Smith, also designer Henry Holland loves it too.”
The London College of Fashion graduate, whose biggest inspiration is Vivienne Westwood, is from the Igbo tribe in Nigeria but now based in Earls Court, London.
Although she actually studied to be an accountant, Ngozi’s mother ran a fashion academy and she was always surrounded by clothes. One life-changing moment that stands out to her is learning how to use a measuring tape when she was six-years-old.
“This aroused my interest enough for me to practice designing outfits for my dolls,” she recalls.
“The rest, as they say, is history.”
Despite being African, and feeling strongly that the industry has a “long way to go” when it comes to embracing black designers and models, Ngozi doesn’t want to be typecast as an African designer.
“I am a designer of African heritage,” she says.
“I am more than happy to cater to both Africans and non Africans alike.
She does still however hope to be part of next year’s South Africa Fashion Week.
“It appears that the fashion industry is booming in Nigeria,” she says.
“There is a huge market as the Africans are known for their exhibitionist behaviour even through clothing.
“This would make for interesting prospective designers as I am sure this will be reflected accordingly in their designs.”
The Zed Eye label will soon be stocked in boutiques and online boutiques, but in the meantime you can check out www.myasho.com or from my website www.zedeye.com
Words Amy Fallon
-
Decorating Style Guide The different categories in various styles: Some of the popular styles have their own category. Decoration help in improving our... -
Haahahah To All The German Fans Underestimating Spain :") ? Who are u rooting for now ? People opinion : ThanxForTheVENOM say : Still going strong for spain!!!! THEY'RE SO... -
Who Are The Best TWO Soccer Players From The German Team? I am really interested in soccer, and i have researched nearly all the teams...i lovve the german team, and i...
