Amy Childs has been given a makeover like never before. Topman GENERATION’s unique photoshoot turns Amy into the face of a mysterious and mythical bohemian rock’n'roll band from the mid-70s. With Art Direction from Editor John-Paul Pryor, Fashion photographer Michael Hemy (Tom Ford, Dazed & Confused, Louis Vuitton) turns the instantly recognisable star of TOWIE, and current show It’s All About Amy, into a sophisticated 70s glamour puss, tipping an aesthetic nod to the reportage-style glamour of Bob Richardson.

Adorned head-to-toe in classic vintage sourced by much talked about stylist Melissa Thompson (AnOther Magazine, Dazed & Confused), Essex siren Amy Childs is joined in her fictional rock’n'roll troupe by her vampish male bohemian cohorts. This is Amy Childs as you have never seen her before; this is Amy Childs, Voodoo Child.

See Amy Childs on Channel 5 in her show “It’s All About Amy” on Thursday December 29, 2011, at 10:00pm. “It’s All About Amy” on Channel 5 will be back in the New year from January 12, on from 11:00pm.

Topman GENERATION: www.magazine.topman.com

GLENDA BAILEY IS ARGUABLY ONE OF THE MOST PROMINENT WOMEN IN FASHION. SINCE BEING MADE EDITOR- IN -CHIEF OF HARPER’S BAZAAR SHE HAS TRANSFORMED THE MAGAZINE. IN CELEBRATION OF HER TEN YEARS AT THE MAGAZINE, SHE HAS TEAMED UP WITH CREATIVE DIRECTOR STEPHEN GAN TO PRODUCE A COLLECTION OF THE MOST STUNNING PHOTOGRAPHS TITLED ‘HARPER’S BAZAAR: GREATEST HITS’. JENNIFER BUTLER SPOKE TO GLENDA BAILEY ABOUT HER NEW BOOK.

Why did you decide to release a collection of photographs featured in Harper’s Bazaar and why did it seem like the right time now?

I wanted to celebrate the work of all the fantastic photographers, stylists and writers that I have been privileged to work with at Bazaar over the last 10 years. When Stephen Gan and I started at Bazaar a decade ago, we wanted to create a joyful tribute to the world’s best fashion, talent and artistry each month.

How did you choose the pictures that went in to this book? Are they personal favourites?

As I edited the book last summer, I was struck by how many remarkable images I had to choose from. I have so many favourites, but in particular; Jean Paul Goude’s fantastical portraits of Naomi Campbell, William Klein’s portfolio of designers and their team (Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz brought a bus full of people), Peter Lindbergh’s cover of Kate Winslet hovering over the Manhattan skyline, Demi Moore and the giraffe, Marc Jacobs and Winona Ryder recreating ‘Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf’ and sending the Simpsons to Paris (Marc Jacobs even got a tattoo of his Simpsonized self on his arm)

Why did you decide to realise a book of pictures rather than features of interviews?

We included a feature or interview from each decade in this book, but we had a lot of brilliant work to choose from, which leaves another opportunity for the next book!

What do you look for in a photograph to make it onto the pages of Harper’s Bazaar?

It must be iconic and epic.

What photographer have you been most proud to work with? Did you have any lifelong dreams?

Richard Avedon – I got to meet him on the first day on the job at Harper’s Bazaar, and it’s been a highlight of my career.

Harper’s Bazaar: Greatest hits is published by Abrams and Chronicle and available now at Amazon.

Words Jennifer Butler  Images Harper’s Bazaar

AGENT2 FEATURED THE FANTASTIC DEBUT COLLECTION AND INTERVIEW FROM RAUN LAROSE LAST SEASON AND WE BRING YOU HIS LATEST COLLECTION FOR S/S 2012

This Brooklyn based, young and upcoming designer is destined to be a big name and has been on the AGENT2 ‘One to Watch’ radar for quite some time now. His latest collection sees an exciting progression since we last saw him and Raun states:

“For this collection I was inspired by my childhood.  I retraced the steps of my youth in search of things that were the most memorable.  Backpacks, comic books, and thoughtful pairing in sport attire.  As a menswear designer I strive to expand the concept of contemporary mens fashion through innovation. To challenge myself and explore new techniques, giving fruition to one of my key looks.”

To add to the buzz around Larose, Vogue Italia recently named as ‘fashion’s future’ in their menswear category.

Words Graham Gartside Bernier

AS MANY OF OUR AVID READERS ARE PROBABLY AWARE, WE ARE MASSIVE FANS OF PUNK HERE AT AGENT2 AND THE FANTASTIC COLLABORATION BETWEEN LONG CLOTHING AND BOY LONDON IS NO EXCEPTION!

We just had to bring you these amazing images from a series of shots by London photographer Teddy Fitzhugh that were taken to celebrate the Long x Boy collaboration earlier this year.

The collection focuses around a group of friends whose lives embody a distinct attitude and spirit found in both brands. The photos intend to provide a reflection, not only of their relationships with each other, but also of the distinct connection between the clothing and their lifestyles.

Check out the rest of the series here.

leavetheboyalone.com | longclothing.com

First out on the catwalk, Central St Martin’s graduate Alice Lee had knitwear cleverly laced with leather and fabric to produce an almost chainmail effect, used to most striking effect in circular headpieces. It was this lacing which produced the effects in the pieces rather than patterns or seams; from empire lines on dresses to stripes on sweaters. Jewellery including bangles and collars were produced with the same method and the result was a collection that managed to be unusual and innovative as well as wearable.

Phoebe English’s collection was composed of a series of deconstructed pieces with trailing threads, ripped away hems and dip dyed fabrics. A nod to 90s grunge was present in the monochrome palette and clumpy flat shoes combined with the hair; either slicked back completely or hanging long and straight over one side of the face. The boxy cuts and plain colours seemed simple at first, but they served to show off the incredible hand detailing in the fabrics; tiny pleats in shift dresses and feathery edges which looked like swan down on the white pieces.  For me this English was the standout of the whole show, grunge elements having always been a weakness of mine.

The only one of the four not a graduate from Central St Martin’s, Malene Oddershede Bach also stood out from the rest of the show for her use of vibrant colours; reds, blues, yellows and pinks all featured as the binding glue of a collection comprising of many different styles. There were unicolour shirt and suit combinations, mini dresses over chiffon maxi skirts, billowing shoulder and embellished tops, each look paired with perfectly matching heels for an ultra coordinated approach. It seems that yellow is to be the colour of s/s12 and Bach used it to maximum effect in a vivid leather biker jacket with double zip detailing.

Taking a more avant garde approach was Shao Yen, another graduate of Central St Martins. A spin on the traditional little black dress saw a piece composed entirely of loose knit fringing in a rigid yarn which stood away from the body in dramatic spikes.  There was more than a little of a bondage element in the collection, with leather straps containing the body and asymmetric tailoring exposing thighs and breasts along with transparent fabrics and platform heels. The collection wasn’t the most easily accessible of the four but it certainly demonstrated an unusual and interesting style.

All very different but very talented designers, Ones to Watch certainly lived up to its name and I eagerly await the next season’s offerings from all four showcased.

Words Tamsin Worrad 

 

THE MUSIC ACCOMPANYING MALAYSIAN DESIGNER BERNARD CHANDRAN’S SS12 SHOW WAS A MIX OF CLASSIC DOO-WOP AND MODERN HIP HOP WHICH SLOTTED IN PERFECTLY WITH THE THEME OF THE COLLECTION, INFLUENCED AS IT WAS BY THE GLAMOUR OF THE 1950S BUT WITH A CONTEMPORARY EDGE.

Instead of directly using the shapes and styles of the decade, Chandran instead took inspiration from the effort and creativity that went into the fashions of the times. Everything screamed high octane glamour, with luxe metallics and thick fringing featuring heavily throughout. Mimicking 1950s cat eye glasses, the models wore bright blue eyeliner which worked to eye popping effect on dark skin. The era influence become more evident as the show went on, when classic prom dress silhouettes appeared with detailed ace cut out sections it was a floor length black satin dress with thigh high side split which to me represented the ultimate in elegant evening wear. Black lace gloves toughened up the ladylike looks along with bright pops of colour to modernise the vintage theme and the overall impression of the collection was one of nodding to the past whilst continuing to look to the future.

Words Tamsin Worrad  Images Christopher Dadey

 

HAVING GONE TO SEE BELLE SAUVAGE’S SHOW IN FEBRUARY 2011, I DECIDED IT WAS TIME TO WORK BACKSTAGE AND GET SEE HOW THEIR CATWALK SHOW WAS RUN. AS WELL AS GETTING A FIRST GLIMPSE OF THEIR SPRING/ SUMMER COLLECTION.

After a few footwear malfunctions and stress surrounding how to get the clothing over the large hats the lovely models were wearing, the show was off without a glitch.

As usual their beautiful silhouettes ad flowing dresses prove that they are a glamorous label to suit every body shape.

Pink, blue and yellow printed dresses graced the catwalk, with a red leather number to add a different dimension to the strong prints.

Japanese inspired floral net dresses floated down the catwalk. The highlight was undoubtedly the tight blue abstract dress with pale blue chiffon and killer splits up the side. With a cut out low back, the dress was desired by all the ladies backstage and in the audience.

Padded shoulders gave an Amazonian look on the models, giving a classic Belle Sauvage futuristic feel. The line was girly, fun and beyond beautiful.

Words Jennifer Butler  Images Rob Sheppard 

  

I HAVE ALWAYS BEEN A HUGE FAN OF KTZ. AND BEING GIVEN THE OPPORTUNITY TO GO BACKSTAGE WAS A DREAM. THEN YOU REALISE THE EXTENT OF THE DETAIL AND LAYERING THAT GOES IN TO SUCH AN INTRICATE COLLECTION.

The men had a much detail as the women, with South American designed techni-coloured stitching and beaded belts, bags and anything in between. Oversized grey denim and logo covered jackets were a favourite amongst the male models. All with complicated belts and buckles which went over shoulders and around legs.

The women looked powerful yet stunning in beautiful beaded dresses, some of the most stunning I have seen throughout Fashion Week. See through black, gold and sequined kaftans with leather and studded underwear were the highlight of the collection.

There was also an assortment of pretty bow covered cocktail dresses in purples and pinks. Beaded hats, earrings and bracelets complimented the bright colours. This collection was not for wall flowers. Everything that went onto the catwalk felt incredibly fresh and exciting.

Words Jennifer Butler  Images KTZ

 

THE HOUSE OF EVOLUTION SHOW DID NOT GET OFF TO A GOOD START, LEAVING US ATTENDEES TRAPPED IN THE ENTRANCE OF FREEMASON’S HALL FOR NEARLY AN HOUR WHILE WE WAITED TO BE LED TO OUR SEATS. AS ONE OF THE LAST SHOWS OF THE DAY, LEAVING JOURNALISTS STANDING IN THEIR HEELS TO GET ANGRY SEEMED LIKE A BAD WAY TO KICK OFF AND BY THE TIME WE WERE ALLOWED IN I’D WITNESSED MORE THAN ONE ALTERCATION WITH THE CREW.

