LFW AUTUMN/WINTER 2012: FYODOR GOLAN
THE CREATIVE LABEL FYODOR GOLAN MADE THEIR DEBUT IN SOMERSET HOUSE WITH AN ASTONISHING COLLECTION INSPIRED BY THE STORY OF ANASTASIA, THE ROMANV’S FAMILY MISSING DAUGHTER, WHO ESCAPED FROM HER ROYAL LIFE. THE DUO (FYODOR PODGORNY AND GOLAN FRYDMAN) HAS CONNECTED ANASTASIA’S MYTH WITH INSECTS, AS THEY ALSO CHANGE THEMSELVES FOR PROTECTION.
Using traditional weaving techniques, luxurious Mongolian velvets and lamb furs, Fyodor’s collection creates a magic and extravagant universe of striking and fragile silhouettes and sculpted lines that definitely have the “wow” factor.
The key pieces were long evening gowns that highlight the waist and coats in fur and leather in bright green, red, black and white, in a collection that breathes pure luxury, elegance and glamour.
Particularly captivating were also the sharp nose rings wore by the models and the eye make-up, both inspired by Ethel Granger.
The collection is available in selected boutiques worldwide: Harvey Nichols UK, Front Row Beirut and Alan Journo Milan, amongst others.
Check out the AGENT2 Facebook page for more images from the show.
Words Veronica Carpio Martin Images Dan Harley
LFW AUTUMN/WINTER 2012: FLORIAN JAYET
SHOES IN ALL SHAPES (ANKLE BOOTS, PLATFORMS, METALLIC HEELS WITH SKULLS, HEEL LESS WEDGES) WERE THE STAR IN FLORIAN JAYET’S FUTURISTIC COLLECTION INSPIRED BY TRIBES AND CIVILIZATIONS OF THE PAST.
The “office-look-with-a-tribal-twist” created structured and contemporary silhouettes for a woman who wants to feel stylish, confident and powerful.
Earthy tones such as grey, light green and blue have been combined with draping and pleating techniques in a collection were the main highlights were high-waisted skirts and trousers combined with colourful shirts, leggings with tribal prints and a striking silver gown accessorized with facial jewellery, reminiscent of a burka.
Metallic nails and oversized rings completed a look, influenced by McQueen which mixes past and future creating edgy and sophisticated designs.
Check out the AGENT2 Facebook page for more images from the show.
Words Veronica Carpio Martin Images Dan Harley
LFW AUTUMN/WINTER 2012: INBAR SPECTOR
ISRAELI DESIGNER INBAR SPECTOR OFFERED A TRULY SPLENDOROUS COLLECTION INSPIRED BY ESCAPISM AND THE WAY OF TRYING TO CHANGE OUR BODY TO REACH WHAT WE SEE AS IDEAL.
The catwalk opened with a model wearing extravagant jewellery over the face in gold perforated leather trousers.
Inbar’s dramatic signature style can be seen in the use of rich fabrics such as lace, silk and ruffles that combined with avant-garde silhouettes and complex constructions created a stunningly elaborated cutting-edge look.
Think of circus, clowns, fantasy, decadence, dreams, utopia… Inbar’s collection is as innovative, exquisite and creative as you can get.
Each outfit was a total masterpiece, specially the oversized jackets and coats combined with puffy skirts, the metallic body suits and the long evening gowns.
The colour palette included pastel colours such as smoky pink, light green and nude that mixed with black and gold created a magical and surrealist atmosphere.
The result was a spectacular collection designed for a woman who wants to escape from any type of conformism, break the rules and show her most outrageous side.
The audience couldn’t stop clapping and we definitely know why…
The headpieces were designed, especially for this collection, by Lara Jensen. In the future, Inbar is planning to launch a menswear and accessories collection.
Check out the AGENT2 Facebook page for more images from the show.
Words Veronica Carpio Martin Images Dan Harley
MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK MADRID PART 2
THE LAST TWO DAYS OF MBFWM KEPT THE EXCITEMENT UP AS SOME OF THE MOST RENOWNED DESIGNERS IN SPAIN PRESENTED THEIR LATEST COLLECTIONS FOR AUTUMN/WINTER 2012-13.
