Amy Childs has been given a makeover like never before. Topman GENERATION’s unique photoshoot turns Amy into the face of a mysterious and mythical bohemian rock’n'roll band from the mid-70s. With Art Direction from Editor John-Paul Pryor, Fashion photographer Michael Hemy (Tom Ford, Dazed & Confused, Louis Vuitton) turns the instantly recognisable star of TOWIE, and current show It’s All About Amy, into a sophisticated 70s glamour puss, tipping an aesthetic nod to the reportage-style glamour of Bob Richardson.

Adorned head-to-toe in classic vintage sourced by much talked about stylist Melissa Thompson (AnOther Magazine, Dazed & Confused), Essex siren Amy Childs is joined in her fictional rock’n'roll troupe by her vampish male bohemian cohorts. This is Amy Childs as you have never seen her before; this is Amy Childs, Voodoo Child.

See Amy Childs on Channel 5 in her show “It’s All About Amy” on Thursday December 29, 2011, at 10:00pm. “It’s All About Amy” on Channel 5 will be back in the New year from January 12, on from 11:00pm.

Topman GENERATION: www.magazine.topman.com

FASHIONISTAS AND FANS OF THE TV SHOW BRITAIN & IRELAND’S NEXT TOP MODEL GATHERED AT THE EXCEL HOUSE TO CELEBRATE FASHION, BEAUTY AND GLAMOUR.

The event offered the latest beauty treatments (manicures, pedicures, massage, professional make up, laser teeth whitening, fake tan, hair removal treatments, boob jobs, hair extensions…), fashion trends, workshops and the chance to get spotted by top model agencies.

Joey Bevan, the official fashion designer of BINTM, presented his latest collection, “Land of the Lost Toys”, inspired by Tim Burton fantasy’s world and Lady Gaga.

TOWIE’s star Lauren Goodger presented her hair extension range and also, Amy Childs launched her brand new womenswear collection.

All of the girls from series seven made their catwalk debut at the BINTM live tour, where they modelled different outfits from designers such as Jayne Pierson, Alice Vandy, Elle Mcpherson, Austin Reed and Firetrap. The band Luminites and the Swedish singer Bluey Robinson entertained the audience with their dazzling performances.

Truly girly and fun, the event was the perfect excuse to get pampered, do shopping and taste the BINTM lifestyle!

www.bntmlive.com

 Words and images Verónica Carpio Martín

GLENDA BAILEY IS ARGUABLY ONE OF THE MOST PROMINENT WOMEN IN FASHION. SINCE BEING MADE EDITOR- IN -CHIEF OF HARPER’S BAZAAR SHE HAS TRANSFORMED THE MAGAZINE. IN CELEBRATION OF HER TEN YEARS AT THE MAGAZINE, SHE HAS TEAMED UP WITH CREATIVE DIRECTOR STEPHEN GAN TO PRODUCE A COLLECTION OF THE MOST STUNNING PHOTOGRAPHS TITLED ‘HARPER’S BAZAAR: GREATEST HITS’. JENNIFER BUTLER SPOKE TO GLENDA BAILEY ABOUT HER NEW BOOK.

Why did you decide to release a collection of photographs featured in Harper’s Bazaar and why did it seem like the right time now?

I wanted to celebrate the work of all the fantastic photographers, stylists and writers that I have been privileged to work with at Bazaar over the last 10 years. When Stephen Gan and I started at Bazaar a decade ago, we wanted to create a joyful tribute to the world’s best fashion, talent and artistry each month.

How did you choose the pictures that went in to this book? Are they personal favourites?

As I edited the book last summer, I was struck by how many remarkable images I had to choose from. I have so many favourites, but in particular; Jean Paul Goude’s fantastical portraits of Naomi Campbell, William Klein’s portfolio of designers and their team (Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz brought a bus full of people), Peter Lindbergh’s cover of Kate Winslet hovering over the Manhattan skyline, Demi Moore and the giraffe, Marc Jacobs and Winona Ryder recreating ‘Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf’ and sending the Simpsons to Paris (Marc Jacobs even got a tattoo of his Simpsonized self on his arm)

Why did you decide to realise a book of pictures rather than features of interviews?

We included a feature or interview from each decade in this book, but we had a lot of brilliant work to choose from, which leaves another opportunity for the next book!

What do you look for in a photograph to make it onto the pages of Harper’s Bazaar?

It must be iconic and epic.

What photographer have you been most proud to work with? Did you have any lifelong dreams?

Richard Avedon – I got to meet him on the first day on the job at Harper’s Bazaar, and it’s been a highlight of my career.

Harper’s Bazaar: Greatest hits is published by Abrams and Chronicle and available now at Amazon.

Words Jennifer Butler  Images Harper’s Bazaar

AGENT2 FEATURED THE FANTASTIC DEBUT COLLECTION AND INTERVIEW FROM RAUN LAROSE LAST SEASON AND WE BRING YOU HIS LATEST COLLECTION FOR S/S 2012

This Brooklyn based, young and upcoming designer is destined to be a big name and has been on the AGENT2 ‘One to Watch’ radar for quite some time now. His latest collection sees an exciting progression since we last saw him and Raun states:

“For this collection I was inspired by my childhood.  I retraced the steps of my youth in search of things that were the most memorable.  Backpacks, comic books, and thoughtful pairing in sport attire.  As a menswear designer I strive to expand the concept of contemporary mens fashion through innovation. To challenge myself and explore new techniques, giving fruition to one of my key looks.”

To add to the buzz around Larose, Vogue Italia recently named as ‘fashion’s future’ in their menswear category.

Words Graham Gartside Bernier

AS MANY OF OUR AVID READERS ARE PROBABLY AWARE, WE ARE MASSIVE FANS OF PUNK HERE AT AGENT2 AND THE FANTASTIC COLLABORATION BETWEEN LONG CLOTHING AND BOY LONDON IS NO EXCEPTION!

We just had to bring you these amazing images from a series of shots by London photographer Teddy Fitzhugh that were taken to celebrate the Long x Boy collaboration earlier this year.

The collection focuses around a group of friends whose lives embody a distinct attitude and spirit found in both brands. The photos intend to provide a reflection, not only of their relationships with each other, but also of the distinct connection between the clothing and their lifestyles.

Check out the rest of the series here.

leavetheboyalone.com | longclothing.com

IRISH DESIGNER PAUL COSTELLOE OPENED LONDON FASHION WEEK WITH A “BABY DOLL” COLLECTION TO EMPHASISE THE FEMININITY AND FLIRTY SIDE OF EVERY WOMAN.

For spring/summer 2012, Paul has been inspired by the movie “What ever happened to Baby Jane”? creating an innocent but, at the same time, dangerous and naughty look which exudes pure glamour and sophistication.

The colour palette started with neutral colours such as light beige and grey, and moved to a brighter side at the end with turquoise blue and purple.

Stripes were also a big part on womenswear, giving a touch of French chic mixed with a playful tone.

1970’s Paris inspired silhouettes, empire waistlines, swing jackets and short dresses were the main highlights.

In menswear, the long coat was the key piece of Costelloe’s collection and grey was the predominant colour in a look made for men who want to feel classy and smart, like the perfect “English gentleman”.

Costelloe’s collection adds a dose of fun and style to daily wear.

After the show, London Mayor Boris Johnson and BFC Chair Harold Tillman CBE announced Fashion 2012, a platform to showcase and celebrate British fashion throughout London’s Olympic year.

See more catwalk reports from LFW here.

www.paulcostelloe.com

Words Veronica Carpio  Images Dan Harley

CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN KICKS OFF THE FIRST OF THREE BRITISH MENSWEAR DESIGNER INSTALLATIONS WITH HIS LIFE SIZE OFF CUT ANIMALS MADE WITH THE EXACT FABRICS USED IN HIS A/W11 COLLECTION…

AGENT2 loves to champion new and emerging designers and Harvey Nichols can often be found at the forefront of emerging new talent as well as creating platforms to help develop and nurture exciting new brands.  From this month to November, Harvey Nichols is hosting a series of in-store installations, created and curated by three British designers that they are currently supporting.

Christopher Raeburn kicks of the initiative this month.  The British ethical designer fuses innovative fabric technology with garment re-appropriation and a passion for military heritage.  His AW11 collection is inspired by research into the original garments, their fabric technology and development.

NEWGEN sponsor Katie Eary is next to drop in-store in October.  The London-based designer needs no introduction – her aggressive but noble menswear is an unstoppable, inevitable hurricane ripping its own way through fashion.

Katie says; “I’m so excited about this project with Harvey Nichols.  I’ve been waiting to get my hands on a great space and Harvey Nichols id the perfect place for what I have in mind.  I think people will be thrilled and intrigued by my installation… Frankenstein’s Lab in central London!”

Finishing off the trio of designer installations in November is AGENT2 favourite, James Long.  Long has fast become one of the most sought after menswear talents in London.  With a huge fan base ranging from Alister Mackie: Creative Director of Another Man, Luke Day: Fashion Director of GQ Style, and Lanvin’s Lucas Ossendriver praising James as his ‘favourite young designer’, James has certainly made his mark as a designer to watch.

James says: “I wanted to recreate the unsettled attitude of my Autumn/Winter collection within an installation space at Harvey Nichols.  With the use of lighting I will try to form and area where my collection lives in a manic mayhem of colour and texture.”

Find out more details about Harvey Nichols Menswear Project here.

Hollyoaks tends to deal with issues like that in quite a sensitive way. What is it like to be part of a programme like that?

Laurie: It’s really fantastic. You get a sense that you’re helping out because the show does deal with a lot of issues. Sometimes the storylines have to be a bit out there and it’s nice because they set up help lines and support for people going through that kind of thing.

Tosin: Hollyoaks does have a big influence on other kids, they look up to the characters. To be something kids can look up to is really nice.

Lucy: They approach it and they word it in a very sensitive way which is obviously very important. Things like my character being a lesbian and I had that relationship with Esther that was a summer romance. The way they wrote it was really nicely done, it wasn’t too over the top and it really showed a genuine romance that was at its first stage where you’re getting butterflies and you’re really excited when you see each other. It was really nice and really exciting to do that because I have never played a role like this before.

Is that romance going to continue?

Lucy: Oh, no, Esther wants it to but Tilly’s a realist, she thinks things through almost, I think, too sensibly but she always was like it’s not going to happen I need to get my head down and focus and it was what it was. I think Tilly could be a bit of a player. You can tell from her take on relationships that she’s had quite a few and they’ve never been mega serious, they just are what they are. That’s what I like about her.

Is this the sort of thing that you’ve always aspired to do?

Laurie: Acting in general. Just getting out there and working.There are actors out there who aren’t in this position who can’t say that they’re working on a show but it’s a fantastic opportunity.

Steven: We’re very lucky. It’s a great platform I think.

Tosin: I never wanted to be an actor I wanted to be a businessman. Don’t let this fool you I wanted to work in investment banking. I was going to go to university this year but I thought I’m getting work let me see how this goes then I got this and I thought I’m going to stick at it.

Was it intimidating to come into such a popular programme?

Steven: Everyone’s so lovely but it’s a big undertaking in a way. It’s a bit surreal. You walk in and you see Hollyoaks College and then you find yourself walking through the McQueens living room.

Laurie: It’s weird but everyone here is so unbelievably nice. It’s cool, you don’t feel any pressure really.

Tosin: The first day everyone asked which character I was playing, and had a chat. They all made us feel really welcome.

Lucy: It’s really nice because although everyone is really friendly and really welcoming at least we’re all in the same boat and it’s nerve wracking and you’re a bit anxious but it’s really nice we’re working together all the time. We’ve had lots of time to gel and our chemistry is getting really good. All the guys are living together and Scarlett and I are as well so it’s going to improve even more. I feel really lucky that we’ve come in as a group.

Have there been any big arguments?

Tosin: Yeah I had an argument with Dylan about moving the milk, no I’m joking.

Laurie: We had a slight argument because he’s a Manchester United fan.

Tosin: It’s only a bit of football banter.

Laurie: I’m an Arsenal fan so there’s a bit of rivalry and the other guy we’re moving in with is a Liverpool fan.

Steven: I’m any fan just keep me quiet. I just switch to whoever’s the loudest and scariest at the time.

What sort of projects have you worked on before?

Scarlett: Tosin and I did a show called The Switch which was great fun. I used to describe it as a Skins meets Hollyoaks for a younger generation. It was great we filmed all around London as well which was great because we both lived there.

Lucy: I was in Waterloo Road previously to this so I’m trying to get out of my Manchester accent, trying to neutralise it a bit. I’m the black sheep out of them all. I’m the northerner.

Do you have any say in what your characters wear?

Dylan: Yeah a bit, if you’re comfortable in it then yeah but if you’re not and they think its right for the character then they change it until it fits.

Scarlett: I think Maddie and myself are one and the same I have both these items in my wardrobe and they’re mine too. Our stylist is really great because he said if you don’t like it there’s no point buying it because if you’re not comfortable then you don’t feel comfortable on set. He was great he took us to all the great shops like American Apparel, Topshop, Office and Kurt Geiger, it was great.

Lucy: My characters really quirky and really funky and really edgy so he came up with things, we’d start off in Topshop because it has so  many different styles all under the same roof so it’s easy to start off there and kind of stamp a trend on what your character’s going to be and then go further afield and go to different stores. He’d pick up things and say try that on that were really clashy prints that I personally would never be brave enough to wear but actually you see how it really works.

