AGENT2 TALKS TO THE ‘DARK HORSE’ OF FASHION, MARKO MITANOVSKI

SERBIAN DESIGNER MARKO MITANOVSKI’S DRAMATIC, THEATRICAL DESIGNS GOT HIM NOTICED FOR ALL THE RIGHT REASONS DURING LONDON FASHION WEEK THIS YEAR, CEMENTING HIS STATUS AS ONE OF THE BEST EMERGING NEW TALENTS IN FASHION. BACK IN 2008 HE WAS AWARDED ‘BEST YOUNG DESIGNER’ AT BELGRADE FASHION WEEK AND HIS REPUTATION AS THE DARK HORSE OF FASHION HAS BEEN STEADILY GROWING EVER SINCE. HERE HE TALKS TO AGENT2 ABOUT HIS DARKLY ENTHRALLING ‘LADY MACBETH’ COLLECTION AND THE INSPIRATION BEHIND HIS DESIGNS.

You’ve shown at Belgrade Fashion Week and Vauxhall Talent Scout.  What was that like?

Taking part at the London Fashion Week has helped quite a lot in furthering my career, especially since the reactions to my collection in London were extremely good. The whole concept of London Fashion Week is very much different from Belgrade Fashion Week. I like the way the audience in London reacts to shows; spontaneously, without hesitation, sometimes overwhelmingly, whether they like what is presented to them or not, regardless of whether they are viewing the collection of the established or a new designer. In Belgrade, once you establish yourself as a respectable designer, you will receive the same treatment later on regardless of the development or successes. I don’t believe that is stimulating for the designer.

Have reactions to your collection been different in London than in Belgrade?

I think that reactions were very good on both accounts, with the difference that my design sensibility and style are more London that Belgrade inclined. Fashion market in Belgrade dictates more commercial approach where in London you have more relaxed attitude and freedom to express yourself through your work.

Is it difficult for designers in Eastern Europe to make a name for themselves in fashion?

I think that working hard, with having a real talent are attributes that are always recognized regardless of where you are from. You do need a lot of patience for the right things to happen at the right time.

Would you ever consider relocating to Paris or London?

I already have a presence in London. My last collection is based there for promotions and sales. I do plan to take my collection to Paris in the near future as well.

Your designs are very avant-garde, almost like works of art; do you design for a certain kind of woman?

When I design new collection I mainly concentrate on the concept and inspiration while trying to tell the story. Therefore, I am not designing costumes to be worn by particular kind of women but I am trying to stay true to the story that has inspired the particular line.

Do you try to make a statement or tell a story with your designs?  If so, what?

Of course. It all depends on the inspiration and the story I am trying to tell. Every collection I am working on has a very strong subtext that would lose its meaning if I was to start explaining it. It is the same with literature. Finding the meaning and understanding the piece offered is individual and very private. There is no ‘common angle’ for understanding the art, whether we are talking about poetry or fashion collection.

Your designs are very intricate with a lot of attention to detail.  How long does it take to design and create a piece?

I don’t like to work and create under stress or in haste. I need time to seek and understand the material, I play with textures and forms. So, it all takes around three to four months of intensive work.

Your designs were influenced by Renaissance and Elizabethan costume. Why did you choose these as themes for the collection? Are they periods that you have a personal interest in?

I have found tippet form quite inspirational and interesting to play with and style. I transported elements of Renaissance, redesigned and multiplied them. I am impressed by forms unpinned in structure.  For my last collection multiple tippet was used quite effectively in trying to get that effect.  I viewed Lady Macbeth collection through two prisms. In form it is the replica of the Renaissance costume and in the colour and atmosphere my vision of Shakespeare’s Lady Macbeth character. That was the inspiration for my last collection. In the future ones I will be dealing with themes that seem most intriguing at the time.

What will the next collection be like?

I hope you will be able to view it and judge it for yourself.

Are there any designers you admire?

I admire young London designers like Iris Van Herpen and Craig Lawrence. They are amazingly talented.

Words by Kay Weston – thefashionistahaspoken.blogspot.com

Images Anne Marie Michel  Hair Nina Butkovich-Budden  Make-up Issidora  Styling Marko Mitanovski & Ronitt Bourmad  Model Angie Ng

MARKOMITANOVSKI.COM