House of Evolution is a collective consisting of three designers, and first to show their collection was DAS, two sisters (Reem and Hind Beljafla) who based their designs around the traditional Arab over-garment, the Abaya, with inspiration coming from the Ancient Roman and Greek empires. This translated into floatingl, loose fitting dresses and tunics in pale blues and pinks seemingly taking their cues from the Togas of Ancient Greece. Other looks included  more structured skirts and shirts with armour like wristlets and loose tunics over panelled leggings. Intricately beaded mosaic style patterns featured on the sleeves of dresses, on skirts and forming the front pieces of boxy cut tops as well as belts wrapping the looser fitting pieces together.

Math featured next and the first look captured, to my mind, the ideal form of relaxed springtime chic. A slouchy t-shirt tucked into a light pink chiffon midi skirt created a look that was effortlessly stylish and dreamlike. The rest of the collection successfully lived up to this promise with more slouchy jersey, vibrant blues and oranges and although the overall look was one of simplicity there was enough in the cuts and shapes to keep it interesting and new. This may come as no surprise as the label’s designer Shaz comes from a graphic design background rather than fashion and cites architecture as a major influence.

Finally came Rohmir, who I had high hopes for upon discovering their influences consisted of 20s and 30s French chic and ‘La Garconne’ (tomboy). Unfortunately it failed to quite meet my expectations and instead seemed to have been entirely inspired by exotic birds, completely with a slightly grating tropical soundtrack. Although I loved the shirt dresses featuring a cape back detail and waist tie (at least the tomboy influence was present somewhere)  I found my attention predominately grabbed by the huge pairs of fake eyelashes sported by each model to match her outfit but mostly served to detract the audience’s gaze from the clothing.

The whole show was longer than the average and combined with the waiting time that preceded the show, there was definitely an element of annoyance amongst the crowd with many feeling disappointed by the collections. Unfortunately I must admit to feeling the same way, with only Math really staying in my mind as I left the venue.

Words Tamsin Worrad  Images Christopher Dadey

CENTRAL ST MARTIN’S IS RENOWNED FOR PRODUCING THE SOME OF THE BEST AND MOST INNOVATIVE DESIGNERS. ONE OF THE DARLINGS OF THE FASHION SCHOOL IS CHRISTOPHER SHANNON WHO SHOWCASED HIS SPRING/ SUMMER 2012 MENSWEAR COLLECTION AT LONDON FASHION WEEK.

The first thing to stick out as the intrinsically placed comb sculptures, placed on the models thinly shaved hair. Proving it is the Brits who have an eye for the original look, the combs were apparently glued to the models heads. A nice touch I thought, but I have always enjoyed seeing something different on the catwalk.

Tassel details on asymmetric jumpers gave a twist to the usual men’s knitwear designs and looked modern and stylish. Waterproofs with drawstrings added a sporty feel to the classic menswear collection.

Cubist patterns in black, orange, greys and blues were printed on t-shirts and hard wearing street wear coats.  The combs will probably remain to be the talking point though.

Words Jennifer Butler 

  

THE FANTASY WORLD OF FAIRIES AND NYMPHS, THE VICTORIAN PAINTING MOVEMENT AND ASIAN EMBROIDERY WERE THE MAIN INSPIRATIONS IN THIS TRULY STUNNING COLLECTION, “A FAIRY DANCE”.

Spanish designer Elisa Palomino has created captivating, nostalgic and spectacular outfits, reinventing the bobbin, a traditional textile technique of Madrid’s Enlightenment period which involves rolling thread around long reels with handles called bolillos to weave an intricate pattern. This technique is reflected in the Manila shawl, an outfit still worn in Madrid’s fiestas.

Flowers were the protagonist at the Elisa Palomino show. The catwalk opened with black Victorian shapes complemented with striking floral headpieces.

The second part offered red evening gowns with Chinese tea houses headpieces, light blue organza shades and long see-trough dresses with fishnet sleeves and animal prints of birds and butterflies.

Traditional silk embroidery patterns have been mixed with modern techniques such as laser-cutting, appliqué and intarsia to add a luxurious, innovative and cutting-edge touch to the collection.

The result was extraordinary pieces that paid tribute to the Spanish and Chinese cultures, exuding pure elegance, glamour and decadence, in what certainly deserves to be considered one of the best collections of 2011.

Elisa has worked for Moschino, Roberto Cavalli and Christian Dior Haute Couture. During 8 years she was head of studio for John Galliano and most recently Vice President of design for Diane von Furstenberg.

She launched her own collection last year during New York Fashion Week, which was bought entirely by Dolce & Gabbana for the opening of the concept store SPIGA 2.

Words Veronica Carpio  Images Blow PR

  

COLLEGE DAYS, FREEDOM OF EXPRESSION, CREATIVITY AND INDIVIDUALITY WERE THE MAIN INFLUENCES IN JAMES SMALL’S SPRING/SUMMER 2012 MENSWEAR COLLECTION.

A colourful palette of bold colours such as blue, dark purple and green was mixed with floral prints creating sleek and romantic outfits for a man who wants to feel elegant and unique.

Silk shirts and velvet jackets combined with shorts were the key pieces in this outstanding collection.

James Small has collaborated with Vauxhall Motors to create the fashion film ‘Wash’, starring Jaime Winstone.

Supermodel Kate Moss got all the attention as she sat at the front row with her husband Jamie Hince. Sadie Frost, Jaime Winstone and Meg Matthews also attended and complimented James’ designs. Later on, they all went to party to the central London hotel Corinthia to celebrate the end of London Fashion Week.

Words Veronica Carpio  Images Dan Harley

  

Wearing clothes seemingly designed for dance, the models pirrouted down the catwalk en pointe to show off the draping skirts whilst shoulders were shimmied to demonstrate the movement of huge feathered pieces. Male models lifted female into the air to best show off the floor length fringing and the whole atmosphere was one of drama and theatrics, befitting an avant garde collection (not to mention Pierson’s background in peformance).

The colour palette was in a springlike range of muted peaches, golds and greys with hair was piled in softened beehives, leaving the lines of the dancers body uncovered. As with many collections this season, fringing played a major part in the drama from full length skirts to back detail on jumpsuits. ‘Mobius Strip’ was a real lesson in collaboration with all elements fitting together perfectly, the strength of the collection evident with it remained in the mind because of the theatrics and not despite them.

Words Tamsin Worrad

INSPIRED BY THE DARK NATURE OF CUBO-FUTURISM AND THE SCULPTURAL VISION OF RAYMOND DUCHAMP-VILLON, GEORGIA HARDINGE’ COLLECTION, CUBED, IS CUTTING-EDGE AND FUTURISTIC.

Structured silhouettes are combined with geometrical prints and cubes, pentagons and triangular shapes creating a contemporary, abstract and ambiguous feel.

Grey was the predominant colour, which mixed with flashes of orange, white and black, and sheer fabrics added depth and scale to the collection.

Flowing long dresses, straight trousers and ‘box-shape’ mini skirts were the key pieces in this contemporary and sleek collection for a woman who wants to feel strong and modern but also feminine.

Georgia has collaborated with Victoria’s secret, been sponsored by Swarovski and has received extensive support from press and buyers world wide.

Words Veronica Carpio  Images Dan Harley

TROUBLED HEROINE GIRLS WITH AN EDGE, ICY AS A HITCHCOCK ACTRESS AND COMPLEX AS THE MODERN EDIE SEDGWICK, HAVE BEEN THE MAIN INSPIRATION FOR JOANNE HYNES’ COLLECTION ‘PLASTISCOPE’.

Influenced by the intensity of the 60s and 70s, the colour palette is a chaotic mix of metallic tones such as gold and silver and block colours: orange, green and blue.

Loose tops and dresses combined with striking oversized animal pendants and foile leather appliqué jackets where the main highlights in a collection that breathes disco nights, hedonism and bohemian spirit.

Words Veronica Carpio  Images Dan Harley 

AGENT2 MAGAZINE BRINGS YOU ALL THE BEST SHOWS STREAMED LIVE FROM LONDON FASHION. TAKE YOUR FRONT ROW SEAT FROM THE COMFORT OF YOUR OWN HOME.

See more catwalk reports from LFW here.

AFTER HIS DEBUT ON LONDON FASHION WEEK IN FEBRUARY, ZIAD GHANEM HAS COME BACK TO FREEMASON’S HALL WITH ANOTHER EXTRAORDINARY SHOW THAT IS AS THEATRICAL, ARTISTIC, EMOTIONAL AND SEXUALLY-CHARGED AS YOU CAN GET.

The Polish film Matka Joanna od aniolow (Mother Joan of the Angels) has been his main inspiration for his spring/summer ready to wear collection.

Ziad has created more than just a fashion show, but a visually stunning extravaganza, where the models don’t just wear the clothes, but use Ziad’s designs to express themselves in a very creative and exuberant way.

A bride and a groom with extreme red eye shadow opened the catwalk. The colour palette was mainly black, white and red, except for a few multicoloured splashes in the last pieces, where the models looked like abstract paintings.

Structured silhouettes were on display in a collection where the key outfits were transparent long evening gowns complemented with latex gloves and tulle veils, and striking corsets that enhanced the natural curves of a woman, creating a very erotic and sensual look.

Fine materials such as silk organza and Italian vintage fabrics added a touch of texture, luxury and opulence.

While most of designers use the standard skinny and tall models, Ziad Ghanem breaks all the boundaries introducing models from different backgrounds, shapes and ages, making a definite statement that fashion isn’t just for the good-looking or thin but for everyone who is passionate about it.

Fine artist Pandemonia Panacea is a huge fan of Ziad’s designs and was in the front row supporting his show.

Transsexuals, men dressed up as women, artists (Mr Pustra and Marnie Scarlet) and even Ziad’s little niece made an appearance in a fashion show that was effortlessly provocative, dramatic and unique.

www.ziadghanem.co.uk

Words Veronica Carpio  Images Dan Harley

IT WAS ALL ABOUT LUXURY AND GLITZ AT JASPER GARVIDA’S FASHION SHOW FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2012, WHICH WAS PRESENTED AT THE BLOOMSBURY HOTEL.

Women are Garvida’s main inspiration and for this collection, he has chosen Diana Vreland as his muse, due to her sense of style and passion for the daring and the exotic. His other main influence has been the rhythm found in Frantisek Kupka’s painting ‘Autour d’un Point’, from where the collection took its name.

Strong silhouettes in metallic colours such as gold and silver, combined with black and white, give the collection a crisp and elegant touch.

Garvida has mixed soft fabrics and circular shapes with strong materials such as sequins and abstracted feathers, and animal prints to create a futuristic and ‘electro-tribal’ feel.

Spectacular evening gowns with strong metallic hardware and short dresses with oversized pockets and striking zips were the key pieces in this sophisticated and glamorous collection.

