RIMMEL’S LFW SURVIVAL KIT

AS PART OF THE COLLABORATION BETWEEN GLAM MEDIA AND RIMMEL LONDON FOR LONDON FASHION WEEK, THEY CREATED THE ULTIMATE ATTENDEE’S SURVIVAL KIT. AGENT2 WERE LUCKY ENOUGH TO GET THEIR HANDS ON A PACK AND GAVE THE PRODUCTS A TRAIL RUN.

These new lipsticks, available in 7 shades, were created for Rimmel by long time brand ambassador Kate Moss. I got the darkest purple shade which looks amazing in a goth inspired way, perfect for a/w 11.

The eyeshadow quad consists of 4 shades for blending and contouring and I’m impressed with their staying power. Definitely a must when make up is sliding off your face under the hot show lights.

Tired eyes have a tendency to set in after a few days of hectic running from show to show and this Extra Wow Lash mascara is great for making you look more awake than you really feel!

The new Match Perfection Cream Gel foundation covered up my tired eyes perfectly and stayed on even on the busiest, hottest tube journey between shows.

The top product in the whole kit, for me, was the Fix & Perfect Pro Primer. It brightens and livens up a tired complexion and ensures that foundation glides on smoothly and lasts longer. I got lots of compliments on my skin whilst wearing this one!

All in all, a great selection of products that kept me looking fresh even when feeling I was about to drop. Thanks to Glam Media and Rimmel for letting us try them out!

Words Tamsin Worrad

APPY FEET: THE PEDICURE WITH A DIFFERENCE

THE SPECIALIST SPA BUSINESS APPY FEET, OPENED JUST UNDER A YEAR AGO IN THE MEADOWHALL SHOPPING CENTRE, SHEFFIELD. THE FIRST OF ITS KIND IN THE UK, IT OFFERS CLIENTS THE SERVICES OF A TINY FISH CALLED GARRA RUFA, OTHERWISE KNOWN AS DOCTOR FISH.

Garra rufa are part of the carp family and indigenous to the river basins of the Turkish towns, Kangal and Sivas. The legend behind their doctoring uses goes something like this.  About four hundred years ago in central Turkey  an injured shepherd fell into a river and found that hundreds of fish swarmed towards him and began to nibble away at his chafed and wounded parts. The cuts and lesion healed miraculously and ever since, the people of the region have made use of the Garra rufa’s unique flesh-eating services.

As the Turks discovered, the fish will only work on unhealthy or dead skin, leaving the healthy skin untouched.  As such fish pedicures (and manicures) have proved popular and the idea has been exported all around Asia, Europe and parts of the United States. In fact, these little minnow size fish have no teeth, instead of biting at the skin, they simply suck.

At the spa the treatment process begins by popping your feet into a more orthodox foot spa before you can start to paddle in the pools full of fish quietly bubbling away in the cherful bright orange surroundings of Appy Feet; as it’s necessary to remove any sock fluff and specks of dirt, which also softens calluses in preparation for a good nibbling.

After a few minutes you are ready to move on to the warm tanks. The initial reaction as fish swarm onto your bare feet limb is to pull it sharply out as the sensation is much like intense tickling. This odd sensation disappears about a couple of minutes and the experience is relaxing for the remainder of the treatment time – pedicure times come in two brackets: 15 or 35 minutes – where the curious little dermatologist go about their work of gently nibbling off any dead hard skin, leaving you pampered, healthy and glowing.

All over the UK the Appy Fish centres are springing up and as people are taking advantage of this totally organic pedicure.

Find your local Appy Fish centre on their website.

Words Almaz Ohene

MADARA ECOCARE COMBINES CARE FOR AGEING EYES WITH ENVIRONMENTAL FRIENDLINESS

MADARA IS A TOP BALTIC BRAND THAT HAS WON ACCOLADES FOR THE ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY NATURE OF BOTH ITS PRODUCTS AND THEIR PACKAGING, WHICH IS SIMPLE, RECYCLABLE, ALL OF ITS MATERIALS ARE SOURCED FROM RENEWABLE FORESTS AND EVERYTHING IS PRODUCED IN COMPLIANT FACTORIES.

