ON | OFF: LOUSIE AMSTRUP

FASHION DESIGNER LOUISE AMSTRUP PRESENTED A REBELLIOUS AND ‘POLITICALLY INCORRECT’ COLLECTION, DRAWING ON AMERICAN YOUTH REVOLUTION THROUGH THE LAST CENTURY, AT MERCER STUDIOS IN COVENT GARDEN, LONDON.

Amstrup’s collection ‘Born bad’ gets her inspiration from the great female rebels of the world, such as the character of Mallory Knox in Natural Born Killers and the iconic actress and real-life radical Juliette Lewis, the power muse for the collection.

Patent leather is the main fabric and is used as a religious symbol to highlight the rebellious and unconformist connotations of the collection. The colour palette is mainly black and grey mixed with brighter shades such as lime green, which creates a serious but, at the same time, playful effect.

The key pieces were a patent leather dress with wool, a dirty plum merino dress made of silk and patent leather, a Kopenhagen fur shaved mink coat and oversized and elongated blazers.

The result is a striking collection which draws on the power of the female silhouette for a strong, confident and revolutionary woman who wants to express her rebelliousness and denunciate the conformist ways of the political system.

Louise Amstrup worked for Alexander McQueen before launching her own label in 2008. She won the On/Off Visionary Award in 2010.

Words Verónica Carpio Martín

 

ON|OFF: JAYNE PIERSON

‘KINGDOM OF SHADOWS’ WAS WELSH DESIGNER JAYNE PIERSON’S FOURTH SEASON AT LONDON FASHION WEEK, HAVING DEBUTED HER FIRST COLLECTION IN SEPTEMBER 2009. BLACK AND WHITE IMAGES PROJECTED ON THE LED DISPLAY AT THE FOOT OF THE ON/OFF CATWALK AS THE SHOW BEGAN AND A MODEL IN A BEAUTIFULLY TAILORED LEATHER JACKET STRODE INTO VIEW. LEATHER WAS A RECURRING THEME IN THIS COLLECTION;  MATTE AND PATENT, FROM DRESSES TO EVENING GLOVES.

Pierson cited her inspiration for the collection as 16th and 17th century anatomists, the frequently disturbing photography of Peter Joel Witkin, American artist Nan Goldin and the films of Kubrick and Cronenberg. As can be expected, this array of influences resulted in a seductive Victoriana look with more than a hint of the gothic and supernatural. Hair was piled high on the heads in a style not too dissimilar from Gary Oldman’s as Dracula in the 1992 film of the same name and pale skin was contrasted with black lips.

The majority of the collection was black on black. Interested was added through texture, including some incredible quilting detail leather items along with black velvet and flock print fabrics. The skin tight leather pencil skirt with fishtail detail was a stand out for me, along with the draping, metallic statement necklaces with offset the black perfectly. Although evidence of the historical influence was abundant, more modern details appeared in the towering black platform shows, statement jewellery  and the brooch adorned berets which were worn to one side of the head.

In the press release for the show, Pierson stated that she wanted to juxtapose restrained tailoring and freeform drape whilst flattering the female form. This was acheived in the mutton leg sleeves of high necked blouses tucked into rigid underbust corsets and in the dramatic, full length gathered skirts which exaggerated the hourglass shape and revealed some of the influences the designer has retained with her early work at Westwood and McQueen.

The collection was not without it’s flaws, however. An injection of colour came with the use of pale striped silk with, although skilfully draped, was unattractive and appeared cheap in contrast to the luxe leather pieces. At times Pierson strayed too far into the more sexual aspect of the look; skintight PVC and mesh crop tops with matching leggings looking tawdry rather than seductive but overall, the collection showed a real flair for drama and design.

Words Tamsin Worrad

 

BERNARD CHANDRAN

BERNARD CHANDRAN’S COLLECTION WAS AN ARRAY OF BEAUTIFUL COLOURS, WHICH CERTAINLY HELPED TO BRIGHTEN UP A TYPICAL, RAINY DAY IN LONDON. HIS COLOUR PALETTE RANGED FROM SUMPTUOUS PINKS, REDS AND ORANGES TO EXQUISITE JEWEL TONES OF JADE GREEN, PURPLE, PETROL BLUE AND BLACK.