Check out the new crew from this week on Channel 4 at 6.30pm.  AGENT2 brings you part 1 of this interview here.

www.e4.com/hollyoaks

Interview Elizabeth Horsfall  Video and stills Lucy Sharratt

THIS YEAR’S INTAKE OF NEW SIXTH FORMERS ARE ABOUT TO HIT HOLLYOAKS AND THE GROUP OF SIX ARE SET TO BRING SOMETHING DIFFERENT.

THERE’S THE BITCH, THE QUIRKY GEEK, THE LONER, THE OUTSIDER, THE JOKER AND THE GAY BEST FRIEND.

Scarlett Bowman, Lucy Dixon and Dylan Llewelyn who play Maddie, Tilly and Jono made an appearance earlier this year when some of the cast took a trip to Abersoch.

New to the show this week are Tosin Cole, Steven Roberts and Laurie Duncan who play Neil, George and Callum.

AGENT2 caught up with the stylish new additions to the cast as they explained how their characters are going to inject some new grit and fashionable flare into the soap.

In your first scene in Abersoch you were all wiped out after a party, is this sort of behaviour going to continue?

Lucy: Well we’ve just started back at school so we’re behaving ourselves a little bit more and focussing on work but the first time my character is seen is at a warehouse party and I’m not meant to be there because I’m meant to be in London with my family and then I end up turning up at the party with my friends and then Esther who I had a little fling with in Abersoch turns up but Maddie’s in before that at college.

Scarlett: Yeah there’s a house party scene before we start back at school in the week leading up to that. Then we need to study.

Lucy: My character is very studious, she’s always reading and learning. I love reading the books when I’m on set. I read a biology text book the other day about whales and it was really interesting. My character rubs off on me a bit.

Scarlett: I’m like the absolute tart because I’m there flicking through Now and Hello.

Maddie’s quite territorial, she knows who her friends are. There’s a drama with Bart which you saw in Abersoch and she’s out to get him back, but she’s got her wingmen so it’s alright.

Dylan: My character’s a bit desperate and he’s very different to me he’s more cocky and confident whereas I’m a bit more shy and awkward. He’s cool, I like playing him I want to be more like him. But he’s a bit too cocky, he gets wacked a bit.

How do these different characters fit in with the present Hollyoaks dynamic?

Scarlett: They don’t.

Lucy: Yeah, it’s a little group on our own. If someone were to be watching our group I don’t think they would think it was the stereotypical generic Hollyoaks, which is, I think what they’re going for with this new look and what I find really exciting because we are a new look for Hollyoaks.

Scarlett: I think it’s really interesting to see how it forms from the old version of Hollyoaks how we slot in as a group. Everyone’s wardrobe’s really cool, hair and make up’s wicked.

Lucy: We’re all really different. My character’s punky, arty, yours is kind of along the lines of 90210 but I would say Kate Moss as well.

Scarlett: My character references are Regina George (Mean Girls) because I’m a bit of a bitch and the girl from Mad Men.

Lucy: So that’s what’s great about it, especially because us two are best friends, we’ve known each other for years and we’re so different we’re like chalk and cheese so that’s what I really like as well.

Are you anything like your characters in real life?

Tosin: We have similarities. Sometimes you do tend to big yourself up when you’re with your friends, you edge it up a little just because you’re around the lads. So in that sense I would say I’m quite similar. In terms of playing football, being a lad, all that stuff. Trying to enjoy your young life while you can.

Steven: George is a good friend and so am I. Although George knows a lot about fashion and I don’t really. I’ve taken a more active interest in it now, I notice it more. My characters outfits are very out there and very colourful, I think they look quite cool. I bought a belt that he wears but that’s it, everything’s a bit too colourful.

Laurie: Since I started playing Callum I’ve started reading a lot of poetry. He reads a lot of Bukowski and I haven’t put the book down for about three days. He’s very dark and very abstract.

Steven: He was reading some to us on set the other day, he’s quite weird, quite cool.

Your introduction to Hollyoaks seems to have a Skins type vibe and they dealt with some really gritty issues. Will your characters be involved in anything like that?

Scarlett: I have wind of a storyline but I’m not sure. I know it will focus on the ups and downs of a standard student between 16 and 18. The stuff people go through like first boyfriends, losing your virginity, exam stress. I don’t think there’s anything really hardcore like Skins.

Lucy: I remember watching Skins and was absolutely hooked for the first two series and then I went back for the third or fourth and I kind of though they were glamourising the wrong things and making things out to be super super cool and you should do which are things that are naughty really which you shouldn’t be doing. I like that that we’re not doing that, we’re not showing that we’re getting wasted every night and turning up to school and not concentrating. We have our fun but at the same time we’ve got our heads on our shoulders, getting our heads down and working which is what I like and I hope that we’re going to be good role models for people of that age. That they can relate to that character and think if she’s going through it and she’s coping then so can I.

Check out the new crew from this week on Channel 4 at 6.30pm.  AGENT2 brings you part 2 of the interview from the cool new kids on Hollyoak’s block here.

www.e4.com/hollyoaks

Interview Elizabeth Horsfall  Video and stills Lucy Sharratt

AGENT2 IS NOT TOO EMBARRASSED TO LET OUR READERS KNOW THAT SOMETIMES WE GET A LITTLE TWINGE OF JEALOUSY WHEN WE SEE WHAT OTHER PUBLICATIONS ARE DOING.  WHEN THESE IMAGES FROM THE LATEST ISSUE OF VARÓN CAME ACROSS OUR DESK, IT WAS MOST DEFINITELY ONE OF THOSE TIMES WE WERE LEFT GREEN WITH ENVY. 

For the 4th issue of Varón – on stands worldwide September 8th – Nicola Formichetti styles himself and his menswear team at Mugler in the Mugler autumn/winter 2011 collection. Shot by Kacper Kasprzyk, the story features menswear designer Romain Kremer, communications director Alban Adam, and Formichetti’s assistant Matthieu Bredon-Huger.

The feature marks the first magazine portrayal of the Mugler team since Nicola Formichetti was appointed creative director at the house last year. It is accompanied by an in-depth interview with Formichetti and his team by Anders Christian Madsen.  Likewise, the cover of the issue features Nicola Formichetti by Kacper Kasprzyk.

AGENT2 brings you a small extract of that interview:

Nicola Formichetti in response to copycat accusations in regards to his work with Lady Gaga:

“In short, no, we don’t have other people’s looks on the wall and we don’t try to copy anyone. That would be a stupid thing to do, no? Do people really think Gaga would go and look at a music video and say, ‘That’s a cool video, let’s redo that’? People only think that because that’s the only reference they have.”

Nicola Formichetti on public criticism:

“I get really sad when people judge me and think I’m snobby because of stuff they read on the internet, like stuff about old people or fat people that’s taken completely out of context. It gets blown out of proportion. It’s sad but I have to keep moving, and keep believing in what I’m doing.”

Nicola Formichetti on Thierry Mugler:

“For me he’s like God, you know? So I don’t really wanna… I don’t really want to know what he thinks. Of course I’d like for him to love it, but I don’t really want to… For me he’s someone so high, but I’m not here to please him. If he doesn’t like it, it would make me sad but he’s not why I decided to take the job. The reason I changed the name to Mugler instead of Thierry Mugler was to make it less personal and more of a brand as opposed to a French couturier. I want it to become a global brand.”

Nicola Formichetti on Romain Kremer:

“He’s like an extension of my hand. Our tastes are so similar. I’m not very good at making things so he does it for me.”

Nicola Formichetti on Alban Adam:

“He’s my brain. Everything I think about the brand, he articulates into reality. And he’s not a boring PR person, which is nice.”

Nicola Formichetti on Matthieu Bredon-Huger:

“He’s my little brother. The stylish little French brother I never had.”

www.varonmag.com

Photographer Kacper Kasprzyk
Fashion Editor Nicola Formichetti
Interview Anders Christian Madsen
All clothes Mugler autumn/winter 2011

THE DESIGN TEAMS FROM BOTH SASQUATCHfabrix AND THE INOUE BROTHERS WILL BE MAKING A VERY RARE VISIT TO LONDON TO TAKE OVER A NEW ROOM AT LN-CC FOR THE LAUNCH, SHOWCASING A SPECIALIST INSTALLATION DESIGNED TO HOUSE THE  COLLECTION. THE DESIGN OF THIS CONCEPT INSTALLATION WILL EVOKE AN ‘OTHERWORLDLY’ ATMOSPHERE AND WILL REFLECT THE ‘MODERN NINJA AND THE BLACK FIST’ THEME THROUGHOUT. 

It will be the first product-focused installation since the store opened in November 2010.

SASQUATCHfabrix is a streetwear-inspired clothing brand hailing from Tokyo and are widely recognised as ‘the future of Japanese street fashion’ and have revolutionised urban Japanese fashion culture with their unique designs and fabrications.

Sibling design duo of Danish and second-generation Japanese heritage, the Inoue Brothers are renowned for combining their creativity and styling with local indigenous skill and craftsmanship.

The Inoue Brothers regularly work on installations for Comme des Garcons and Rei Kawakubo.

This exclusive collaborative collection comprises of three classic styles from the Inoue Brothers which have then been customised or ‘Tokyo-fied’ by SASQUATCHfabrix. Each garment is constructed from Tib’s ever progressive knitwear in 100% royal alpaca customised with traditional Japanese textiles and dying techniques.

With up to 13 editions of each garment in circulation internationally, this is an extremely limited edition collection. The collaborative collection will be stocked exclusively at LN-CC outside of Japan.

The launch evening will be followed by an afterparty in the LN-CC in-store club space with music from London-based Bad Passion Project.

Visit www.ln-cc.com for more details.

LENS AT TOPMAN THIS AUTMUN SEES THREE NEW DESIGNERS; UNIFORMS FOR THE DEDICATED, DANIEL JACKSON AND DAVID DAVID JOIN THE LENS COLLECTIVE.  THESE THREE EXCITING ADDITIONS WILL SIT ALONGSIDE CURRENT LENS FAVOURITES J.W. ANDERSON, NEW POWER STUDIO, DEXTER WONG AND DUSTY.

Scandinavia’s Uniforms for the Dedicated was founded in 2007 and forms a continuously growing playground of men’s fashion, music, art projects, and film. Driven by continuous experimentation and characterised by a playful yet functional approach, Uniforms crosses elements from various design and time periods to create a line of clothing sustainable over time. Debuting with LENS this season the creativity in design is clear for all to see with Scandinavian workwear styling focusing on utility and functionality throughout.

New York’s Daniel Jackson founded the international art and design collective Surface to Air. Surface to Air gained momentum as a new, fresh, breaking-the-rules type of collective. Daniel is renowned for the design of accessories and jewellery but LENS has allowed him his first solo foray into clothing design. Daniel’s LENS AW11 collection is a homage to the Velvet Underground as ‘New York Icons’. Classic silhouettes are subverted with modern fabrications and materials in a subtle, but strong manner.

Designer David Saunders (aka David David) came to fashion via fine art, graduating from Chelsea College of Art and assisting Tracey Emin and other Young British Artists before moving into fashion in 2005. An installation at the Topman sponsored MAN show during London Fashion Week was a turning point in developing David David’s signature style of bold geometric prints which have since become synonymous with the brand and are prevalent throughout his debut LENS AW11 collection.

Now into its ninth season, LENS is the brainchild of Topman Design Director Gordon Richardson and ‘b Store’ Founder Matthew Murphy. The idea is to create a space to showcase the cream of young emerging menswear talent from both here and abroad. LENS will be available in of the Oxford Circus store Thursday September 15th to coincide with the start of London Fashion Week and will available online at topman.com, London Selfridges, New York and Chicago.

Check out Topman’s new collection with Marc Hare here.

MARC HARE, THE MAN BEHIND THE MUCH LAUDED MR HARE SHOE BRAND, IS TO LAUNCH HIS FIRST EVER FOOTWEAR COLLABORATION THIS AUTUMN WITH TOPMAN. THE MR HARE COLLECTION – WHICH WILL FORM PART OF THE TOPMAN AAA RANGE – CONTAINS 10 STYLES ACROSS BOTH SHOES AND BOOTS INCLUDING EVENING LOAFERS AND HIGH SHINE HI-TOPS.

“The inclusion of Marc Hare to Topman’s ever increasing stable of designer collaborations is such an honour. Long being a fan of his beautiful elegant understated shoes it is such a pleasure to be able to introduce this collection specifically designed for our AAA range” - Gordon Richardson, Topman Design Director.

The Marc Hare X Topman collection will launch in two parts – the first at the end of August and the second at the end of October and will be available both online and at the Oxford Circus, New York and Chicago Stores.

Check out The LENS AW11 collection from Topman here.

IF YOU WERE AT LONDON FASHION WEEK THIS FEBRUARY, YOU’RE PROBABLY AWARE OF PANDEMONIA. AS A 7FT TALL, LATEX COVERED, CARTOONISH CHARACTER, SHE’S SOMEWHAT DIFFICULT TO MISS. ALTHOUGH SHE’S SEEMINGLY EVERYWHERE RIGHT NOW, LITTLE IS KNOWN ABOUT THIS SELF MADE CELEBRITY. IS SHE A LIVING HOMAGE TO THE POP ART MOVEMENT, A WAY OF COMMENTING ON CONSUMER CULTURE, A PR EXERCISE IN BRANDING? AGENT2 TALKED TO HER TO SEE IF WE COULD GET TO THE BOTTOM OF MYSTERY.

There’s a huge amount of discussion surrounding what Pandemonia stands for and what you’re trying to say. Are you making a fixed statement or are you open to interpretation?

