INTERVIEW – LAURA THEISS

THE LITHUANIAN- BORN DESIGNER LAURA THEISS HAS BEEN BUILDING AN INTERNATIONAL PROFILE AS ONE OF THE MOST EXCITING NEW DESIGNERS ON THE SCENE RIGHT NOW, THANKS TO HER CREATIVE KNITWEAR DESIGNS. HAVING LIVED AND STUDIED IN HER HOME COUNTRY AND GERMANY, SHE IS NOW RESIDING IN LONDON FOLLOWING A STINT AT CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS. HERE SHE TALKS TO AGENT2 ABOUT HER UNEXPECTED SUCCESS.

Do you think living in three different countries has affected your approach to fashion?

Yes, very much so. In my work I mix together handcrafts from my home country, German practicality and London´s edginess.

What do you say is the biggest influences on your work?

Travelling, culture, the Far East and women of today. My last collection “The World, The Flesh and The Devil” was inspired by Samurai women from 12^th century in Japan and her similarity to today´s women. I let her travel on an imaginary journey from Tokyo to Shanghai, to Vilnius, Frankfurt, London. From each city I picked up different elements. For example, from Japan it was pleats and structure, from Shanghai it was colours and tassels. Vilnius inspired the crochet and stripes. In Frankfurt it was men’s tie fabric and with London it was tartan. The idea was to pay attention on globalization and post feminist women of today showing her girly side.

Why did you choose to focus on knitwear?

My passion for knitwear started at a very young age. I made my first piece, a crocheted tablecloth, when I was seven. In a way knitwear chose me, as it has always been around me ever since I can remember and our house was all decorated in knitted and crocheted cushions, pictures and toys. For me knitwear is comparable to my first language. It is easy to express myself through it. The best part of being knitwear designer is that I can create my own fabric just with a needle and yarn.

Do you find that concentrating on knitwear limits what you can design? Or does it make more adventurous?

Oh, it’s a big adventure! Imagine if you have 15 kg of yarn, all in different colours, and have to create a collection out of it. Knitwear is challenging as it is a slow process. I am making my own fabric and were no limits to my creativity. I can explore many new techniques and create interesting shapes.

Do you have a personal favorite piece from your collection?

The pleated cotton dress and the colourful tasseled hat. There are 700 handmade tassels in it. The hat is only catwalk accessory of course. Funnily enough it gained most attention in German press after the Createurope Academy Award 2009. There I was one of 29 finalists. It was in main online press as a photo of the day.

Does your own personal style affect what you design?

Not anymore. I learned not to design what I would wear myself. It works only for celebrity-designers. The collection has a long way to go until is ready and shown on the catwalk. From the first idea, research, sketches, garment experiments, to knitting, and finally styling. In all that process there is space for a personal taste, but there is no space for a personal style.

Would you ever consider working for the big houses, or would you prefer your own label?

During my time at St. Martins I saw myself working for a big brand. Following an exhibition after my graduation fashion show, some fashion magazines featured my work. Then I had another fashion show, was chosen for Createurope Designer Award Finals, Art-s-talkers best graduates 2009 book and some boutiques asked me to produce some of the pieces. It feels like I accidentally rolled into the fashion world. And I love it. Thanks to my degree in business, I think I could manage into the big world of fashion.

Would you say that you are obsessed with fashion?

What is obsessed with fashion? Let me think….well….I am crazy about yarn, I do crochet in the plane, and went over to Shanghai just to find the right trimmings. I am a junkie of that moment when the models walk down the catwalk, and I spend 24/7 thinking, searching, creating. Is that obsessed?

What is the best style tip you have ever been given?

Mix what can’t be mixed. In our second year we had sustainability competition at St. Martins. It was a group project. We wanted to raise awareness of child labour, as there are 158 million children engaged in child labour worldwide. Our created garments symbolized children’s need to play, toys and happiness. I have to mention that our group won the competition. During this project I researched about the sustainability issues in fashion and realized that actually even with little steps as a designer, I have the opportunity to try and change the world into a better place.

In which ways did you make your own design sustainable?

I am choosing the yarn very carefully, using most natural fibre. The quality of the production is the highest possible, and it’s made with lots of love.

Do you think the fashion industry pays enough attention to the ethical issues?

I think they do. But it is difficult not to fall into the fast and cheap production fashion cycle. Big brands have huge marketing costs to go with each collection. If there is no media presence, the consumer wouldn’t be interested in buying. It is definitely better than 10 years ago, but still there is a need to educate the consumer.

LAURATHEISS.COM or CONTACT

Words Kay Weston