BLACK IS BEAUTIFUL – AFRO HAIR AND BEAUTY SHOW 2010

OVER THE SPRING BANK HOLIDAY THE 29^TH ANNUAL AFRO HAIR AND BEAUTY SHOW WAS HELD AT THE CONTEMPORARY BUSINESS DESIGN CENTRE, ISLINGTON, LONDON. THE BLACK HAIR AND BEAUTY INDUSTRY IS WORTH MILLIONS OF POUNDS YEAR, YET GO INTO ANY MAINSTREAM BEAUTY OUTLET AND YOU’LL BE HARD PUSHED TO FIND SPECIFIC RANGES FOR NON-WHITES. AS A RESULT OF THIS UNDER-REPRESENTATION, EACH YEAR HUNDREDS ‘ETHNICALLY FOCUSED’ COMPANIES BECOME EXHIBITORS AND SET UP STALL PROMOTING PRODUCTS THAT, BY AND LARGE, ARE AIMED AT THE EVER GROWING AFRO-CARIBBEAN/BLACK/MIXED CONSUMER POPULATION.

This year the show’s buzzword was diversity. Gone are the days when the choice of hair style for women of colour was limited to wearing your chemically straightened hair either long or short. Today ‘Relaxer’ packs are still sold by the truck-load but we’re more likely than ever before to spot a woman of colour sporting her ‘natural’ hair. Subsequently, this year a greater emphasis was placed on natural hair options, which shone with ingenuity, and exhibitors were dedicated to spilling natures secret’s to incredibly healthy hair. A programme of seminars provided the opportunity to learn via the conventional methods; and Stop Watch Stylist competitions, challenged hairdressers to create inventive hair designs within a strict fifteen minute time slot to prove just how easy it is to tame a dense mass of afro hair, and win the approval of the celebrity judges in attendance.

Dyhema from the Southeast London salon, LocsTafari, specialises in ‘Locs’ and natural hair grooming, inspired by the legacy of her African heritage and upbringing. Whether it’s an Afro, Micro Thin Locs or organically grown Jumbo Locs her approach is the same; natural oils, blessed hands and hearts of love.

To create ‘Locs’ Dyhema explains that “several techniques can be used, so many, [laughs] just so many. You can use your fingers to twist sections of hair into ‘Locs’.  You can get a flannel or woolly jumper and rub round in circles around your head – you’lll start to notice little ‘Loc’ balls forming. The most common technique is simply by doing it organically. Just leaving your hair and it’ll eventually mat together and form ‘loc’s on their own. Or there’s ‘Interlocking’ which involves using a needle to hook sections of hair together.”

She found herself within the professional ‘Loctitian’ circle when she “started just doing favours for friends. Then I realised that my hair diary was more hectic than my work diary. It’s something that I enjoy doing, so I decided to make a career out of it. It’s amazing how little is known about a natural hair style so it gives me a chance to help people express themselves.”

When asked whether she would advise going to the ‘Loctitian’ often, or just let the ‘Locs’ do their own thing, she continued: “It depends totally on the individual. Some people in the corporate world would go to the salon more often because they want to keep the ‘sharp’, ‘fresh’ look. They might need to go to the salon more often than someone is an artist. What I do say though, is that in life, too much of one thing is not bad thing. You can kind of over-do ‘Locs’ as constantly re- twisting the ‘Locs’ can make them weak, so I would advise grooming them not more than once every two weeks.”

Despite the attendance of exhibitors championing natural hair, the promotion of human and synthetic false hair is still the main draw for the thousands of visitors to the Afro Hair and Beauty Show.

Exhibitor ‘Neferlady’ boasts of supplying “100% Virgin Natural Brazilian and Malaysian Hair from 10 – 24 inches”, ‘Lace Wig Elegance’ peddles “Brazilian, Indian, Peruvian, and Malaysian hair that is 100% virgin, guaranteed tangle free that moves naturally”, ‘Bullfinch International Ltd’ are manufacturers of “luxurious, flowing 100% Virgin Remy Indian Human Hair”. It is exactly this massive demand for straight false-hair alternatives that inspired award-winning comedian and filmmaker, Chris Rock, to investigate this pandemic in his hilarious Fall 2009 documentary, Good Hair, Chris visits beauty salons and hairstyling battles, much like those of the Afro Hair and Beauty Show; but also visits scientific laboratories and Indian temples to explore the way hairstyles impact the activities, pocketbooks, sexual relationships, and self-esteem of the black community. The film was heavily promoted at the event.

The show also provided an opportunity to observe the beautiful models and fabulous designs from some of the finest UK designers of Afro-Caribbean/Black/Mixed heritage and be bowled over by street dance routines choreographed and performed by the stars of the latest dance movie StreetDance. ‘Tamarind Books’, the leading independent publisher of multicultural picture books held a creative writing workshop on writing multicultural stories for children and teens and discussed the importance of representing of black children in literature.

The Bank Holiday Weekend was brought to a close with the amazing ‘Sensationnel Icon’ competition. The most creative hair designers from around the country, each created a collection of elaborate masterpieces showcasing their visions in colour, shape and astounding workmanship. The winner was Angela Plummer of Sour2Sweet in North London who knitted and plaited the hair extensions into millinery inspired creations to music by Grace Jones.

Words and images Almaz Ohene