Their eye repair cream itself, which lists brightening tomato, regenerating pumpkin, rejuvenating horsetail and soothing cornflower as key ingredients, doesn’t have the easiest of applications, as its cream gel texture has a slightly gloopy, tacky texture that doesn’t absorb readily in to the skin around the under eye and orbital bone area.  However, after being left to ‘soak in’ for a few minutes, the cream’s soothing benefits could be seen on the outside, with the area appearing firmer, fresher and more luminous and felt on the inside, with the enjoyment of its light fragrance conjuring up feelings of submersion in the wild flowers of Baltic meadows.

On the down side of the very laudable environmentally friendly packaging which is at the heart of Madara, whilst the pump dispenser makes measured application easy, the inks used come rub off on the hands leaving ink smudges.  This, however, is a very minor hurdle to overcome in light of what the brand achieves.

Madara Eye Repair Cream is available at Selfridges, So Organic and other online retailers at £23.00 RRP

Words Judith Rafferty

 

ETAT LIBRE D’ORANGE: SCENT OF DISTURBANCE

AGENT2 CHATS TO THE FOUNDER OF PROVOCATIVE PERFUME HOUSE ETAT LIBRE D’ORANGE

THESE DAYS MANY PERFUMERS ARE RELUCTANT TO BREAK AWAY FROM THE STATUS QUO, CHOOSING INSTEAD TO ‘PLAY IT SAFE’ AND WAIT FOR CASH TO COME ROLLING IN. NOT SO WITH ETAT LIBRE D’ORANGE. FORGET SOFT FLORAL BOUQUETS, ACCOMPANIED BY GLOSSY AD CAMPAIGNS AND SMILING, SPARKLING CELEBRITIES. WITH FRAGRANCES CALLED FAT ELECTRICIAN, PUTAIN DES PALACES (HOTEL SLUT) AND SÉCRÉTIONS MAGNIFIQUES THE BRAND’S SUGGESTIVENESS IS A TWO-FINGERED SALUTE TO THE OVERTLY GLAMORISED WORLD OF SCENT. WE CAUGHT UP WITH ITS FOUNDER- THE VERY CHARMING ETIENNE DE SWARDT – TO TALK ABOUT HIS DARING CONCEPT FOR THE BRAND, WORKING WITH TILDA SWINTON AND HIS UNUSUAL SCENT INSPIRATIONS.

What gave you the idea to create such a provocative perfume brand?

Somehow, perfumery has become a rigid money-driven institution, so I created Etat Libre d’Orange as an ‘independent free state’ i.e. less corrupted by the usual marketing protocols. Our perfumers are free to create as artists should be, using the best raw materials to implement our unique concepts. We explore the more risqué side of perfume, and like to think of ourselves as mavericks risking anything and reporting to no one. I love to say that Kevin Spacey’s famous words in the film Swimming with Sharks: “Kill your parents. F*ck your friends. Have a nice day.” This could be our motto. We refuse to tone down our fragrances, because we’d rather please one person rather than 99 – which is the crux of our cash flow problems but thankfully we are still here! Our inspiration is pure nonsense and neurotic despair!

For example, Putain des Palaces discloses one of the 19th century taboos, starring a prostitute, who is getting ready with powder and lipstick for the night ahead. The make-up smell fills up the room until her first client arrives. Then the sophisticated smell yields to animal, leathery notes as the intercourse takes place. It’s a scandalous scent for a licentious story!

What was the idea behind the name “L’Etat Libre D’Orange?”

The name (meaning ‘Free State of Orange’) has been chosen in reference to the region of South Africa where I’m from. In 185, the Boers created an independent republic in South Africa called The Free State of Orange, after the princely family of Orange-Nassau from the Netherlands – a lineage from which the majority of Boers pioneers came from. Etat Libre d’Orange claims the same rebellious spirit – a state of mind which is at odds with convention.