Garvida’s designs are very popular among celebrities and fashionistas. TV presenter Hofit Golan and singer Katie Melua were in attendance.

Words Veronica Carpio  Images Dan Harley

JAPANESE DESIGNER RIRA SUGAWARA SHOWCASED A COLOURFUL AND STRIKING COLLECTION, ‘CLASH BEAUTY’, WHICH PAYS TRIBUTE TO THE OVERWHELMING EARTHQUAKE THAT HAPPENED IN TOKYO EARLIER THIS YEAR.

Rira has taken literally the famous quote by Coco Chanel “Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live”, featuring the sky, asphalt and buildings of Tokyo on her explosive prints.

Long and short dresses made of coated cotton were on display for a woman who wants to feel powerful, confident and sexy.

The extravagant blue lipstick, the prints and the plastic feel of the outfits created an extravagant and defiant look, which reflects Rira’s infatuation with pop art.

Words Veronica Carpio  Images Dan Harley

EMULATING THE OPULENCE AND ELEGANCE OF THE TRAIN ORIENT EXPRESS, IZMAYLOVA EXPRESS TAKES US INTO A JOURNEY OF STYLE, LUXURY AND SOPHISTICATION TO PRESENT HER SPRING/SUMMER COLLECTION FOR 2012.

Refined light-weight materials such as silk, satin, suede and Swarovski crystals were on display in a collection inspired by the rich warmth and natural elements of an isolated tropical hideaway.

Striking colours such as gold, burnt orange, dusty pink and beige give a sumptuous and distinctive feel to the outfits.

The structured corsetry combined with elongated trousers, short feathered dresses and flowing long dresses with drapery and organza were the main highlights, for a woman who wants to feel like royalty.

The asymmetrical cuts and sharp silhouettes have created a futuristic and avant-garde collection which aspires to make an everlasting statement. Izmaylova’s passion for craftsmanship and attention to detail are evident in the high standards of all her clothing.

Izmaylova.co.uk is re-launching very soon and will feature the Lova Boutique, an interactive and innovative ‘Global Experience’ online flagship store where the collections will be available worldwide.

Words Veronica Carpio  Images Dan Harley

JEAN-PIERRE BRAGANZA’S SPRING/SUMMER 2012 COLLECTION, “PRAXIS”, IS INFLUENCED BY THE DECADENCE OF THE ART DECO ERA, THE GERMAN ARCHITECT LUDWIG MIES VAN DER ROHE, INDUSTRIAL ROCK AND THE ARTIST BEN NICHOLSON. HE ALSO FOUND INSPIRATION FROM THE SHAPES PRODUCED BY SMASHING WAVES AND BRACING ROCKS DURING A TRIP TO CORNWALL.

Loose dresses were complemented by structured, tailored blazers in grey and black colours for a woman who is strong, confident and adventurous.

The second part of the show presented knee-length dresses with abstract and geometric prints and finished with vaporous outfits in coral, which added a colourful tone to the end.

Braganza uses fashion to express himself creating sharp silhouettes that highlight the prints, drape, tailoring and cut.

www.jeanpierrebraganza.com

 Words Veronica Carpio  Images Dan Harley

• CARLOTTA ACTIS BARONE

Victorian brothels and French Boudoir from the late 1800s and early 1900s are matched with the idea of the Geisha, a high-class prostitute whose honour and social status remains untouched despite of her job.

Carlotta’s collection for spring/summer 2012 looks at both sides of prostitution with spectacular kimonos, Grecian style short dresses and playsuits in vivid colours of greens, reds and yellow for a woman who wants to feel attractive, seductive and powerful.

Models in flowing dresses, extreme make-up and huge platforms with flower details opened the catwalk, reminiscing the way in which prostitutes seduce her clients.

Animal and floral prints, a trench coat with a bow at the back and her particular representation of the kimono mixed with roping details were the main highlights of her collection.

The result was spectacular, exuberant and truly alluring pieces that express the power of     beauty, honour and seduction.

• JAMES HILLMAN

James Hillman presented an innovative menswear spring/summer 2012 collection, which explores the magnificence of outer space, black holes and complex equations.

James also takes inspiration from the surrealist world of Salvador Dali’s paintings creating diagonally curved pockets and innovative t-shirts with seam detailing.

His colour palette is made of purples, greys, blues, ivories and pinks which give the impression of an exploding star.

Fitted tailored jackets, smart waistcoats, loose trousers and shorts were the key pieces of a collection for a man who will be noticed whatever he goes.

This creative collection exudes style and sophistication, reflecting the splendour and fluidity of science and the stars.

• FLORIAN JAYET

Florian Jayet showcased an outstanding 15-piece collection based on the ghostly Japanese myth of the Yurei: those who are murdered are destined to become Yurei and spend the afterlife searching for their killer to free themselves and reach heaven.

The catwalk opened with structured high-waisted dresses with impossibly high-heel boots without heels, creating a very futuristic and daring look for a woman who wants to feel powerful and fearless.

The entire collection is completely white, except for the use of bright colours such as green, yellow, purple and red beneath some of the fabrics.

Flowing caped shoulders, gathered skirts and white dresses with flashes of electro-pop floral lace were the main highlights of a collection which mixes the old traditions of Japan with a very futuristic look.

High-heel less or with huge platforms with skull details, shoes took a lot of the protagonism in this striking collection, which breathes Lady Gaga, Alexander McQueen and innovation.

Words Veronica Carpio  Images Dan Harley

LAKO BUKIA SPRING/SUMMER 2012 AT FREEMASON’S HALL PRESENTED A STUNNING COLLECTION INSPIRED BY ASIAN TREES AND FLOWERS.

For Bukia, this season is all about colour blocking, geometric shapes and flowing dresses and skirts.

For the first time, she has introduced her hand-drawn flower print to highlight the development and progression of her unique talent.

Bold colours such as red, white, black and grey were mixed with delicate and feminine materials: chiffon, silk and light wool.

Striking white corsets with button details in the middle added a touch of sensuality and naughtiness. Other key pieces were long vaporous dresses, shorts and full sweeping skirts.

The make-up was also quite dramatic; heavy black eyeliner combined with a strikingly white eye shadow created a feline and extravagant look.

The luxurious fabrics, fine attention to detail and dramatic silhouettes have created a unique and sexy collection to show off a woman’s body in the best possible way.

www.lakobukia.com

Words Veronica Carpio  Images Dan Harley

A HUGE DARK ROOM AND FLASHING LIGHT BULBS ON THE CEILING GAVE AN ECCENTRIC AND NAUGHTY TOUCH TO THE USUALLY PRISTINE WHITE CATWALKS.

Models in quirky headscarves, cat-eye sunglasses and cashmere cricket jumpers made an entrance to transport us in time to the glamour and laid back elegance of the 1930s.

Zoe Jordan’s spring/summer 2012 collection pays tribute to Edith Bouvier (also known us “Little Edie”, a classic society girl with an unusual twist, and also takes inspiration from cricket, picnics, smoking clubs and martinis.

A soft colour palette of delicate tones such as silver, olive, dusty pink and blue is combined with brown and ginger.

Tweed jackets, classic tailored silk shirts, lace tea dresses and, specially, a ginger maxi dress with square shoulders, were the main highlights of her collection.

Clean silhouettes, iridescent sequins, soft chiffon and buttery suede added a touch of effortless chicness to the outfits.

Zoe has created luxurious pieces that ooze old glamour, romanticism and nostalgia.

Words Veronica Carpio  Images Dan Harley

The tales of Scheherazade, the queen and voice of the fairytale “One Thousand and One nights”, were their main inspiration in a collection characterized by the use of Oriental geometry, as opposed to previous collections were their main influence was western geometrics.

Models with exotic headscarves in straight dresses and skirts with rhombus prints opened the catwalk for a woman who wants to feel beautiful but also, intelligent and intriguing.

Contrasting colours such as lime yellow, coral, oriental blue and crystal pink were combined with soft tones and black.

Modern materials such as techno lines, cotton lurex, silk twill and cotton blends were mixed with Penrose figures to create an Arabic feel.

The key pieces were ¾ length trousers, slouchy jackets and straight v-neck dresses which oozed elegance, femininity and sensuality.

The designs’ graphic detailing and exquisite use of colours make the Spijkers en Spijkers brand truly desirable.

www.spijkersenspijkers.nl

Words Veronica Carpio  Images Dan Harley 

 

SASS & BIDE’S LONDON FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2012 CATWALK SHOW WAS HELD IN THE GLAMOROUS AND LIGHT-FILLED ROYAL OPERA HOUSE. 

Sarah-Jane Clarke & Heidi Middleton are bringing back day-glo inspiration for spring/summer with accents on jewellery, shirts and skirts and even in the playful geometric patterns they seem to love so much.

Split to the thigh skirts and long dresses sashayed down the catwalk delighting a glamorous front row that included the designer duo’s two gorgeous daughters as well as Paloma Faith and Peaches Geldof.

Shimmer, sequins and metallics made bold statements against blacks, blues and sheers. I particularly loved the blue sequined stripy jacket.

A trio of gorgeous pale mini dresses followed. One asymmetrical number featuring an enormous swathe of fabric built up on the shoulders was a favourite as was the robotic mini bodycon with sequined shoulders.

See more catwalk reports from LFW here.

Words Graham Gartside-Bernier  Images catwalking.com

The catwalk started with delicate and flowing cocktail dresses, with flowers’ details on the models’ heads, and a colour palette of romantic creams, whites and beiges.

But this sweet beginning, moved to a more seductive tone with shapes that highlight the waist and torso, and colours such as coral, turquoise, dark blue and black to express desire, lust and passion.

Aksu plays with the layering of textures using fabrics such as silk, cotton, lace and an abundance of dramatic pleating.

The key looks were silk blouses styled with tailored trousers, cinched waists and corseted torsos, tube-shape long skirts and short summer jackets.

For the first time, Aksu has introduced fishnet tights, adding a touch of sexiness to the outfits.

The result is an innovative fashion affair that explores romance, unfulfilled dreams and secret desires.

The show was attended by Nicola Roberts from Girls Aloud and the model Jay from TV programme “Dirty Sexy Things”.

See more catwalk reports from LFW here.

 Words Veroinca Carpio  Images Dan Harley

IRISH DESIGNER PAUL COSTELLOE OPENED LONDON FASHION WEEK WITH A “BABY DOLL” COLLECTION TO EMPHASISE THE FEMININITY AND FLIRTY SIDE OF EVERY WOMAN.

For spring/summer 2012, Paul has been inspired by the movie “What ever happened to Baby Jane”? creating an innocent but, at the same time, dangerous and naughty look which exudes pure glamour and sophistication.

The colour palette started with neutral colours such as light beige and grey, and moved to a brighter side at the end with turquoise blue and purple.

Stripes were also a big part on womenswear, giving a touch of French chic mixed with a playful tone.

1970’s Paris inspired silhouettes, empire waistlines, swing jackets and short dresses were the main highlights.

