RAUN LAROSE INTERVIEW

IT IS ALWAYS DIFFICULT AS A MENSWEAR DESIGNER TO PUSH THE BOUNDARIES AND OPEN NEW AVENUES, BUT BROOKLYN BASED RAUN LAROSE HAS SMARTENED UP TO TAKE ON THE COMPETITION. JENNIFER BUTLER OF AGENT2 MAGAZINE SPOKE TO THE LAROSE ABOUT HIS LOVE OF ARCHITECTURE AND WHAT MADE HIM GO INTO MENSWEAR.

There is a lot of black and white and symmetry in your collection.  How has being bought up in New York and living there influenced your designs?

Black and white will always be a timeless classic. For my collection, less is definitely more. Growing up in New York has definitely influenced my work and my perception on Fashion. My main reason for pursuing menswear was because I lost interest in what the market had to offer.

What other aspects have influenced your designs?

I have a huge love for architecture. I always try to incorporate architectural influences in my collections. The more I develop as a designer the more I see myself becoming obsessed with shapes and trying to figure out ways to create new silhouettes.

What made you get into designing clothes, in particular menswear?

I have always had a major love for fashion since I was a little boy. My mum was a seamstress. I used to observe her and how much time and effort she put into her work. I always knew I wanted to pursue a career in fashion, but it wasn’t until age 21 that I knew I wanted to pursue a career in menswear. My main reason for pursuing menswear was because I lost interest in what the market had to offer.

What kind of image are you trying to create with this collection? Who wears your clothes?

I am really not concerned with building an image for my collections. I design clothes for the individual who is seeking a change.

You use a lot of different textures and materials in your work. What made you choose to do this in your collection?

I always like to incorporate an element of unexpectedness in my designs. The inspiration behind my current collection came from a book I had read entitled “Time Traveller” by Dr Donald Mallet. I used a lot of high quality fabrics (boucle, wools, cotton poplins) as well as a few unexpected (Neoprene, Foam, Swarovski crystals, Organza). I’m all for showcasing people in a new way.

An element of your collection that sticks out to me is that many of your jumpers and under garments fall below the knee, with tight leggings underneath. Tell me about your decisions when designing?

Whenever I start the creative process for a collection I usually isolate myself for a few months and focus on what it is exactly that I want to convey. For fall I was inspired by Dr Mallets and I was fascinated by the author’s vision of creating a time machine that could visit both past and future. After reading the book I formed this character in my mind, the young man who is a risk taker and wants to lead his generation into the future that is before us. Although he sometimes looks to the past his mind is focused on the future and what it has in store.

What is next for you? How would you like to progress?

I’m preparing to debut my Summer/Spring 2012 collection in Amsterdam during International Fashion Week. As for progression I hope to start selling my collections as well as be granted more opportunities to showcase my work to the public.

Interview Jennifer Butler

VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT | MEN ONES TO WATCH

VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT PRESENTED THE A/W ‘11/12 MENSWEAR COLLECTION SHOWCASE ONES TO WATCH MEN ON DAY 6, MENSWEAR DAY OF LONDON FASHION WEEK.

C/Bruerberg

Camilla Bruerberg, the designer behind the label C/Bruerberg took her inspiration from evolution and traditional craft, focusing on a combination of digital print and Knit. She opened with a focus on sheer knitted pieces including horizontal banding and crochet.

The perceptible traditional craft focus came with the scarves made up of threaded, frayed wool in bright orange, green and mustard. Many of the knitted pieces included horizontal banding with sheer inserts. A deviation from knit and crochet came with an oversized structured, print t-shirt.

A.Hallucination

A.Hallucination’s traditional deep toned winter pallet was a collection based around a reworked classic; the suit. A modern twist was established with the introduction of exaggerated detailing: large and numerous pockets, belts and toggles.  The Macs, trenches and coats were often two tone blocks of materials such as browns and blues and maroon trousers kept in line with the winter pallet. Jumpers were finished with in-built snood necklines which would serve as a practical winter warmer.

A white bowtie teamed with a white shirt was a classic touch of tailoring for A.Hallucination.

Mr Lipop

Mr Lipop’s stand out concept was incorporating accessories into the clothes. Hoods were zipped onto rucksacks in deep shades of purple and black. Jumpers featured inbuilt gloves hanging from the sleeves, showcasing the label’s flare for ingenuity and practicality. The addition of black and white fur to the hoods gave pulled the collection into the cold mid-winter.

A stand out piece was a French resistance inspired leather trench coat, styled with a black beret and polo neck. A shimmering navy jacket, brown and suede tunic suit showcased the wearability of Mr Lipop’s pieces and the inclusion of an oversized shearling aviator jacket, made sure that the men weren’t to miss out on one of this season’s big trends.

