ZIAD GHANEM – THE CULT COUTURIER
“MY DESIGNS ARE LIKE WATCHING A HOLLYWOOD MUSICAL ON ACID”
This statement is fairly accurate when it comes to trying to describe Ziad Ghanem’s designs. Branded the ‘Cult Couturier’ for his eclectic mix of streetwear and couture, Ziad creates bespoke creations for clients as well as his ready-to-wear collections and his junior line, Maiden Britain. Working almost exclusively with recycled materials, he has quickly gathered a cult following and tremendous respect in the fashion industry. He has also collaborated with Topman and Firetrap and has worked alongside Random Bangle (aka accessories designer Russell Barratt), and can add Editor to his repertoire since taking the helm at Drama, a fashion and performance magazine available on the i-Phone. Here AGENT2’s Kay Weston speaks to the man himself about the fashion industry and why fur is ‘shit’.
How do you feel about your reputation as the ‘cult couturier’?
I feel good (about it), since I am not a fan of the word ‘Couture’. It gets so misused. My label is exclusive to certain markets and followers, and it will remain that way.
What made you decide to go into fashion as a career?
I always wanted it. I was born with it. I never made the choice, I just let it be.
Your designs are really adventurous. How do you come up with ideas and what inspires you?
London inspires me. People play a big part and the simple things in life can be very dramatic if we pay attention. I love Punks and Chavs.
Why did you decide to focus on producing sustainable and eco-friendly fashion?
Because at the start, I didn’t have money to buy new fabrics so I used what was in my flat, a bit like with the Gone with the Wind curtains dress. Then after that, I wanted to use whatever was available and charity shops can offer a lot of inspiration.
Where do you find the materials you recycle in your designs?
I shop at charity shops, friends send me unwanted clothes and I buy eco-friendly fabrics from a Brazilian company.
You were asked to produce some designs for cigarette packets. Why did you turn the offer down?
I hate smoking.
So do you think the fashion industry is, in general, unethical?
No, I think people mix things up. Fashion is a business. Capitalism is sometimes unethical. When gain is involved we make our own morality. I am anti-fur, fake or real. I wish people in fashion would stop wearing this shit.
You recently said you cast your models for their personalities, not just their looks. In an industry famed for its superficiality, is there room for personality?
I never force my clothes on people. I want to be inspired by the wearer. I like them to be happy, and understand what they are wearing. I like to work close to my models and share their ideas and thoughts. I refuse to put my clothes on some boring dummy.
Your A/W 10/11 collection is called Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds. Why did you choose that name? And what can we expect from the collection?
Mr Quayle, my friend’s father, came up with the name at Christmas dinner. He said that watching my designs is like watching a Hollywood musical on
acid. I wanted to express the glitz and the added glitter in my new collection, and I can see Lucy flying in the sky with diamonds.
Why did you choose to work with Immodesty Blaize (a burlesque artist) for the collection?
The collection is inspired by Fellini, circus and the show of burlesque. It is the art of undressing. Immodesty is intellectual and a great performer. I’m so lucky to have her in my show, I wanted a Burlesque performer and I was surprised when I got the best one in the world.
How did the collaboration with Firetrap come about?
Firetrap wanted a breath of fresh air in their label by collaborating with young designers. I wanted to experiment with denim with financial backing. It was a very great experience with a happy ending.
Why did you decide to focus on denim for the collaboration?
Denim does not crease and it has a thick skin. I wanted to use exciting garments to avoid wasting new fabrics.
Are there any designers you’re championing right now?
Everyone is a hero. I love Comme des Garcons and I respect (Azzedine) Alaia.
What’s the worst fashion mistake a person can make?
Fashion is in the eye of the beholder. I never follow fashion. I love clothes.
Words Kay Weston Images Ram Shergill
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