In menswear, the long coat was the key piece of Costelloe’s collection and grey was the predominant colour in a look made for men who want to feel classy and smart, like the perfect “English gentleman”.

Costelloe’s collection adds a dose of fun and style to daily wear.

After the show, London Mayor Boris Johnson and BFC Chair Harold Tillman CBE announced Fashion 2012, a platform to showcase and celebrate British fashion throughout London’s Olympic year.

See more catwalk reports from LFW here.

www.paulcostelloe.com

Words Veronica Carpio  Images Dan Harley

CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN KICKS OFF THE FIRST OF THREE BRITISH MENSWEAR DESIGNER INSTALLATIONS WITH HIS LIFE SIZE OFF CUT ANIMALS MADE WITH THE EXACT FABRICS USED IN HIS A/W11 COLLECTION…

AGENT2 loves to champion new and emerging designers and Harvey Nichols can often be found at the forefront of emerging new talent as well as creating platforms to help develop and nurture exciting new brands.  From this month to November, Harvey Nichols is hosting a series of in-store installations, created and curated by three British designers that they are currently supporting.

Christopher Raeburn kicks of the initiative this month.  The British ethical designer fuses innovative fabric technology with garment re-appropriation and a passion for military heritage.  His AW11 collection is inspired by research into the original garments, their fabric technology and development.

NEWGEN sponsor Katie Eary is next to drop in-store in October.  The London-based designer needs no introduction – her aggressive but noble menswear is an unstoppable, inevitable hurricane ripping its own way through fashion.

Katie says; “I’m so excited about this project with Harvey Nichols.  I’ve been waiting to get my hands on a great space and Harvey Nichols id the perfect place for what I have in mind.  I think people will be thrilled and intrigued by my installation… Frankenstein’s Lab in central London!”

Finishing off the trio of designer installations in November is AGENT2 favourite, James Long.  Long has fast become one of the most sought after menswear talents in London.  With a huge fan base ranging from Alister Mackie: Creative Director of Another Man, Luke Day: Fashion Director of GQ Style, and Lanvin’s Lucas Ossendriver praising James as his ‘favourite young designer’, James has certainly made his mark as a designer to watch.

James says: “I wanted to recreate the unsettled attitude of my Autumn/Winter collection within an installation space at Harvey Nichols.  With the use of lighting I will try to form and area where my collection lives in a manic mayhem of colour and texture.”

Find out more details about Harvey Nichols Menswear Project here.

AGENT2 IS NOT TOO EMBARRASSED TO LET OUR READERS KNOW THAT SOMETIMES WE GET A LITTLE TWINGE OF JEALOUSY WHEN WE SEE WHAT OTHER PUBLICATIONS ARE DOING.  WHEN THESE IMAGES FROM THE LATEST ISSUE OF VARÓN CAME ACROSS OUR DESK, IT WAS MOST DEFINITELY ONE OF THOSE TIMES WE WERE LEFT GREEN WITH ENVY. 

For the 4th issue of Varón – on stands worldwide September 8th – Nicola Formichetti styles himself and his menswear team at Mugler in the Mugler autumn/winter 2011 collection. Shot by Kacper Kasprzyk, the story features menswear designer Romain Kremer, communications director Alban Adam, and Formichetti’s assistant Matthieu Bredon-Huger.

The feature marks the first magazine portrayal of the Mugler team since Nicola Formichetti was appointed creative director at the house last year. It is accompanied by an in-depth interview with Formichetti and his team by Anders Christian Madsen.  Likewise, the cover of the issue features Nicola Formichetti by Kacper Kasprzyk.

AGENT2 brings you a small extract of that interview:

Nicola Formichetti in response to copycat accusations in regards to his work with Lady Gaga:

“In short, no, we don’t have other people’s looks on the wall and we don’t try to copy anyone. That would be a stupid thing to do, no? Do people really think Gaga would go and look at a music video and say, ‘That’s a cool video, let’s redo that’? People only think that because that’s the only reference they have.”

Nicola Formichetti on public criticism:

“I get really sad when people judge me and think I’m snobby because of stuff they read on the internet, like stuff about old people or fat people that’s taken completely out of context. It gets blown out of proportion. It’s sad but I have to keep moving, and keep believing in what I’m doing.”

Nicola Formichetti on Thierry Mugler:

“For me he’s like God, you know? So I don’t really wanna… I don’t really want to know what he thinks. Of course I’d like for him to love it, but I don’t really want to… For me he’s someone so high, but I’m not here to please him. If he doesn’t like it, it would make me sad but he’s not why I decided to take the job. The reason I changed the name to Mugler instead of Thierry Mugler was to make it less personal and more of a brand as opposed to a French couturier. I want it to become a global brand.”

Nicola Formichetti on Romain Kremer:

“He’s like an extension of my hand. Our tastes are so similar. I’m not very good at making things so he does it for me.”

Nicola Formichetti on Alban Adam:

“He’s my brain. Everything I think about the brand, he articulates into reality. And he’s not a boring PR person, which is nice.”

Nicola Formichetti on Matthieu Bredon-Huger:

“He’s my little brother. The stylish little French brother I never had.”

www.varonmag.com

Photographer Kacper Kasprzyk
Fashion Editor Nicola Formichetti
Interview Anders Christian Madsen
All clothes Mugler autumn/winter 2011

THE DESIGN TEAMS FROM BOTH SASQUATCHfabrix AND THE INOUE BROTHERS WILL BE MAKING A VERY RARE VISIT TO LONDON TO TAKE OVER A NEW ROOM AT LN-CC FOR THE LAUNCH, SHOWCASING A SPECIALIST INSTALLATION DESIGNED TO HOUSE THE  COLLECTION. THE DESIGN OF THIS CONCEPT INSTALLATION WILL EVOKE AN ‘OTHERWORLDLY’ ATMOSPHERE AND WILL REFLECT THE ‘MODERN NINJA AND THE BLACK FIST’ THEME THROUGHOUT. 

It will be the first product-focused installation since the store opened in November 2010.

SASQUATCHfabrix is a streetwear-inspired clothing brand hailing from Tokyo and are widely recognised as ‘the future of Japanese street fashion’ and have revolutionised urban Japanese fashion culture with their unique designs and fabrications.

Sibling design duo of Danish and second-generation Japanese heritage, the Inoue Brothers are renowned for combining their creativity and styling with local indigenous skill and craftsmanship.

The Inoue Brothers regularly work on installations for Comme des Garcons and Rei Kawakubo.

This exclusive collaborative collection comprises of three classic styles from the Inoue Brothers which have then been customised or ‘Tokyo-fied’ by SASQUATCHfabrix. Each garment is constructed from Tib’s ever progressive knitwear in 100% royal alpaca customised with traditional Japanese textiles and dying techniques.

With up to 13 editions of each garment in circulation internationally, this is an extremely limited edition collection. The collaborative collection will be stocked exclusively at LN-CC outside of Japan.

The launch evening will be followed by an afterparty in the LN-CC in-store club space with music from London-based Bad Passion Project.

Visit www.ln-cc.com for more details.

LENS AT TOPMAN THIS AUTMUN SEES THREE NEW DESIGNERS; UNIFORMS FOR THE DEDICATED, DANIEL JACKSON AND DAVID DAVID JOIN THE LENS COLLECTIVE.  THESE THREE EXCITING ADDITIONS WILL SIT ALONGSIDE CURRENT LENS FAVOURITES J.W. ANDERSON, NEW POWER STUDIO, DEXTER WONG AND DUSTY.

Scandinavia’s Uniforms for the Dedicated was founded in 2007 and forms a continuously growing playground of men’s fashion, music, art projects, and film. Driven by continuous experimentation and characterised by a playful yet functional approach, Uniforms crosses elements from various design and time periods to create a line of clothing sustainable over time. Debuting with LENS this season the creativity in design is clear for all to see with Scandinavian workwear styling focusing on utility and functionality throughout.

New York’s Daniel Jackson founded the international art and design collective Surface to Air. Surface to Air gained momentum as a new, fresh, breaking-the-rules type of collective. Daniel is renowned for the design of accessories and jewellery but LENS has allowed him his first solo foray into clothing design. Daniel’s LENS AW11 collection is a homage to the Velvet Underground as ‘New York Icons’. Classic silhouettes are subverted with modern fabrications and materials in a subtle, but strong manner.

Designer David Saunders (aka David David) came to fashion via fine art, graduating from Chelsea College of Art and assisting Tracey Emin and other Young British Artists before moving into fashion in 2005. An installation at the Topman sponsored MAN show during London Fashion Week was a turning point in developing David David’s signature style of bold geometric prints which have since become synonymous with the brand and are prevalent throughout his debut LENS AW11 collection.

Now into its ninth season, LENS is the brainchild of Topman Design Director Gordon Richardson and ‘b Store’ Founder Matthew Murphy. The idea is to create a space to showcase the cream of young emerging menswear talent from both here and abroad. LENS will be available in of the Oxford Circus store Thursday September 15th to coincide with the start of London Fashion Week and will available online at topman.com, London Selfridges, New York and Chicago.

Check out Topman’s new collection with Marc Hare here.

MARC HARE, THE MAN BEHIND THE MUCH LAUDED MR HARE SHOE BRAND, IS TO LAUNCH HIS FIRST EVER FOOTWEAR COLLABORATION THIS AUTUMN WITH TOPMAN. THE MR HARE COLLECTION – WHICH WILL FORM PART OF THE TOPMAN AAA RANGE – CONTAINS 10 STYLES ACROSS BOTH SHOES AND BOOTS INCLUDING EVENING LOAFERS AND HIGH SHINE HI-TOPS.

“The inclusion of Marc Hare to Topman’s ever increasing stable of designer collaborations is such an honour. Long being a fan of his beautiful elegant understated shoes it is such a pleasure to be able to introduce this collection specifically designed for our AAA range” - Gordon Richardson, Topman Design Director.

The Marc Hare X Topman collection will launch in two parts – the first at the end of August and the second at the end of October and will be available both online and at the Oxford Circus, New York and Chicago Stores.

Check out The LENS AW11 collection from Topman here.

CELEBRITIES ALL OVER THE WORLD DRAPE THEMSELVES IN HIS DESIGNS BUT THE MAN BEHIND THE ICONIC ANDROGYNOUS FASHION BRAND UNCONDITIONAL, PHILIP STEPHENS, COULDN’T CARE LESS. 

I’ve always liked what I like to call ‘icing’. I think life is quite tough for us all. There are difficult realities that we all have to live with and then there is the ‘icing’- such as interior design, art and fashion- all those things that add a bit of colour. I’ve always had a really big interest in fashion and had a fashion PR company in the late nineties. Before that I had a go at designing and did my own collection with a friend who was a pattern-cutter. We sold to a couple of stores and I had to re-mortgage my flat but decided I wasn’t quite ready.

