A RARE PEARL INDEED – HOLBORN’S PEARL RESTAURANT REVIEWED
IF YOU’VE NEVER BEEN TO PEARL RESTAURANT IN CENTRAL LONDON BEFORE, I CAN ASSURE YOU YOU’RE MISSING OUT – AND FOR SO MANY DIFFERENT REASONS. NOT ONLY IS THE MENU ONE OF THE MOST ASTOUNDINGLY BRILLIANT THINGS WE’VE SEEN HERE AT AGENT2 MAGAZINE, BUT THE DÉCOR, SURROUNDINGS AND AMBIENCE ARE QUITE BREATHTAKING.
But first, let me explain to you just what Pearl, part of the Chancery Court Hotel in High Holborn, is all about. The kitchen is lead by executive head chef, Jun Tanaka, who has featured in a host of cookery programmes and worked at countless Michelin star restaurants, and in this restaurant concentrates on a modern French-fusion menu.
The building was originally the grand banking hall of Pearl Assurance which was built in 1912. And it really is grand. The tremendously tall ceilings are supported by great big, marble pillars, all originals, as well as ornate cornicing and decadent coving.
What’s beautiful about the building is the original design being left untouched. Creators of Pearl Restaurant have developed a real juxtaposition in the addition of modern, chic and simple lines. It means the grandiose of the original building is softened by slightly more understated fixtures, fittings and furniture.
Although there is a reception area, bar and dining room, on closer inspection it becomes apparent that it’s one big, conjoined space which has been cleverly divided up into welcoming, seemingly separate areas.
My dining partner and I are eager to experience the impressive bar when we arrive, so pull up a stool and select our tipple. In this lounge area, rows of pearls hang from chrome rails which create subtle dividers between tables and booths, keeping the flow and openness unspoilt while adding a touch of privacy.
The long bar, which stretches almost the width of the room is polished and packed with rows of sparkly glasses and liqueur bottles, and the delicate sounds of a Nora Jones-esque live singer-pianist float up and down the room.
Just around the corner is the dining room, which is separated merely by the bar length, and still benefits from the live music, but transcends a whole different atmosphere – a little more intimate and private, even though the room is quite open plan. The carefully positioned waste-height dividers work their magic without diners even noticing.
On the tables, the slightly pearlescent charger plates swirled with sugary pink match the tiny vases and, I’m told, are commissioned by a local artist to ensure these ornaments are owned by no one but Pearl – an almost unnecessary touch, adding to the all-round beauty.
However, we may well be taken by the atmosphere and air of sophistication, but the reason we dine out is for the food. And on first catching sight of Pearl, my wish is that the cuisine will be as tantalising on the tongue as the restaurant is on the eye. I am not disappointed.
The menu gives a set price for one, two or three courses, but a lot more is offered here, including aperitifs and an amuse-bouche – a beetroot jelly with celeriac foam and chestnut shavings. Just the thought of it now makes my mouth water – the textures, colours and flavours are so perfectly balanced, it feels like utter concentration is essential to fully appreciate the tiny dish.
Starter is followed by the main course – a whole crispy duck, which serves two, hand carved at your table and presented with seasonal vegetables, plum sauce and onion fondant which is impossible to avoid being seduced by. An astounding course.
And then for dessert, why not combine lots of flavours – honey, apple, thyme, cheese – make them into ice cream, jelly and foam, and display them in tiny globules all over the plate? When combined in one mouthful, the flavours are nothing short of heaven.
This is a place which impresses in so many different ways which all combine to create a truly memorable dining experience. Vive la Pearl.
Words Emma Zücker
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