Asger Juel Larsen

With a lace-up, corset style outfit, models costumed like pall-bearers and the prevalence of black and metal spike, there was evidently a gothic vibe going throughout the Asger Juel Larsen collection. A model styled to look like Marilyn Manson and the addition of a cruxifix to a top-hat continued this dark theme.  Larson also looked to America for inspiration sending American flag worn as a cape – in muted black, brown and navy – cowboy chaps, and leather briefs down the runway.

Words Almaz Ohene

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: SAVAGE BEAUTY

NEXT MONTH THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART IN NEW YORK IS TO HOST ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: SAVAGE BEAUTY, CELEBRATING THE LATE DESIGNER’S EXTRAORDINARY CONTRIBUTION TO FASHION. THE LANDMARK EXHIBITION WILL CHART MCQUEEN’S 19-YEAR RISE FROM ENFANT TERRIBLE TO ONE OF THE LEADING DESIGNERS OF OUR TIME.

Curator Andrew Bolton, working in conjunction with Sam Gainsbury and Joseph Bennett, the production designers responsible for McQueen’s extravagant fashion shows, has organized the exhibition thematically, in keeping with recurring concepts inherent within the designer’s work. “His fashions were an outlet for his emotions”, Bolton explained, “an expression of the deepest, often darkest, aspects of his imagination. He was a true romantic in the Byronic sense of the word – he channeled the sublime.” Rooms, including ‘Romantic Gothic’ and ‘The Savage Mind’, will delve deep into McQueen’s characters, and his obsession with Romantic literary traditions.

The exhibition, which will be held in the second-floor Cantor galleries, will feature approximately 100 pieces designed by McQueen. Signature designs, including McQueen’s iconic bumster trouser, will be on display. Taken primarily from the McQueen archive in London, the exhibition will be supported by garments from the Givenchy archive and private collections. Pieces from longtime collaborators milliner Philip Treacy and jeweler Shaun Leane will also be on display.

The exhibition launch will coincide with the Met’s Costume Institute Gala Benefit, with Honorary Chairs François-Henri Pinault and Salma Hayek, a fitting nod to the theatricality that characterized the designer. Thomas P.Campbell, Director of the Museum commented, “Alexander McQueen’s iconic designs constitute the work of an artist whose medium of expression was fashion. This landmark exhibition continues the Museum’s tradition of celebrating designers who changed the course of history and culture by creating new possibilities.”

From 4 May – 31 July 2011

www.metmuseum.org

Words Graham Gartside Bernier

ONES 2 WATCH: FLIK HALL

IN A WAREHOUSE SOMEWHERE IN HACKNEY, JENNY BUTLER WENT TO CHAT TO THE LATEST STUDENT OF CENTRAL SAINT MARTIN’S TO MAKE HER NAME AS AN UP AND COMING DESIGNER.  FLIK HALL SPOKE TO ME ABOUT HER LOVE OF PRINTS, SHARP SILHOUETTES AND THE OCCASIONAL DOLLS ARM.

From doing her foundation course in Fashion Print at Central Saint Martin’s this young designer interned with house of Holland and Giles. “Originally I wanted to be a fine artist. I enjoyed painting the body, making collages and putting textiles on mannequins. I realised at 17 or 18 that I wanted to pursue a career in fashion design”

Flik’s mother was a jewellery collector which gave her an early start at seeing how fashion changes over time. “The shape of the jewellery use to interest me and how it could be made into clothes. I like the idea that my clothes have texture, different tones and interesting shapes.”

The dolls arm necklace from her Spring/ Summer 2011 Mannequin Parade collection has been the talking point of Flik’s work. “I realise how lucky I am to live in London. You can wear whatever you want here and everyone here wants to experiment. In Paris the dolls limbs were seen as being a little odd. That wasn’t the case in London.”

Her idea stemmed from looking at alters in Mexico. “There was a jumble of toys on the Mexican alters and the colours were all very watered down. There were no dramatic tones and this interested me. Hessian was also a big part of their culture so I decided to incorporate this into my collection.”

Her new collection, which is still in its early days, is a lot darker then her previous collection. It still integrates a number of fabrics together to create an almost futuristic look. The shiny and matt contrast, silk and wool, and metallic leathers shows a designer who is very sure of her direction.

“I had been reading a lot of philosophy and I felt very dark. I asked myself ‘do we really have free will, and what would happen if we don’t?’ One of the dresses prints comes from me looking down at houses in London from a bird’s eye view. I wanted to look at who was in control, are there other driving forces, things that we can’t control that are already laid out for us?”

Her latest signing to Blow PR will mean we see a lot more of this young designer. Her next step will be London Fashion Week, but she has been given the luxury from her PR company to develop her line and experiment.

