RAUN LAROSE: FOREVER YOUNG S/S 2012
AGENT2 FEATURED THE FANTASTIC DEBUT COLLECTION AND INTERVIEW FROM RAUN LAROSE LAST SEASON AND WE BRING YOU HIS LATEST COLLECTION FOR S/S 2012
This Brooklyn based, young and upcoming designer is destined to be a big name and has been on the AGENT2 ‘One to Watch’ radar for quite some time now. His latest collection sees an exciting progression since we last saw him and Raun states:
“For this collection I was inspired by my childhood. I retraced the steps of my youth in search of things that were the most memorable. Backpacks, comic books, and thoughtful pairing in sport attire. As a menswear designer I strive to expand the concept of contemporary mens fashion through innovation. To challenge myself and explore new techniques, giving fruition to one of my key looks.”
To add to the buzz around Larose, Vogue Italia recently named as ‘fashion’s future’ in their menswear category.
Words Graham Gartside Bernier
HARVEY NICHOLS BRITISH MENSWEAR PROJECT
CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN KICKS OFF THE FIRST OF THREE BRITISH MENSWEAR DESIGNER INSTALLATIONS WITH HIS LIFE SIZE OFF CUT ANIMALS MADE WITH THE EXACT FABRICS USED IN HIS A/W11 COLLECTION…
AGENT2 loves to champion new and emerging designers and Harvey Nichols can often be found at the forefront of emerging new talent as well as creating platforms to help develop and nurture exciting new brands. From this month to November, Harvey Nichols is hosting a series of in-store installations, created and curated by three British designers that they are currently supporting.
Christopher Raeburn kicks of the initiative this month. The British ethical designer fuses innovative fabric technology with garment re-appropriation and a passion for military heritage. His AW11 collection is inspired by research into the original garments, their fabric technology and development.
NEWGEN sponsor Katie Eary is next to drop in-store in October. The London-based designer needs no introduction – her aggressive but noble menswear is an unstoppable, inevitable hurricane ripping its own way through fashion.
Katie says; “I’m so excited about this project with Harvey Nichols. I’ve been waiting to get my hands on a great space and Harvey Nichols id the perfect place for what I have in mind. I think people will be thrilled and intrigued by my installation… Frankenstein’s Lab in central London!”
Finishing off the trio of designer installations in November is AGENT2 favourite, James Long. Long has fast become one of the most sought after menswear talents in London. With a huge fan base ranging from Alister Mackie: Creative Director of Another Man, Luke Day: Fashion Director of GQ Style, and Lanvin’s Lucas Ossendriver praising James as his ‘favourite young designer’, James has certainly made his mark as a designer to watch.
James says: “I wanted to recreate the unsettled attitude of my Autumn/Winter collection within an installation space at Harvey Nichols. With the use of lighting I will try to form and area where my collection lives in a manic mayhem of colour and texture.”
Find out more details about Harvey Nichols Menswear Project here.
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK: HENRIK VIBSKOV
Henrik Vibskov makes time for a chat back stage at his Copenhagen Fashion Week Show.
UNCONDITIONAL MANCHESTER STORE LAUNCH
CELEBRITIES ALL OVER THE WORLD DRAPE THEMSELVES IN HIS DESIGNS BUT THE MAN BEHIND THE ICONIC ANDROGYNOUS FASHION BRAND UNCONDITIONAL, PHILIP STEPHENS, COULDN’T CARE LESS. LUCY ZELLERBACH-ADAMS SPOKE TO THE MAN WHO HAS THE FASHION-WORLD IN THE PALM OF HIS HAND ON THE EVE OF THE LAUNCH OF HIS FIRST FLAGSHIP STORE IN CENTRAL MANCHESTER.
I’ve always liked what I like to call ‘icing’. I think life is quite tough for us all. There are difficult realities that we all have to live with and then there is the ‘icing’- such as interior design, art and fashion- all those things that add a bit of colour. I’ve always had a really big interest in fashion and had a fashion PR company in the late nineties. Before that I had a go at designing and did my own collection with a friend who was a pattern-cutter. We sold to a couple of stores and I had to re-mortgage my flat but decided I wasn’t quite ready.
I started a store called Concrete eleven years ago which was a window into the work I had done in PR with other designers and it took off. We had a lot of celebrities and stylists coming in and then I did a line for the store, which was the start of Unconditional. To start with Unconditional was just two styles of knitwear for men. Factually David Beckham was the very first customer who bought Unconditional just because a box of my knitwear arrived in the store and he happened to come in to buy a pair of jeans with his stylist and ended up buying two of our cashmere sweaters.
