BRITISH WITH A THOROUGHLY MODERN TWIST

OVERLOOKING MANCHESTER’S CITY CENTRE AS THE RAIN POURS DOWN, THERE’S A CERTAIN AMOUNT OF PLEASURE INVOLVED IN BEING WARMLY TUCKED UP HERE. SKYHIGH, I CAN SEE FOR MILES AS PEOPLE SKIP OVER THE PUDDLES DESPERATE TO FIGHT THEIR WAY HOME FOR THE WEEKEND, BUT THE BEST WAY TO SPEND A FRIDAY NIGHT IS HERE: SEDUCTIVELY TOASTY, SUITABLY COMFORTED, WITH A LARGE GLASS OF WINE AND RICH, HONEST BRITISH FOOD. HERE, AT MANCHESTER’S THE MODERN RESTAURANT, THEY KNOW HOW TO DO FRIDAY NIGHTS BEST.

Scrambling in from the horrible wet weather, I didn’t much look like I was ready for a posh night out. Umbrella inside out, hair straggly and wet, high heels soggy, all I wanted was a towel and a cup of cocoa. Situated in the iconic Urbis building, I had preconceptions that this was going to be the Sex And The City venue of Manchester, with unpronounceable cocktails and the trendiest PR-reps this side of the Pennines. But after schwooping in the lift to the top floor, I discovered that The Modern’s focus was more on style and pleasure than the over-crowded, snobby Cristal laden bars you could find anywhere. They might not have had cocoa, but after stepping out into the dark, intimate bar, I was most certainly ready for that cocktail.

The contemporary stylish bar oozed class: dark wood tables, giant lampshades, electric candles, floor to ceiling windows all echoed a chic, minimalist feel. And yet it felt distinctly comfortable. Tables were spaced out and little booths lined its edges offering exquisite panoramic views of the city. A rare perspective, in one sweep you can see the Wheel all lit up, the colourful Printworks and late-night shoppers crawling through the Arndale.

Here in the serene quiet atmosphere of the spacious Urbis building, staring at the cocktail book, I couldn’t help but feel a guilty satisfaction, shaking the last drips of water from my hair, that we managed to escape the crowded storm outside.

The professionally made cocktails seemed effortlessly concocted, laced with a touch of class. The formal waiting service was charming and the drinks, deliciously subtle. The Jayne Mansfield (£9) strawberry, champagne and rum cocktail was a sweet, fresh and authentically fruity, aperitif to the rich food menu, whilst the New York Flip of whisky, port, egg, cream and sugar made a bold, strong statement to begin the evening.

Though the restaurant wasn’t bursting with character, it had an ambiance of peace and comfort that can’t often be found in a top-class restaurant on a Friday night. Rows of private tables and the calming mauve, grey and beige walls created an earthly feel, leaving the diners serenely chilled. The kitchen was kept hidden, opposing the trend of open-plan kitchens that has taken over modern-day restaurants, contributing to the welcomed peace.

Sipping from our giant glasses as we waited patiently for our traditional Lancastrian meals, it was a pleasant experience to enjoy each other’s company without shouting over loud chatter or having to share your conversation with your neighbouring diners, so close they might as well be sitting with you. The Modern certainly paid attention to its atmosphere and it, for one, works stylishly well.

Let’s not dismiss the food though. Recently awarded Restaurant of the Year 2009 at Manchester’s Food and Drink Festival, The Modern is known for its classic British meals created with locally quality sourced ingredients. And that’s exactly what we got.

Ingredients combined together to bring out each flavour, texture and taste. The seasonal menu means that the choices remain fresh and the meals suitably craved for. The warm duck salad with orange and croutons (£7.50) to start, is the perfect example. The salty duck cuts through the sharp oranges and is complimented by its rich berry sauce, honing in on the fresh ingredients of the season. The wild and rabbit terrine (£5.50) offered a unique alternative as a starter, that you don’t normally find gracing British menus.

The Roasted Yorkshire Venison (£18.50) was my personal favourite. The juicy succulent meat was presented on creamy potatoes, braised red cabbage and faggot, soaked in a rich blood red juniper sauce. The venison oozed just enough flavour to melt against the sweet berry sauce and pickled cabbage.

If you’re a meatie, then the Cheshire Rib Eye Steak (£22.50) should definitely be sampled. Unlike usual steaks that can often come chewy and unsatisfying, this chunky portion melted instantly in the mouth. Served medium rare, the thick steak was as succulent and juicy as meat can come. Its beef dripping chips offered just enough salty crunch and soft creamy middle to prove their home-made beginnings. Sharpness fell effortlessly against the untouched, delicious flavours of the beef, making this far more than your normal Steak and Chips.

Entirely contented with our rich, homely meals, we shouldn’t have had room for puddings, but seeing the desert menu, we suddenly did. Before we knew it, we were dipping into Dark Chocolate and Malt Whisky Tart (£5) and Apple and Blackberry Crumble (£5). Elegantly presented, the creamy deep dark chocolate tasted pure and luxuriously rich. The Cox, Pippin and Bramley apple and blackberry crumble was a fine example of the quality, unbeatable ingredients. Sweet chunky apples offered both texture and taste, a far cry from the sugary slop you might find in other restaurants.

With tummies full and taste buds pleased, The Modern certainly got our seal of approval. Its matchless city views and chilled-out ambiance are the perfect combination for a restaurant with elegant style, and that’s before the food comes out.

A narrow corridor of tables promises couples a private, cosy evening, but if you’re planning a party, it might not be lively enough for your liking. Shimmering candles, neutral colours and wine decanters clearly proves The Modern to be the place to eat if you’re on a date.

It doesn’t scream colour and it’s not elaborately detailed but then its focus is clearly on its food. And on this subject, there is no detail left untouched. Stylish and delicious as British recipes should be, The Modern well-deserved its award, celebrating our food, our tastes and our heritage.

Watching the rain slowly drip down the window panes circled around us, you can see all that our region has to offer. Except of course, one of the best.

THEMODERNMCR.CO.UK

Words Natasha Al-Atassi