I started a store called Concrete eleven years ago which was a window into the work I had done in PR with other designers and it took off. We had a lot of celebrities and stylists coming in and then I did a line for the store, which was the start of Unconditional. To start with Unconditional was just two styles of knitwear for men. Factually David Beckham was the very first customer who bought Unconditional just because a box of my knitwear arrived in the store and he happened to come in to buy a pair of jeans with his stylist and ended up buying two of our cashmere sweaters.

Jude Law had his office next door, Natural Nylon which he used to have with Sadie Frost. He would come in and buy things and we used to have everybody come in. People like Gwen Stefani who would pick up Unconditional with other things we carried. I suppose really it was a case of being in the right place at the right time. A lot of stores and stylists would come to Concrete to look for trends and look at the labels we were stocking.

I think with menswear in particular when I started I saw a bit of a gap because there is a lot of really expensive designer clothing which can sometimes make you look like a Christmas tree or it’s too much of an investment or too much of a ‘look’. It was an organic process- I didn’t sit down one day and decide I was going to start a label.

When it cam to naming the brand I didn’t want to name it after myself and I love knitwear and think it’s quite cosy and you can cocoon in it and although it sounds corny  I suppose the concept of unconditional love kind of works with that- it’s a bit of unconditional love from me. Lots of people say they have been travelling in the brand and they were so cosy. I love the feeling of people being protected in it. Yes, it does sound really corny but that’s the core of what it’s about.

I love our customers- we have lots of celebrity customers but I like our ‘real’ customers- of course celebrities are ‘real too!  But we are not a brand that gives clothes to celebrities- that’s not what we are about at all. They buy it all on their own. We sell to shops all around the world and so I get feedback from who has bought things.

I think our customers are quite interesting. They tend to be cool but it’s not an age thing. I think our customers tend to be trend-led but only to a certain extent because they do their own things with the product. I like people to buy the clothes and make them their own. I hate people who think ‘This is the catwalk look so I’m going to wear it’ and it is something that puts me off doing shows sometimes because you do a catwalk show and put x with y and it suddenly becomes set in stone that that is us as a brand but it’s not like that at all- I want people to make it part of their own life.

I hate with a passion, cheap, disposable clothing but I think most of our customers don’t have masses of money- they might save for something and they will wear it out- literally. They might have had a piece for 3 or 4 seasons and then want the same style again.

The collection at the moment is quite big so there are lots of different facets to it. We have vests for £45, which is reasonable because we do use very nice fabrics. That is my bottom line- I will not economise there- it has to feel good and if it doesn’t feel good then there is no point.

I wanted to do luxury basics- pieces that you just really love- like the best hoodie but sometimes it’s quite difficult because you get caught up in this hamster-wheel of fashion where you are having to get new things out constantly. Although there are a lot of pieces that are signature pieces and are tweaked just a little bit.

Really sometimes a wheel is a circle and you can’t make it square- it has to be round and some things are perfect the first time and a design classic in essence.

It is difficult when there are other brands and stores, who shall remain nameless, who copy things and that’s a problem but luckily I think generally our quality is better and sometimes people want the original and that has happened with everyone. You can go and get a designer copy in any high-street store but everyone knows who it originated from.

I do think though that there are genuinely many things with Unconditional which are unique in themselves and to the brand.

The store in Manchester is going to evolve. With anything I do I don’t think I can settle on a finished product- I think you can do a skeleton and then re-think.

It’s like buying a new house and getting an interior designer- it can just look contrived. So you buy a few key pieces and then look at the light and maybe want to change the colour of the walls because the sunlight comes in differently in the afternoon. I think we’ll have to tweak but I like the theatre of shopping and I love the space, it’s a great, clean space- a blank canvas- and one of my biggest passions and influences is that whole Warhol Factory loft-theme and we did think about painting it silver but people would have thought ‘Oh my God you’re insane!’. I do love the industrial ceiling at the site though.

It’s not an Armani shop, that’s not what we are about. We straddle quite a lot of different places- we have some very high-end customers right to fashion students.

People pick up on the celebrity side more and more and I find that sad- I get no more of a thrill from it than other people buying my products. In fact, last night we went out and someone fell over in front of us and we got chatting and somehow Unconditional came out and she said ‘I love Unconditional! It’s iconic!’ She had bought one of our tops and then seen it copied in other stores. She said how honoured she was to meet me and that was really sweet.

There is talk of the label being ‘suited’ to London-fashion but sometimes people here are maybe more adventurous than London- it’s like music, fashion has elements of the same depending where you go. There is talk of opening a store in LA but I think with the internet and technology unfortunately more and more places are getting homogenous. Everything is everywhere and so everywhere is becoming the same a little bit. I think we should celebrate diversity a little bit more. The store here will be different to anything in London and different again to LA.

I think that within my collection my roots and my mindset is Northern- I can’t pinpoint it- I was hatched here- I am Mancunian and was absorbing things here for the first 17 years of my life. There is just something innately in me that is Mancunian.

People ask if I’m apprehensive about the launch but it’s no big deal. Well, I suppose it’s a relatively big deal. I dislike the term ‘flagship’- it’s just a store for local people- but it’s always a big deal putting things on and you have to react to what works and what doesn’t. Retail is tough but I think that if you have a good product at the right price and of good quality and those things all match there is an audience for it. If there isn’t I’ll have to start gardening and growing carrots! You’ve just got to try things haven’t you? If nobody tried anything nothing would happen.

UNCONDITIONAL Manchester is open now. Visit www.unconditional.uk.com for more information.

Words and images Lucy Zellerbach-Adams

WORDS SPREAD LIKE WILDFIRE AMONGST THE FASHION CONSCIOUS TWITTER CROWD AND IT WAS THERE THAT RUMOURS OF A VERSACE/H & M COLLABORATION FIRST SURFACED. AND, AS THE WHISPERS OF RYAN GIGG’S INFIDELITY WERE EVENTUALLY CONFIRMED, SO TO WERE THESE RUMOURS AS H & M TODAY CONFIRMED THE IMPENDING PAIRING.

“I am thrilled to be collaborating with H&M and to have the opportunity of reaching their wide audience. The collection will be quintessential Versace, perfect for H&M and Versace fans everywhere,” says Donatella Versace.

The Versace for H&M collection will take inspiration from the Italian fashion house’s heritage and include the brand’s signatures of prints, colour, leather and other exclusive materials at H&M prices – well a little marked up from usual H&M prices.

The womenswear collection will be dominated by dresses that fit right in with the spirit of the season, featuring studded leather and colourful prints, with accessories including high heels and costume jewellery while the men’s collection will focus on sharp tailoring, including the perfect tuxedo, as well as belts and jewellery.

For the first time in a designer collaboration at H&M the collection will consist of some homeware pieces, including cushions and a bedspread.

“Versace is one of the most important brands of recent times, and their collection for H&M will be glamorous and flamboyant – everything Versace stands for. Donatella Versace is sharing with us iconic designs from the archives. This is such a celebratory collaboration and is perfect for the party season,” says Margareta van den Bosch, creative advisor at H&M.

We suspect that Donatella has been going through the Versace archives for a few weeks now, with Lady Gaga being wearing several vintage Versace pieces as she tours Europe.

The first Versace for H&M collection will be the Autumn 2011 collection set to drop on November 17, 2011, while a pre-spring collection will drop in countries with H&M online sales on January 19th, 2012.

We can’t wait to see what Donatella has in store for us – we love the black sandals on the model above – and if previous collaborations with the likes of Lanvin, Karl Lagerfeld and Jimmy Choo are anything to go by, there will be lines around the block for this one.

www.hm.com

Words Graham Gartside -Bernier

THE ENFANT TERRIBLE OF THE FASHION WORLD, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER, IS  GOING ON TOUR. WELL, NOT THE MAN HIMSELF, BUT SOME OF HIS HIS MOST FANTASTIC PIECES ARE. THE MONTREAL MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS’ JEAN PAUL GAULTIER EXHIBITION OPENEND THIS WEEKEND BEFORE THE COLLECTION EMBARKS ON A WORLDWIDE TOUR.

Marking the 35th anniversary of the designer’s label, ‘The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk’ showcases 140 examples of the artist’s work including his old teddy bear decked out in a paper bosom to Madonna’s corsets and a parrot feather bolero.

No era of Gaultier’s goes unacknowledged: there are the quintessentially French-striped shirts, but there are also Mohawk and tartan-sporting mannequins, over-the-top eveningwear, and yes, that conical bra!

Interestingly, while we’re on the topic of Madge, Gaultier once revealed he proposed to Madonna three times because she was the only woman he could have sex with.

The exhibition includes about 140 ensembles, but also sketches, fashion photography, and excerpts from films, runway shows, performances and more, in six different sections: The Odyssey of Jean Paul Gaultier; The Boudoir; Skin Deep; Eurostar; Urban Jungle; and Metropolis.

“Beyond the technical virtuosity resulting from exceptional expertise in the various skills involved in haute couture, an unbridled imagination and ground‐breaking artistic collaborations, he offers an open‐minded vision of society, a crazy, sensitive, funny, sassy world in which everyone can assert his or her own identity, a world without discrimination, a unique ‘fusion couture,’” said Nathalie Bondil, the museum’s director and chief curator, in a statement. “Beneath Jean Paul Gaultier’s wit and irreverence lie a true generosity of spirit and a very powerful message for society. His humanist aesthetic touches me deeply.”

ONCE AGAIN IT WAS TIME FOR ONE OF THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS FASHION SCHOOLS TO HOST THEIR GRADUATE SHOW. WITH PRIZES UP FOR GRABS FOR THE BEST USE OF TRIMMINGS AND INNOVATIVE USE OF FABRICS, THE COLLECTIONS WERE COLOURFUL AND THICK WITH TEXTURES.

A few well known faces scattered the aisles including fashion entrepreneur Harold Tillman, Jo Wood and a scattering of writer and fashion illustrators.

Every collection down that came down the catwalk was like a fairy tale meets a South American tribal twist. Beads and bells dangled from fur and knitwear. Leather worked alongside silk and a clash of colours sped down the runway. Pockets were shaped and closed like old fashion purses with gold clasps, bags were used as hats and faces were masked with woven sacks. There was also an element of high end sportswear thrown in. There was so much to look at it was easy to miss the details that went into the collections.

Draping and layering was a standout theme. One of the best examples of this was Yingzhi Luo – Chi Chi’s use of African printed chiffon, layered with pleated and beaded Maypole dancing strips of fabric.

Menswear was well put together and many had a fresh approach to the norm and had obviously thought outside the box.  Jung Yeon Chae’s collection pleated mackintoshes and shorts gave an almost Scottish Kilt. The men looked sleek in greys, blacks and whites, with leggings underneath, not at all feminine.  Jaeho Choi’s ying and yang menswear tailoring with large oversized bags gave a refreshing modern element to the usual.

Sean McGirr did a more gothic look, with high platform shoes, oversized knits and heavy metal inspired baggy trousers and Nair Afonso Xavier produced a line of wearable 80’s inspired wearable bright gym wear with poncho style jackets and fitted shirts.

