POLITICS AND PRETTY THINGS

Fashion and politics aren’t usually two things that go hand-in-hand. But as the Obama’s arrived in London for the G20 summit last month, the media only wanted to know one thing: What would Michelle Obama be wearing?

When it comes to fashion and politics, men have it easy.  Suit and tie are of course the appropriate business attire, and you can’t go far wrong with a bespoke or designer suit. For the women, however, it’s a fashion minefield. Put a step wrong and chose a bad outfit and not only will you be lambasted in the media, but you could find your whole reputation in tatters.

Recently the media has preoccupied itself almost obsessively with the outfits of the first ladies. Every picture of a politician’s wife, whether making a public appearance at an event, shopping or on holiday, is pored over and scrutinised in much the same way as a low-end tabloid examines a pap shot of a Z-list celebrity, looking for a patch of cellulite. Only this isn’t a gossip magazine we’re talking about; its style bibles like Vogue and national newspapers who are dedicating column inches to the likes of Carla Bruni-Sarkozy or Michelle Obama. The New York Times even ran a quiz on first lady fashion on its website in 2009, such is public interest in the styles of the first ladies.

In the past, when it came to politics, the unwritten rule was “the more conservative, the better”.  Most women in politics have to stick to a similar dress code to their male counterparts; Angela Merkel for example is nearly always in a trouser suit. But the first ladies have more scope to experiment as they take more of a backseat in politics or at least political decisions. Many work themselves as barristers and have high-powered jobs, so it follows that their images will reflect an element of ‘power dressing’, but it still retains femininity and personality. Think smart and tailored, yet with a quirky edge.

The current crop of first ladies are being hailed as fashion icons, the women who inspire our generation. It would certainly seem to be the case that over the years, the style of the first ladies has changed significantly. After the initial stir created by Jackie Kennedy and her trademark style, the first lady style hit a slump and was followed by a much more conservative look. The first ladies stayed well away from the dressing-up box and instead had a much more severe style. Pat Nixon is one example; many wives adopted an almost masculine look. However, one noteworthy difference is of course the age gap.

The first ladies are now younger than ever, and this does help when experimenting with style. Michelle Obama is much more Carrie Bradshaw than Cherie Blair. But can a politician’s wife really be classified as a fashion icon in the same way as, say, Victoria Beckham?

First ladies have an attainable look in that they aren’t supermodels, rather women with ordinary figures and busy lifestyles in much the same way as anyone else. They are fully grown women who know what suits them and aren’t caught up following the latest fashions. In many ways they are the antithesis to a trend-setter. They stick to what they know, and more importantly what works for them. It’s dressing to impress, but not as we know it. It’s not for impressing men or winning fashion kudos. It’s part of an image where clothes are an extension of what they represent. But as middle-aged women with normal proportions, they are much easier to identify with fashion-wise than the waif like models in magazines. They are also very vocal and passionate about their causes, which makes them easier for women to relate to and empathise with.  Much more so than the likes of Kate Moss, who remains mute and rarely gives interviews.

If there is one first lady aside from Jackie Kennedy who has been unanimously labelled a fashion icon, it is undoubtedly Michelle Obama. Vanity Fair and People magazines have listed her amongst the best dressed women in the world and she graced the cover of Vogue in March this year, complete with a photo spread inside the magazine itself. Every first lady since Lou Hoover (apart from Bess Truman) has featured inside Vogue, but only Michelle and Hilary Clinton have been shot for the cover.

According to a story from the Associated Press, Michelle chose her own clothes for the shoot. Normally editors select the outfits for cover models, or they work as advisers, but as editor-at-large Andre Leon Talley said, “She doesn’t need any help. She loves fashion and knows what works for her. She’s never had a conversation with me about ‘what do you think?’ or ‘how does this look?’” According to the same story, Michelle admitted that she was aware of how her outfit choices were being scrutinised. “I’m not going to pretend that I don’t care about it. But I also have to be practical. In the end, someone will always not like what you wear. People just have different tastes.”

That may well be, but Michelle Obama has little cause for concern. British Vogue editor Alexandra Schulman has declared that the British are “completely in love” with Michelle, and admits herself that she’s a fan of her glamorous wardrobe. And it seems the fashion elite aren’t the only ones singing her praises. It would appear Joe public is also captivated by her style, as the $298 Crystal Constellation Cardigan that she wore during the G-20 summit sold out at American fashion store J.Crew almost immediately. A book is currently being written on her style, and Jason Wu, the designer of her inauguration gown, has described her as “a stimulation package for the industry.”

The other side to this is of course the criticisms that have been levelled at Michelle Obama for choosing to concentrate on her image and wardrobe rather than furthering her causes. This poses the question of whether fashion has a place in politics at all. Carla Bruni, whose trademark classic French style has often been compared unfavourably to Michelle Obama’s, has been the subject of similar accusations. But it seems to be a no-win situation.

British first ladies by comparison have long been viewed as rather dowdy and anything but fashionable. Michelle Obama’s meeting with Sarah Brown on the second day of the G20 Summit was widely reported in the press, with Sarah’s outfit receiving criticism for its bad fit. She is said to much prefer shopping on the British high street than in designer stores, but the Telegraph revealed earlier this month that she has resorted to renting designer pieces for big events (including a £9,000 top worn during G20) at 10% of their retail price, which she pays herself, in a bid to keep up with the likes of Michelle and Carla in the glamour stakes. It is perhaps a sign that even if the first ladies have their critics, how they dress is playing an ever-increasing role in their image. These women are the first ladies of fashion.

Words: Kay Weston