Do you think there’s something lacking in the predominantly delicate, floral and feminine scents currently available?

What is generally lacking in the mainstream fragrances is a true sense of renewal.

The traditional perfume brands are afraid of innovation because it is risqué and could potentially mean a loss in sales. That is why a lot of companies are currently searching their past for un-risqué values and products.

How do you create a scent? Is there a particular process?

There is no particular process – every scent has its own genesis and history. I’m not too dogmatic in terms of how a scent is created. It begins with a story or a character I find appealing – we love random encounters with interesting, different people – and the fragrance takes shape after that.

Do you have a favourite perfume ingredient?

The rose accord twisted with Peruvian balm in our Dermophile Indien fragrance could be my ‘Madeleine de Proust.’

Sécretions Magnifiques by Antoine Lie was quite an unusual scent- what were people’s reactions when it came out?

Sécretions Magnifiques is an ‘anti-fragrance.’ Instead of conceiving a fragrance in the conventional way, opposing ‘good’ artificial smells to hide ‘bad’ personal ones, Antoine chose to highlight the latter. Consequently, Sécrétions Magnifiques does not trigger balanced reactions: either you love this fragrance or you hate it.

What made you choose Tilda Swinton as an inspiration for Like This?

Tilda Swinton is the eeriest beauty I have ever come across. She inspired me because of this seemingly immortal aura she has. Tilda also brought her own inspirations that gave birth to the fragrance’s name (which is also the title of her favourite poem.)

Do you have a favourite fragrance among the collection?

Our forthcoming fragrance Archives 69 has a unique concept behind it. It comes from a short story by Boris Vian telling the tale of an austere bachelor taking extreme pleasure with a vampire in Count Dracula’s castle – a subtle end to innocence and a schizophrenic love lost in between romanticism and eroticism.

Where do you see the future of perfume as heading?

Bankrupt! I believe that perfume’s future lies in the exploration of new olfactory territories, without boundaries – which is obviously going to be financially difficult for emerging perfumers.

What makes the creation of scent such a unique art form?

Devising a fragrance remains a very mysterious art because it combines science and aesthetics. A perfumer is perpetually exploring…

Etat Libre D’Orange Fragrances can be purchased online here.

etatlibredorange.com

Words Viola Levy

BLACK IS BEAUTIFUL – AFRO HAIR AND BEAUTY SHOW 2010

OVER THE SPRING BANK HOLIDAY THE 29^TH ANNUAL AFRO HAIR AND BEAUTY SHOW WAS HELD AT THE CONTEMPORARY BUSINESS DESIGN CENTRE, ISLINGTON, LONDON. THE BLACK HAIR AND BEAUTY INDUSTRY IS WORTH MILLIONS OF POUNDS YEAR, YET GO INTO ANY MAINSTREAM BEAUTY OUTLET AND YOU’LL BE HARD PUSHED TO FIND SPECIFIC RANGES FOR NON-WHITES. AS A RESULT OF THIS UNDER-REPRESENTATION, EACH YEAR HUNDREDS ‘ETHNICALLY FOCUSED’ COMPANIES BECOME EXHIBITORS AND SET UP STALL PROMOTING PRODUCTS THAT, BY AND LARGE, ARE AIMED AT THE EVER GROWING AFRO-CARIBBEAN/BLACK/MIXED CONSUMER POPULATION.

This year the show’s buzzword was diversity. Gone are the days when the choice of hair style for women of colour was limited to wearing your chemically straightened hair either long or short. Today ‘Relaxer’ packs are still sold by the truck-load but we’re more likely than ever before to spot a woman of colour sporting her ‘natural’ hair. Subsequently, this year a greater emphasis was placed on natural hair options, which shone with ingenuity, and exhibitors were dedicated to spilling natures secret’s to incredibly healthy hair. A programme of seminars provided the opportunity to learn via the conventional methods; and Stop Watch Stylist competitions, challenged hairdressers to create inventive hair designs within a strict fifteen minute time slot to prove just how easy it is to tame a dense mass of afro hair, and win the approval of the celebrity judges in attendance.