Once again, Venezuelan designer Hannibal Laguna vowed the audience with an exquisite collection of spectacular evening dresses in silk organza, embroidery, burned feathers and lace. Black, the predominant colour in most of his pieces, was accompanied by gold and bronze in a collection inspired by the work of the Spanish painter Julio Romero de Torres. The result was a sophisticated and elegant collection that perfectly reflected the delicacy and sensuality of the Spanish woman. Without a doubt, the best collection of MBFWM. The show was also the perfect excuse to celebrate the launch of Hannibal’s new online boutique.
Davidelfin’s collection, “Will”, presented simple and elegant silhouettes in black, white and grey in a kind of office-look-with-a-twist. High-waisted skirts and tight dresses got complemented by zips, thin belts, Louboutin high-heels and bags made with oxygen tubes from labs. The fashion show closed with the performance of the Spanish singers Alaska, Mario Vaquerizo and Bimba Bose, who created the soundtrack exclusively for this collection.
Ana Locking’s collection, “Time Capsule”, comes back to the USA’s golden age of the 1920s that led to the Great Depression of the 1930s, linking it with our present economic crisis. Structured long white and black dresses, straight v-necks and jackets with geometrical cuts were the star pieces in a collection inspired by Art Deco for a woman who wants to feel sophisticated and glamorous without taking too may risks. The collection had a more commercial feeling than previous seasons due to the awareness of our difficult economic times.
To commemorate the tenth anniversary of the launch of his first fashion collection, Ion Fiz has partnered with Swarovski elements creating ten different colours, fabrics and silhouettes for strong and powerful women and men who want to be noticed wherever they go. For the daytime, Ion’s look is all about aviator sunglasses and hats, oversized bags, tulip skirts and 40’s style shirts. But the night had the last word with marvellous evening gowns in silk and satin with Swarovski crystals that embrace the feminine form in the most delicate way.
Inspired by big cosmopolitan cities, Kina Fernandez presented a chic collection that had a very down-to-earth and urban feel, where the main highlights were oversized coats, high-waisted trousers and knee-length skirts in black, dark orange and grey. The final part got glamed up with 40s style dresses full of sophistication, style and femininity.
Lady Gaga is a huge fan of her corsets and we definitely can see why. Think of 50’s New York, jazz clubs, Hollywood starlets, burlesque, haute couture, red carpet, luxury, fantasy, elegance… Maya Hansen is as provocative and striking as you can get. Her key piece, the corset, has been combined this time with long couture skirts and high-waisted trousers, that alongside with leather gloves, bows and Swarovski crystals, create a unique and powerful look for the ultimate femme fatale in her purest form.
Maria Barros showcased a mysterious and exciting collection that opens the doors to her story, her world. Models in striking long grey wigs presented enigmatic outfits that had a touch of nostalgia and austere elegance. Wrapped mini skirts and dresses accessorized with maxi-belts and black leather gloves were the key designs, featuring delicate and feminine silhouettes.
Toton Comella (TCN) mixed colourful lingerie with casual wear in a collection where hats, pyjama-style trousers, oversized jumpers, waistcoats and tweed mini shorts where the main highlights. TCN’s designs have a school-girl-meets-cool-granny style for women who want to wear comfortable clothes without losing their chicness.
To wrap up in style, Miguel Marinero closed Madrid Fashion Week with a very personal collection that paid tribute to the painter Gustav Klimt. Models with paintings as hats opened the catwalk in a collection characterized by the use of elegant and colourful fur coats, jackets made of soft glace lamb and leather corsets. Camel, turquoise blue and purple were the key colours in designs that breathe luxury, creativity and sensuality.