Barnett Lawson Best use of trimmings winner was deservedly Charlotte Barry. Her volcanic gold goddess dresses were every woman’s dream. Detailed coats added to the luxurious dresses.

Biddie Sawyer Silks Award Innovative use of Fabrics was Stine Riis. Shiny materials and matt were added to leather to give a shimmery effect. Deep greens and blues coupled with red blue and grey  furs made this collection the most ready to wear, and appealing to the power dressing female form.

Nova Chiu, winner of Collection of the Year, sent goose pimples down the audience with her jungle pearly queen collection. Bright primary coloured fur detailing, with baby blue beads and tie dyed skin tight fabrics looked beautiful and exotic amongst the woven South American weaved jackets and skirts. You could hear the bells jangling down the catwalk, transforming you to a different culture.

Check out our LCF Capsule #3  Exhibition article here.

Words Jennifer Butler  Images Alex Maguire / Chris Moore – catwalking.com

IT IS ALWAYS DIFFICULT AS A MENSWEAR DESIGNER TO PUSH THE BOUNDARIES AND OPEN NEW AVENUES, BUT BROOKLYN BASED RAUN LAROSE HAS SMARTENED UP TO TAKE ON THE COMPETITION. JENNIFER BUTLER OF AGENT2 MAGAZINE SPOKE TO THE LAROSE ABOUT HIS LOVE OF ARCHITECTURE AND WHAT MADE HIM GO INTO MENSWEAR.

There is a lot of black and white and symmetry in your collection.  How has being bought up in New York and living there influenced your designs?

Black and white will always be a timeless classic. For my collection, less is definitely more. Growing up in New York has definitely influenced my work and my perception on Fashion. My main reason for pursuing menswear was because I lost interest in what the market had to offer.

What other aspects have influenced your designs?

I have a huge love for architecture. I always try to incorporate architectural influences in my collections. The more I develop as a designer the more I see myself becoming obsessed with shapes and trying to figure out ways to create new silhouettes.

What made you get into designing clothes, in particular menswear?

I have always had a major love for fashion since I was a little boy. My mum was a seamstress. I used to observe her and how much time and effort she put into her work. I always knew I wanted to pursue a career in fashion, but it wasn’t until age 21 that I knew I wanted to pursue a career in menswear. My main reason for pursuing menswear was because I lost interest in what the market had to offer.

What kind of image are you trying to create with this collection? Who wears your clothes?

I am really not concerned with building an image for my collections. I design clothes for the individual who is seeking a change.

You use a lot of different textures and materials in your work. What made you choose to do this in your collection?

I always like to incorporate an element of unexpectedness in my designs. The inspiration behind my current collection came from a book I had read entitled “Time Traveller” by Dr Donald Mallet. I used a lot of high quality fabrics (boucle, wools, cotton poplins) as well as a few unexpected (Neoprene, Foam, Swarovski crystals, Organza). I’m all for showcasing people in a new way.

An element of your collection that sticks out to me is that many of your jumpers and under garments fall below the knee, with tight leggings underneath. Tell me about your decisions when designing?

Whenever I start the creative process for a collection I usually isolate myself for a few months and focus on what it is exactly that I want to convey. For fall I was inspired by Dr Mallets and I was fascinated by the author’s vision of creating a time machine that could visit both past and future. After reading the book I formed this character in my mind, the young man who is a risk taker and wants to lead his generation into the future that is before us. Although he sometimes looks to the past his mind is focused on the future and what it has in store.

What is next for you? How would you like to progress?

I’m preparing to debut my Summer/Spring 2012 collection in Amsterdam during International Fashion Week. As for progression I hope to start selling my collections as well as be granted more opportunities to showcase my work to the public.

Interview Jennifer Butler

“At Teenage Cancer Trust we are thrilled to be working with Topman to raise awareness and vital funds for young people with cancer. Topman have come on board as supporters for the next three years, the difference they can make will be huge,” says Simon Davies, CEO Teenage Cancer Trust.

Every day six young people in the UK are told they have cancer. Teenage Cancer Trust units have a home-from-home atmosphere to create a sense of normality. The units are bright and vibrant and will often include things like pool tables, jukeboxes, games consoles, computers and webcams, to ensure they can keep in touch with family friends outside hospital.

The Topman sunglasses for Teenage Cancer Trust’s ‘Rock Your Shades’ can be purchased from all Topman stores and online at topman.com and are available now costing £16 each, with £5 of every pair sold donated to the charity.

Words Graham Gartside Bernier

NEXT MONTH THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART IN NEW YORK IS TO HOST ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: SAVAGE BEAUTY, CELEBRATING THE LATE DESIGNER’S EXTRAORDINARY CONTRIBUTION TO FASHION. THE LANDMARK EXHIBITION WILL CHART MCQUEEN’S 19-YEAR RISE FROM ENFANT TERRIBLE TO ONE OF THE LEADING DESIGNERS OF OUR TIME.

Curator Andrew Bolton, working in conjunction with Sam Gainsbury and Joseph Bennett, the production designers responsible for McQueen’s extravagant fashion shows, has organized the exhibition thematically, in keeping with recurring concepts inherent within the designer’s work. “His fashions were an outlet for his emotions”, Bolton explained, “an expression of the deepest, often darkest, aspects of his imagination. He was a true romantic in the Byronic sense of the word – he channeled the sublime.” Rooms, including ‘Romantic Gothic’ and ‘The Savage Mind’, will delve deep into McQueen’s characters, and his obsession with Romantic literary traditions.

The exhibition, which will be held in the second-floor Cantor galleries, will feature approximately 100 pieces designed by McQueen. Signature designs, including McQueen’s iconic bumster trouser, will be on display. Taken primarily from the McQueen archive in London, the exhibition will be supported by garments from the Givenchy archive and private collections. Pieces from longtime collaborators milliner Philip Treacy and jeweler Shaun Leane will also be on display.

The exhibition launch will coincide with the Met’s Costume Institute Gala Benefit, with Honorary Chairs François-Henri Pinault and Salma Hayek, a fitting nod to the theatricality that characterized the designer. Thomas P.Campbell, Director of the Museum commented, “Alexander McQueen’s iconic designs constitute the work of an artist whose medium of expression was fashion. This landmark exhibition continues the Museum’s tradition of celebrating designers who changed the course of history and culture by creating new possibilities.”

From 4 May – 31 July 2011

www.metmuseum.org

Words Graham Gartside Bernier

JEANS AND DENIM HAVE SUCH STYLE THAT THEY WILL NEVER GO OUT OF FASHION. THIS IS A CERTAINTY. WHETHER IT’S THE SUCCESSFUL SKINNY JEAN, OR THE SLOUCHY BOYFRIEND JEAN, IT IS MERELY THE SHAPE THAT COMES AND GOES.

A good tip is to keep hold of your favourite pairs, fold them at the back of your wardrobe, and wait for their turn to come again. And it is a fashion fact that they will.  While seasons come and go, all that is likely to differ when it comes to denim, is the tapering, or tailoring. Outfits and ensembles are dependent on classic jeans to give edge, shape, texture and an instant fashion update.

This season sees jeans get feminine and Fawcett. It is a look not long forgotten; the flared look was around only several season ago.  Bring on the 70s Boho-inspired denim flare, sported by Charlie’s Angel’s beauty, Farah Fawcett. High-waisted light and dark denim have been swaying down catwalks and are the choice item for shops and boutiques.

As spring looks go, it’s a very pretty one, and befits the floral, chiffon and neutral blouses that are also in fashions. In fact, denim this spring, in flare-form, perfectly complements the spring season’s fashion for loud and bright colours, particularly block colours. Pick and choose satin and silk blouses that drape and soak the skin in bold and brash hues like brick reds, salmon pinks and aquamarine blues. Gold, corals and regal purples are also big hits on the catwalk.

Tuck these blouses in, to high-waisted flares, to tone down any over impact, and break the two items up with a tan leather belt, another classic colour which tends to go with everything.  A belly-length gold chain and some tan heels will complete a very fashionable Fendi look.

For a more high street version of this glossy ensemble, look no further than the fashion pages of the New Look website. There, you’ll find all the treasures of the season, including flared jeans, which are flattering on all shapes and sizes of female. From skinny to bootcut flares, have a browse for a pair to wear this season.

IN A WAREHOUSE SOMEWHERE IN HACKNEY, JENNY BUTLER WENT TO CHAT TO THE LATEST STUDENT OF CENTRAL SAINT MARTIN’S TO MAKE HER NAME AS AN UP AND COMING DESIGNER.  FLIK HALL SPOKE TO ME ABOUT HER LOVE OF PRINTS, SHARP SILHOUETTES AND THE OCCASIONAL DOLLS ARM.

From doing her foundation course in Fashion Print at Central Saint Martin’s this young designer interned with house of Holland and Giles. “Originally I wanted to be a fine artist. I enjoyed painting the body, making collages and putting textiles on mannequins. I realised at 17 or 18 that I wanted to pursue a career in fashion design”

Flik’s mother was a jewellery collector which gave her an early start at seeing how fashion changes over time. “The shape of the jewellery use to interest me and how it could be made into clothes. I like the idea that my clothes have texture, different tones and interesting shapes.”

The dolls arm necklace from her Spring/ Summer 2011 Mannequin Parade collection has been the talking point of Flik’s work. “I realise how lucky I am to live in London. You can wear whatever you want here and everyone here wants to experiment. In Paris the dolls limbs were seen as being a little odd. That wasn’t the case in London.”

Her idea stemmed from looking at alters in Mexico. “There was a jumble of toys on the Mexican alters and the colours were all very watered down. There were no dramatic tones and this interested me. Hessian was also a big part of their culture so I decided to incorporate this into my collection.”

Her new collection, which is still in its early days, is a lot darker then her previous collection. It still integrates a number of fabrics together to create an almost futuristic look. The shiny and matt contrast, silk and wool, and metallic leathers shows a designer who is very sure of her direction.

“I had been reading a lot of philosophy and I felt very dark. I asked myself ‘do we really have free will, and what would happen if we don’t?’ One of the dresses prints comes from me looking down at houses in London from a bird’s eye view. I wanted to look at who was in control, are there other driving forces, things that we can’t control that are already laid out for us?”

Her latest signing to Blow PR will mean we see a lot more of this young designer. Her next step will be London Fashion Week, but she has been given the luxury from her PR company to develop her line and experiment.

Words Jennifer Butler

‘SEE MY SMILE. SEE MY STYLE. SEE MY DISABILITY’

WHEELCHAIR USERS FROM AROUND D THE COUNTRY TOOK PART IN A HIGH PROFILE CHARITY FASHION SHOW, ‘DISABLED & SEXY: SEE MY SMILE. SEE MY STYLE. SEE MY DISABILITY’ WHICH WAS HELD AT THE TABERNACLE IN NOTTING HILL, LONDON IN LATE 2010.

Tess Daly, 21, post-graduate Image Consultancy and Fashion Styling student and wheelchair user was one of the main organisers of this event.