Dyhema from the Southeast London salon, LocsTafari, specialises in ‘Locs’ and natural hair grooming, inspired by the legacy of her African heritage and upbringing. Whether it’s an Afro, Micro Thin Locs or organically grown Jumbo Locs her approach is the same; natural oils, blessed hands and hearts of love.

To create ‘Locs’ Dyhema explains that “several techniques can be used, so many, [laughs] just so many. You can use your fingers to twist sections of hair into ‘Locs’.  You can get a flannel or woolly jumper and rub round in circles around your head – you’lll start to notice little ‘Loc’ balls forming. The most common technique is simply by doing it organically. Just leaving your hair and it’ll eventually mat together and form ‘loc’s on their own. Or there’s ‘Interlocking’ which involves using a needle to hook sections of hair together.”

She found herself within the professional ‘Loctitian’ circle when she “started just doing favours for friends. Then I realised that my hair diary was more hectic than my work diary. It’s something that I enjoy doing, so I decided to make a career out of it. It’s amazing how little is known about a natural hair style so it gives me a chance to help people express themselves.”

When asked whether she would advise going to the ‘Loctitian’ often, or just let the ‘Locs’ do their own thing, she continued: “It depends totally on the individual. Some people in the corporate world would go to the salon more often because they want to keep the ‘sharp’, ‘fresh’ look. They might need to go to the salon more often than someone is an artist. What I do say though, is that in life, too much of one thing is not bad thing. You can kind of over-do ‘Locs’ as constantly re- twisting the ‘Locs’ can make them weak, so I would advise grooming them not more than once every two weeks.”

Despite the attendance of exhibitors championing natural hair, the promotion of human and synthetic false hair is still the main draw for the thousands of visitors to the Afro Hair and Beauty Show.

Exhibitor ‘Neferlady’ boasts of supplying “100% Virgin Natural Brazilian and Malaysian Hair from 10 – 24 inches”, ‘Lace Wig Elegance’ peddles “Brazilian, Indian, Peruvian, and Malaysian hair that is 100% virgin, guaranteed tangle free that moves naturally”, ‘Bullfinch International Ltd’ are manufacturers of “luxurious, flowing 100% Virgin Remy Indian Human Hair”. It is exactly this massive demand for straight false-hair alternatives that inspired award-winning comedian and filmmaker, Chris Rock, to investigate this pandemic in his hilarious Fall 2009 documentary, Good Hair, Chris visits beauty salons and hairstyling battles, much like those of the Afro Hair and Beauty Show; but also visits scientific laboratories and Indian temples to explore the way hairstyles impact the activities, pocketbooks, sexual relationships, and self-esteem of the black community. The film was heavily promoted at the event.

The show also provided an opportunity to observe the beautiful models and fabulous designs from some of the finest UK designers of Afro-Caribbean/Black/Mixed heritage and be bowled over by street dance routines choreographed and performed by the stars of the latest dance movie StreetDance. ‘Tamarind Books’, the leading independent publisher of multicultural picture books held a creative writing workshop on writing multicultural stories for children and teens and discussed the importance of representing of black children in literature.

The Bank Holiday Weekend was brought to a close with the amazing ‘Sensationnel Icon’ competition. The most creative hair designers from around the country, each created a collection of elaborate masterpieces showcasing their visions in colour, shape and astounding workmanship. The winner was Angela Plummer of Sour2Sweet in North London who knitted and plaited the hair extensions into millinery inspired creations to music by Grace Jones.

Words and images Almaz Ohene

DERMALOGICA EVENT

Beauty bloggers and journalists were invited to get under the skin of the Dermalogica brand earlier this week at Dermalogica Kensington. Taking us on the 25 year journey of the cult skincare range was founder Jane Wurwand, whose presentation proved to be super motivational.

