LAMIJA SULJEVIC INTERVIEW
INSPIRED BY THE YOUTH SHE NEVER HAD, THE WAR-TORN HOMELAND FROM WHICH SHE HAD TO FLEE AND THE HANDICRAFT HERITAGE OF HER ANCESTORS, LAMIJA SULJEVIC’S FIRST-EVER INDIVIDUAL COLLECTION IS SUITABLY NOSTALGIC, YET ALSO TOTALLY FORWARD THINKING – BECOMING OF A LADY WHO HERSELF HOPES TO ONE DAY TO FLY THE “SAFE” NEST OF STOCKHOLM FOR MORE PARISIAN CLIMES. AGENT2 MAGAZINE’S ALEX JACKSON DISCUSSES THE IMPORTANCE OF THE HANDMADE, CHILDHOOD AND “THE NEXT STEP” WITH THIS SWEDEN-BASED UP-AND-COMER
Looking at your FW/10 pieces there seems to be quite a strong Balkan influence, a sort of Byzantine-gypsy feel – and I can’t help but notice your name and the roots it hints at. Surely not a coincidence, can you elaborate?
Well I was born in Bosnia, but had to flee to Sweden during the war in 1992 when I was five. My inspiration for this collection was very personal, I believe it was my way of dealing with everything that has happened. It almost felt like this was my time to tell my story. Also, when my mother was young she actually had this bohemian, gypsy style. I kind of inhered it from her.
Does the collection have a title?
I don’t have titles; I work with a concept instead: Making sure that my garments are something more then just clothes on a hanger. I work with more than just design and the whole process of making my clothes for example I always want to make sure that my look book gets the right feeling. For this shoot, for instance, I also made shoes in paper and jewellery out of small coins, all by hand. I want to give a feeling to my customers, to give almost a little story-my story- so that they understand my inspirations and my process.
On your website you refer to “childhood” and the “playfulness” of youth – does this refer to the story you wish to tell? Why are these things so important to reflect in your work?
As I mentioned, I didn’t have a ‘normal’ childhood. When we came to Sweden we had to start over, we had nothing – only the clothes on our backs. I became almost a grown-up at five years old; I learned and struggled with things I know most of my friends and people around my age still don’t know anything about. Ironically, this ‘lost’ childhood has followed me and will probably follow me my entire life. Maybe that’s why I focus so much on this when I work, it’s my way of finding my youth and letting myself be that little girl that’s still somewhere inside me.
So when did you realise you could rediscover this lost period through designing?
I think it started when I was around 11 years old. I studied fashion design for three years in a small town called Växjö, later specialising in pattern design and tailoring in Stockholm at the Cutting Academy. When I was 17 I started my own fashion company with a friend. But last year I decided to move on, so this is my first collection under my own name.
You only use handcrafted techniques in your work so how does this process affect/influence your work and does it hint at a personal manifesto?
I feel so much nearer my hometown, a place called Foča, when I work with handicrafts. I have so many memories and traditions that involve such techniques. It maybe sounds weird, but I love the process of making my future by going back to my past. My crocheted pieces actually have a lot to do with my grandmother. She worked with luxurious handmade crafts her entire life and I learned at a very early age to value this, my clothes are the result. My mom taught me to knit when I was 11 and crochet came very naturally to me. I never use any patterns, I love to improvise.
With braiding, embroidery, pleats and laces being so central to your work, is texture almost more important to the overall look than form or colour etc?
Maybe not more important, but it’s just as important. If I can’t find the right fabric I usually change my patterns.
You currently produce one-of-a-kind pieces by appointment, which I imagine is a very personal way of working, is this integral to your philosophy as a clothes designer?
Yes, and I wish I could work like this always but I already feel like I need to move on to the next step. I will never work with mass production but I would like to work with more limited collections in the future. For me it’s important to get to know my customers, it’s almost like I need to know that the story will end well. My garments are almost like children and I need to find their parents.
How do you describe the Lamija Suljevic look?
New thinking. A bit crazy but always elegant. Everything that is beautiful but lost.
You bring up the “lost” again, is this another projection of yourself, of a sense of dislocation?
I’m Bosnian born and I think that power is stronger than anything else. I have been back to Foča only once. I visited my old apartment, it was emotional but I think necessary. My parents have an apartment in Sarajevo so I try to visit when I can. But I don’t know, I don’t think about it so much. Most of my friends are from Sweden and I have been here 17 years now!
I also notice that your website refers to “romantic Parisian visions,” so is Paris somewhere you see like yourself working as a designer in the future?
Yes, Paris feels like home. I feel a bit lost in Stockholm, I can work very well here but people in Sweden are mostly too ‘safe’. In Paris they have a totally different vision on how a women should dress and I really like everything about it and feel my personal style is very close so theirs.
Words Alex Jackson
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