ROSSO – DINING THAT WON’T LEAVE YOU SEEING RED
SITUATED ON MANCHESTER’S PRESTIGIOUS KING STREET, ROSSO HAS RECEIVED A SOMEWHAT LUKEWARM RECEPTION TO THE CITY’S EVER GROWING PORTFOLIO OF ITALIAN RESTAURANTS. THIS IS NOT TO SAY THERE HASN’T BEEN A GREAT DEAL OF INTEREST SURROUNDING IT; WITH THE CO-OWNER BEING MANCHESTER UNITED STAR RIO FERDINAND AND THE COUNTLESS STORIES CIRCULATING OF CELEBRITY SIGHTINGS. WOULD THE POSSIBILITY OF DINING IN THE SAME ROOM AS BILLY ZANE (AS SEEN ON THEIR WEBSITE) BE ENOUGH TO RATE ROSSO AMONGST MANCHESTER’S MANY CREDIBLE EATERIES? HAD THEIR SEVEN MONTHS OF OPENING ALLOWED FOR ANY TEETHING PROBLEMS TO BE SMOOTHED OUT? AGENT2 WENT TO SEE FOR ITSELF.
On entry, my guest and I passed through a beautiful, grand marble archway and were warmly greeted by the maitre d’ (Italian of course). En-route to our table we bypassed an impressive looking bar arrangement, which offered a wide range of fashionable Bellinis and cocktails. Had we arrived a little earlier we would certainly have indulged, but we had a seven thirty booking to stick to and more importantly we had to answer the grumbling cries from our empty stomachs. First impressions; a lot of thought had obviously been put into the decor. Themes of black, white and red running throughout. It certainly had the glamour factor yet was subtle enough to maintain the charm and elegance that this grade II listed building positively oozes. Modern, classic furnishings that pay an element of respect to over a century of history seen within these walls. My only concern was the distance between our table for two and our neighbour’s. However, this concern was only momentary as there proved to be plenty of room once we were seated.
This evening we were in the mood for red wine. With no forethought to our choice of food we went straight in. Forget the rules – tonight, red wine would suit any dish we choose. An impressive wine list on offer we were spoilt for choice. A bottle of house wine will cost you a reasonable £15.95 but if you’re feeling frivolous you could opt for a vintage 2006 Solaia Antinori Cabernet Sauvignon at a mere £265. We were recommended the Valpolicella ‘Ripassa’ (£27.95). Rich, velvety and intense fruity flavours; it hit the spot to say the least.
My guest and I were pleasantly surprised by the ambience. A steady stream of customers flowed through the doors creating a definite buzz about the place. An interesting mix of clientele readied themselves for experiencing, “an authentic example of Italian regional culinary tastes”. Time to put their mission statement to the test.
So to the food.
As you might expect from an up market establishment such as this, the menu is by no means simple. An extensive array of pizzas, pastas, meat and fish dishes was to be trawled through. A passing waiter gave us a glimpse of a delicious looking pizza, which was destined for another table. Not even reaching the £10 mark for the top end Pizza Marinara, this is surely a bargain for a quality, generously topped pizza. However, we were to venture deeper into the menu. Starters ranging from the Bruscetta con Melanzane (£3.95) to the Gamberoni al’Aglio (king prawns – £8.50) again, very reasonably priced. I chose the Terrina alla Rosso (chicken liver parfait to you and I – £6.75) and my guest decided on the prawn cocktail. A short time passed allowing us to sip on the wine until our starters arrived.
We were both taken back a little as to how busy and perhaps overcrowded our plates looked. Nevertheless we continued and the food was undoubtedly delicious. My parfait was smooth and creamy, served with Tuscan toast, red onion marmalade and a salad garnish. I got the feeling the salad was there merely to brighten up the dish. However, the heavy dressing seemed a little unnecessary as it overwhelmed the powerful combination of sweet and savoury from the parfait and red onion. The prawn cocktail again seemed a little over-complicated. Served in half a melon with star fruit and strawberry garnish the presentation seemed a little dated, perhaps better received in the 70′s or in a beachside restaurant in the Caribbean. The flavours however, were well and truly present.
Mains start at £8.25 for a traditional Tagliatelle Bolognese through to the 8oz fillet steak at £21.95. A specials menu was also available which was almost as large as the main menu. Being a fan of Halibut I was drawn to the Halibut All’agguato (£17.95) from the specials. Sat on a bed of wilted spinach and drizzled with langoustine bisque, this was the highlight of the meal. Beautifully meaty and moist and served with a side of sautéed potatoes as recommended by our waiter. The modest flavour from the bisque brought the whole dish together. My guest chose the spaghetti with lobster, in a creamy tomato and basil sauce. Confusingly, a whole lobster was positioned on top of the spaghetti. Bemused, she concluded that she would have to work a little harder than expected to retrieve the lobster meat. On closer inspection she found the shell to be empty, a sigh of relief followed. Maybe this was the chef’s way of proving that there was actually lobster in the spaghetti. We believe you. Plenty of sweet, tender chunks in a surprisingly spicy sauce with perfectly al dente pasta. A great dish.
The service was excellent throughout our visit. Friendly, informative and very attentive. These were true professional waiters. We rounded off our meal with a cheeseboard to share (£5.75). A selection of Italian cheeses with crackers, chutney and grapes. Perfect to swill down with the remainder of our wine. Other sweet options are available such as a Blueberry Crème Brulee (£4.50) and the Italian classic Tiramisu (£4.50).
Rosso appears to have taken heed to the criticism since its opening in October last year. Although I am not totally convinced this is traditional Italian cooking in its truest form, I am convinced that Rosso serves up quality food at reasonable prices. You can expect a great dining experience in beautiful surroundings and it is fair to say that they will be giving competing restaurants a run for their money.
43 Spring Gardens, Manchester
Words Dan Howell