Jude Law had his office next door, Natural Nylon which he used to have with Sadie Frost. He would come in and buy things and we used to have everybody come in. People like Gwen Stefani who would pick up Unconditional with other things we carried. I suppose really it was a case of being in the right place at the right time. A lot of stores and stylists would come to Concrete to look for trends and look at the labels we were stocking.
I think with menswear in particular when I started I saw a bit of a gap because there is a lot of really expensive designer clothing which can sometimes make you look like a Christmas tree or it’s too much of an investment or too much of a ‘look’. It was an organic process- I didn’t sit down one day and decide I was going to start a label.
When it cam to naming the brand I didn’t want to name it after myself and I love knitwear and think it’s quite cosy and you can cocoon in it and although it sounds corny I suppose the concept of unconditional love kind of works with that- it’s a bit of unconditional love from me. Lots of people say they have been travelling in the brand and they were so cosy. I love the feeling of people being protected in it. Yes, it does sound really corny but that’s the core of what it’s about.
I love our customers- we have lots of celebrity customers but I like our ‘real’ customers- of course celebrities are ‘real too! But we are not a brand that gives clothes to celebrities- that’s not what we are about at all. They buy it all on their own. We sell to shops all around the world and so I get feedback from who has bought things.
I think our customers are quite interesting. They tend to be cool but it’s not an age thing. I think our customers tend to be trend-led but only to a certain extent because they do their own things with the product. I like people to buy the clothes and make them their own. I hate people who think ‘This is the catwalk look so I’m going to wear it’ and it is something that puts me off doing shows sometimes because you do a catwalk show and put x with y and it suddenly becomes set in stone that that is us as a brand but it’s not like that at all- I want people to make it part of their own life.
I hate with a passion, cheap, disposable clothing but I think most of our customers don’t have masses of money- they might save for something and they will wear it out- literally. They might have had a piece for 3 or 4 seasons and then want the same style again.
The collection at the moment is quite big so there are lots of different facets to it. We have vests for £45, which is reasonable because we do use very nice fabrics. That is my bottom line- I will not economise there- it has to feel good and if it doesn’t feel good then there is no point.
I wanted to do luxury basics- pieces that you just really love- like the best hoodie but sometimes it’s quite difficult because you get caught up in this hamster-wheel of fashion where you are having to get new things out constantly. Although there are a lot of pieces that are signature pieces and are tweaked just a little bit.
Really sometimes a wheel is a circle and you can’t make it square- it has to be round and some things are perfect the first time and a design classic in essence.
It is difficult when there are other brands and stores, who shall remain nameless, who copy things and that’s a problem but luckily I think generally our quality is better and sometimes people want the original and that has happened with everyone. You can go and get a designer copy in any high-street store but everyone knows who it originated from.
I do think though that there are genuinely many things with Unconditional which are unique in themselves and to the brand.
The store in Manchester is going to evolve. With anything I do I don’t think I can settle on a finished product- I think you can do a skeleton and then re-think.
It’s like buying a new house and getting an interior designer- it can just look contrived. So you buy a few key pieces and then look at the light and maybe want to change the colour of the walls because the sunlight comes in differently in the afternoon. I think we’ll have to tweak but I like the theatre of shopping and I love the space, it’s a great, clean space- a blank canvas- and one of my biggest passions and influences is that whole Warhol Factory loft-theme and we did think about painting it silver but people would have thought ‘Oh my God you’re insane!’. I do love the industrial ceiling at the site though.
It’s not an Armani shop, that’s not what we are about. We straddle quite a lot of different places- we have some very high-end customers right to fashion students.
People pick up on the celebrity side more and more and I find that sad- I get no more of a thrill from it than other people buying my products. In fact, last night we went out and someone fell over in front of us and we got chatting and somehow Unconditional came out and she said ‘I love Unconditional! It’s iconic!’ She had bought one of our tops and then seen it copied in other stores. She said how honoured she was to meet me and that was really sweet.
There is talk of the label being ‘suited’ to London-fashion but sometimes people here are maybe more adventurous than London- it’s like music, fashion has elements of the same depending where you go. There is talk of opening a store in LA but I think with the internet and technology unfortunately more and more places are getting homogenous. Everything is everywhere and so everywhere is becoming the same a little bit. I think we should celebrate diversity a little bit more. The store here will be different to anything in London and different again to LA.
I think that within my collection my roots and my mindset is Northern- I can’t pinpoint it- I was hatched here- I am Mancunian and was absorbing things here for the first 17 years of my life. There is just something innately in me that is Mancunian.