“After seeing programmes such as ‘Britain’s Missing Top Model’ and ‘How To Look Good Naked With A Difference’,  I wanted to revisit the idea of disability within fashion and show that people with even the most severe of disabilities can be sexy, follow fashion and display individuality,” said Tess.

I believe that people with severe disabilities are not only ignored within the fashion industry, but that they are also thought of in a stereotypically negative way by the general public. My hope is that this show will broaden the public’s horizons and encourage disability to be more accepted within our society.”

Like Tess many of the disabled models featured at the show suffer from Spinal Muscular Atrophy (SMA), a neuromuscular disorder that is characterised by a degeneration of motor neurones, resulting in severe muscle weakness. Although SMA has a varying degree of effects, a very large proportion of those who have SMA are able to lead relatively active lives, but rely on the use of electric wheelchairs.

The show was raising money for The Jennifer Trust (Registered Charity No. 1106815) which is the only national charity in the UK dedicated both to supporting people affected by SMA, and investing in essential research into causes, treatments and eventually a cure for the condition.

Hosting the event was ‘Britain’s Missing Top Model’ judge, TV presenter and fashion agent Jonathan Phang. Model and wheelchair user Shannon Murray, who recently featured in high street Giants Debenhams advertising campaign, was one of the models who cruised down the catwalk. Debenhams showed its support by supplying a trendy menswear collection of checked shirts and leather jackets.

This was followed by a bespoke collection by new label ‘Too Many Dresses’. Founded in 2010 by Zoe Elley and Alice Bogunovic, they combine traditional looks with the avant-garde and created bondage accessory pieces worn by Tess Daly herself – as stylist of the event she certainly stood out. The Sex- Factor was provided by donated Ann Summers lingerie and Tess and her models, Tumu Johnson, Jay Taveno, Amy Dunn and Sophie Cox all cruised down the catwalk looking sultry and sexy.

Able-bodied models also took part in the show and strutted their stuff with accessories such as ‘Glam Sticks’ – jewel-encrusted crutches made by Debbie Deboo. Channel Four’s Jon Snow brought further glamour to the event, auctioneering a collection of luxury items donated by high fashion labels such as Miu Miu, Paul Smith and Miglio. The Glam Sticks of the catwalk were also auctioned off and fetched a large amount.

Disabled and Sexy? Those who took part in this show certainly were!

For more information on The Jennifer Trust and/or Spinal Muscular Atrophy, please visit www.jtsma.org.uk

Words Almaz Ohene

LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION PRESENTED AN EXTRAORDINARY CATWALK SHOW TO SHOWCASE THE IMPRESSIVE COLLECTIONS FROM 22 MA FASHION DESIGN AND TECHNOLOGY STUDENTS. THE FASHION AFFAIR TOOK PLACE IN THE STUNNING RAPHAEL GALLERY AT THE V&A MUSEUM. BFC CHAIRMAN HAROLD TILLMAN, CEO OF WHISTLES, JANE SEPHERDSON, CELEBRITIES SUCH AS JO WOODS, LULU GUINNESS, GRAYSON PERRY AND BUYERS, DIRECTORS AND PRESS WERE THERE TO DISCOVER THE NEW STARS OF THE FASHION WORLD.

Italian designer Matteo Molinari deservedly won and emotionally received The Collection of the Year Award for his beautiful menswear collection, where modern tailoring is fused with traditional craft and crochet. Jo Power, Mio Jin and Queenie Huang were also shortlisted for the prestigious award.

Shortlisted designer Jo Power opened the catwalk with a womenswear collection of clean lines and strong silhouettes which hid impressively the complex pattern cutting.

Her collection examines the parallels between space, time, perspective and spatial form. Jo has already worked with renowned emerging designers such as Peter Hornstein and Ostwald Helgeson and is looking to create her own label.

Collection of the Year winner Matteo Molinari showcased a collection inspired by his fascination for the small dots, lines and circles printed onto white paper that his family uses to create crochet lace. His sophisticated black and white designs mix Italian manufacture, Japanese fabrics and hand stitching and crochet creating a luxurious and desirable feel but also hugely emotional and personal.

Matteo’s collection will be available to order shortly and his line of sunglasses and glasses is already in the market.

Jia Ju’s immaculately tailored collection plays with androgyny, featuring women in tuxedos, tails and waistcoats in navy, grey and cream colours. Jia combines curves and straight lines, creating pieces that appear to be one when they are actually two and vice versa.

Jia would like work in London after graduation and sell her collection.

Fang Fang’s collection ‘The Paradox Circle’ is an examination about life being a circle, where birth signifies the beginning and death the end. In the process, Fang discovers the paradox and contradictions in life as there is no beginning without end and, therefore, the dualities of life (bad/good, truth/lie, life/death…) can’t exist without each other. Her high end menswear line showcases simple silhouettes, precision pattern cutting, fine manufacture and outstanding detailing.

After graduation, she would like to gain further work experience and set up her own business.

Thatwasin Boat Khajeenikorn’s collection ‘The Unsatisfied’ explores the never-ending human search for perfection through plastic surgery, deconstructing the basis of pattern shapes and creating a new silhouette in the form of ‘structure draping’.

Thatwasin inserts womenswear details such as embroideries and embellishments into his menswear collection to create different dimensions and perceptions.

Thatwasin worked as backstage stylist at Elle Fashion Week and Bangkok International Fashion Week from 2007 to 2009.

Susana Bettencourt’s womenswear collection was born by the need to outbrave grief to reach well-being and is inspired by the mourning traditions of African tribes where wounds are created in the skin to represent emotional injury and to help the person heal physically and psychologically. Susana has partnered with Factory Parrilus to create body shaping knitwear pieces made of lycra, viscose and wool. Her aim is to create garments that can be worn by different body shapes.

Susana would like to work for a strong label to further develop her skills.

Yan Liang’s menswear collection ‘Mixture’ analyzes the relation between malformations and deformed trees creating garments made from wood and raw materials that reminiscence Pinocchio. Yan’s designs are humorous and playful but also chic and elegant.

Yan wants to express his thoughts and lifestyle through fashion design.

Paul Beckett’s menswear collection “SPORNO” explores masculinity through the fetishisation of sportswear creating a ‘footballer chic’ look where sports-meets-fashion-meets-sophistication-meets-comfort. His running shorts and 90’s inspired shellsuits are made of luxurious nappa leather and stone washed silk. Paul uses hi-tech performance fabrics that repel water and U. V. rays and resist tearing.

Nicola Formichetti, the man responsible for Lady Gaga’s fashion invasion and the rebirth of Vogue Hommes Japan, and photographer Steven Klien shot his collection, giving Paul worldwide coverage.

Dinu Bodiciu presented a very innovative, creative and futuristic womenswear collection inspired by the thin boundary between illusion and reality. Dinu explores the effects of the mirror on our bodies, the way it turns 3-dimensional shapes into 2-dimensional, and plays with our perception, giving her collection a certain flatness of quality. Organic fabrics and pastel colours are combined with bright red in a collection that emphasizes the power-shoulders trend.

Dinu has already launched in Romania her own brand of hand-bags, 3RROR, and would like to collaborate with other fashion brands as well as continue working and promoting her own label.

Asger Larsen’s menswear collection ‘Uncle Sam’ is inspired by the fashion culture in North America in the 1860s during its civil war. Sharp and structured silhouettes in grey and dark colours reflect his ideas of gothic America. His designs are made of soft cashmere wool, Japanese denim and Nappa leather and the shoes and boots used to accessorize his collection are the result of a collaboration with British footwear brand Underground.

Asger has already showcased his work at London, Berlin and New York fashion weeks and been featured in publications such as Vogue Italy, 125 Magazine and Dazed Digital.

Shortlisted Queenie Huang’s menswear collection is about personal boundaries and combines silk jacquard with flat fabrics using the Tanaka technique. Queenie mixes modern art and traditional tailoring to express the feeling of protection and vulnerability. Her collection is inspired by Geometric shapes and Chinese philosophy creating a sophisticated look that plays with proportions and conventional garment shapes.

Tim Rhys-Evans gets inspired by Elizabethan dresses to create contemporary striking silhouettes that reflect a new take on female power dressing. Tim has used the ruff as starting point to highlight the focus on the upper body and eliminate the neck and shoulders from view. All the pieces from his collection are black and have been made using tactile and luxurious fabrics such as French Chantilly lace, silk chiffons, black fox fur and patent leather.

Tim BA’s collection was featured in Elle magazine and he would like to work for a luxury brand in Paris.

Yao Xiao focuses on the idea ‘Otaku’, a modern Japanese slang which means nerd, to create a fun and creative womenswear collection full of flowing dresses and draped jersey pieces in black, white, beige and pink colours. Yao has used plain fabrics made of natural materials to express softness and comfort but also to highlight the contrast between fabrics, crochet and knit textures.

Yao would like to work for a high end womenswear brand before starting her own business.

Shortlisted Mio Jin’s menswear collection is a reflection of her skills as a fine artist combining high tech and traditional tailoring fabrics. A palette of gold, purple and grey colours bring each outfit together through a clever construction of panels and colour. Mio has used silk screen printing to print her own drawings onto the t-shirts creating an elaborated show where the models stood for a while, took off their jackets and showed their underwear like in a saloon show.

Ongun Ulker’s menswear collection is inspired by the parallels between architecture, drawing and fashion. Suede and fur has been used in his designs to add texture and also linear panelling, both flat and 3D patterns, to create bold graphic effects. His collection is mainly made of wool, silk, cotton blend semi-transparent and structured organza but he has also used new techno fabrics (in his trench coats), fur and leather.

Fashion designers Nicholas Komor, Jennifer Morris, Marios Antoniou, Chang Wook ‘Jay’ Kang, Eunmi Hwang and Nam Young Kim also presented their MA collections.

Louise Simmonds closed the catwalk with a collection influenced by Imperial Russia and Faberge, a famous artist in that time. Most of her collection has been cut using a 45 degree angle, creating a classical triangular shape which became the basis for her silhouette. Striking long coats in opulent colours and luxurious fabrics were the main highlight in a collection which aspires to provoke desire and emotion.

Louise had the support of a team of high skilled masters from Copenhagen and Swarovski crystals to produce an elaborate collection, where some of her hand made pieces have taken weeks to create.

Louise’s collection will be available for sale and she is currently seeking to work for a luxury house.

Over 4,500 people worldwide logged onto the LFC website to watch the show streamed live and winner Matteo Molinari’s page was the most popular profile on Showtime, the new LFC talent portal.

Words Veronica Carpio Martin  Images Dan Harley

AT THE TENDER AGE OF 24, MICHAEL KAMPE IS MAKING A SPLASH IN THE FASHION WORLD. HIS EXPLOSIONS OF LARGE PRINTS, TREATED DENIM AND 3D STRUCTURES HAVE IMPRESSED THE LIKES OF DIESEL. JENNIFER BUTLER SPOKE TO THE YOUNG GERMAN DESIGNER ABOUT MAKING AVANT-GARDE WEARABLE AND PUSHING THE BOUNDARY OF MENSWEAR.

