WUNDERKIND
Wunderkind made its catwalk debut at New York Fashion Week in autumn 2004 and has rapidly become a fashionista favourite. Founded by Potsdam-born Wolfgang Joop, famed for his Joop! fashion and cosmetics ranges, the label is a reflection of Joop’s vision of what a contemporary, sophisticated and independent woman wants in her wardrobe.
Wunderkind manages to strike a delicate balance between experimental and wearable clothing styles, with a tendency to aim for a more oversized fit. The signature Wunderkind style is described on the label’s website as “defined by a subtle play between structured, tailored, masculine pieces and soft, fluid feminine shapes in sensual, luxurious fabrics often enhanced by unexpected treatments.”
This is certainly true of Wunderkind’s A/W 09 collection, with a colour palette limited to various shades of black, white, red, green and blue, and focuses on geometric shapes such as the square and circle and broken surfaces. The fabrics are nothing less than luxurious with silk quilts, pure cashmere, wool, chiffon and Japanese silk all featuring heavily in the collection. A complex mix of influences has led to some truly unique designs and prints. The collection pays homage to Suprematism, the abstract art movement founded in 1915 in St Petersburg by Kazimir S. Malevich, with emphasis on expression of feeling rather than the physical appearance of objects.
The second obvious influence is that of wildlife. Images of the deer, cheetah and the stag are used in several designs, inspired by the photographic works of German artist George Törzs; most notably, his ‘Boy on Safari’ work. The two influences are merged to produce a striking yet complimentary contrast in imagery, with the garments crafted through traditional construction methods.
These conflicting influences embody the spirit of Wunderkind. It seeks to push boundaries, make people sit up and take notice, breathe new life into formulaic styles . Yet it never compromises on style or quality. As Joop himself told Women’s Wear Daily, “My concept is not to show too much of a concept. It’s all about spirit. I want to see heart blood, and that’s what people are missing. They don’t want so much calculation.”
Wunderkind has expanded fairly rapidly in recent times. The brand is sold in over 100 of the most exclusive stores in the world in more than 29 countries. Two Wunderkind stores opened in Germany in 2008, followed by the first international flagship store on Mount Street in London’s Mayfair in November last year. 2009 will see the opening of further flagship stores in capital cities across Europe and America.
It’s not just store openings that are expanding the brand. Wunderkind has ventured into new fashion territory recently, with handmade accessories designed to accompany the S/S 08 collection, and eyewear following in A/W 08.
But perhaps most excitingly, Wunderkind will also be launching a men’s collection for 2010. Described as ‘tradition meets young, free spirited Bohemia’, a strong Italian influence runs throughout the collection. First presented in June this year to press and international clients at the Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks, AGENT2 can reveal that the entirely-handmade collection will consist of eight contemporary styles of classic suit jackets, two styles of trousers, five classic shirt styles and eight casual jackets, including finest leather and cashmere knitwear, all of which are produced in a traditional Neapolitan factory. Fabrics for the collection include finest cotton, finished wool, washed and hand treated cotton, cotton-silk and silk, and patterns include stripes in various shapes, checks in summer colours, new techniques of batik painting on suits, colours spilled over incidentally and Trompe l’oeil. Retail prices for a suit will start at 3.000 euro.
Wunderkind may not be as popular as some of its founder’s other business ventures, but based on its catwalk success, it will definitely be rising above its cult status soon.
Words Kay Weston
THE FASHIONISTAHASSPOKEN.BLOGSPOT.COM
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