The choice of soft satin helped to revitalise loosely tapered dresses, and comforting jersey fabrics created a contrast with more structured pieces. Beautiful feather accents added glamour. Waists were cinched in and patterns were kept to a minimum with just the simple addition of diamond stitching to some pieces. Removable organza and feather adornments were strapped to hips and satin covered buttons completed looks. Black velvet and leather helped to round off a complete collection of eveningwear and intricate beading combined with sheer fabric made the looks modestly sexy. The oversized shoulders and bright colour palette also had connotations of styles in the 80’s and was reminiscent of the power dressing era.

The feather detailing was replicated by the inclusion of chalky white flicks across each model’s eyelids. A few coloured streaks added to loose plaits mirrored Chandran’s vibrant colour palette and the combination of bright lips and pale skin created an eye grabbing contrast.

Words Zara Sparkes

 

 

 

 

 

ON|OFF: ASHLEY ISHAM

FASHION DESIGNER ASHLEY ISHAM PRESENTED A BREATHTAKING A/W 2011/12 COLLECTION AT MERCER STUDIOS IN COVENT GARDEN.

Ashley’s collection ‘The Enchanted Forest’ is inspired by a fairy tale where in the moon-struck madness of the winter solstice, fairy creatures emerge from their slumber.

His collection started with models in emerald and deep sapphire floral dresses adorned with a crown of flowers reminiscent of an Imperial Court from a bygone oriental dynasty.

The catwalk continued with Greek-style evening gowns with a palette of pink, turquoise blue and forest green for women who want to feel feminine and powerful with a mysterious and provocative touch.

The final part offered a more futuristic approach with metallic grey dresses embellished with scale-like sequins, black beaded and winter woollen lace appliqué, creating a slick and dramatic look.

The result is an edgy and provocative collection, which is a darker extension of Isham’s earlier S/S 2011 floral theme ‘East of Eden’.

Celebrities such as Hofit Golan, Kimberly Walsh (both wearing Isham’s pieces), Paloma Faith and Camilla Rutherford attended the show.

Words Veronica Carpio Martin  Images Dan Harley

ON|OFF: CHARLIE LE MINDU

A NEVER ENDING QUEUE FROM THE ENTRANCE TO MERCER STREET STUDIOS-ON/OFF’S SHOW SPACE FOR AUTUMN/WINTER 2011-ONTO SHELTER STREET SAW THAT CHARLIE LE MINDU’S SHOW WAS BUZZ WORTHY FROM BEFORE IT BEGAN. OVERSUBSCRIBED LIKE A GAZILLION SHOWS THIS SEASON, MANY OF THOSE IN WAITING SADLY NEVER MADE IT INDOORS.

The lucky ones who did however, played witness to a frightful collection of Mister Le Mindu’s quite fantastic creations. The first look that strode onto the catwalk saw a naked model doused in fake blood, the word ‘violence’ atop her head. Huge Mohicans and gas masks with pony tails followed, alongside red and black graffiti covered capes, trousers and waistcoats. Transparent plastic and lace were both key fabrics, while white and cream were seen throughout the collection. Pearls played the part of adornment, trimming and hat fastening while footwear came in the form of white leather lace ups for the guys and shaggy fur boots for the girls. The final look of the fourteen was a creation made from lace and hair, with a blood dyed train falling from a lace eagle sitting on the model’s blonde wig.

Cleverly using virginal fabrics alongside bare breasts, forms of vandalism and crucifix‘s-made of tape and seen across the genital area-Le Mindu’s Autumn/Winter collection was a whole load of confliction, set to a soundtrack of squealing pigs. The ‘music’ together with an over spilling room simply added to the drama of the clothes, creating a feeling of claustrophobia and panic; quite the spectacle for all present.

Words Zoe Whitfield

 

ON|OFF: BRYCE AIME

FRENCH BORN BRYCE AIME HAS CREATED A HUGE BUZZ AROUND HIS WORK SINCE HIS DEBUT SHOW AT LONDON FASHION WEEK FOR S/S 2009 AND HIS WINTER 2011 COLLECTION WAS NO DIFFERENT, WITH AN EAGER QUEUE STRETCHING DOWN THE STREET OUTSIDE THE ON/OFF VENUE IN COVENT GARDEN BY THE TIME I ARRIVED.  ENTITLED ‘MILITARIUM’, THE CENTRAL ST MARTIN GRADUATE TOOK HIS INSPIRATION FOR THE COLLECTION FROM ‘THE MILITARISTIC FEATURES OF AN ARMY BARRACKS’. IN AN EXCITABLE, RAVE LIKE ATMOSPHERE COMPLETE WITH LED BACKDROP AND SWEEPING LASERS THE MODELS MARCHED ONTO STAGE LIKE MEMBERS OF A FUTURISTIC ARMY.