What made you want to become a designer? In particular why did you choose menswear?

In my youth I wanted to become a cook, but since I sketched my first designs by the age of 18, I was fascinated. I then taught myself tailoring without any books or teachers and only by ‘reading’ clothes. When I felt that my 2D ideas could become alive in 3D, I knew at that moment that this was what I wanted to do.

I make most of the clothes I wear myself because the feedback you get from a person you might not even know is the best you can get. To focus then later on Menswear came very naturally.

I am designing for Women as well, but Menswear always inspires me because of its rules and clearness of construction.

Functionality, urban wear and uniforms together with a cool, masculine image of a man inspire my work. Especially in Avant-garde, you rarely encounter good menswear. The type of man I am designing for should never appear ‘goofy’ even though some of my designs are not ‘wearable’.

Who are your clothes designed for?

My philosophy is to show new directions in Urban and denim wear far from mass market production, focussed on an individual, single piece.

To achieve this, I developed a unique production technique, ranging from deconstructing classical pattern to mixing different materials, all-over digital printing and a modern art influenced patchwork construction of garments.

To offer a unique product, the pieces are completely hand-made with individual treatment. This means that my clothes are directed towards customers who are more collectors than consumers.

Do you feel living in Berlin has influenced you designing?

Berlin has always been my biggest inspiration. When I find the time I am doing trips around the city, walking from galleries to Museums and Libraries and visiting small concerts in cosy basement clubs, which are a great influence.

Why did you choose to use large bold prints and 3D?

The contrast between the movement in the prints and the clean constructed lines of the 3D elements is very interesting to me. Also, the opportunity I had was to work them in a massive way all over the body, the sleeves, back, hood, even inside the jackets. I enjoy reconstructing classic silhouettes.

Why did you choose to use denim?

It`s a fabric that gives you so much opportunities to work with. You can be rough with it like with a very heavy one for work wear or sensible with a thin one for girls.

Jeans are something many run from screaming because has become so normal, but for me, reinterpreting the normal in an avant-gardistic way is the real challenge.

Your menswear is quite fresh and edgy; do you think your youthful approach helped you get the Diesel Prize?

Yes, because my intention in creating the latest collection was much more about showing my new directions than wearable pieces, especially in menswear.

It is important for me that if you would reduce the showy elements in some pieces, for example reducing the foam in the parka, sticks around the coat; blocks off the jacket, they become interesting wearable garments. Otherwise they would be costumes and this is not what I want to create. The reference to wearable pieces has to be obvious, but not too easy to identify.

You are quite a young designer. What has been the highlight of your career so far?

Being trained in Antwerp was very intense and the International appreciation for my work is a wonderful reward.

What plans do you have for the future?

I want to keep on working in a team for a brand and gain experience for my own label there as well. Besides I will keep on working on my own label ‘MICHAEL KAMPE’.

Words Jennifer Butler

JERSEY HAS A REPUTATION FOR BEING JUST A COMFORTABLE FABRIC FOR DAYWEAR AND HOLIDAYS. UK DESIGNER DUO NANCY DEE IS CHANGING ALL THAT WITH HER FIGURE-HUGGING, 50S-INSPIRED PIECES.

Sister Tamsin and Seraphina launched Nancy Dee in 2008. Environment-aware and silhouette-flattering, their retro-inspire creations reinvent the easy-to-wear jersey dress. Jennifer Butler caught up with Tamsin to talk Dracula, ethical clothing and the introduction of trousers in the collection.

How did your upbringing help you develop a passion for fashion?

When we were really young, we used to make clothes for our dolls using scraps of old fabric and our Mum’s sewing machine – it was far more interesting styling our dolls than actually playing with them! We were both obsessed by Bram Stoker’s Dracula and I recreated the red dress Winona Ryder wears in the film for the dolls. Seraphina also used the film for her dissertation examining the symbolic use of costume in film.

At secondary school, I started making my own clothes because no one on the high street at that time made clothes long enough for girls over 6 foot! Seraphina, being young enough not to recognise my fashion disasters, was apparently inspired by the crazy things I used to make, and more embarrassingly, wear.

How have your travels influenced the clothes you make?

For me, it was more about using social and trade policies to improve the welfare in developing countries, building upon what I had learned from my second degree. Seeing at firsthand the extreme poverty and hand-to-mouth existence in many parts of Asia forced me to look at how our industries directly impacted upon others, and also how they can be used to lift people out of poverty, for example, as the fairtrade movement is aiming to do.

What made you decide to go into ethical fashion?

It was less of a decision to go “ethical” and more about just wanting to do it “right”. Seraphina wanted to turn her designs into a business, and I joined forces with her to launch Nancy Dee in 2008. We were adamant right from the start that if we were to bring another clothing label into this world, it had to have minimal negative impact, socially and environmentally. It does make everything that much harder and expensive, but it was a moral decision for us, we just wanted to do things properly. We’ve still got some way to go in improving our environmental footprint, but we are working on it.

What is next for the Nancy Dee line and where would you like to see it go in the future?

We are introducing separates for the first time for spring/summer 2011. We’ve had an amazing response from boutiques looking to buy our jersey trousers. We will expand our range of fabrics to include modal, linen and silk.

We’re concerned by the air miles used to transport clothes from Asia to Europe, so we are looking into moving part of our production back here to a lovely little factory in the Midlands. It will always have to be a compromise, because production is cheaper in India and allows us to sell ethical clothes at the prices we do, but we want to bring some of it back to the areas here in the UK that used to have a thriving clothing manufacture industry before it became so easy to get everything made in China.

Tell us about where your clothing comes from?

The pieces are currently manufactured in India, by a family-run factory with SA 8000:2001 certification from Social Accountability, as well as certification from Fairtrade Labelling Organisation (FLO). Although the FLO status relates only to 100% cotton products, it is a very good benchmark for us, as it is the same workers that sew our clothes as make the FLO certified pieces.

The fabric comes from India, and we use a range of sustainable jerseys, from organic cotton to modal to soya bean. The autumn/winter 2010 collection was all made from a super soft blend of bamboo, organic cotton and elastane for stretch.

Why did you decide to use Jersey?

Seraphina prefers to design in jersey. At the time we launched, no one else was specialising in jersey. It is still quite hard to find retro prints like ours on jersey fabrics. Also, jersey has a great versatility about it – people think it’s really casual, but we’re trying to prove that it can also be worn in the office, at a party or on holiday.

Who wears your clothing?

Our customer age range is really wide – some of the pieces appeal to younger women because they are short or a bit clingy, but we’ve had feedback from Equa in London that they’ve had women of 50-plus in buying our pieces!

Seraphina designs with two hats on and tries to create something for everyone. A lot of women are scared of jersey and think it’s always clingy or tight, but her designs try to introduce clever pleating here and there to flatter the figure, sleeves to hide arm-worries or clever positioning of sash bow ties to distract from tummies.

It appeals to quite a wide range of women because they are such easy styles to wear, and you can really make them your own with jewellery or accessories.

www.nancydee.co.uk

Words Jennifer Butler

INSPIRED BY SOUTH AMERICAN COLOURS, FASHION GRADUATE STEPHANIE GOYNES IS REDEFINING OUR VISION OF KNITWEAR. JENNIFER BUTLER MET WITH THE DESIGNER WITH JACQUARD ON HER MIND.

Stephanie Goynes has just finished a degree at the London School of Fashion but she has already made a statement with her eye popping knits. Her Aztec styles and rainbow colours are a far cry from grandma’s fleecy number and bring the classic cardi into the 21^st century.

A whole outfit made from knitwear is a daring statement, but the South American-inspired colours and textures help make every garment look different and fresh.

“I used Native American Basketry, with the idea of converting traditional weaving techniques into knitwear. The vibrant patterns formed in the weaving process inspired the Jacquard designs, and the surface texture of baskets themselves some of the other pieces. I wanted to transform the historical basketry of Native America into knitwear -challenging weave to combine with knit,” explained the Goynes.

So why choose to do knitwear? It is not the sexiest of materials and maybe not one that you would see filling a whole collection on the catwalk?

“I fell into knitwear finding it was a fantastic way of satisfying my mathematical and technical approach to a creative trait. I love to pick colour and texture in yarn form then develop my fabric from there. I’ve always been textile orientated and knitwear allows that to play a major role in designing.”

Her love of knitwear is more than apparent, having done work experience with knitwear specialist Sibling of London and Eley Kishimoto.

At the moment there are no plans to develop her own brand but to have a bit of time after the great wealth of knowledge she was taught at LSF.

“In the future I hope to do some freelance work or settle into a company with a creative team I feel at home with, my own stuff will be taking a back seat for now. I’ve received some really flattering feedback, been in contact with a few companies and had a couple of interviews but I’ll wait and see!” said Goynes.

Sadly her last collection was only one offs, but she has done some special commissions and at AGENT2, we are tempted to add ourselves to the list to get a cardigan for the cold winter months ahead.

Words Jennifer Butler

STARTING A GREEN FOOTWEAR BUSINESS IN FRANCE DURING ONE OF THE WORST RECESSIONS IN HISTORY MIGHT SEEM LIKE A BAD IDEA. STUDENTS FREDERIC MUGNIER AND NICOLAS ROHR HOWEVER TURNED THEIR BUSINESS PLAN INTO A SUCCESS STORY THANKS TO THE QUALITY OF THEIR PRODUCTS AND THEIR ECO ENGAGEMENT.

For all you green fingered individuals out there, it is now time to get green footed. Faguo has brought out a new pair of pumps that are eco friendly and perfect for that preppy tennis look.

The new, limited edition shoe, called Chevron, is part of the FIR collection encapsulating the vintage style of a warm day in Monte Carlo.

They are easily recognisable by the cute coconut button sewn on each shoe, which symbolises the brands commitment to the environment and adds a bit of hippy chic to the shoe.

Eco shoes are a huge trend at the moment with ethical fashion more impressed on people’s minds. The brand concept is simple: for each pair of sneakers sold, Faguo plants a tree. The goal is to balance the CO² the company emits.

Faguo is a French brand created by two students, Frédéric Mugnier and Nicolas Rohr, nearly two years ago, when the two friends went to China for six months to study. The word “Faguo” means “France” in Chinese, more precisely, “Country of Laws and Manners”. Regarding laws, the brand has only one: protecting the environment.

Since the beginning, the founders have been pioneering new ways of judging their carbon footprint and of protecting the environment. They decided to calculate the company carbon rate created by the production of shoes.

The storage and shipment of the shoes is taken care by ESAT, a work integration centre in the Parisian suburb. This centre gives disabled people the opportunity of a paid activity, as well as an access to a social and professional life.

The original collection of Faguo is the OAK line, made from cotton and rubber in 9 colours. This collection enabled Faguo to be recognised as a Young Talent during the trade show Who’s Next 2010. In May 2010 the two founders won the MoovJee Prize, a French award rewarding the best companies started by students.

Words Jennifer Butler