Discussion is a good thing. Traditionally, art is illusive; does any one know the meaning of Mona Lisa’s smile and isn’t it all ‘in the eye of the beholder’ anyway? Can a person be a statement? Pandemonia is a cartoon reflection of metropolitan life in the 21st Century.

You talk about products being the new celebrities: conversely, how much do you think celebrities have become a product or brand themselves? Is your plastic nature a commentary on this?

Products hold the real power and celebrities are products in the media. Being a celebrity you have to manage your image in exactly the same way as a brand does.  It’s only the branding that distinguishes one thing from another.

Presentation means everything and it all comes wrapped in plastic.  Who needs content when the surface says it all? Commodities are no longer just things of use: they have become part of what we are. I went straight for that laminated look.

You’re placing yourself in the public eye in a huge way, but remaining anonymous at the same time. How do you deal with this duality and is it a deliberate comment on celebrity?

There’s nothing new about anonymity and being in the public eye. Just look at all the advertising.  Those images are flawless, and you can’t get beyond the surface.

I live beyond my self as an act of self creation. I’m a conceptual artist presenting the concept of  “A Pop Up Celebrity”.   Like an advert, I am another image in the media. Pandemonia is a story with legs and mysteries make good copy.

You’ve talked about being the creation of the ideal female shape – blonde, leggy, thin. Are you deriding society’s obsession with feminine perfection or are you part of it?

I’m just as influenced by the current aesthetics as anyone else. I take everything at face value.

The nature of Pandemonia means that you’ll never age – you’ll forever be shiny and new. Are you therefore the ultimate celebrity? 

Yes! I’ve taken it to its ultimate conclusion as another pre-packaged multi platform commodity. I work well in print, web, moving image and reality. Its catch up time for the cosmetics industry, they’ve missed a trick or two.

Would you say that becoming part of celebrity culture is the best way to comment on it, or is your immersion into the ‘it crowd’ just a way of getting yourself and your work known? 

Definitely! I place myself in the public eye so that I have a bigger impact on objective culture. News is spread in the market place. Celebrities make good press and people relate to them so being one of them is like giving your ideas a free ride. In the glossiest of magazines my ideas get exhibited right next to their influences. And of course the ready made audience is a big bonus. You can’t just buy PR like that!

Are you ever going to reveal what’s behind the latex?

There’s nothing there; isn’t that the point?

Finally, why Pandemonia?

Pandemonium means chaos. In Milton’s Paradise Lost Pandemonium was a palace of gold built by Mammon. All that glitters is not gold.

www.pandemonia99.com

Interview Tamsin Worrad

CELEBRITIES ALL OVER THE WORLD DRAPE THEMSELVES IN HIS DESIGNS BUT THE MAN BEHIND THE ICONIC ANDROGYNOUS FASHION BRAND UNCONDITIONAL, PHILIP STEPHENS, COULDN’T CARE LESS. 

I’ve always liked what I like to call ‘icing’. I think life is quite tough for us all. There are difficult realities that we all have to live with and then there is the ‘icing’- such as interior design, art and fashion- all those things that add a bit of colour. I’ve always had a really big interest in fashion and had a fashion PR company in the late nineties. Before that I had a go at designing and did my own collection with a friend who was a pattern-cutter. We sold to a couple of stores and I had to re-mortgage my flat but decided I wasn’t quite ready.

I started a store called Concrete eleven years ago which was a window into the work I had done in PR with other designers and it took off. We had a lot of celebrities and stylists coming in and then I did a line for the store, which was the start of Unconditional. To start with Unconditional was just two styles of knitwear for men. Factually David Beckham was the very first customer who bought Unconditional just because a box of my knitwear arrived in the store and he happened to come in to buy a pair of jeans with his stylist and ended up buying two of our cashmere sweaters.

Jude Law had his office next door, Natural Nylon which he used to have with Sadie Frost. He would come in and buy things and we used to have everybody come in. People like Gwen Stefani who would pick up Unconditional with other things we carried. I suppose really it was a case of being in the right place at the right time. A lot of stores and stylists would come to Concrete to look for trends and look at the labels we were stocking.

I think with menswear in particular when I started I saw a bit of a gap because there is a lot of really expensive designer clothing which can sometimes make you look like a Christmas tree or it’s too much of an investment or too much of a ‘look’. It was an organic process- I didn’t sit down one day and decide I was going to start a label.

When it cam to naming the brand I didn’t want to name it after myself and I love knitwear and think it’s quite cosy and you can cocoon in it and although it sounds corny  I suppose the concept of unconditional love kind of works with that- it’s a bit of unconditional love from me. Lots of people say they have been travelling in the brand and they were so cosy. I love the feeling of people being protected in it. Yes, it does sound really corny but that’s the core of what it’s about.

I love our customers- we have lots of celebrity customers but I like our ‘real’ customers- of course celebrities are ‘real too!  But we are not a brand that gives clothes to celebrities- that’s not what we are about at all. They buy it all on their own. We sell to shops all around the world and so I get feedback from who has bought things.

I think our customers are quite interesting. They tend to be cool but it’s not an age thing. I think our customers tend to be trend-led but only to a certain extent because they do their own things with the product. I like people to buy the clothes and make them their own. I hate people who think ‘This is the catwalk look so I’m going to wear it’ and it is something that puts me off doing shows sometimes because you do a catwalk show and put x with y and it suddenly becomes set in stone that that is us as a brand but it’s not like that at all- I want people to make it part of their own life.

I hate with a passion, cheap, disposable clothing but I think most of our customers don’t have masses of money- they might save for something and they will wear it out- literally. They might have had a piece for 3 or 4 seasons and then want the same style again.

The collection at the moment is quite big so there are lots of different facets to it. We have vests for £45, which is reasonable because we do use very nice fabrics. That is my bottom line- I will not economise there- it has to feel good and if it doesn’t feel good then there is no point.

I wanted to do luxury basics- pieces that you just really love- like the best hoodie but sometimes it’s quite difficult because you get caught up in this hamster-wheel of fashion where you are having to get new things out constantly. Although there are a lot of pieces that are signature pieces and are tweaked just a little bit.

Really sometimes a wheel is a circle and you can’t make it square- it has to be round and some things are perfect the first time and a design classic in essence.

It is difficult when there are other brands and stores, who shall remain nameless, who copy things and that’s a problem but luckily I think generally our quality is better and sometimes people want the original and that has happened with everyone. You can go and get a designer copy in any high-street store but everyone knows who it originated from.

I do think though that there are genuinely many things with Unconditional which are unique in themselves and to the brand.

The store in Manchester is going to evolve. With anything I do I don’t think I can settle on a finished product- I think you can do a skeleton and then re-think.

It’s like buying a new house and getting an interior designer- it can just look contrived. So you buy a few key pieces and then look at the light and maybe want to change the colour of the walls because the sunlight comes in differently in the afternoon. I think we’ll have to tweak but I like the theatre of shopping and I love the space, it’s a great, clean space- a blank canvas- and one of my biggest passions and influences is that whole Warhol Factory loft-theme and we did think about painting it silver but people would have thought ‘Oh my God you’re insane!’. I do love the industrial ceiling at the site though.

It’s not an Armani shop, that’s not what we are about. We straddle quite a lot of different places- we have some very high-end customers right to fashion students.

People pick up on the celebrity side more and more and I find that sad- I get no more of a thrill from it than other people buying my products. In fact, last night we went out and someone fell over in front of us and we got chatting and somehow Unconditional came out and she said ‘I love Unconditional! It’s iconic!’ She had bought one of our tops and then seen it copied in other stores. She said how honoured she was to meet me and that was really sweet.

There is talk of the label being ‘suited’ to London-fashion but sometimes people here are maybe more adventurous than London- it’s like music, fashion has elements of the same depending where you go. There is talk of opening a store in LA but I think with the internet and technology unfortunately more and more places are getting homogenous. Everything is everywhere and so everywhere is becoming the same a little bit. I think we should celebrate diversity a little bit more. The store here will be different to anything in London and different again to LA.

I think that within my collection my roots and my mindset is Northern- I can’t pinpoint it- I was hatched here- I am Mancunian and was absorbing things here for the first 17 years of my life. There is just something innately in me that is Mancunian.

People ask if I’m apprehensive about the launch but it’s no big deal. Well, I suppose it’s a relatively big deal. I dislike the term ‘flagship’- it’s just a store for local people- but it’s always a big deal putting things on and you have to react to what works and what doesn’t. Retail is tough but I think that if you have a good product at the right price and of good quality and those things all match there is an audience for it. If there isn’t I’ll have to start gardening and growing carrots! You’ve just got to try things haven’t you? If nobody tried anything nothing would happen.

UNCONDITIONAL Manchester is open now. Visit www.unconditional.uk.com for more information.

Words and images Lucy Zellerbach-Adams

CAPSULE#3, AN EXHIBITION OF WORK BY 47 FORTHCOMING 2011 GRADUATES FROM BA (HONS) FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY (LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION), IS CURRENTLY BEING FEATURED AT THE RICHARD YOUNG GALLERY IN KENSINGTON UNTIL THE 11^TH OF JULY.

Richard Young, the UK’s most successful celebrity photographer, and The London College of Fashion have organised this show to help launch the fashion photography stars of the future.

The work on display showcases the different styles of fashion photography created by these students, giving them the opportunity to get more public exposure.

Supermodel and David Bailey’s ex-wife Marie Helvin, Richard Young and Jeremy Gilbert from Nikon were the judging panel tasked to find and announce the 2011 winner, Sandra Madelane, who received the latest Nikon D7000 camera with an 18-105mm lens as a prize.

Sandra is originally from Latvia, where she studied documentary photography, graphic design and furniture design before coming to London.

Whilst studying in LCF, Sandra developed an interest in conceptual art and fine art photography, eventually combining both with fashion photography. For Sandra, the concept defines the value of the art work.

She commented: “For this particular project I knew that I wanted to create a still life image. The idea was born from my dissertation subject where I tried to explore the question of whether a female form can be used in still life photography and stand for an object rather than a subject.

The concept of this project was based on exploring the ideas of consumerism and people constantly purchasing goods they do not need and to illustrate a process of a human body being disassembled into pieces as a doll that is told how to shop and adorn itself. Particularly, I wanted to highlight the power of accessories, which are placed in the spotlight and become more important than the person wearing them.

In the future I would like to continue blending the border between fashion imagery and conceptual art in my photographic work.”

A 64 page full-colour catalogue supported by printers Chapter Press and design consultants Sampson May has been created to accompany the exhibition and is available to buy at the Richard Young Gallery, as well as the prints themselves, which is a great chance to purchase work from “the future Mario Testinos”.

Check out AGENT2′s story on the LCF Graduate Fashion Show 2011 here.

Capsule#3

Richard Young Gallery
4 Holland Street
W8 4LT London

For more info visit: www.richardyounggallery.co.uk

Words Veroníca Carpio Martín  Images Dan Harley

WORDS SPREAD LIKE WILDFIRE AMONGST THE FASHION CONSCIOUS TWITTER CROWD AND IT WAS THERE THAT RUMOURS OF A VERSACE/H & M COLLABORATION FIRST SURFACED. AND, AS THE WHISPERS OF RYAN GIGG’S INFIDELITY WERE EVENTUALLY CONFIRMED, SO TO WERE THESE RUMOURS AS H & M TODAY CONFIRMED THE IMPENDING PAIRING.

“I am thrilled to be collaborating with H&M and to have the opportunity of reaching their wide audience. The collection will be quintessential Versace, perfect for H&M and Versace fans everywhere,” says Donatella Versace.

The Versace for H&M collection will take inspiration from the Italian fashion house’s heritage and include the brand’s signatures of prints, colour, leather and other exclusive materials at H&M prices – well a little marked up from usual H&M prices.

The womenswear collection will be dominated by dresses that fit right in with the spirit of the season, featuring studded leather and colourful prints, with accessories including high heels and costume jewellery while the men’s collection will focus on sharp tailoring, including the perfect tuxedo, as well as belts and jewellery.

For the first time in a designer collaboration at H&M the collection will consist of some homeware pieces, including cushions and a bedspread.

“Versace is one of the most important brands of recent times, and their collection for H&M will be glamorous and flamboyant – everything Versace stands for. Donatella Versace is sharing with us iconic designs from the archives. This is such a celebratory collaboration and is perfect for the party season,” says Margareta van den Bosch, creative advisor at H&M.

We suspect that Donatella has been going through the Versace archives for a few weeks now, with Lady Gaga being wearing several vintage Versace pieces as she tours Europe.

The first Versace for H&M collection will be the Autumn 2011 collection set to drop on November 17, 2011, while a pre-spring collection will drop in countries with H&M online sales on January 19th, 2012.

We can’t wait to see what Donatella has in store for us – we love the black sandals on the model above – and if previous collaborations with the likes of Lanvin, Karl Lagerfeld and Jimmy Choo are anything to go by, there will be lines around the block for this one.

www.hm.com

Words Graham Gartside -Bernier

THE ENFANT TERRIBLE OF THE FASHION WORLD, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER, IS  GOING ON TOUR. WELL, NOT THE MAN HIMSELF, BUT SOME OF HIS HIS MOST FANTASTIC PIECES ARE. THE MONTREAL MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS’ JEAN PAUL GAULTIER EXHIBITION OPENEND THIS WEEKEND BEFORE THE COLLECTION EMBARKS ON A WORLDWIDE TOUR.

Marking the 35th anniversary of the designer’s label, ‘The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk’ showcases 140 examples of the artist’s work including his old teddy bear decked out in a paper bosom to Madonna’s corsets and a parrot feather bolero.