People ask if I’m apprehensive about the launch but it’s no big deal. Well, I suppose it’s a relatively big deal. I dislike the term ‘flagship’- it’s just a store for local people- but it’s always a big deal putting things on and you have to react to what works and what doesn’t. Retail is tough but I think that if you have a good product at the right price and of good quality and those things all match there is an audience for it. If there isn’t I’ll have to start gardening and growing carrots! You’ve just got to try things haven’t you? If nobody tried anything nothing would happen.
UNCONDITIONAL Manchester is open now. Visit www.unconditional.uk.com for more information.
Words and images Lucy Zellerbach-Adams
EASTPAK X KRIS VAN ASSCHE
FOLLOWING PARTNERSHIPS WITH THE LIKES OF RAF SIMONS, RICK OWENS, CHRISTOPHER SHANNON AND GASPARD YURKIEVICH, BAGMAKERS EASTPAK CONTINUE THEIR HIGH END COLLABORATIONS WITH THEIR LATEST COLLECTION BY KRIS VAN ASSCHE. THE COLLECTION IS A HIGHLY SUCCESSFUL BLEND OF VAN ASSCHE’S UNIQUE BRAND OF SOPHISTICATION AND THE UNCONVENTIONAL SIMPLICITY OF EASTPAK’S OWN PHILOSOPHY AND WAS LAUNCHED DURING VAN ASSCHE’S FW11 SHOW IN PARIS IN JANUARY 2011.
The Belgian fashion designer brings his expertise in the field with a line of bags featuring backpacks and oversized shoulder bags in three combinations of materials and colours echoing the black/grey/natural colour pallet of Van Assche’s own FW11/12 collection. Indeed, the bags also reflect certain other recurring themes in the fashion designer’s own work such as suppleness and sobriety, internal structure and pure lines.
The EASTPAK KRISVANASSCHE collection will available in selected stores from July 2011. Each creation bears a metallic seal engraved with the two collaborating brand names.
Check out Eastpak’s recent collaboration with AGENT2 favourite, Rick Owens here and their Quinze and Milan sofa project here.
VERSACE FOR H & M
WORDS SPREAD LIKE WILDFIRE AMONGST THE FASHION CONSCIOUS TWITTER CROWD AND IT WAS THERE THAT RUMOURS OF A VERSACE/H & M COLLABORATION FIRST SURFACED. AND, AS THE WHISPERS OF RYAN GIGG’S INFIDELITY WERE EVENTUALLY CONFIRMED, SO TO WERE THESE RUMOURS AS H & M TODAY CONFIRMED THE IMPENDING PAIRING.
“I am thrilled to be collaborating with H&M and to have the opportunity of reaching their wide audience. The collection will be quintessential Versace, perfect for H&M and Versace fans everywhere,” says Donatella Versace.
The Versace for H&M collection will take inspiration from the Italian fashion house’s heritage and include the brand’s signatures of prints, colour, leather and other exclusive materials at H&M prices – well a little marked up from usual H&M prices.
The womenswear collection will be dominated by dresses that fit right in with the spirit of the season, featuring studded leather and colourful prints, with accessories including high heels and costume jewellery while the men’s collection will focus on sharp tailoring, including the perfect tuxedo, as well as belts and jewellery.
For the first time in a designer collaboration at H&M the collection will consist of some homeware pieces, including cushions and a bedspread.
“Versace is one of the most important brands of recent times, and their collection for H&M will be glamorous and flamboyant – everything Versace stands for. Donatella Versace is sharing with us iconic designs from the archives. This is such a celebratory collaboration and is perfect for the party season,” says Margareta van den Bosch, creative advisor at H&M.
We suspect that Donatella has been going through the Versace archives for a few weeks now, with Lady Gaga being wearing several vintage Versace pieces as she tours Europe.
The first Versace for H&M collection will be the Autumn 2011 collection set to drop on November 17, 2011, while a pre-spring collection will drop in countries with H&M online sales on January 19th, 2012.
We can’t wait to see what Donatella has in store for us – we love the black sandals on the model above – and if previous collaborations with the likes of Lanvin, Karl Lagerfeld and Jimmy Choo are anything to go by, there will be lines around the block for this one.
Words Graham Gartside -Bernier
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER GOES ON TOUR
THE ENFANT TERRIBLE OF THE FASHION WORLD, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER, IS GOING ON TOUR. WELL, NOT THE MAN HIMSELF, BUT SOME OF HIS HIS MOST FANTASTIC PIECES ARE. THE MONTREAL MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS’ JEAN PAUL GAULTIER EXHIBITION OPENEND THIS WEEKEND BEFORE THE COLLECTION EMBARKS ON A WORLDWIDE TOUR.