Focused not just on the professional skincare industry, the talk touched on entrepreneurship (‘identify the pain and you’ve found the opportunity’), the power of marketing via word of mouth and a good dose of feel good, girl power -98% of skin therapists are women, after all. Jane quoted from former US Secretary of State Madeleine Albright (which I enjoyed so much I just had to include it) by stating that ‘there’s a special place in hell reserved for women who don’t help other women’. It was all unifying, sisterly stuff, which left you with the feeling that, as a financially independent and ambitious woman, anything is possible.

Jane is also the brains behind The International Dermal Institute and it became clear that the Institutes cutting edge research on the Dermalogica line is what gives Dermalogica its point of difference, and goes a long way into accounting for its massive global reach. The foundation of Dermalogica as a ‘skin wellness’ range, as opposed to a beauty brand consisting of luxury skin products, all over-priced packaging and cryptic content, remains refreshing and relevant.

Education over, it was hair bands on (very fetching) and we were all digging into Dermalogica’s ‘hero’ products under the guidance of a skin therapist (the Daily Resurfacer was a resounding winner in my group). A Face Mapping skin analysis was available at the end of the evening, which assesses and detects your problem areas and recommends a treatment prescription, a free service that’s available for anyone feeling complexion curious.

I left the evening something of a Dermalogica disciple, ready, in true Dermalogica style, to spread the word.

dermalogica.com

Words Emma Harding

HEAT PROOF

SHIELD YOURSELF FROM THE RAYS WITH THE LATEST CUTTING EDGE SUN CARE. BE IT ECO-FRIENDLY INGREDIENTS OR A FUSS FREE FORM, WE BRING YOU A SELECTION OF SUN SCREENS WITH BENEFITS.

Sunscreen Swipes SPF30, £28, Supergoop!

For sun protection on the go, Supergoop! Offers the ultimate convenience in the form of its re-sealable wipe designs.  Solving the problem of sticky fingers and stains, Sunscreen Wipes fill the niche for city sun care, particularly the handbag friendly Travel Swipes size. Free from parabens, petrochemicals, fragrances and phthalates, this is a fuss free formula with green credentials.

UV Protect Targeted Sunscreen Stick For Face & Body SPF 50, £18.50, Kiehl’s

Cult skincare brand Kiehl’s have formulated organic UV filters – Mexoryl SX and XT – which maintain their protection properties from the sun and do not break down, even in the most intense heat. The stick design is practical and offers a less messy alternative to sometimes-greasy lotions, while there’s more than a hint of old school vacation to this retro packaging.

Sun Lotion SPF 30+, £39, Jurlique

Organic extracts of Lavender and Orange add a soothing quality to this light- weight formula, while the broad spectrum sun protection shields against both UVB and UVA (the harshest rays that penetrate deep into the layers of the skin).  This earth friendly lotion smells so delicious, you could find yourself developing an applying addiction!

Invisible Staying Powder, £38, INVISIBLE ZINC

The Aussies know a thing or two about sun protection, so it’s no surprise that the pioneering INVISBLE ZINC range is from down under. The naturally derived micro fine Zinc Oxide formula creates second skin defense against UV rays and environmental pollutants. We’re particularly taken with the innovative Invisible Staying Powder, which melts into skin to set foundation or can be simply used on its own.

Body Spray SPF 25, £17, Clinique

Tired of having to corner someone to slather sun cream on your back? This micro fine spray ensures optimum coverage in those tricky to reach areas. The Solarsmart technology ensures a photostable sun screen, whereby ultra harmful UVB protection is three times proportional to UVA protection, while also being allergy tested and 100% fragrance free. The bright yellow bottle is pure sunshine, too.

Bronzage Anti Age, £18, Lierac

The new sun care range from French skincare brand Lierac includes this specially formulated product designed to target the incredibly delicate areas of the face and décolleté. Enriched with Cactus fig extract to provide resistance   from the appearance of age spots and skin discolouration, it also combats the process of premature ageing.