No era of Gaultier’s goes unacknowledged: there are the quintessentially French-striped shirts, but there are also Mohawk and tartan-sporting mannequins, over-the-top eveningwear, and yes, that conical bra!

Interestingly, while we’re on the topic of Madge, Gaultier once revealed he proposed to Madonna three times because she was the only woman he could have sex with.

The exhibition includes about 140 ensembles, but also sketches, fashion photography, and excerpts from films, runway shows, performances and more, in six different sections: The Odyssey of Jean Paul Gaultier; The Boudoir; Skin Deep; Eurostar; Urban Jungle; and Metropolis.

“Beyond the technical virtuosity resulting from exceptional expertise in the various skills involved in haute couture, an unbridled imagination and ground‐breaking artistic collaborations, he offers an open‐minded vision of society, a crazy, sensitive, funny, sassy world in which everyone can assert his or her own identity, a world without discrimination, a unique ‘fusion couture,’” said Nathalie Bondil, the museum’s director and chief curator, in a statement. “Beneath Jean Paul Gaultier’s wit and irreverence lie a true generosity of spirit and a very powerful message for society. His humanist aesthetic touches me deeply.”

ONCE AGAIN IT WAS TIME FOR ONE OF THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS FASHION SCHOOLS TO HOST THEIR GRADUATE SHOW. WITH PRIZES UP FOR GRABS FOR THE BEST USE OF TRIMMINGS AND INNOVATIVE USE OF FABRICS, THE COLLECTIONS WERE COLOURFUL AND THICK WITH TEXTURES.

A few well known faces scattered the aisles including fashion entrepreneur Harold Tillman, Jo Wood and a scattering of writer and fashion illustrators.

Every collection down that came down the catwalk was like a fairy tale meets a South American tribal twist. Beads and bells dangled from fur and knitwear. Leather worked alongside silk and a clash of colours sped down the runway. Pockets were shaped and closed like old fashion purses with gold clasps, bags were used as hats and faces were masked with woven sacks. There was also an element of high end sportswear thrown in. There was so much to look at it was easy to miss the details that went into the collections.

Draping and layering was a standout theme. One of the best examples of this was Yingzhi Luo – Chi Chi’s use of African printed chiffon, layered with pleated and beaded Maypole dancing strips of fabric.

Menswear was well put together and many had a fresh approach to the norm and had obviously thought outside the box.  Jung Yeon Chae’s collection pleated mackintoshes and shorts gave an almost Scottish Kilt. The men looked sleek in greys, blacks and whites, with leggings underneath, not at all feminine.  Jaeho Choi’s ying and yang menswear tailoring with large oversized bags gave a refreshing modern element to the usual.

Sean McGirr did a more gothic look, with high platform shoes, oversized knits and heavy metal inspired baggy trousers and Nair Afonso Xavier produced a line of wearable 80’s inspired wearable bright gym wear with poncho style jackets and fitted shirts.

Barnett Lawson Best use of trimmings winner was deservedly Charlotte Barry. Her volcanic gold goddess dresses were every woman’s dream. Detailed coats added to the luxurious dresses.

Biddie Sawyer Silks Award Innovative use of Fabrics was Stine Riis. Shiny materials and matt were added to leather to give a shimmery effect. Deep greens and blues coupled with red blue and grey  furs made this collection the most ready to wear, and appealing to the power dressing female form.

Nova Chiu, winner of Collection of the Year, sent goose pimples down the audience with her jungle pearly queen collection. Bright primary coloured fur detailing, with baby blue beads and tie dyed skin tight fabrics looked beautiful and exotic amongst the woven South American weaved jackets and skirts. You could hear the bells jangling down the catwalk, transforming you to a different culture.

Check out our LCF Capsule #3  Exhibition article here.

Words Jennifer Butler  Images Alex Maguire / Chris Moore – catwalking.com

LATE NIGHT CHAMELEON CAFÉ – OR LN-CC – PRESENTS THEIR FIRST ART EVENT THIS WEEK WITH ‘TOO DARK ONE LIGHT’;  A SOLO EXHIBITION OF NEW WORK BY ARTIST RICHIE CULVER.

The London based concept store will launch their gallery space with a show by Richie Culver - a series of new paintings, collages and mixed-media installations that sees Culver continue to explore the themes of love, loss and communication.

Beginning his artistic journey at the Tate Modern when one of his very first pieces ‘Jesse Owens’ (Have You Ever Loved Anyone) was hung in the Turbine Hall, Culver attracted the attention of the art world, with his first solo show turning London industry heads. His work is heavily autobiographical and Culver is one of those rare fiercely honest artists. Inspired by his own experiences he creates pieces that invite the viewer to share emotional, private and often pivotal moments in his life.

Highlights of the exhibition include ‘Quiet as you go up the stairs, my dad’s got a bad back’ and ‘I Loved You’ which relates to the artist’s attempts to communicate with an ex-girlfriend after the relationship fell apart, by spraying these words on her new home.

Throughout the exhibition the subject of attempted communication following a loss recurs and is particularly apparent in a series made from found Ouija boards. The series illustrates the universal struggle with grief, and the longing to maintain a relationship with those passed – both metaphorically and literally. Using his life as a tool for illustration, Culver offers the viewer a chance to reflect on their own experiences and emotions.

‘Too Dark One Light’ will run in store at LN-CC from 16 June until 7 July 2011 with an opportunity to view and purchase artwork. Open 7 days a week, by appointment only, contact appointments@ln-cc.com. See www.ln-cc.com.

IT IS ALWAYS DIFFICULT AS A MENSWEAR DESIGNER TO PUSH THE BOUNDARIES AND OPEN NEW AVENUES, BUT BROOKLYN BASED RAUN LAROSE HAS SMARTENED UP TO TAKE ON THE COMPETITION. JENNIFER BUTLER OF AGENT2 MAGAZINE SPOKE TO THE LAROSE ABOUT HIS LOVE OF ARCHITECTURE AND WHAT MADE HIM GO INTO MENSWEAR.

There is a lot of black and white and symmetry in your collection.  How has being bought up in New York and living there influenced your designs?

Black and white will always be a timeless classic. For my collection, less is definitely more. Growing up in New York has definitely influenced my work and my perception on Fashion. My main reason for pursuing menswear was because I lost interest in what the market had to offer.

What other aspects have influenced your designs?

I have a huge love for architecture. I always try to incorporate architectural influences in my collections. The more I develop as a designer the more I see myself becoming obsessed with shapes and trying to figure out ways to create new silhouettes.

What made you get into designing clothes, in particular menswear?

I have always had a major love for fashion since I was a little boy. My mum was a seamstress. I used to observe her and how much time and effort she put into her work. I always knew I wanted to pursue a career in fashion, but it wasn’t until age 21 that I knew I wanted to pursue a career in menswear. My main reason for pursuing menswear was because I lost interest in what the market had to offer.

What kind of image are you trying to create with this collection? Who wears your clothes?

I am really not concerned with building an image for my collections. I design clothes for the individual who is seeking a change.

You use a lot of different textures and materials in your work. What made you choose to do this in your collection?

I always like to incorporate an element of unexpectedness in my designs. The inspiration behind my current collection came from a book I had read entitled “Time Traveller” by Dr Donald Mallet. I used a lot of high quality fabrics (boucle, wools, cotton poplins) as well as a few unexpected (Neoprene, Foam, Swarovski crystals, Organza). I’m all for showcasing people in a new way.

An element of your collection that sticks out to me is that many of your jumpers and under garments fall below the knee, with tight leggings underneath. Tell me about your decisions when designing?

Whenever I start the creative process for a collection I usually isolate myself for a few months and focus on what it is exactly that I want to convey. For fall I was inspired by Dr Mallets and I was fascinated by the author’s vision of creating a time machine that could visit both past and future. After reading the book I formed this character in my mind, the young man who is a risk taker and wants to lead his generation into the future that is before us. Although he sometimes looks to the past his mind is focused on the future and what it has in store.

What is next for you? How would you like to progress?

I’m preparing to debut my Summer/Spring 2012 collection in Amsterdam during International Fashion Week. As for progression I hope to start selling my collections as well as be granted more opportunities to showcase my work to the public.

Interview Jennifer Butler

The University of Brighton Fashion Design graduate works with art directors, stylists and photographers to create imaginative bespoke pieces for fashion stories to enhance the aesthetic of a shoot. Her work is characterised by the inclusion of everyday object to create a kitsch yet elegant aesthetic.

She also takes commissions for costumes from numerous musicians, including Patrick Wolf, Bishi and Sigur Ros. Most recently, Fred Butler has designed the now-famous telephone headpiece for Lady Gaga’s smash-hit Telephone. Other clients include Selfridges & Co. for whom she has previously made headwear for window mannequins.

For this current season Fred Butler has again teamed up with director Elisha Smith-Leverock, to create a short fashion film with the same title as the collection as their A/W 10/11 collection film Sunshower, was voted Best Fashion Film of the season by Business of Fashion. Incandescent Meta-morph-incessant features model Lindsay Bard with make-up that matchesthe multi-coloured hues and geometric design of the pieces

Photographer – Elisha Smith-Leverock
Stylist – Kim Howells
Hair – Ben Jones
Make up and Nails by Yin Lee
Stylist Assistant – Reuben Esser
Model – Lindsey Byard at Next

Words Almaz Ohene

THE DIESEL SCHOOL OF ISLAND LIFE, LAUNCHED THIS MONTH OFFERING DIESEL ISLAND PASSPORT HOLDERS ALL INCLUSIVE ACCESS TO AN EXTRAORDINARY SERIES OF EXPERIENCES INCLUDING EVENTS, PARTIES, AND WORKSHOPS, HOSTED BY SPECIAL GUESTS FROM THE WORLDS OF ART, FILM, POLITICS, MUSIC AND ALL OTHER CREATIVE FIELDS.

With an emphasis on pioneers, new creative communities and inspiration insights, The Diesel School of Island Life will offer a new outlook, where its inhabitants can creatively thrive, express a point of view about relevant social issues and stimulate action.

All events will bring to life Diesel’s ‘Land of the Stupid, Home of the brave philosophy’.

The creative pioneers on hand to guide you through their unique take on the world include: Howard Marks, Goldie, Metronomy, Mr Hudson, Errors, SBTRKT, Totally Enormous Extinct Dinosaurs, Guerilla Gardening, DIY Taxidermy, Last Tuesday Society, Joker, Project Pigeon, Stephen Walters, BUG & Adam Buxton, Optimo and much, much more.

Tuesday, May 3^rd kicked off with a DIY taxidermy class from Charlie Tuesday Gates.

There will also be a very special series of talks from one of the most fascinating figures of our time – Howard Marks – who will be sharing his stories and imparting his own unique Island wisdom in three cities across the UK.

Other highlights include geodesic dome-building, creating an Island postal service with pigeons, adventures with subversive gardener Vanessa Harden who will teach citizens how to grow an urban island veggie patch and food foraging expert Jesper Launder who will show you what’s worth eating in Manchester’s urban parks.

There will also be a special trip to the English Riviera to shoot a music video with Metronomy for their next album, with Diesel Island citizens starring as extras.

All aspiring Diesel Island citizens need to do in order to attend some of the upcoming events is head for their local Diesel embassy (store) to pick up a Diesel Island passport or visit facebook.com/Diesel to sign up and unlock this array of life affirming workshops, special guest insights and VIP summer parties. By attending the School activities or making a brave purchase at Diesel stores, they will be given a Diesel Island visa, which will reward them with further Island perks, to be revealed throughout the campaign.

Details for all events can also be found at facebook.com/diesel

C/Bruerberg

Camilla Bruerberg, the designer behind the label C/Bruerberg took her inspiration from evolution and traditional craft, focusing on a combination of digital print and Knit. She opened with a focus on sheer knitted pieces including horizontal banding and crochet.

The perceptible traditional craft focus came with the scarves made up of threaded, frayed wool in bright orange, green and mustard. Many of the knitted pieces included horizontal banding with sheer inserts. A deviation from knit and crochet came with an oversized structured, print t-shirt.

A.Hallucination

A.Hallucination’s traditional deep toned winter pallet was a collection based around a reworked classic; the suit. A modern twist was established with the introduction of exaggerated detailing: large and numerous pockets, belts and toggles.  The Macs, trenches and coats were often two tone blocks of materials such as browns and blues and maroon trousers kept in line with the winter pallet. Jumpers were finished with in-built snood necklines which would serve as a practical winter warmer.

A white bowtie teamed with a white shirt was a classic touch of tailoring for A.Hallucination.

Mr Lipop

Mr Lipop’s stand out concept was incorporating accessories into the clothes. Hoods were zipped onto rucksacks in deep shades of purple and black. Jumpers featured inbuilt gloves hanging from the sleeves, showcasing the label’s flare for ingenuity and practicality. The addition of black and white fur to the hoods gave pulled the collection into the cold mid-winter.

A stand out piece was a French resistance inspired leather trench coat, styled with a black beret and polo neck. A shimmering navy jacket, brown and suede tunic suit showcased the wearability of Mr Lipop’s pieces and the inclusion of an oversized shearling aviator jacket, made sure that the men weren’t to miss out on one of this season’s big trends.

Asger Juel Larsen

With a lace-up, corset style outfit, models costumed like pall-bearers and the prevalence of black and metal spike, there was evidently a gothic vibe going throughout the Asger Juel Larsen collection. A model styled to look like Marilyn Manson and the addition of a cruxifix to a top-hat continued this dark theme.  Larson also looked to America for inspiration sending American flag worn as a cape – in muted black, brown and navy – cowboy chaps, and leather briefs down the runway.

