SOHO CHIC AT KETTNER’S
THERE AREN’T MANY RESTAURANTS IN LONDON THAT HAVE AS MUCH HISTORY AND CLAIM TO FAME AS KETTNER’S OF SOHO. ONCE POPULAR WITH EDWARD VII, OSCAR WILDE AND AGATHA CHRISTIE, THE 19THC RESTAURANT IS NOW BACK IN FULL FORCE AFTER A SUMPTUOUS REVAMP.
Originally opened in 1867 by Auguste Kettner, chef to Napoleon III, the restaurant fast became a favoured hangout for a number of important figures. Close to the stage doors of Soho, it was a popular and somewhat exclusive place to dine. So it’s no wonder that the recent refurbishment was aimed at sprucing Kettner’s back to its original self, celebrating the classic decor of its heyday.
Everything is elaborate and exudes a vintage chic, alluding to its rich and colourful past. The interior is light, luxurious and sparkles with chandeliers, candles and traditional lights which all contribute to a shabby-elegant style. Oversized, Parisian white-framed mirrors are hung decadently on the walls, and diners can huddle around traditional French-design tables and chairs. Through the centre of the main dining room, a slab of marble on ornate iron legs sweeps right through the centre, with comfy looking stools for visitors to perch on, and a smattering of domed, art-deco lamps illuminate the warmly lit space.
It’s warm and inviting, and it’s clear that every customer feels this. Think relaxed Parisian café, combined with gracious elegance of a well-designed and upmarket restaurant. And the downstairs restaurant isn’t all that’s on offer either. There are an endless maze of rooms of different sizes and purposes, to cater for all who passes through Kettner’s doors.
The pudding bar, for example, is French and is open for tea, a light lunch, an informal rendezvous or a late night treat and is always bursting at the seams with home-made cakes, tarts and other seductively naughty treats.
When I visited on a week night, the welcoming glow of Kettner’s entrance hall was quite delicious, and the hubbub of friendly chatter set the scene for a performance-themed evening.
Following a relaxed drink in the cosy champagne bar – which has one of the most extensive champagne lists I’ve ever seem, as well as a shiny brass bar and bookable nooks – we were politely ushered to our table in the main brassiere. I sat in the corner of the room in a high-backed wicker chair, complete with a peculiar but quirky ape-like character, which hung over me. I later found out this was Auguste the Big Handed Ape, Kettner’s mascot, of course! I should have known. As I faced out towards the restaurant, I wondered what more surprises were in store.
Known for its vibrant history of extravagant parties and soirees, the reformed Kettner’s successfully lived up to its bold reputation. Themed evenings, such as ‘Sing for your Supper’ themed evening that took place during our visit, makes the restaurant come alive with the colourful theatrical characters of London’s Theatre District and is reminiscent of a 1940s glamour and drama.
Although regular diners were welcomed to sample the restaurant’s culinary delights, artists of all sorts were invited to take a seat, eat, and then sing, dance, recite or simply mesmerise others with their chosen short performance.
Gathered around the middle marble bar, a group of young men and women, all dressed in period costume – complete with wigs, white make-up and red lips – began to flounce around, dancing a little, chatting a little, and engaging those who weren’t shy in conversation.
Then two ladies in 1940s’ clothing stood up from their table and began reading old diary excerpts. In the piano bar, the entertainment was a lot more musically themed, with a constant flow of performers taking centre stage to rapturous applause. It was quite a fascinating site to behold.
The food at Kettner’s is simple, fresh French cuisine – you’ll find favourites on there such as mussels, crisp duck confit and beef bourguignon. It’s all very good value with main courses starting at just over £10. But if it’s Paris you’re after, then don’t expect any less entertainment than Moulin Rouge. The delicious food thrown in with good measure, you’ll find it hard to go wrong in here.
Words Emma Zücker
DINE IN STYLE THAT’S ‘ULTRA’ COOL
In the heart of Queen and Soho, lays concealed Toronto’s trendiest and darkest secrets. Behind its lipstick-red wooden doors, Ultra’s lavish interior incites passers by tempted in by its affluent design and sumptuous flavours.
Described on its website as an ‘informal playground for dining, cocktails and good times with friends’ the newly renovated spaces on trendy Queen St West re-invents the art of hob-nobbing. Re-designed, Ultra has become an after-work haven for those seeking a style, yet un-stuffy and social atmosphere in which to have a few drinks. Or for those who would prefer a sit-down experience, a chef with a penchant for fusing Japanese and Latin flavours will satisfy your craving for food.
We were seated in a maroon crocodile skin booth, under black patent leather ceiling slats, beside a sea of mirrors. The ornate and lavish décor obviously designed for its new ‘after-work’ clientele. Dividing the dining area from the trendy lounge stands a sheer black curtain printed with giant close-up shots of almost vicious looking red and white roosters. The roosters are a running theme for Ultra – the strutting cocks tying the dark and shiny decor, dance beats and extensive drink list to its unashamed and deliberate brazen, showy vibe.
Ultra’s food ambitiously combines Eastern flavours with Western influences. Chef Zielinkski was trained by Toronto/New York samurai, Susur Lee meaning the Asian influence is definitely strong and in most cases, very successful.
Nevertheless, adding to this social culinary arena, guests are invited to design their own feasts to share. However, leaving creativity in the hands of naïve customers can come with a few misses. And this was certainly the case with our Kobe Short-Rib Spring Roll. This strange combination of deep-frying Kobe beef in pastry certainly reminded us that certain foods should be left in their own original state, and not treated this way. The Tuna Tartarlets and Warm Shimiji Mushroom Salad were both excellent, and the Red Snapper Chips were tasty, if relying a little heavily on the deep fryer. The main courses of Miso Cod and Star Anise Scented Duck Breast were both decent, with the cod the tastier of the two. We sampled nearly all of the dessert offerings, including Mango Gyoza, Vanilla Custard, Lychee Tapioca, Mexican donuts called Churros, and Assorted Truffles. Lucky for us the prices were reasonable with dishes from $8 to $20 (£4 to £10 approximately).
At around 9:30pm, the lounge started to pick up speed as the DJ began turning the beats up several notches. On the opposite side of the poultry curtain, stands Ultra’s interesting and no doubt, exceptionally unique, centrepiece: a long solid oak table with 24 red lacquered chairs. Whilst drinks flowed freely around the aesthetically pleasing prop – which doubles as a catwalk runway – the whole affair seems rather communal for such a disclosed and purposefully pretentious bar. The juxtaposition of community in this cockerel-testosterone fest seemed somewhat unlikely. Again, although the summer rooftop patio and courtyard behind its oversized ornate red doors sits nicely secluded away from bustling Queen St., this element of spring-time sociability is rather strange against its dark, intense interior.
Maybe the cocks were a discreet sense of irony or maybe the theme simply does not work.
A variant array, and a unique Toronto restaurant, Ultra struggles to amalgamate innovative and quality cuisine with an opulent capricious bar, failing short of pleasing both expectant diners and thirty-something singles looking for a few drinks and someone to go home with for a few more.
Words: Jory Groberman