Photo Reverse Body, £39, Institut Esthederm

For shade dwellers with a zero tolerance policy to a tan, the latest product from Institut Esthederm allows the freedom to emerge from under the sun umbrella.  The technology actually inhibits the melanogenisis process, which means your skin will undergo no change from UVA and UVB rays, while the reversal of pigmentation remedies previous damage.

Words Emma Harding

SIX SCENTS: THE SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS

AFTER THE TRIUMPH OF THEIR FIRST SET OF FRAGRANCES, SERIES ONE, SIX SCENTS GOT THEIR NOSES STUCK IN TO CREATING NEW WAYS OF TANTALISING THE SENSES.

AGENT2 Magazine’s Jennifer Butler speaks to Kaya Sorhaindo about uncovering the lost art of engaging with perfumes, and how creativity with a conscience has inspired the support of designers.

Kaya has a very strong sense of what story she is telling with the perfumes he creates. His recent exhibition at the Markt Scope Art Show in New York was more than just a viewing for a latest line of fragrances. Visitors were encouraged to interact with the garments and fragrances, even with some people requesting to try on pieces right off the mannequin, politely being refused by curator and supporter of Six Scents Diane Pernet.

The experience is elevated by the designers that apply their talents to these works of art. The project involves bringing artists together from two completely different disciplines. Kaya explains what inspired this concept, “Scent has always been an area of fascination for me. I first thought about the project purely as a multi-sensory exhibition experience; however after discussing with my team we decided to build the experience into a product. Bringing designers and perfumers together is not new, however the type of designers that we commission are quite interesting. Although these designers are somewhat internationally recognised, they would never do a mass market fragrance for a number of reasons. Therefore we wanted to give them an opportunity to apply the ideas that define their collection to a totally different artistic discipline and in doing so they are not only providing a glimpse into of who they are as individuals, but also providing an opportunity for a larger audience to connect with their clothing on a more personal level.”

One of the artists commissioned for Series Two is Japanese artist Azuma Makoto. He has created a series of botanical sculptures for the collection along with a number of video pieces. Every designer was asked to imagine a place and an experience. With the packaging and films the whole experience is slowed down, you interact and contribute to the unfolding of the fragrance story.

Kaya defines the collection as a way to appreciate our surroundings, “The idea was to allow people to share in this experience or fantasy and to help preserve these experiences. Without nature there is no art, for many years artist have been inspired by nature and through the collection we tried to encourage people to appreciate and preserve the thing that inspires us most”.

Kaya has incorporated his love of nature and sustainability by supporting charities through her work. This time around she choose Pro- Natura. Kaya has an unlimited amount of positive things to say about this worthwhile charity. They are one of the most effective green charities basically because they are giving poor people alternative solutions to make money, as opposed to chopping down their forests or overfishing for example. It is amazing, because it is an organization working from the bottom up. It’s not only helping to create environmental solutions, but also symbiotically creating economic and social solutions as well.”

There is such a wide spectrum of people who buy these fragrances. Production was limited to 2,000 bottles per perfume, making them somewhat inclusive, but not producing too much as it would not seem as special. If you buy these fragrances you are genuinely looking for more out of a product, an experience.

Kaya has big plans for the future and high expectations of the fragrances. “The beauty of Six Scents is that it has a little bit for everyone, several touch points and things that you can connect with. This allows us to present the collection in a diverse range of shops from museums and fashion boutiques, to interior design shops, hotels and apothecaries. We are very much committed to the multi-sensory experience, so we will continue to explore new ways for people to appreciate, interpret and engage with fragrance.”

Words Jennifer Butler  Images Six Scents

KJAER WEIS: STYLE AND SUBSTANCE

THE KJAER WEIS RANGE OFFERS A COSMETICS KIT WITH SUPER GREEN CREDENTIALS.