Words Almaz Ohene

“At Teenage Cancer Trust we are thrilled to be working with Topman to raise awareness and vital funds for young people with cancer. Topman have come on board as supporters for the next three years, the difference they can make will be huge,” says Simon Davies, CEO Teenage Cancer Trust.

Every day six young people in the UK are told they have cancer. Teenage Cancer Trust units have a home-from-home atmosphere to create a sense of normality. The units are bright and vibrant and will often include things like pool tables, jukeboxes, games consoles, computers and webcams, to ensure they can keep in touch with family friends outside hospital.

The Topman sunglasses for Teenage Cancer Trust’s ‘Rock Your Shades’ can be purchased from all Topman stores and online at topman.com and are available now costing £16 each, with £5 of every pair sold donated to the charity.

Words Graham Gartside Bernier

NEXT MONTH THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART IN NEW YORK IS TO HOST ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: SAVAGE BEAUTY, CELEBRATING THE LATE DESIGNER’S EXTRAORDINARY CONTRIBUTION TO FASHION. THE LANDMARK EXHIBITION WILL CHART MCQUEEN’S 19-YEAR RISE FROM ENFANT TERRIBLE TO ONE OF THE LEADING DESIGNERS OF OUR TIME.

Curator Andrew Bolton, working in conjunction with Sam Gainsbury and Joseph Bennett, the production designers responsible for McQueen’s extravagant fashion shows, has organized the exhibition thematically, in keeping with recurring concepts inherent within the designer’s work. “His fashions were an outlet for his emotions”, Bolton explained, “an expression of the deepest, often darkest, aspects of his imagination. He was a true romantic in the Byronic sense of the word – he channeled the sublime.” Rooms, including ‘Romantic Gothic’ and ‘The Savage Mind’, will delve deep into McQueen’s characters, and his obsession with Romantic literary traditions.

The exhibition, which will be held in the second-floor Cantor galleries, will feature approximately 100 pieces designed by McQueen. Signature designs, including McQueen’s iconic bumster trouser, will be on display. Taken primarily from the McQueen archive in London, the exhibition will be supported by garments from the Givenchy archive and private collections. Pieces from longtime collaborators milliner Philip Treacy and jeweler Shaun Leane will also be on display.

The exhibition launch will coincide with the Met’s Costume Institute Gala Benefit, with Honorary Chairs François-Henri Pinault and Salma Hayek, a fitting nod to the theatricality that characterized the designer. Thomas P.Campbell, Director of the Museum commented, “Alexander McQueen’s iconic designs constitute the work of an artist whose medium of expression was fashion. This landmark exhibition continues the Museum’s tradition of celebrating designers who changed the course of history and culture by creating new possibilities.”

From 4 May – 31 July 2011

www.metmuseum.org

Words Graham Gartside Bernier

RENOWNED HEDGE FUND MANAGER VETERAN LORD STANLEY FINK AND LUXURY LIFESTYLE EXPERT DAVID JOHNSTONE HAVE UNITED FORCES TO CREATE THE BIGGEST PARTY THE WORLD HAS EVER SEEN.

87 parties in 71 locations around 40 countries will take place in a 24-hour period during 15^th and 16^th of September.

The Global Party is inspired by the adventures of Phileas Fogg, who travelled around the world in 80 days.

The Global Party will not only be the biggest social event of the year but also a charity event as 67% of the profit will benefit the following charities: ARK (Absolute Return for Kids), Blue Marine Foundation, The Duke of Edinburgh Award (IAA International Award Association), IIE (Institute of International Education), Pratham, Rasia Gorbachev Foundation, Senteabale, Virgin Unite and Tusk.

ARK was founded in 2002 by a group of leaders in the alternative investment industry, pooling their skills and resources to improve the life chances of children; ARK delivers high social returns on philanthropic investment. ARK’s programmes are highly focused on meeting pre-defined strategic goals in the areas of Health (Sub- Saharan Africa), Education (UK, India) and Child Protection (Eastern Europe).

The prices for the tickets start at £1,200 and there are 50,000 pairs of tickets available to purchase by companies and individuals. Each invitee will have the choice of attending one of the 80+ parties around the world and will receive a limited edition ‘Global party Key-2-luxury’ silver key ring allowing access to 1000’s of personal contacts and exclusive VIP privileges for life.

Celebrities such as Simon Cowell, Liz Hurley, Jenima Khan, Damien Hirst, Boris Johnson… have already confirmed their presence for an event that will unite the most prestigious elite from the world of media, fashion, society and business and that aims to enter in the Guinness Book of World  Records as the biggest party ever made.

Guests will have the opportunity to live a unique adventure in the most exclusive locations around the world: sipping Manhattans in New York, champagne in Paris, vodka martinis in London, margaritas in Mexico…

Leading luxury brands and destinations such as La Zagaleta and The Marbella Club (Marbella), Core (New York), Pure (Stockholm), The Grand Palace Hotel (Riga), Ragga (Mexico city), Supperclub (Amsterdam and Bangkok)  just to name a few will hold at the same time one of the most luxurious and prestigious parties of all time.

In London, The Global Party will be held at the exclusive clubs: Boujis, Raffles, Whisky Mist, Embassy, Bungalow 8, Maddox and The Yacht London.

The Official Private Launch Party will be hosted in the Natural History Museum in London one week before on Thursday 8^th of September and the journey will begin in London on Thursday 15^th with an exclusive dinner on The Orient Express train.

David Johnstone will spend 3 months visiting each of the 80+ venues and this exciting journey will be filmed by The Luxury Channel, the world’s leading provider of luxury lifestyle television.

The press launch of The Global party took place in the cosmopolitan Spanish city Marbella. Mr Daniel Shamoon (The Marbella Club’s owner) invited all venue hosts, sponsors, partners and international journalists to a two-day press event which started with a sophisticated black-tie reception to welcome everyone involved with this ambitious project.

The press conference took place at the stunning private villa-complex La Zagaleta, which will be one of the official venues for this event. La Zagaleta is one the most luxurious property developments in southern Europe and its 10 square km estate offers two private 18-hole championship golf courses, an equestrian centre, tennis courts, two beautiful clubhouses with first class cuisine, a private helipad, six reservoirs and vast green hills & woodlands for hiking.

During the conference, Lord Stanley Fink and David Johnstone explained to the international media what their event aims to achieve and some the charities involved gave a speech to explain how the proceeds from this event will be used.

After the conference, all the guests were invited to attend an exclusive party at the swanky club Suite, inside the hotel Puente Romano, in Marbella. The party was a sophisticated example of what this wonderful event will be with an exquisite European modern style buffet, followed by a jewellery and fashion shows, several performances and an exclusive after-party with free bar which lasted until dawn. The night also celebrated the 8^th anniversary of the club Suite.

It was a truly memorable and very impressive press launch but also a taste of a millionaire’s lifestyle and what The Global Party will offer to its guests worldwide. A unique event to see and be seen and definitely not to be missed.

The big dilemma now is which location to choose? I am already packing my party shoes to have the time of my life!!

For  further information and to buy tickets please visit:

www.theglobalprty.com

www.globalpr.ne

www.key2luxury.com

Words Verónica Carpio Martín  Images Dan Harley

JEANS AND DENIM HAVE SUCH STYLE THAT THEY WILL NEVER GO OUT OF FASHION. THIS IS A CERTAINTY. WHETHER IT’S THE SUCCESSFUL SKINNY JEAN, OR THE SLOUCHY BOYFRIEND JEAN, IT IS MERELY THE SHAPE THAT COMES AND GOES.

A good tip is to keep hold of your favourite pairs, fold them at the back of your wardrobe, and wait for their turn to come again. And it is a fashion fact that they will.  While seasons come and go, all that is likely to differ when it comes to denim, is the tapering, or tailoring. Outfits and ensembles are dependent on classic jeans to give edge, shape, texture and an instant fashion update.

This season sees jeans get feminine and Fawcett. It is a look not long forgotten; the flared look was around only several season ago.  Bring on the 70s Boho-inspired denim flare, sported by Charlie’s Angel’s beauty, Farah Fawcett. High-waisted light and dark denim have been swaying down catwalks and are the choice item for shops and boutiques.

As spring looks go, it’s a very pretty one, and befits the floral, chiffon and neutral blouses that are also in fashions. In fact, denim this spring, in flare-form, perfectly complements the spring season’s fashion for loud and bright colours, particularly block colours. Pick and choose satin and silk blouses that drape and soak the skin in bold and brash hues like brick reds, salmon pinks and aquamarine blues. Gold, corals and regal purples are also big hits on the catwalk.

Tuck these blouses in, to high-waisted flares, to tone down any over impact, and break the two items up with a tan leather belt, another classic colour which tends to go with everything.  A belly-length gold chain and some tan heels will complete a very fashionable Fendi look.

For a more high street version of this glossy ensemble, look no further than the fashion pages of the New Look website. There, you’ll find all the treasures of the season, including flared jeans, which are flattering on all shapes and sizes of female. From skinny to bootcut flares, have a browse for a pair to wear this season.

IN A WAREHOUSE SOMEWHERE IN HACKNEY, JENNY BUTLER WENT TO CHAT TO THE LATEST STUDENT OF CENTRAL SAINT MARTIN’S TO MAKE HER NAME AS AN UP AND COMING DESIGNER.  FLIK HALL SPOKE TO ME ABOUT HER LOVE OF PRINTS, SHARP SILHOUETTES AND THE OCCASIONAL DOLLS ARM.

From doing her foundation course in Fashion Print at Central Saint Martin’s this young designer interned with house of Holland and Giles. “Originally I wanted to be a fine artist. I enjoyed painting the body, making collages and putting textiles on mannequins. I realised at 17 or 18 that I wanted to pursue a career in fashion design”

Flik’s mother was a jewellery collector which gave her an early start at seeing how fashion changes over time. “The shape of the jewellery use to interest me and how it could be made into clothes. I like the idea that my clothes have texture, different tones and interesting shapes.”

The dolls arm necklace from her Spring/ Summer 2011 Mannequin Parade collection has been the talking point of Flik’s work. “I realise how lucky I am to live in London. You can wear whatever you want here and everyone here wants to experiment. In Paris the dolls limbs were seen as being a little odd. That wasn’t the case in London.”

Her idea stemmed from looking at alters in Mexico. “There was a jumble of toys on the Mexican alters and the colours were all very watered down. There were no dramatic tones and this interested me. Hessian was also a big part of their culture so I decided to incorporate this into my collection.”

Her new collection, which is still in its early days, is a lot darker then her previous collection. It still integrates a number of fabrics together to create an almost futuristic look. The shiny and matt contrast, silk and wool, and metallic leathers shows a designer who is very sure of her direction.

“I had been reading a lot of philosophy and I felt very dark. I asked myself ‘do we really have free will, and what would happen if we don’t?’ One of the dresses prints comes from me looking down at houses in London from a bird’s eye view. I wanted to look at who was in control, are there other driving forces, things that we can’t control that are already laid out for us?”

Her latest signing to Blow PR will mean we see a lot more of this young designer. Her next step will be London Fashion Week, but she has been given the luxury from her PR company to develop her line and experiment.

Words Jennifer Butler

‘SEE MY SMILE. SEE MY STYLE. SEE MY DISABILITY’

WHEELCHAIR USERS FROM AROUND D THE COUNTRY TOOK PART IN A HIGH PROFILE CHARITY FASHION SHOW, ‘DISABLED & SEXY: SEE MY SMILE. SEE MY STYLE. SEE MY DISABILITY’ WHICH WAS HELD AT THE TABERNACLE IN NOTTING HILL, LONDON IN LATE 2010.

Tess Daly, 21, post-graduate Image Consultancy and Fashion Styling student and wheelchair user was one of the main organisers of this event.

“After seeing programmes such as ‘Britain’s Missing Top Model’ and ‘How To Look Good Naked With A Difference’,  I wanted to revisit the idea of disability within fashion and show that people with even the most severe of disabilities can be sexy, follow fashion and display individuality,” said Tess.

I believe that people with severe disabilities are not only ignored within the fashion industry, but that they are also thought of in a stereotypically negative way by the general public. My hope is that this show will broaden the public’s horizons and encourage disability to be more accepted within our society.”

Like Tess many of the disabled models featured at the show suffer from Spinal Muscular Atrophy (SMA), a neuromuscular disorder that is characterised by a degeneration of motor neurones, resulting in severe muscle weakness. Although SMA has a varying degree of effects, a very large proportion of those who have SMA are able to lead relatively active lives, but rely on the use of electric wheelchairs.

The show was raising money for The Jennifer Trust (Registered Charity No. 1106815) which is the only national charity in the UK dedicated both to supporting people affected by SMA, and investing in essential research into causes, treatments and eventually a cure for the condition.

Hosting the event was ‘Britain’s Missing Top Model’ judge, TV presenter and fashion agent Jonathan Phang. Model and wheelchair user Shannon Murray, who recently featured in high street Giants Debenhams advertising campaign, was one of the models who cruised down the catwalk. Debenhams showed its support by supplying a trendy menswear collection of checked shirts and leather jackets.

This was followed by a bespoke collection by new label ‘Too Many Dresses’. Founded in 2010 by Zoe Elley and Alice Bogunovic, they combine traditional looks with the avant-garde and created bondage accessory pieces worn by Tess Daly herself – as stylist of the event she certainly stood out. The Sex- Factor was provided by donated Ann Summers lingerie and Tess and her models, Tumu Johnson, Jay Taveno, Amy Dunn and Sophie Cox all cruised down the catwalk looking sultry and sexy.