The military influence was obvious in the angular lines, rigid structures and geometric panelling, topped with highly stylised headgear in the form of Perspex helmets. Built up shoulders gave an exaggerated silhouette and the shades were an authoritarian mix of black, grey and white. Hair and make-up matched; coal black smudges over unnaturally pale skin, dark lips, dramatic eyes (including black contact lenses) and white blonde hair cut into asymmetric shapes.

The heavily structured tailoring of the collection was taken to the extreme with a 3D geometrically shaped flexiglass suit covering the whole of the model like some futuristic piece of armoury. These protruding shapes were mimicked in the accessories collection – a first for Aime – including panelled clutches and slim backpacks designed in collaboration with Bracher Emden. It’s not difficult to imagine Lady GaGa in these pieces (she’s apparently already a fan) – Aime’s work has already appeared in a Rhianna video.

It wasn’t all avant-garde extremism, however. Amongst the more conceptual pieces were some more ready to wear items, including structured & panelled black dresses with short, flared skirts. Retaining the military feel, capelets covered the shoulders mimicking epaulettes on an army uniform. Futuristic digital prints covered pale leggings and blouses and black chiffon skirts draped to the floor, contrasting with the structured tailoring and softening what could have been an overly harsh or androgynous look.

Words Tamsin Worrad

 

VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT: LAKO BUKIA

LEATHER SEEMS TO BE AN ONGOING TREND IN 2011-2012 AUTUMN/ WINTER COLLECTIONS AND LAKO BUKIA WAS NO DIFFERENT. STARRY EYED MAKE UP AND SMOULDERING LIPS GAVE AN EDGE OF SEXY SOPHISTICATION TO SEE US THROUGH THE WINTER MONTHS.

Every one of her collections has been highly anticipated and it is strikingly obvious why. Her beautiful use of chiffon drooping in between bullet cases strapped around the models bustier and used as military style belts, made the fierce models look like lady-killers on a mission.

And Bukia has not shied away from using a number of different tan leathers. Blacks, browns and maroons were seamlessly matched with fine soft hue shirts in pink and natural tones. Straps of leather cover the models dignity in a way that is elegant. Wear a chic shirt underneath and you have the makings of an unusual and urbane outfit.

She is a designer who is a lover of clean lines and perfect symmetry. Her tight maroon leather shorts and tailored shirts showcased powerful femininity that has been at the forefront of London Fashion Week.

Pretty angelic dresses with fish scale necklines were the epitome of the collection. With the slick plum lips and complicated plated hair, the overall look and styling of the show was eye catching. Every new look that came down the catwalk took my breath away. I wanted every piece on offer.

Lako Bukia AW11 full show from VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Words Jennifer Butler

 

 

VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT: ZIAD GHANEM

TO ME LONDON FASHION WEEK IS ALL ABOUT SHOWING OFF AND BRINGING NEW IDEAS TO THE TABLE, EVEN IF THEY ARE NOT INSTANTLY WEARABLE. ZIAD GHANEM WAS A DESIGNER THAT I HAD TO SEE, AND WITH BOY GEORGE IN THE AUDIENCE YOU KNEW IT WAS GOING TO BE A STIMULATING SHOW.

Why the Freemasons Hall was used instead of the BFC Catwalk Show Space I cannot be sure. More space would of allowed this eccentric designer to show off even more of his pierced, tattooed and plus sized models.

Everyone in the audience was in good spirits even though it started an hour late, making it roughly 9pm by the time it began. It was intimate and friendly as people were getting ready for the last night of after show parties.

The show started with a winged gothic angel, with a black mouth like the joker from batman. Her large emerald green feathered fans swooped as she sashayed down the catwalk at 7ft tall on a wheeled contraption. The crowd applauded at not only quite an entrance, but the beauty of the black couture gown on display.