‘‘Think of it as the difference between eating an apple fresh from the tree or opting for a processed cookie,’’ enthuses make-up artist Kirsten Kjaer Weis, neatly illustrating the benefits of her new, organic Kjaer Weis cosmetics line over traditional brands. The beauty industry has long recognised the importance of organic and sustainable products, with everything from skin care to bath oils and fragrance receiving the eco treatment. Cosmetics manufacturers, however, have been slow to face up to the demands of a chic, sustainable lifestyle, leaving principled make-up junkies at a loss to find their fix. The impossibly sleek Kjaer Weis range, created from 95% organics and stocked exclusively by champions of innovation, Space NK, looks set to supply it.

Kirsten cites the exacting skincare demands of her clients during 18 years of industry experience, as the initial motivation for starting her range. ‘’I really started questioning products after the constant flow of women that I would find sitting in front of me with rashes and allergies – if that’s the short-term effects, imagine the long term? It really got me thinking.’’ The outcome, 6 years in the making, has been a CCPB certified, truly organic line for eyes, lips and cheeks, whose formulas consist of pigments and preservatives extracted from wildflowers and minerals to create natural shades and scents, while harmful parabens and emulsifiers have been replaced with earths own beeswax.

The results may be ground breaking, but the delicate nature of organic ingredients can pose challenges. ‘‘Due to the natural components, ingredients can differ from harvest to harvest,’’ states Kirsten, ‘‘this means that every item is like a hand made piece and has to be monitored for consistency.’’ This meticulous desire to reap the best from nature is reflected in Kirsten’s holistic approach to life and her philosophy that beauty is primarily achieved from within, through a balance of a healthy diet and exercise in order to produce ‘clean cells’, the foundations of a glowing complexion.

A lifelong passion for all things art and design informed the collaboration with acclaimed designer Marc Atlan, the man responsible for many Comme des Garçons and Helmut Lang creations, to produce the impossibly slick enameled silver compacts which offer a refillable and, therefore, sustainable system. The colour palette for the collection is neutral and universally flattering, designed to work on a wide variety of skin tones. ‘‘I have drawn on all my professional experience to find the perfect shades,’’ states Kirsten, ‘’I feel the strongest about my sense of what does and doesn’t work with colour.’’ Starting with her initial ‘tight knit kit’ there are plans for additions to the range. Next up is mascara and Kirsten is currently tackling the dilemmas of creating an organic foundation stick. ‘‘Ultimately what I wanted to achieve was an alternative that fused beautiful colour, texture and design with organic formulas. I think it’s the way forward.’’ Watch this space.

Stocked exclusively at SPACE NK and selected stores in Denmark.

www.kjaerweis.com

Words Emma Harding

SHARMADEAN REID: THE COOLEST GIRL IN TOWN

SHARMADEAN REID, FOUNDER OF HIP NEW NAIL BAR WAH NAILS, TALKS TO AGENT2’S  ASHLEY WALLIS ABOUT UNICORNS, DAVID BAILEY AND DALSTON…

Sharmadean Reid seems distracted. This is not surprising. To say she’s had a lot going on in her world recently would be an understatement.

Reid, 25, is sportswear editor of Arena Homme Plus, consultant to Nike, publisher of WAH magazine and founder of WAH nails- the new east London based nail bar.

We have been emailing back and forth for over a month. Me trying to pin her down. Sharmadean replying with abrupt, one line emails. “I’m away this week and back and forth working on Topshop.” Re Topshop: WAH has just expanded into central London opening a permanent pop-up shop in the Oxford Circus- mecca after their stint during London Fashion Week.

Eventually we decide on a date, and, after further exchanges, I ‘head east’ to meet her. I immediately spot her nails: “Japanese style white and iridescent glitter. It reminds me of unicorns.”

She decided to set up the nail salon in August 2009 “Because I was sick of rubbish nail salons in Dalston and expensive boring ones in central London.” Since then WAH nails has taken off in a big way, with Sharmadean featured in Vogue- as the business woman to watch in the next decade- and described as “arguably one of the coolest girls in town” by the New York Times.