Able-bodied models also took part in the show and strutted their stuff with accessories such as ‘Glam Sticks’ – jewel-encrusted crutches made by Debbie Deboo. Channel Four’s Jon Snow brought further glamour to the event, auctioneering a collection of luxury items donated by high fashion labels such as Miu Miu, Paul Smith and Miglio. The Glam Sticks of the catwalk were also auctioned off and fetched a large amount.

Disabled and Sexy? Those who took part in this show certainly were!

For more information on The Jennifer Trust and/or Spinal Muscular Atrophy, please visit www.jtsma.org.uk

Words Almaz Ohene

Her AW11 ‘Spined’ collection appeared to be shown to press and buyers through a visual journey. By starting the show with darker pieces and concluding with nude, ivory and cream elements, a carefully chosen running order was evident and a pleasant viewing was had by all.

The show opened with a fast pace and an up-tempo beat to which Hardinge showed the darker end of collection. Dense black overcoats and structural pencil skirts were coupled with longer length sheer shirts and graphically printed imagery, helping to embody Georgia’s many layers of inspiration. The use of leather and the addition of appliqued ‘spines’ finished each look and helped to toughen up her beautifully constructed silhouettes.

The up tempo music was then slowly replaced with peaceful, operatic and calming tones helping to represent the neutral and concluding end of her colour palette. Structural jackets and heavy-duty wool capes were followed by knee length dresses, to which the addition of ‘spinal’ accents, were still evident.

Words Zara Sparkes

‘KINGDOM OF SHADOWS’ WAS WELSH DESIGNER JAYNE PIERSON’S FOURTH SEASON AT LONDON FASHION WEEK, HAVING DEBUTED HER FIRST COLLECTION IN SEPTEMBER 2009. BLACK AND WHITE IMAGES PROJECTED ON THE LED DISPLAY AT THE FOOT OF THE ON/OFF CATWALK AS THE SHOW BEGAN AND A MODEL IN A BEAUTIFULLY TAILORED LEATHER JACKET STRODE INTO VIEW. LEATHER WAS A RECURRING THEME IN THIS COLLECTION;  MATTE AND PATENT, FROM DRESSES TO EVENING GLOVES.

Pierson cited her inspiration for the collection as 16th and 17th century anatomists, the frequently disturbing photography of Peter Joel Witkin, American artist Nan Goldin and the films of Kubrick and Cronenberg. As can be expected, this array of influences resulted in a seductive Victoriana look with more than a hint of the gothic and supernatural. Hair was piled high on the heads in a style not too dissimilar from Gary Oldman’s as Dracula in the 1992 film of the same name and pale skin was contrasted with black lips.

The majority of the collection was black on black. Interested was added through texture, including some incredible quilting detail leather items along with black velvet and flock print fabrics. The skin tight leather pencil skirt with fishtail detail was a stand out for me, along with the draping, metallic statement necklaces with offset the black perfectly. Although evidence of the historical influence was abundant, more modern details appeared in the towering black platform shows, statement jewellery  and the brooch adorned berets which were worn to one side of the head.

In the press release for the show, Pierson stated that she wanted to juxtapose restrained tailoring and freeform drape whilst flattering the female form. This was acheived in the mutton leg sleeves of high necked blouses tucked into rigid underbust corsets and in the dramatic, full length gathered skirts which exaggerated the hourglass shape and revealed some of the influences the designer has retained with her early work at Westwood and McQueen.

The collection was not without it’s flaws, however. An injection of colour came with the use of pale striped silk with, although skilfully draped, was unattractive and appeared cheap in contrast to the luxe leather pieces. At times Pierson strayed too far into the more sexual aspect of the look; skintight PVC and mesh crop tops with matching leggings looking tawdry rather than seductive but overall, the collection showed a real flair for drama and design.

Words Tamsin Worrad

The choice of soft satin helped to revitalise loosely tapered dresses, and comforting jersey fabrics created a contrast with more structured pieces. Beautiful feather accents added glamour. Waists were cinched in and patterns were kept to a minimum with just the simple addition of diamond stitching to some pieces. Removable organza and feather adornments were strapped to hips and satin covered buttons completed looks. Black velvet and leather helped to round off a complete collection of eveningwear and intricate beading combined with sheer fabric made the looks modestly sexy. The oversized shoulders and bright colour palette also had connotations of styles in the 80’s and was reminiscent of the power dressing era.

The feather detailing was replicated by the inclusion of chalky white flicks across each model’s eyelids. A few coloured streaks added to loose plaits mirrored Chandran’s vibrant colour palette and the combination of bright lips and pale skin created an eye grabbing contrast.

Words Zara Sparkes

FASHION DESIGNER ASHLEY ISHAM PRESENTED A BREATHTAKING A/W 2011/12 COLLECTION AT MERCER STUDIOS IN COVENT GARDEN.

Ashley’s collection ‘The Enchanted Forest’ is inspired by a fairy tale where in the moon-struck madness of the winter solstice, fairy creatures emerge from their slumber.

His collection started with models in emerald and deep sapphire floral dresses adorned with a crown of flowers reminiscent of an Imperial Court from a bygone oriental dynasty.

The catwalk continued with Greek-style evening gowns with a palette of pink, turquoise blue and forest green for women who want to feel feminine and powerful with a mysterious and provocative touch.

The final part offered a more futuristic approach with metallic grey dresses embellished with scale-like sequins, black beaded and winter woollen lace appliqué, creating a slick and dramatic look.

The result is an edgy and provocative collection, which is a darker extension of Isham’s earlier S/S 2011 floral theme ‘East of Eden’.

Celebrities such as Hofit Golan, Kimberly Walsh (both wearing Isham’s pieces), Paloma Faith and Camilla Rutherford attended the show.

Words Veronica Carpio Martin  Images Dan Harley

A NEVER ENDING QUEUE FROM THE ENTRANCE TO MERCER STREET STUDIOS-ON/OFF’S SHOW SPACE FOR AUTUMN/WINTER 2011-ONTO SHELTER STREET SAW THAT CHARLIE LE MINDU’S SHOW WAS BUZZ WORTHY FROM BEFORE IT BEGAN. OVERSUBSCRIBED LIKE A GAZILLION SHOWS THIS SEASON, MANY OF THOSE IN WAITING SADLY NEVER MADE IT INDOORS.

The lucky ones who did however, played witness to a frightful collection of Mister Le Mindu’s quite fantastic creations. The first look that strode onto the catwalk saw a naked model doused in fake blood, the word ‘violence’ atop her head. Huge Mohicans and gas masks with pony tails followed, alongside red and black graffiti covered capes, trousers and waistcoats. Transparent plastic and lace were both key fabrics, while white and cream were seen throughout the collection. Pearls played the part of adornment, trimming and hat fastening while footwear came in the form of white leather lace ups for the guys and shaggy fur boots for the girls. The final look of the fourteen was a creation made from lace and hair, with a blood dyed train falling from a lace eagle sitting on the model’s blonde wig.

Cleverly using virginal fabrics alongside bare breasts, forms of vandalism and crucifix‘s-made of tape and seen across the genital area-Le Mindu’s Autumn/Winter collection was a whole load of confliction, set to a soundtrack of squealing pigs. The ‘music’ together with an over spilling room simply added to the drama of the clothes, creating a feeling of claustrophobia and panic; quite the spectacle for all present.

Words Zoe Whitfield

FRENCH BORN BRYCE AIME HAS CREATED A HUGE BUZZ AROUND HIS WORK SINCE HIS DEBUT SHOW AT LONDON FASHION WEEK FOR S/S 2009 AND HIS WINTER 2011 COLLECTION WAS NO DIFFERENT, WITH AN EAGER QUEUE STRETCHING DOWN THE STREET OUTSIDE THE ON/OFF VENUE IN COVENT GARDEN BY THE TIME I ARRIVED.  ENTITLED ‘MILITARIUM’, THE CENTRAL ST MARTIN GRADUATE TOOK HIS INSPIRATION FOR THE COLLECTION FROM ‘THE MILITARISTIC FEATURES OF AN ARMY BARRACKS’. IN AN EXCITABLE, RAVE LIKE ATMOSPHERE COMPLETE WITH LED BACKDROP AND SWEEPING LASERS THE MODELS MARCHED ONTO STAGE LIKE MEMBERS OF A FUTURISTIC ARMY.

The military influence was obvious in the angular lines, rigid structures and geometric panelling, topped with highly stylised headgear in the form of Perspex helmets. Built up shoulders gave an exaggerated silhouette and the shades were an authoritarian mix of black, grey and white. Hair and make-up matched; coal black smudges over unnaturally pale skin, dark lips, dramatic eyes (including black contact lenses) and white blonde hair cut into asymmetric shapes.

The heavily structured tailoring of the collection was taken to the extreme with a 3D geometrically shaped flexiglass suit covering the whole of the model like some futuristic piece of armoury. These protruding shapes were mimicked in the accessories collection – a first for Aime – including panelled clutches and slim backpacks designed in collaboration with Bracher Emden. It’s not difficult to imagine Lady GaGa in these pieces (she’s apparently already a fan) – Aime’s work has already appeared in a Rhianna video.

It wasn’t all avant-garde extremism, however. Amongst the more conceptual pieces were some more ready to wear items, including structured & panelled black dresses with short, flared skirts. Retaining the military feel, capelets covered the shoulders mimicking epaulettes on an army uniform. Futuristic digital prints covered pale leggings and blouses and black chiffon skirts draped to the floor, contrasting with the structured tailoring and softening what could have been an overly harsh or androgynous look.

Words Tamsin Worrad

LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION PRESENTED AN EXTRAORDINARY CATWALK SHOW TO SHOWCASE THE IMPRESSIVE COLLECTIONS FROM 22 MA FASHION DESIGN AND TECHNOLOGY STUDENTS. THE FASHION AFFAIR TOOK PLACE IN THE STUNNING RAPHAEL GALLERY AT THE V&A MUSEUM. BFC CHAIRMAN HAROLD TILLMAN, CEO OF WHISTLES, JANE SEPHERDSON, CELEBRITIES SUCH AS JO WOODS, LULU GUINNESS, GRAYSON PERRY AND BUYERS, DIRECTORS AND PRESS WERE THERE TO DISCOVER THE NEW STARS OF THE FASHION WORLD.

Italian designer Matteo Molinari deservedly won and emotionally received The Collection of the Year Award for his beautiful menswear collection, where modern tailoring is fused with traditional craft and crochet. Jo Power, Mio Jin and Queenie Huang were also shortlisted for the prestigious award.

Shortlisted designer Jo Power opened the catwalk with a womenswear collection of clean lines and strong silhouettes which hid impressively the complex pattern cutting.

Her collection examines the parallels between space, time, perspective and spatial form. Jo has already worked with renowned emerging designers such as Peter Hornstein and Ostwald Helgeson and is looking to create her own label.

Collection of the Year winner Matteo Molinari showcased a collection inspired by his fascination for the small dots, lines and circles printed onto white paper that his family uses to create crochet lace. His sophisticated black and white designs mix Italian manufacture, Japanese fabrics and hand stitching and crochet creating a luxurious and desirable feel but also hugely emotional and personal.

Matteo’s collection will be available to order shortly and his line of sunglasses and glasses is already in the market.

Jia Ju’s immaculately tailored collection plays with androgyny, featuring women in tuxedos, tails and waistcoats in navy, grey and cream colours. Jia combines curves and straight lines, creating pieces that appear to be one when they are actually two and vice versa.

Jia would like work in London after graduation and sell her collection.

Fang Fang’s collection ‘The Paradox Circle’ is an examination about life being a circle, where birth signifies the beginning and death the end. In the process, Fang discovers the paradox and contradictions in life as there is no beginning without end and, therefore, the dualities of life (bad/good, truth/lie, life/death…) can’t exist without each other. Her high end menswear line showcases simple silhouettes, precision pattern cutting, fine manufacture and outstanding detailing.

After graduation, she would like to gain further work experience and set up her own business.

Thatwasin Boat Khajeenikorn’s collection ‘The Unsatisfied’ explores the never-ending human search for perfection through plastic surgery, deconstructing the basis of pattern shapes and creating a new silhouette in the form of ‘structure draping’.

Thatwasin inserts womenswear details such as embroideries and embellishments into his menswear collection to create different dimensions and perceptions.

Thatwasin worked as backstage stylist at Elle Fashion Week and Bangkok International Fashion Week from 2007 to 2009.

Susana Bettencourt’s womenswear collection was born by the need to outbrave grief to reach well-being and is inspired by the mourning traditions of African tribes where wounds are created in the skin to represent emotional injury and to help the person heal physically and psychologically. Susana has partnered with Factory Parrilus to create body shaping knitwear pieces made of lycra, viscose and wool. Her aim is to create garments that can be worn by different body shapes.

Susana would like to work for a strong label to further develop her skills.

Yan Liang’s menswear collection ‘Mixture’ analyzes the relation between malformations and deformed trees creating garments made from wood and raw materials that reminiscence Pinocchio. Yan’s designs are humorous and playful but also chic and elegant.

Yan wants to express his thoughts and lifestyle through fashion design.

Paul Beckett’s menswear collection “SPORNO” explores masculinity through the fetishisation of sportswear creating a ‘footballer chic’ look where sports-meets-fashion-meets-sophistication-meets-comfort. His running shorts and 90’s inspired shellsuits are made of luxurious nappa leather and stone washed silk. Paul uses hi-tech performance fabrics that repel water and U. V. rays and resist tearing.