Words Jennifer Butler

 

VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT: GEORGIA HARDINGE

GEORGIA HARDINGE WAS REPRESENTING THE MERIT AWARD THIS SEASON AND SHE DID NOT FAIL TO DISAPPOINT. SHE TOOK HER INSPIRATION FROM THE UNORTHODOX, MACABRE PHOTOGRAPHY OF JOEL PETER WITKIN, COMBINING THE CONCEPTS OF DEATH, DESTRUCTION, MUTATION AND DISFIGURATION WITH THOSE OF THE ANATOMY.

Her AW11 ‘Spined’ collection appeared to be shown to press and buyers through a visual journey. By starting the show with darker pieces and concluding with nude, ivory and cream elements, a carefully chosen running order was evident and a pleasant viewing was had by all.

The show opened with a fast pace and an up-tempo beat to which Hardinge showed the darker end of collection. Dense black overcoats and structural pencil skirts were coupled with longer length sheer shirts and graphically printed imagery, helping to embody Georgia’s many layers of inspiration. The use of leather and the addition of appliqued ‘spines’ finished each look and helped to toughen up her beautifully constructed silhouettes.

The up tempo music was then slowly replaced with peaceful, operatic and calming tones helping to represent the neutral and concluding end of her colour palette. Structural jackets and heavy-duty wool capes were followed by knee length dresses, to which the addition of ‘spinal’ accents, were still evident.

Words Zara Sparkes

 

ON | OFF: LOUSIE AMSTRUP

FASHION DESIGNER LOUISE AMSTRUP PRESENTED A REBELLIOUS AND ‘POLITICALLY INCORRECT’ COLLECTION, DRAWING ON AMERICAN YOUTH REVOLUTION THROUGH THE LAST CENTURY, AT MERCER STUDIOS IN COVENT GARDEN, LONDON.

Amstrup’s collection ‘Born bad’ gets her inspiration from the great female rebels of the world, such as the character of Mallory Knox in Natural Born Killers and the iconic actress and real-life radical Juliette Lewis, the power muse for the collection.

Patent leather is the main fabric and is used as a religious symbol to highlight the rebellious and unconformist connotations of the collection. The colour palette is mainly black and grey mixed with brighter shades such as lime green, which creates a serious but, at the same time, playful effect.

The key pieces were a patent leather dress with wool, a dirty plum merino dress made of silk and patent leather, a Kopenhagen fur shaved mink coat and oversized and elongated blazers.

The result is a striking collection which draws on the power of the female silhouette for a strong, confident and revolutionary woman who wants to express her rebelliousness and denunciate the conformist ways of the political system.

Louise Amstrup worked for Alexander McQueen before launching her own label in 2008. She won the On/Off Visionary Award in 2010.

Words Verónica Carpio Martín

 

ON|OFF: JAYNE PIERSON

‘KINGDOM OF SHADOWS’ WAS WELSH DESIGNER JAYNE PIERSON’S FOURTH SEASON AT LONDON FASHION WEEK, HAVING DEBUTED HER FIRST COLLECTION IN SEPTEMBER 2009. BLACK AND WHITE IMAGES PROJECTED ON THE LED DISPLAY AT THE FOOT OF THE ON/OFF CATWALK AS THE SHOW BEGAN AND A MODEL IN A BEAUTIFULLY TAILORED LEATHER JACKET STRODE INTO VIEW. LEATHER WAS A RECURRING THEME IN THIS COLLECTION;  MATTE AND PATENT, FROM DRESSES TO EVENING GLOVES.

Pierson cited her inspiration for the collection as 16th and 17th century anatomists, the frequently disturbing photography of Peter Joel Witkin, American artist Nan Goldin and the films of Kubrick and Cronenberg. As can be expected, this array of influences resulted in a seductive Victoriana look with more than a hint of the gothic and supernatural. Hair was piled high on the heads in a style not too dissimilar from Gary Oldman’s as Dracula in the 1992 film of the same name and pale skin was contrasted with black lips.

The majority of the collection was black on black. Interested was added through texture, including some incredible quilting detail leather items along with black velvet and flock print fabrics. The skin tight leather pencil skirt with fishtail detail was a stand out for me, along with the draping, metallic statement necklaces with offset the black perfectly. Although evidence of the historical influence was abundant, more modern details appeared in the towering black platform shows, statement jewellery  and the brooch adorned berets which were worn to one side of the head.

In the press release for the show, Pierson stated that she wanted to juxtapose restrained tailoring and freeform drape whilst flattering the female form. This was acheived in the mutton leg sleeves of high necked blouses tucked into rigid underbust corsets and in the dramatic, full length gathered skirts which exaggerated the hourglass shape and revealed some of the influences the designer has retained with her early work at Westwood and McQueen.