Words Veronica Carpio Martin Images Dan Harley and Getty Images
MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK MADRID PART 1
LONDON? PARIS? NEW YORK? MILAN? NO, IT´S MADRID FASHION WEEK BABY! SPANISH FASHION HAS COME BACK THIS YEAR WITH A NEW NAME, MERCEDES-BENZ MADRID FASHION WEEK (MBFWM), TO CONFIRM ITS STATUS AS THE BIGGEST AND MOST IMPORTANT SHOWCASE OF SPANISH FASHION AND STAMP ITS PRESENCE ON THE INTERNATIONAL MAP.
44 designers presented their creative ideas to the fashion world at the spectacular venue Feria de Madrid. More than just a series of catwalks, MBFWM is a visually stunning extravaganza where the most influential fashion magazines and brands have come together to create a unique show.
In different stands, we could see Spanish Vogue delicately crafting fashionable t-shirts, Hola! (the Spanish version of Hello!) inviting you to be photographed like a celebrity, L’Oreal bringing you insider tips about the latest make up and beauty products, and the kissing room, courtesy of Absolut Vodka, where designers welcomed their most exclusive guests after presenting their collections.
The fashion show was inaugurated by the Galician designer, Roberto Verino, who showcased a seductive collection inspired by the artistic, intellectual and bohemian world of New York in the 1970s. The main highlights were plastic and transparent trench coats to cover you in style on a rainy day, glamorous Great-Gatsby style cocktail dresses in black with embellishments, stunning fur coats with a touch of lace and beadwork and velvet grey jackets for men, reminiscent of American gangsters.
Jesus del Pozo looked at the Middle East to present a discreet collection where the main pieces were square ponchos, abayas, goatskin coats and jackets, and mermaid-style dresses for a woman who doesn´t want to show off too much and prefers to hide her curves with stylish and simple lines. The colour palette is made of undefined shades in grey, brown, dark blue and emerald green, which combined with a mixture of textures such as satin, organza and wool, creates an air of mysticism, nostalgia and escapism.
Francis Montesinos´s collection took us into a journey between tradition and innovation, past and future whose key pieces were striking evening gowns with flowery details and vaporous textures and stunning mini dresses in black and cream accessorized with long leather gloves. The result is a celebration of fashion, hand-craft work and art.
The usually flamboyant duo Victorio & Luchino presented a more austere collection inspired by the ambiance of the 1950’s and 60’s. Refined materials such as mink fur and velvet have been used to create a delicate and romantic look for “the girl next door”. Oversized fur pockets, 60s style boots and straight cropped jackets were the key pieces in a collection that had a very wintery feeling.
Elisa Palomino’s collection, “Winter Bloom”, paid tribute to cutting-edge icons such as Edith Sitwall and Elsie de Wolfe, to create an extravagant and surrealist style, with oriental touches, that celebrates glamour, eccentricity and luxury. The main highlights were stunning long gowns in vibrant reds and pinks, that adorned with pearls, feathers, brooches and floral headwear, created a very sophisticated and dream-like look. Elisa will also present her collection during London Fashion Week.
Argentinean designer Roberto Torretta presented a chic collection where he has mixed mid 20th-century feminine purity with futuristic silhouettes creating a “retro-future” feel. Dresses in different lengths and shapes were the key pieces in a collection characterized by raglan sleeves, leather gloves and block colours. Roberto creates a sporty and modern look for daywear, while for the evening his designs transform into vaporous long dresses that ooze glamour and sophistication.
Catalan designer Andres Sarda brought back the “Moulin Rouge spirit” with a very sensual and seductive collection for confident women who dare to show off their sexier side. Dance with me! is a celebration of the cabaret world where luxurious fabrics such as haute couture lace, satin and silk are combined with black, red and white colours creating spectacular pieces that leave no one indifferent.
Miguel Palacio showcased an innovative collection inspired by Art Deco where the dress again is the key piece of clothing for a confident woman that wants to show off her curves and female power. Heavy materials such as wool and velvet are combined with the lighter silk and satin, to create volume and structured silhouettes that want to seduce, without being overly provocative.