Marking the 35th anniversary of the designer’s label, ‘The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk’ showcases 140 examples of the artist’s work including his old teddy bear decked out in a paper bosom to Madonna’s corsets and a parrot feather bolero.
No era of Gaultier’s goes unacknowledged: there are the quintessentially French-striped shirts, but there are also Mohawk and tartan-sporting mannequins, over-the-top eveningwear, and yes, that conical bra!
Interestingly, while we’re on the topic of Madge, Gaultier once revealed he proposed to Madonna three times because she was the only woman he could have sex with.
The exhibition includes about 140 ensembles, but also sketches, fashion photography, and excerpts from films, runway shows, performances and more, in six different sections: The Odyssey of Jean Paul Gaultier; The Boudoir; Skin Deep; Eurostar; Urban Jungle; and Metropolis.
“Beyond the technical virtuosity resulting from exceptional expertise in the various skills involved in haute couture, an unbridled imagination and ground‐breaking artistic collaborations, he offers an open‐minded vision of society, a crazy, sensitive, funny, sassy world in which everyone can assert his or her own identity, a world without discrimination, a unique ‘fusion couture,’” said Nathalie Bondil, the museum’s director and chief curator, in a statement. “Beneath Jean Paul Gaultier’s wit and irreverence lie a true generosity of spirit and a very powerful message for society. His humanist aesthetic touches me deeply.”
LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION SHOW 2011
ONCE AGAIN IT WAS TIME FOR ONE OF THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS FASHION SCHOOLS TO HOST THEIR GRADUATE SHOW. WITH PRIZES UP FOR GRABS FOR THE BEST USE OF TRIMMINGS AND INNOVATIVE USE OF FABRICS, THE COLLECTIONS WERE COLOURFUL AND THICK WITH TEXTURES.
A few well known faces scattered the aisles including fashion entrepreneur Harold Tillman, Jo Wood and a scattering of writer and fashion illustrators.
Every collection down that came down the catwalk was like a fairy tale meets a South American tribal twist. Beads and bells dangled from fur and knitwear. Leather worked alongside silk and a clash of colours sped down the runway. Pockets were shaped and closed like old fashion purses with gold clasps, bags were used as hats and faces were masked with woven sacks. There was also an element of high end sportswear thrown in. There was so much to look at it was easy to miss the details that went into the collections.
Draping and layering was a standout theme. One of the best examples of this was Yingzhi Luo – Chi Chi’s use of African printed chiffon, layered with pleated and beaded Maypole dancing strips of fabric.
Menswear was well put together and many had a fresh approach to the norm and had obviously thought outside the box. Jung Yeon Chae’s collection pleated mackintoshes and shorts gave an almost Scottish Kilt. The men looked sleek in greys, blacks and whites, with leggings underneath, not at all feminine. Jaeho Choi’s ying and yang menswear tailoring with large oversized bags gave a refreshing modern element to the usual.
Sean McGirr did a more gothic look, with high platform shoes, oversized knits and heavy metal inspired baggy trousers and Nair Afonso Xavier produced a line of wearable 80’s inspired wearable bright gym wear with poncho style jackets and fitted shirts.
Barnett Lawson Best use of trimmings winner was deservedly Charlotte Barry. Her volcanic gold goddess dresses were every woman’s dream. Detailed coats added to the luxurious dresses.
Biddie Sawyer Silks Award Innovative use of Fabrics was Stine Riis. Shiny materials and matt were added to leather to give a shimmery effect. Deep greens and blues coupled with red blue and grey furs made this collection the most ready to wear, and appealing to the power dressing female form.
Nova Chiu, winner of Collection of the Year, sent goose pimples down the audience with her jungle pearly queen collection. Bright primary coloured fur detailing, with baby blue beads and tie dyed skin tight fabrics looked beautiful and exotic amongst the woven South American weaved jackets and skirts. You could hear the bells jangling down the catwalk, transforming you to a different culture.
Check out our LCF Capsule #3 Exhibition article here.
Words Jennifer Butler Images Alex Maguire / Chris Moore – catwalking.com
RAUN LAROSE INTERVIEW
IT IS ALWAYS DIFFICULT AS A MENSWEAR DESIGNER TO PUSH THE BOUNDARIES AND OPEN NEW AVENUES, BUT BROOKLYN BASED RAUN LAROSE HAS SMARTENED UP TO TAKE ON THE COMPETITION. JENNIFER BUTLER OF AGENT2 MAGAZINE SPOKE TO THE LAROSE ABOUT HIS LOVE OF ARCHITECTURE AND WHAT MADE HIM GO INTO MENSWEAR.
There is a lot of black and white and symmetry in your collection. How has being bought up in New York and living there influenced your designs?