Nicola Formichetti, the man responsible for Lady Gaga’s fashion invasion and the rebirth of Vogue Hommes Japan, and photographer Steven Klien shot his collection, giving Paul worldwide coverage.

Dinu Bodiciu presented a very innovative, creative and futuristic womenswear collection inspired by the thin boundary between illusion and reality. Dinu explores the effects of the mirror on our bodies, the way it turns 3-dimensional shapes into 2-dimensional, and plays with our perception, giving her collection a certain flatness of quality. Organic fabrics and pastel colours are combined with bright red in a collection that emphasizes the power-shoulders trend.

Dinu has already launched in Romania her own brand of hand-bags, 3RROR, and would like to collaborate with other fashion brands as well as continue working and promoting her own label.

Asger Larsen’s menswear collection ‘Uncle Sam’ is inspired by the fashion culture in North America in the 1860s during its civil war. Sharp and structured silhouettes in grey and dark colours reflect his ideas of gothic America. His designs are made of soft cashmere wool, Japanese denim and Nappa leather and the shoes and boots used to accessorize his collection are the result of a collaboration with British footwear brand Underground.

Asger has already showcased his work at London, Berlin and New York fashion weeks and been featured in publications such as Vogue Italy, 125 Magazine and Dazed Digital.

Shortlisted Queenie Huang’s menswear collection is about personal boundaries and combines silk jacquard with flat fabrics using the Tanaka technique. Queenie mixes modern art and traditional tailoring to express the feeling of protection and vulnerability. Her collection is inspired by Geometric shapes and Chinese philosophy creating a sophisticated look that plays with proportions and conventional garment shapes.

Tim Rhys-Evans gets inspired by Elizabethan dresses to create contemporary striking silhouettes that reflect a new take on female power dressing. Tim has used the ruff as starting point to highlight the focus on the upper body and eliminate the neck and shoulders from view. All the pieces from his collection are black and have been made using tactile and luxurious fabrics such as French Chantilly lace, silk chiffons, black fox fur and patent leather.

Tim BA’s collection was featured in Elle magazine and he would like to work for a luxury brand in Paris.

Yao Xiao focuses on the idea ‘Otaku’, a modern Japanese slang which means nerd, to create a fun and creative womenswear collection full of flowing dresses and draped jersey pieces in black, white, beige and pink colours. Yao has used plain fabrics made of natural materials to express softness and comfort but also to highlight the contrast between fabrics, crochet and knit textures.

Yao would like to work for a high end womenswear brand before starting her own business.

Shortlisted Mio Jin’s menswear collection is a reflection of her skills as a fine artist combining high tech and traditional tailoring fabrics. A palette of gold, purple and grey colours bring each outfit together through a clever construction of panels and colour. Mio has used silk screen printing to print her own drawings onto the t-shirts creating an elaborated show where the models stood for a while, took off their jackets and showed their underwear like in a saloon show.

Ongun Ulker’s menswear collection is inspired by the parallels between architecture, drawing and fashion. Suede and fur has been used in his designs to add texture and also linear panelling, both flat and 3D patterns, to create bold graphic effects. His collection is mainly made of wool, silk, cotton blend semi-transparent and structured organza but he has also used new techno fabrics (in his trench coats), fur and leather.

Fashion designers Nicholas Komor, Jennifer Morris, Marios Antoniou, Chang Wook ‘Jay’ Kang, Eunmi Hwang and Nam Young Kim also presented their MA collections.

Louise Simmonds closed the catwalk with a collection influenced by Imperial Russia and Faberge, a famous artist in that time. Most of her collection has been cut using a 45 degree angle, creating a classical triangular shape which became the basis for her silhouette. Striking long coats in opulent colours and luxurious fabrics were the main highlight in a collection which aspires to provoke desire and emotion.

Louise had the support of a team of high skilled masters from Copenhagen and Swarovski crystals to produce an elaborate collection, where some of her hand made pieces have taken weeks to create.

Louise’s collection will be available for sale and she is currently seeking to work for a luxury house.

Over 4,500 people worldwide logged onto the LFC website to watch the show streamed live and winner Matteo Molinari’s page was the most popular profile on Showtime, the new LFC talent portal.

Words Veronica Carpio Martin  Images Dan Harley

LEATHER SEEMS TO BE AN ONGOING TREND IN 2011-2012 AUTUMN/ WINTER COLLECTIONS AND LAKO BUKIA WAS NO DIFFERENT. STARRY EYED MAKE UP AND SMOULDERING LIPS GAVE AN EDGE OF SEXY SOPHISTICATION TO SEE US THROUGH THE WINTER MONTHS.

Every one of her collections has been highly anticipated and it is strikingly obvious why. Her beautiful use of chiffon drooping in between bullet cases strapped around the models bustier and used as military style belts, made the fierce models look like lady-killers on a mission.

And Bukia has not shied away from using a number of different tan leathers. Blacks, browns and maroons were seamlessly matched with fine soft hue shirts in pink and natural tones. Straps of leather cover the models dignity in a way that is elegant. Wear a chic shirt underneath and you have the makings of an unusual and urbane outfit.

She is a designer who is a lover of clean lines and perfect symmetry. Her tight maroon leather shorts and tailored shirts showcased powerful femininity that has been at the forefront of London Fashion Week.

Pretty angelic dresses with fish scale necklines were the epitome of the collection. With the slick plum lips and complicated plated hair, the overall look and styling of the show was eye catching. Every new look that came down the catwalk took my breath away. I wanted every piece on offer.

Lako Bukia AW11 full show from VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Words Jennifer Butler

TO ME LONDON FASHION WEEK IS ALL ABOUT SHOWING OFF AND BRINGING NEW IDEAS TO THE TABLE, EVEN IF THEY ARE NOT INSTANTLY WEARABLE. ZIAD GHANEM WAS A DESIGNER THAT I HAD TO SEE, AND WITH BOY GEORGE IN THE AUDIENCE YOU KNEW IT WAS GOING TO BE A STIMULATING SHOW.

Why the Freemasons Hall was used instead of the BFC Catwalk Show Space I cannot be sure. More space would of allowed this eccentric designer to show off even more of his pierced, tattooed and plus sized models.

Everyone in the audience was in good spirits even though it started an hour late, making it roughly 9pm by the time it began. It was intimate and friendly as people were getting ready for the last night of after show parties.

The show started with a winged gothic angel, with a black mouth like the joker from batman. Her large emerald green feathered fans swooped as she sashayed down the catwalk at 7ft tall on a wheeled contraption. The crowd applauded at not only quite an entrance, but the beauty of the black couture gown on display.

White make up with red stained tears and black smiles fitted with the Personal Jesus soundtrack and married couple who wouldn’t look out of place in a Tim Burton film. Full bosomed women and cross dressing men set foot on the catwalk.

A beautiful floor length black and brown dress with a white eagle printed on the front was the most wearable piece of the show. But this show wasn’t always about being practical.

Pretty veiled dresses in light greys, whites and lilacs with veils slipped over the models faces would be perfect for the more elaborate wedding. Every inch was luxury and excess. Embroidered bodices and Asian printed capes, large feathered headwear and lace gowns filled the small venue. Every piece was assembled and fitted perfectly on a number of shapely models. It was enough to make the mouth water in excitement for the collection.

Ziad Ghanem AW11 edit from VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Words Jennifer Butler  Images Christopher Day

HELD IN THE STUNNING VESTIBULE AT THE FREEMASON’S HALL, THE MOMENT YOU WALKED THROUGH THE DOORS YOU WERE WELCOMED TO A COUPLE OF SCANTILY CLAD MEN ON WHITE PILLARS. WEARING NOTHING BUT A THIN LINEN CLOTH, THE BRIGHT LIGHTS LEFT NOTHING TO THE IMAGINATION. THANK GOODNESS THEN THAT AFTERWARDS YOU COULD GO AND TAKE PICTURES OF THESE MEN, THAT MY EVER A WALLFLOWER FRIEND KINDLY TOLD ME WERE CALLED SEBASTIAN AND BACH. ONCE THE AUDIENCE HAD FINISHED STARING AT THESE OILED UP ADONIS’S, WHICH SEEMED LIKE A LIFE TIME AS THE MODELS GOT READY, THE SHOW BEGAN.

One of the more unusual but refreshing catwalks I have been to, ‘Martyr’ used a plethora of multi-ethnic models and hijab covered faces. Frayed denim dresses and white splashed printed black dresses gave the show an edgy look. White toga inspired ethereal lace dresses swept along the room, winding in and out if the statuesque male plinths.

Thin printed yellow and beige see though printed tops matched with sequin detailed skirts and frayed strips of leather showed off a powerful and romantic look that Jacob Kimmie is famous for.

Red paint was sprayed over a few models and black cords of leather covered the faces of others. His work is driven by injustice and anger and this was very apparent in his collection.  The Masonic artwork in the hall and heavy art deco doors that divided the two separate audience seating spaces made you feel trapped and claustrophobic, just like the collection itself.

Jacob Kimmie AW11 full show from VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Words and images Jennifer Butler

With an upbeat track and sparse pillars and corridors in the background, one could be mistaken for thinking they had entered a nightmarish warehouse rave. The clothes were fresh and beautiful, bold asymmetrical prints and figure hugging silhouettes. The first model to grace the catwalk did so with a large circular head piece. With the light shining past her, you couldn’t help but feel an air of excitement to see the rest of the smouldering collection. Not only a collection for the ladies of any shape, but also one that would please the men.

The dress that got the collective nod of many in the audience was an ankle length purple printed skin tight dress. The print faded out as it went past the waistline, which would help draw attention away from the stomach and hips, a very clever effect to have on a dress and one that the entranced audience all smiled at.

There was also a scorching cut out leather mini dress which every woman needs to have in their wardrobe in some form.

Detailed wedges finished off the outfits with a sprinkling of feathers, rock chick spikes and gold chains.

Words and images Jennifer Butler

FOR AUTUMN/WINTER ’11, ALL FOUR DESIGNERS CHOSEN TO SHOW AT THE VAUXHALL’S FASHION SCOUT WOMEN’S ONES TO WATCH SHOW ALL SHARED SIMILAR THEMES OF CONCENTRATING ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF GARMENTS, THE PARODY OF MATERIALS, COLOUR AND THE CONTRAST BETWEEN FEMININITY AND MASCULINITY.

Kirsty Ward opened the show with an infusion of whites and creams contrasted with black and gold whilst oriental music was played. The collection consisted of soft sheer against bold pieces such as belts and black chunky heels. Each garment was completed with the jewellery designer’s statement necklaces and chains that were adorned with metallic embellishments, improvised as the model’s body armour. The look resembled the tribal trend. The architectural inspired collection saw billowing silhouettes teamed with cut out trousers, displaying a contrast between the soft aesthetic of femininity and the tough manner of masculinity. This was also emphasised in Ward’s final pieces; a delicate sheer dress worn with an open back felt coat. Overall, the collection was experimental yet powerful.

Secondly, Anja Mlakar’s designs nailed another key trend for fall ’11 by creating a collection abiding by a soft pastel colour palette that contrasted with black hemlines. The designer was clearly inspired by architecture and the future with her structural dresses with box shoulders and hourglass bottoms. Panelled tops and sliced cut out trousers also reflected her architectural thinking yet displayed her attention to detail and the exhibition of garment construction. The collection was somewhat minimalistic that paraded sophistication and elegance, yet Mlakar’s structural silhouettes empowered models that argued otherwise.

Tze Goh carried the minimalism trend through into A/W 11 with a collection of block colours in grey hues and royal blue. The designer has created a contemporary collection of dresses, jackets and trousers. It was refreshing to see the use of soft silhouettes that emphasised the focus on the construction of a garment opposed to its decoration. The collection heavily featured felt and mohair that gave the impression that dresses and jackets had been moulded to fit the models perfectly. It was this dramatic concept that brought originality and authenticity to the designer’s range and reflected Tze Goh’s innovative ability to manipulate classic materials with forward thinking design.

Finally, Sara Bro- Jorgensen demonstrated her textile background by creating a haunting collection decorated with beading, fringing and crochet. Yet again, the empowering trend of contrasting materials and colours was used, with models wearing thick heavy black and cream string knits over sheer black dresses and blue washed trousers, also playing with the juxtaposition idea of femininity in soft sheer fabrics against the masculinity of heavy materials. The collection was definitely daring and dark with models dominating the catwalk in black hoods and balaclavas enlightened with a punk rock music being played in the background. Her creativity was expressed through her ability to combine the traditional with the modern, playing with texture and innovative design. This was clearly stated in the collection’s most striking pieces where images of sketched suit toils were printed onto jersey tops and dresses that added a new dimension to the garment. Sara Bro- Jorgensen has certainly proven herself as a strong one to watch designer after presenting her A/W 11 collection at Fashion Scout.

Words Abigail Phillips

AT THE TENDER AGE OF 24, MICHAEL KAMPE IS MAKING A SPLASH IN THE FASHION WORLD. HIS EXPLOSIONS OF LARGE PRINTS, TREATED DENIM AND 3D STRUCTURES HAVE IMPRESSED THE LIKES OF DIESEL. JENNIFER BUTLER SPOKE TO THE YOUNG GERMAN DESIGNER ABOUT MAKING AVANT-GARDE WEARABLE AND PUSHING THE BOUNDARY OF MENSWEAR.