The collection was not without it’s flaws, however. An injection of colour came with the use of pale striped silk with, although skilfully draped, was unattractive and appeared cheap in contrast to the luxe leather pieces. At times Pierson strayed too far into the more sexual aspect of the look; skintight PVC and mesh crop tops with matching leggings looking tawdry rather than seductive but overall, the collection showed a real flair for drama and design.

Words Tamsin Worrad

 

BERNARD CHANDRAN

BERNARD CHANDRAN’S COLLECTION WAS AN ARRAY OF BEAUTIFUL COLOURS, WHICH CERTAINLY HELPED TO BRIGHTEN UP A TYPICAL, RAINY DAY IN LONDON. HIS COLOUR PALETTE RANGED FROM SUMPTUOUS PINKS, REDS AND ORANGES TO EXQUISITE JEWEL TONES OF JADE GREEN, PURPLE, PETROL BLUE AND BLACK.

The choice of soft satin helped to revitalise loosely tapered dresses, and comforting jersey fabrics created a contrast with more structured pieces. Beautiful feather accents added glamour. Waists were cinched in and patterns were kept to a minimum with just the simple addition of diamond stitching to some pieces. Removable organza and feather adornments were strapped to hips and satin covered buttons completed looks. Black velvet and leather helped to round off a complete collection of eveningwear and intricate beading combined with sheer fabric made the looks modestly sexy. The oversized shoulders and bright colour palette also had connotations of styles in the 80’s and was reminiscent of the power dressing era.

The feather detailing was replicated by the inclusion of chalky white flicks across each model’s eyelids. A few coloured streaks added to loose plaits mirrored Chandran’s vibrant colour palette and the combination of bright lips and pale skin created an eye grabbing contrast.

Words Zara Sparkes

 

 

 

 

 

ON|OFF: ASHLEY ISHAM

FASHION DESIGNER ASHLEY ISHAM PRESENTED A BREATHTAKING A/W 2011/12 COLLECTION AT MERCER STUDIOS IN COVENT GARDEN.

Ashley’s collection ‘The Enchanted Forest’ is inspired by a fairy tale where in the moon-struck madness of the winter solstice, fairy creatures emerge from their slumber.

His collection started with models in emerald and deep sapphire floral dresses adorned with a crown of flowers reminiscent of an Imperial Court from a bygone oriental dynasty.

The catwalk continued with Greek-style evening gowns with a palette of pink, turquoise blue and forest green for women who want to feel feminine and powerful with a mysterious and provocative touch.

The final part offered a more futuristic approach with metallic grey dresses embellished with scale-like sequins, black beaded and winter woollen lace appliqué, creating a slick and dramatic look.

The result is an edgy and provocative collection, which is a darker extension of Isham’s earlier S/S 2011 floral theme ‘East of Eden’.

Celebrities such as Hofit Golan, Kimberly Walsh (both wearing Isham’s pieces), Paloma Faith and Camilla Rutherford attended the show.

Words Veronica Carpio Martin  Images Dan Harley

VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT: JACOB KIMMIE

HELD IN THE STUNNING VESTIBULE AT THE FREEMASON’S HALL, THE MOMENT YOU WALKED THROUGH THE DOORS YOU WERE WELCOMED TO A COUPLE OF SCANTILY CLAD MEN ON WHITE PILLARS. WEARING NOTHING BUT A THIN LINEN CLOTH, THE BRIGHT LIGHTS LEFT NOTHING TO THE IMAGINATION. THANK GOODNESS THEN THAT AFTERWARDS YOU COULD GO AND TAKE PICTURES OF THESE MEN, THAT MY EVER A WALLFLOWER FRIEND KINDLY TOLD ME WERE CALLED SEBASTIAN AND BACH. ONCE THE AUDIENCE HAD FINISHED STARING AT THESE OILED UP ADONIS’S, WHICH SEEMED LIKE A LIFE TIME AS THE MODELS GOT READY, THE SHOW BEGAN.

One of the more unusual but refreshing catwalks I have been to, ‘Martyr’ used a plethora of multi-ethnic models and hijab covered faces. Frayed denim dresses and white splashed printed black dresses gave the show an edgy look. White toga inspired ethereal lace dresses swept along the room, winding in and out if the statuesque male plinths.

Thin printed yellow and beige see though printed tops matched with sequin detailed skirts and frayed strips of leather showed off a powerful and romantic look that Jacob Kimmie is famous for.

Red paint was sprayed over a few models and black cords of leather covered the faces of others. His work is driven by injustice and anger and this was very apparent in his collection.  The Masonic artwork in the hall and heavy art deco doors that divided the two separate audience seating spaces made you feel trapped and claustrophobic, just like the collection itself.

Jacob Kimmie AW11 full show from VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Words and images Jennifer Butler

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