The first part of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid offered an eclectic array of different looks and designs that can stand proudly alongside the other four major fashion weeks. Spanish fashion is firmly establishing its name in the fashion world with unique pieces that want to captivate, seduce, impress and remind us that fashion is an art form and one of the most fun ways to express yourself. To be continued…
Words Veronica Carpio Martin Images Getty Images
IN A NEW YEAR SPECIAL TOPMAN GENERATION TRANSFORM AMY CHILDS INTO A DANDY BOHEMIAN ROCK STAR FROM ANOTHER ERA
Amy Childs has been given a makeover like never before. Topman GENERATION’s unique photoshoot turns Amy into the face of a mysterious and mythical bohemian rock’n'roll band from the mid-70s. With Art Direction from Editor John-Paul Pryor, Fashion photographer Michael Hemy (Tom Ford, Dazed & Confused, Louis Vuitton) turns the instantly recognisable star of TOWIE, and current show It’s All About Amy, into a sophisticated 70s glamour puss, tipping an aesthetic nod to the reportage-style glamour of Bob Richardson.
Adorned head-to-toe in classic vintage sourced by much talked about stylist Melissa Thompson (AnOther Magazine, Dazed & Confused), Essex siren Amy Childs is joined in her fictional rock’n'roll troupe by her vampish male bohemian cohorts. This is Amy Childs as you have never seen her before; this is Amy Childs, Voodoo Child.
See Amy Childs on Channel 5 in her show “It’s All About Amy” on Thursday December 29, 2011, at 10:00pm. “It’s All About Amy” on Channel 5 will be back in the New year from January 12, on from 11:00pm.
Topman GENERATION: www.magazine.topman.com
HARPER’S BAZAAR: GREATEST HITS
GLENDA BAILEY IS ARGUABLY ONE OF THE MOST PROMINENT WOMEN IN FASHION. SINCE BEING MADE EDITOR- IN -CHIEF OF HARPER’S BAZAAR SHE HAS TRANSFORMED THE MAGAZINE. IN CELEBRATION OF HER TEN YEARS AT THE MAGAZINE, SHE HAS TEAMED UP WITH CREATIVE DIRECTOR STEPHEN GAN TO PRODUCE A COLLECTION OF THE MOST STUNNING PHOTOGRAPHS TITLED ‘HARPER’S BAZAAR: GREATEST HITS’. JENNIFER BUTLER SPOKE TO GLENDA BAILEY ABOUT HER NEW BOOK.
Why did you decide to release a collection of photographs featured in Harper’s Bazaar and why did it seem like the right time now?
I wanted to celebrate the work of all the fantastic photographers, stylists and writers that I have been privileged to work with at Bazaar over the last 10 years. When Stephen Gan and I started at Bazaar a decade ago, we wanted to create a joyful tribute to the world’s best fashion, talent and artistry each month.
How did you choose the pictures that went in to this book? Are they personal favourites?
As I edited the book last summer, I was struck by how many remarkable images I had to choose from. I have so many favourites, but in particular; Jean Paul Goude’s fantastical portraits of Naomi Campbell, William Klein’s portfolio of designers and their team (Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz brought a bus full of people), Peter Lindbergh’s cover of Kate Winslet hovering over the Manhattan skyline, Demi Moore and the giraffe, Marc Jacobs and Winona Ryder recreating ‘Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf’ and sending the Simpsons to Paris (Marc Jacobs even got a tattoo of his Simpsonized self on his arm)
Why did you decide to realise a book of pictures rather than features of interviews?
We included a feature or interview from each decade in this book, but we had a lot of brilliant work to choose from, which leaves another opportunity for the next book!
What do you look for in a photograph to make it onto the pages of Harper’s Bazaar?
It must be iconic and epic.
What photographer have you been most proud to work with? Did you have any lifelong dreams?
Richard Avedon – I got to meet him on the first day on the job at Harper’s Bazaar, and it’s been a highlight of my career.
Harper’s Bazaar: Greatest hits is published by Abrams and Chronicle and available now at Amazon.