What made you want to become a designer? In particular why did you choose menswear?

In my youth I wanted to become a cook, but since I sketched my first designs by the age of 18, I was fascinated. I then taught myself tailoring without any books or teachers and only by ‘reading’ clothes. When I felt that my 2D ideas could become alive in 3D, I knew at that moment that this was what I wanted to do.

I make most of the clothes I wear myself because the feedback you get from a person you might not even know is the best you can get. To focus then later on Menswear came very naturally.

I am designing for Women as well, but Menswear always inspires me because of its rules and clearness of construction.

Functionality, urban wear and uniforms together with a cool, masculine image of a man inspire my work. Especially in Avant-garde, you rarely encounter good menswear. The type of man I am designing for should never appear ‘goofy’ even though some of my designs are not ‘wearable’.

Who are your clothes designed for?

My philosophy is to show new directions in Urban and denim wear far from mass market production, focussed on an individual, single piece.

To achieve this, I developed a unique production technique, ranging from deconstructing classical pattern to mixing different materials, all-over digital printing and a modern art influenced patchwork construction of garments.

To offer a unique product, the pieces are completely hand-made with individual treatment. This means that my clothes are directed towards customers who are more collectors than consumers.

Do you feel living in Berlin has influenced you designing?

Berlin has always been my biggest inspiration. When I find the time I am doing trips around the city, walking from galleries to Museums and Libraries and visiting small concerts in cosy basement clubs, which are a great influence.

Why did you choose to use large bold prints and 3D?

The contrast between the movement in the prints and the clean constructed lines of the 3D elements is very interesting to me. Also, the opportunity I had was to work them in a massive way all over the body, the sleeves, back, hood, even inside the jackets. I enjoy reconstructing classic silhouettes.

Why did you choose to use denim?

It`s a fabric that gives you so much opportunities to work with. You can be rough with it like with a very heavy one for work wear or sensible with a thin one for girls.

Jeans are something many run from screaming because has become so normal, but for me, reinterpreting the normal in an avant-gardistic way is the real challenge.

Your menswear is quite fresh and edgy; do you think your youthful approach helped you get the Diesel Prize?

Yes, because my intention in creating the latest collection was much more about showing my new directions than wearable pieces, especially in menswear.

It is important for me that if you would reduce the showy elements in some pieces, for example reducing the foam in the parka, sticks around the coat; blocks off the jacket, they become interesting wearable garments. Otherwise they would be costumes and this is not what I want to create. The reference to wearable pieces has to be obvious, but not too easy to identify.

You are quite a young designer. What has been the highlight of your career so far?

Being trained in Antwerp was very intense and the International appreciation for my work is a wonderful reward.

What plans do you have for the future?

I want to keep on working in a team for a brand and gain experience for my own label there as well. Besides I will keep on working on my own label ‘MICHAEL KAMPE’.

Words Jennifer Butler

MAHOGANY EVENTS IN ASSOCIATION WITH FASHION’S FINEST HELD A FASHION SHOW AT JEWEL COVENT GARDEN TO SHOWCASE THE SPRING/SUMMER COLLECTIONS OF EMERGING AND ESTABLISHED FASHION DESIGNERS.

AAMAA couture opened the show with a stunning collection called ‘Amazonian’, inspired by globalisation, where traditional and contemporary African fabrics are combined with western influences to create a ‘worldwide’ look. AAMAA couture was established in 2009 by designer Toyosi Mobereola. She commented: “my label aims to mix different cultures together to create a unique and stylish Afro-centric look”.

The highlights of her collection were an electric blue square shoulder dress with African prints, a high-waisted trouser with black and white prints and a red tank top, a bright red puffy jacket with a thin black belt and leggings and a stunning beige hoodie with print details and a matching long skirt.

The next collection was by the label Bobafrique, who showcased edgy, trendy yet wearable pieces for a man who thinks ‘out-of-the-box’ and aspires to be stylish and unique. His designer, Bobby Egbele is influenced by Vivienne Westwood creating pieces which emphasizes beauty and cultural diversity. His spring/summer collection was full of bows which added a playful tone to his t-shirts. Other key pieces were a matching waistcoat and trousers with tribal patterns and a white shirt with blue prints and metallic details.

The show continued with the performance of Ololade Bhadmus whose neo-soul songs entertained the audience.

Tina Lobondi presented a very feminine and sophisticated collection for women who want to feel sexy but also elegant. Blue and its different tones were the predominant colour in a collection full of smart evening dresses. The main highlights were a vaporous electric blue dress with African prints and a black v neck dress with long sleeves finished with light blue leather which was complemented with a turquoise bag, hand-made with cow skin and the finest Italian leather, by Mucca Pazza. Interior designer Gabriele Ruetz-Razetti is the creative director of this luxury house which also produces accessories and furniture. Mucca Pazza means “mad cow” and his innovative, quirky and aspirational designs have already been seen in celebrities such as Tara Reid.

Poet Dele Osunsami dazzled the audience with two beautiful poems from his first book Poetry Speaks for Itself.

Label Me Clothing showcased a collection inspired by music, popular culture and American colleges for girls and boys who want to stand out from the crowd. The label is the creation of Adam Benjamin and business partner Jordan Williams who launched their first collection online on February 2010. Me Clothing’s slogan “It’s all about me” is highlighted in bright colours in hoodies, jackets and t-shirts.

The pieces are all about emphasizing individuality, confidence, attitude and personality achieving a ‘cool kid-next-door’ kind of look.

The final collection was by Kamondi Couture, which specializes in women’s tailoring. The label is the creation of fashion designers Sonia Ygo and Emma Mohamed. Their signature look is suits made of silk with African cotton prints for classy women who want to feel fabulous. The collection’s key pieces were an elegant beige dress with sequels, a very 70’s retro shirt with floral prints combined with wide trousers and a white silk shirt with floral details and short trouses which gave an original twist to the office look.

Fashion’s Finest Renaissance fashion show was presented in a very intimate and relaxed atmosphere which gave the opportunity to fully enjoy the different fashion collections and do a little networking. A successful and enjoyable show in every sense.

Words Verónica Carpio Martin  Images Dan Harley

JERSEY HAS A REPUTATION FOR BEING JUST A COMFORTABLE FABRIC FOR DAYWEAR AND HOLIDAYS. UK DESIGNER DUO NANCY DEE IS CHANGING ALL THAT WITH HER FIGURE-HUGGING, 50S-INSPIRED PIECES.

Sister Tamsin and Seraphina launched Nancy Dee in 2008. Environment-aware and silhouette-flattering, their retro-inspire creations reinvent the easy-to-wear jersey dress. Jennifer Butler caught up with Tamsin to talk Dracula, ethical clothing and the introduction of trousers in the collection.

How did your upbringing help you develop a passion for fashion?

When we were really young, we used to make clothes for our dolls using scraps of old fabric and our Mum’s sewing machine – it was far more interesting styling our dolls than actually playing with them! We were both obsessed by Bram Stoker’s Dracula and I recreated the red dress Winona Ryder wears in the film for the dolls. Seraphina also used the film for her dissertation examining the symbolic use of costume in film.

At secondary school, I started making my own clothes because no one on the high street at that time made clothes long enough for girls over 6 foot! Seraphina, being young enough not to recognise my fashion disasters, was apparently inspired by the crazy things I used to make, and more embarrassingly, wear.

How have your travels influenced the clothes you make?

For me, it was more about using social and trade policies to improve the welfare in developing countries, building upon what I had learned from my second degree. Seeing at firsthand the extreme poverty and hand-to-mouth existence in many parts of Asia forced me to look at how our industries directly impacted upon others, and also how they can be used to lift people out of poverty, for example, as the fairtrade movement is aiming to do.

What made you decide to go into ethical fashion?

It was less of a decision to go “ethical” and more about just wanting to do it “right”. Seraphina wanted to turn her designs into a business, and I joined forces with her to launch Nancy Dee in 2008. We were adamant right from the start that if we were to bring another clothing label into this world, it had to have minimal negative impact, socially and environmentally. It does make everything that much harder and expensive, but it was a moral decision for us, we just wanted to do things properly. We’ve still got some way to go in improving our environmental footprint, but we are working on it.

What is next for the Nancy Dee line and where would you like to see it go in the future?

We are introducing separates for the first time for spring/summer 2011. We’ve had an amazing response from boutiques looking to buy our jersey trousers. We will expand our range of fabrics to include modal, linen and silk.

We’re concerned by the air miles used to transport clothes from Asia to Europe, so we are looking into moving part of our production back here to a lovely little factory in the Midlands. It will always have to be a compromise, because production is cheaper in India and allows us to sell ethical clothes at the prices we do, but we want to bring some of it back to the areas here in the UK that used to have a thriving clothing manufacture industry before it became so easy to get everything made in China.

Tell us about where your clothing comes from?

The pieces are currently manufactured in India, by a family-run factory with SA 8000:2001 certification from Social Accountability, as well as certification from Fairtrade Labelling Organisation (FLO). Although the FLO status relates only to 100% cotton products, it is a very good benchmark for us, as it is the same workers that sew our clothes as make the FLO certified pieces.

The fabric comes from India, and we use a range of sustainable jerseys, from organic cotton to modal to soya bean. The autumn/winter 2010 collection was all made from a super soft blend of bamboo, organic cotton and elastane for stretch.

Why did you decide to use Jersey?

Seraphina prefers to design in jersey. At the time we launched, no one else was specialising in jersey. It is still quite hard to find retro prints like ours on jersey fabrics. Also, jersey has a great versatility about it – people think it’s really casual, but we’re trying to prove that it can also be worn in the office, at a party or on holiday.

Who wears your clothing?

Our customer age range is really wide – some of the pieces appeal to younger women because they are short or a bit clingy, but we’ve had feedback from Equa in London that they’ve had women of 50-plus in buying our pieces!

Seraphina designs with two hats on and tries to create something for everyone. A lot of women are scared of jersey and think it’s always clingy or tight, but her designs try to introduce clever pleating here and there to flatter the figure, sleeves to hide arm-worries or clever positioning of sash bow ties to distract from tummies.

It appeals to quite a wide range of women because they are such easy styles to wear, and you can really make them your own with jewellery or accessories.

www.nancydee.co.uk

Words Jennifer Butler

AFTER SPENDING THE FIRST TEN MINUTES OF THE NEW YEAR STUCK INSIDE THE TUBE EATING 12 GRAPES (FOLLOWING THE SPANISH TRADITION WHICH GIVES YOU LUCK FOR THE YEAR AHEAD), I HEADED TO THE GLAMOROUS PARTY AT IL BOTTACCIO MANSIONS TO START 2011 IN ROCK STAR STYLE!

Located in Belgravia, Il Bottaccio is an opulent and elegant venue frequently used to host exclusive events, press launches and photo shoots.

Around 300 people in evening gowns and glam rock customs celebrated the beginning of the New Year taking inspiration from their favourite pop stars (Lady Gaga, Christina Aguilera, Michael Jackson…)

Paul Wiffen’s band Fire in the South entertained the crowd with a special New Year set of songs, including Pink Floyd standards. Fire in the South is an up-and-coming band that have already been named as “the natural successors to the classic rock crown” by several specialist music magazines.

The first night of 2011 continued with DJ Colin Star Rocker, who made all the guests party like rock stars!

The event was hosted by Richard Austin Rees, dressed up as Adam Ant, who made sure drinks were flowing and everyone was having a good time, in association and partnership with The Button Club.

A glamorous night full of champagne, grapes, cakes, dancing, beautiful people and wannabe stars.

My first New Year resolution is to continue the rock & roll lifestyle!

Words Veronica Carpio Martin  Images Dan Harley

INSPIRED BY SOUTH AMERICAN COLOURS, FASHION GRADUATE STEPHANIE GOYNES IS REDEFINING OUR VISION OF KNITWEAR. JENNIFER BUTLER MET WITH THE DESIGNER WITH JACQUARD ON HER MIND.

Stephanie Goynes has just finished a degree at the London School of Fashion but she has already made a statement with her eye popping knits. Her Aztec styles and rainbow colours are a far cry from grandma’s fleecy number and bring the classic cardi into the 21^st century.

A whole outfit made from knitwear is a daring statement, but the South American-inspired colours and textures help make every garment look different and fresh.

“I used Native American Basketry, with the idea of converting traditional weaving techniques into knitwear. The vibrant patterns formed in the weaving process inspired the Jacquard designs, and the surface texture of baskets themselves some of the other pieces. I wanted to transform the historical basketry of Native America into knitwear -challenging weave to combine with knit,” explained the Goynes.

So why choose to do knitwear? It is not the sexiest of materials and maybe not one that you would see filling a whole collection on the catwalk?

“I fell into knitwear finding it was a fantastic way of satisfying my mathematical and technical approach to a creative trait. I love to pick colour and texture in yarn form then develop my fabric from there. I’ve always been textile orientated and knitwear allows that to play a major role in designing.”

Her love of knitwear is more than apparent, having done work experience with knitwear specialist Sibling of London and Eley Kishimoto.

At the moment there are no plans to develop her own brand but to have a bit of time after the great wealth of knowledge she was taught at LSF.

“In the future I hope to do some freelance work or settle into a company with a creative team I feel at home with, my own stuff will be taking a back seat for now. I’ve received some really flattering feedback, been in contact with a few companies and had a couple of interviews but I’ll wait and see!” said Goynes.

Sadly her last collection was only one offs, but she has done some special commissions and at AGENT2, we are tempted to add ourselves to the list to get a cardigan for the cold winter months ahead.

Words Jennifer Butler