White make up with red stained tears and black smiles fitted with the Personal Jesus soundtrack and married couple who wouldn’t look out of place in a Tim Burton film. Full bosomed women and cross dressing men set foot on the catwalk.

A beautiful floor length black and brown dress with a white eagle printed on the front was the most wearable piece of the show. But this show wasn’t always about being practical.

Pretty veiled dresses in light greys, whites and lilacs with veils slipped over the models faces would be perfect for the more elaborate wedding. Every inch was luxury and excess. Embroidered bodices and Asian printed capes, large feathered headwear and lace gowns filled the small venue. Every piece was assembled and fitted perfectly on a number of shapely models. It was enough to make the mouth water in excitement for the collection.

Ziad Ghanem AW11 edit from VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Words Jennifer Butler  Images Christopher Day

 

VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT: JACOB KIMMIE

HELD IN THE STUNNING VESTIBULE AT THE FREEMASON’S HALL, THE MOMENT YOU WALKED THROUGH THE DOORS YOU WERE WELCOMED TO A COUPLE OF SCANTILY CLAD MEN ON WHITE PILLARS. WEARING NOTHING BUT A THIN LINEN CLOTH, THE BRIGHT LIGHTS LEFT NOTHING TO THE IMAGINATION. THANK GOODNESS THEN THAT AFTERWARDS YOU COULD GO AND TAKE PICTURES OF THESE MEN, THAT MY EVER A WALLFLOWER FRIEND KINDLY TOLD ME WERE CALLED SEBASTIAN AND BACH. ONCE THE AUDIENCE HAD FINISHED STARING AT THESE OILED UP ADONIS’S, WHICH SEEMED LIKE A LIFE TIME AS THE MODELS GOT READY, THE SHOW BEGAN.

One of the more unusual but refreshing catwalks I have been to, ‘Martyr’ used a plethora of multi-ethnic models and hijab covered faces. Frayed denim dresses and white splashed printed black dresses gave the show an edgy look. White toga inspired ethereal lace dresses swept along the room, winding in and out if the statuesque male plinths.

Thin printed yellow and beige see though printed tops matched with sequin detailed skirts and frayed strips of leather showed off a powerful and romantic look that Jacob Kimmie is famous for.

Red paint was sprayed over a few models and black cords of leather covered the faces of others. His work is driven by injustice and anger and this was very apparent in his collection.  The Masonic artwork in the hall and heavy art deco doors that divided the two separate audience seating spaces made you feel trapped and claustrophobic, just like the collection itself.

Jacob Kimmie AW11 full show from VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Words and images Jennifer Butler

ON|OFF: BELLE SAUVAGE

THE OLD SORTING OFFICE HELD HOST TO BELLE SAUVAGE ON A VERY WET SATURDAY AFTERNOON. THIS GRITTY VENUE IS A FAVOURITE WITH YOUNG CELEBRITIES WITH DIANA VICKERS AND BAT FOR LASHES LEAD SINGER NATASHA KHAN. IN THE RAIN IT LOOKED NOTHING MORE THAN A BLACKED OUT TOWER BLOCK, BUT INSIDE THE LIGHTING WAS DIM AND THE ATMOSPHERE WAS CHILLY. BELLE SAUVAGE’S LEATHER CLAD AUTUMN/ WINTER 2011-2012 READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTION.  THE MODELS WERE GHOSTLY WHITE, WITH GOTHIC INSPIRED SPIKY HEAD DRESSES THAT COVERED THEIR FEATURES.

With an upbeat track and sparse pillars and corridors in the background, one could be mistaken for thinking they had entered a nightmarish warehouse rave. The clothes were fresh and beautiful, bold asymmetrical prints and figure hugging silhouettes. The first model to grace the catwalk did so with a large circular head piece. With the light shining past her, you couldn’t help but feel an air of excitement to see the rest of the smouldering collection. Not only a collection for the ladies of any shape, but also one that would please the men.

The dress that got the collective nod of many in the audience was an ankle length purple printed skin tight dress. The print faded out as it went past the waistline, which would help draw attention away from the stomach and hips, a very clever effect to have on a dress and one that the entranced audience all smiled at.

There was also a scorching cut out leather mini dress which every woman needs to have in their wardrobe in some form.

Detailed wedges finished off the outfits with a sprinkling of feathers, rock chick spikes and gold chains.

Words and images Jennifer Butler

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