SOHO CHIC AT KETTNER’S

THERE AREN’T MANY RESTAURANTS IN LONDON THAT HAVE AS MUCH HISTORY AND CLAIM TO FAME AS KETTNER’S OF SOHO. ONCE POPULAR WITH EDWARD VII, OSCAR WILDE AND AGATHA CHRISTIE, THE 19^THC RESTAURANT IS NOW BACK IN FULL FORCE AFTER A SUMPTUOUS REVAMP.

Originally opened in 1867 by Auguste Kettner, chef to Napoleon III, the restaurant fast became a favoured hangout for a number of important figures. Close to the stage doors of Soho, it was a popular and somewhat exclusive place to dine. So it’s no wonder that the recent refurbishment was aimed at sprucing Kettner’s back to its original self, celebrating the classic decor of its heyday.

Everything is elaborate and exudes a vintage chic, alluding to its rich and colourful past. The interior is light, luxurious and sparkles with chandeliers, candles and traditional lights which all contribute to a shabby-elegant style. Oversized, Parisian white-framed mirrors are hung decadently on the walls, and diners can huddle around traditional French-design tables and chairs. Through the centre of the main dining room, a slab of marble on ornate iron legs sweeps right through the centre, with comfy looking stools for visitors to perch on, and a smattering of domed, art-deco lamps illuminate the warmly lit space.

It’s warm and inviting, and it’s clear that every customer feels this. Think relaxed Parisian café, combined with gracious elegance of a well-designed and upmarket restaurant. And the downstairs restaurant isn’t all that’s on offer either. There are an endless maze of rooms of different sizes and purposes, to cater for all who passes through Kettner’s doors.

The pudding bar, for example, is French and is open for tea, a light lunch, an informal rendezvous or a late night treat and is always bursting at the seams with home-made cakes, tarts and other seductively naughty treats.

When I visited on a week night, the welcoming glow of Kettner’s entrance hall was quite delicious, and the hubbub of friendly chatter set the scene for a performance-themed evening.

Following a relaxed drink in the cosy champagne bar – which has one of the most extensive champagne lists I’ve ever seem, as well as a shiny brass bar and bookable nooks – we were politely ushered to our table in the main brassiere. I sat in the corner of the room in a high-backed wicker chair, complete with a peculiar but quirky ape-like character, which hung over me. I later found out this was Auguste the Big Handed Ape, Kettner’s mascot, of course! I should have known. As I faced out towards the restaurant, I wondered what more surprises were in store.

Known for its vibrant history of extravagant parties and soirees, the reformed Kettner’s successfully lived up to its bold reputation. Themed evenings, such as ‘Sing for your Supper’ themed evening that took place during our visit, makes the restaurant come alive with the colourful theatrical characters of London’s Theatre District and is reminiscent of a 1940s glamour and drama.

Although regular diners were welcomed to sample the restaurant’s culinary delights, artists of all sorts were invited to take a seat, eat, and then sing, dance, recite or simply mesmerise others with their chosen short performance.

Gathered around the middle marble bar, a group of young men and women, all dressed in period costume – complete with wigs, white make-up and red lips – began to flounce around, dancing a little, chatting a little, and engaging those who weren’t shy in conversation.

Then two ladies in 1940s’ clothing stood up from their table and began reading old diary excerpts. In the piano bar, the entertainment was a lot more musically themed, with a constant flow of performers taking centre stage to rapturous applause. It was quite a fascinating site to behold.

The food at Kettner’s is simple, fresh French cuisine – you’ll find favourites on there such as mussels, crisp duck confit and beef bourguignon. It’s all very good value with main courses starting at just over £10. But if it’s Paris you’re after, then don’t expect any less entertainment than Moulin Rouge. The delicious food thrown in with good measure, you’ll find it hard to go wrong in here.

KETTNERS.COM

Words Emma Zücker