Words Jennifer Butler Images Harper’s Bazaar
RAUN LAROSE: FOREVER YOUNG S/S 2012
AGENT2 FEATURED THE FANTASTIC DEBUT COLLECTION AND INTERVIEW FROM RAUN LAROSE LAST SEASON AND WE BRING YOU HIS LATEST COLLECTION FOR S/S 2012
This Brooklyn based, young and upcoming designer is destined to be a big name and has been on the AGENT2 ‘One to Watch’ radar for quite some time now. His latest collection sees an exciting progression since we last saw him and Raun states:
“For this collection I was inspired by my childhood. I retraced the steps of my youth in search of things that were the most memorable. Backpacks, comic books, and thoughtful pairing in sport attire. As a menswear designer I strive to expand the concept of contemporary mens fashion through innovation. To challenge myself and explore new techniques, giving fruition to one of my key looks.”
To add to the buzz around Larose, Vogue Italia recently named as ‘fashion’s future’ in their menswear category.
Words Graham Gartside Bernier
LONG X BOY EXHIBITION PHOTOS
AS MANY OF OUR AVID READERS ARE PROBABLY AWARE, WE ARE MASSIVE FANS OF PUNK HERE AT AGENT2 AND THE FANTASTIC COLLABORATION BETWEEN LONG CLOTHING AND BOY LONDON IS NO EXCEPTION!
We just had to bring you these amazing images from a series of shots by London photographer Teddy Fitzhugh that were taken to celebrate the Long x Boy collaboration earlier this year.
The collection focuses around a group of friends whose lives embody a distinct attitude and spirit found in both brands. The photos intend to provide a reflection, not only of their relationships with each other, but also of the distinct connection between the clothing and their lifestyles.
Check out the rest of the series here.
leavetheboyalone.com | longclothing.com
VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT: ONES TO WATCH S/S 2012
TAKING PLACE AT THE VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT VENUE OF FREEMASON’S HALL, ONES TO WATCH SHOWCASED THE DESIGNS OF FOUR NEW UP AND COMING YOUNG DESIGNERS AND UNSURPRISINGLY, THE QUEUE WAS SNAKING DOWN THE STREET IN BOTH DIRECTIONS BY THE TIME I ARRIVED.
First out on the catwalk, Central St Martin’s graduate Alice Lee had knitwear cleverly laced with leather and fabric to produce an almost chainmail effect, used to most striking effect in circular headpieces. It was this lacing which produced the effects in the pieces rather than patterns or seams; from empire lines on dresses to stripes on sweaters. Jewellery including bangles and collars were produced with the same method and the result was a collection that managed to be unusual and innovative as well as wearable.
Phoebe English’s collection was composed of a series of deconstructed pieces with trailing threads, ripped away hems and dip dyed fabrics. A nod to 90s grunge was present in the monochrome palette and clumpy flat shoes combined with the hair; either slicked back completely or hanging long and straight over one side of the face. The boxy cuts and plain colours seemed simple at first, but they served to show off the incredible hand detailing in the fabrics; tiny pleats in shift dresses and feathery edges which looked like swan down on the white pieces. For me this English was the standout of the whole show, grunge elements having always been a weakness of mine.
The only one of the four not a graduate from Central St Martin’s, Malene Oddershede Bach also stood out from the rest of the show for her use of vibrant colours; reds, blues, yellows and pinks all featured as the binding glue of a collection comprising of many different styles. There were unicolour shirt and suit combinations, mini dresses over chiffon maxi skirts, billowing shoulder and embellished tops, each look paired with perfectly matching heels for an ultra coordinated approach. It seems that yellow is to be the colour of s/s12 and Bach used it to maximum effect in a vivid leather biker jacket with double zip detailing.
Taking a more avant garde approach was Shao Yen, another graduate of Central St Martins. A spin on the traditional little black dress saw a piece composed entirely of loose knit fringing in a rigid yarn which stood away from the body in dramatic spikes. There was more than a little of a bondage element in the collection, with leather straps containing the body and asymmetric tailoring exposing thighs and breasts along with transparent fabrics and platform heels. The collection wasn’t the most easily accessible of the four but it certainly demonstrated an unusual and interesting style.
All very different but very talented designers, Ones to Watch certainly lived up to its name and I eagerly await the next season’s offerings from all four showcased.
Words Tamsin Worrad