Black and white will always be a timeless classic. For my collection, less is definitely more. Growing up in New York has definitely influenced my work and my perception on Fashion. My main reason for pursuing menswear was because I lost interest in what the market had to offer.
What other aspects have influenced your designs?
I have a huge love for architecture. I always try to incorporate architectural influences in my collections. The more I develop as a designer the more I see myself becoming obsessed with shapes and trying to figure out ways to create new silhouettes.
What made you get into designing clothes, in particular menswear?
I have always had a major love for fashion since I was a little boy. My mum was a seamstress. I used to observe her and how much time and effort she put into her work. I always knew I wanted to pursue a career in fashion, but it wasn’t until age 21 that I knew I wanted to pursue a career in menswear. My main reason for pursuing menswear was because I lost interest in what the market had to offer.
What kind of image are you trying to create with this collection? Who wears your clothes?
I am really not concerned with building an image for my collections. I design clothes for the individual who is seeking a change.
You use a lot of different textures and materials in your work. What made you choose to do this in your collection?
I always like to incorporate an element of unexpectedness in my designs. The inspiration behind my current collection came from a book I had read entitled “Time Traveller” by Dr Donald Mallet. I used a lot of high quality fabrics (boucle, wools, cotton poplins) as well as a few unexpected (Neoprene, Foam, Swarovski crystals, Organza). I’m all for showcasing people in a new way.
An element of your collection that sticks out to me is that many of your jumpers and under garments fall below the knee, with tight leggings underneath. Tell me about your decisions when designing?
Whenever I start the creative process for a collection I usually isolate myself for a few months and focus on what it is exactly that I want to convey. For fall I was inspired by Dr Mallets and I was fascinated by the author’s vision of creating a time machine that could visit both past and future. After reading the book I formed this character in my mind, the young man who is a risk taker and wants to lead his generation into the future that is before us. Although he sometimes looks to the past his mind is focused on the future and what it has in store.
What is next for you? How would you like to progress?
I’m preparing to debut my Summer/Spring 2012 collection in Amsterdam during International Fashion Week. As for progression I hope to start selling my collections as well as be granted more opportunities to showcase my work to the public.
Interview Jennifer Butler
VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT | MEN ONES TO WATCH
May 5, 2011 by Editor
Filed under SOCIAL DIARY
VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT PRESENTED THE A/W ‘11/12 MENSWEAR COLLECTION SHOWCASE ONES TO WATCH MEN ON DAY 6, MENSWEAR DAY OF LONDON FASHION WEEK.
C/Bruerberg
Camilla Bruerberg, the designer behind the label C/Bruerberg took her inspiration from evolution and traditional craft, focusing on a combination of digital print and Knit. She opened with a focus on sheer knitted pieces including horizontal banding and crochet.
The perceptible traditional craft focus came with the scarves made up of threaded, frayed wool in bright orange, green and mustard. Many of the knitted pieces included horizontal banding with sheer inserts. A deviation from knit and crochet came with an oversized structured, print t-shirt.
A.Hallucination
A.Hallucination’s traditional deep toned winter pallet was a collection based around a reworked classic; the suit. A modern twist was established with the introduction of exaggerated detailing: large and numerous pockets, belts and toggles. The Macs, trenches and coats were often two tone blocks of materials such as browns and blues and maroon trousers kept in line with the winter pallet. Jumpers were finished with in-built snood necklines which would serve as a practical winter warmer.
A white bowtie teamed with a white shirt was a classic touch of tailoring for A.Hallucination.
Mr Lipop
Mr Lipop’s stand out concept was incorporating accessories into the clothes. Hoods were zipped onto rucksacks in deep shades of purple and black. Jumpers featured inbuilt gloves hanging from the sleeves, showcasing the label’s flare for ingenuity and practicality. The addition of black and white fur to the hoods gave pulled the collection into the cold mid-winter.
A stand out piece was a French resistance inspired leather trench coat, styled with a black beret and polo neck. A shimmering navy jacket, brown and suede tunic suit showcased the wearability of Mr Lipop’s pieces and the inclusion of an oversized shearling aviator jacket, made sure that the men weren’t to miss out on one of this season’s big trends.
Asger Juel Larsen
With a lace-up, corset style outfit, models costumed like pall-bearers and the prevalence of black and metal spike, there was evidently a gothic vibe going throughout the Asger Juel Larsen collection. A model styled to look like Marilyn Manson and the addition of a cruxifix to a top-hat continued this dark theme. Larson also looked to America for inspiration sending American flag worn as a cape – in muted black, brown and navy – cowboy chaps, and leather briefs down the runway.
Words Almaz Ohene