I ask her how it felt to be shot by luminaries such as David Bailey on the Vogue shoot and Nick Knight for i-D’s anniversary issue.

“Both Nick knight and David Bailey were lovely and amazing so it’s an honour, but really I only do it to promote WAH nails and increase sales. I have a duty to my staff to keep it busy and fun.

“I have never thought of myself as a brand as such, but I am well aware that my life helps sell the nails which is why I still have a blog.”

WAH nails is the antithesis of your average in-out nail salon, described as “a new con­cept nail salon like no other. Bring­ing nail art, de­sign and tech­nol­o­gy trends from around the world into their ev­er-​evolv­ing East End Lon­don space; beau­ty, fash­ion, cul­ture and the arts have com­bined to make WAH the des­ti­na­tion for style savvy girls.”

Reid has single-handedly reinvented nail art and brought it into the mainstream. Pre-WAH nail art was perceived at best as a bit naff, and at worst as a bit tacky- now it’s ironic and edgy. She maintains, “It was always trendy to me and my friends. You can go into a ghetto nail shop and if you try hard you can communicate a good design to them- I got them to do a Dior double French before with great difficulty- but at WAH nails, good designs are the norm and we can all speak English. We also tap into nail trends or cool motifs like anchors and eyeballs. The most popular designs are the leopard print which comes in almost every colour.”

The salon has achieved worldwide recognition, with girls from Paris and New York dropping into the salon. I ask Reid whether she ever thought WAH nails would take off in such a big way. She says almost wearily: “Yes, I did otherwise I wouldn’t have invested my time, money and energy into it. It’s taken off because it’s completely different to anything else out there, from the pictures we have on walls, to the magazines we have on the shelves, to the music we play, to the nails we do.It’s popular because people want something new and individual.”

An average day in Reid’s busy world at the moment would be, “up, walk the dog, have coffee and croissant, tube to Old Street, maybe a meeting. Many phone calls en route liaising with staff, builders and suppliers. I’ll spend some time in the shop; have dinner with friends or fiancé, home. More work, on my blog, flyers, designing store features and finally bed. But the days often change.”

And when she’s not working? “Never not working. When I do get some time off I go to my in-laws to chill out or see my family in Wolverhampton.”

Originally from Wolverhampton, Reid moved to London in 2003 to study Fashion Communication and Promotion at Central Saint Martins. She decided to set up WAH in Dalston “because I’ve lived here for 6 years and my friends are still here. Most of the clients are cool local creative girls.”  The brand is so tied up with the East London scene I wonder if she plans to expand the WAH brand nationwide in the future. “Maybe just one more in West London. It’s very hard work and I feel I have achieved what I set out to do.”

Vintage magazines and art by some of those cool creative girls line the walls of the salon. Reid is “obsessed with magazines,” citing Interview, V, Vanity Fair and Gentlewoman as her favourites. “I like American magazines mainly. Oh and Paris Vogue. A website can’t tell you what 1993 was like, whereas an old copy of the face can.”

Named by The Independent as one of the fifteen people who will define the future of arts in Britain, does she feel like it’s no longer enough to be just one thing exclusively within the creative industry? “It’s not necessary to be able to do “everything to make it”, it just makes it easier. If you don’t have to rely on other people you can get things done much more quickly.

“In the future I want to concentrate on youth insight and consultancy and helping people with social and creative entrepreneurship.  Teenage girls fascinate me. Their thoughts, opinions, choices and attitudes.”

And her predictions for nails? Surprisingly, she says “Plain nails! More experimentation with colours for summer and then a return to embellished nail art again in winter…”

The future is bright for Sharmadean Reid. Perhaps even brighter than her nails.

Wah nails at Topshop: 020 7927 7844 or try the original at 420 Kingsland Road, Dalston: 020 7812 9889

wah-nails.com

Words Ashley Wallis

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